moondoggy4
Team RC
I used Killz and some high gloss paint on the inside.
DIY Stands Template and Calculator
- Thread starter JohnL
- Start date
Ok I've posted this in my build thread as well but wanted to get a little more pointed response on the stand. What do you think is it strong enough?
The upper side rails and rear span are 2x8's with 2x4's in the corners (standard way) and the screw strips in the rear are 2x8 while the front ones are 2x6. The extra rear supports are 2x6 and those as well as the rear top beam are screwed to the wall studs. The front is a little more complicated the screw strips double as supports for 2 additional 2x4's behind a 2x6 the 3 boards are needed as the front of the tank does not sit at the front of the stand. There are 2 2x4's in a T formation in the middle supporting the front 3 beams. Only other think I can think to add is that the sides are skinned with 3/4 and the back has a sheet on 1/8 just to keep the drywall covered.
TIA
The upper side rails and rear span are 2x8's with 2x4's in the corners (standard way) and the screw strips in the rear are 2x8 while the front ones are 2x6. The extra rear supports are 2x6 and those as well as the rear top beam are screwed to the wall studs. The front is a little more complicated the screw strips double as supports for 2 additional 2x4's behind a 2x6 the 3 boards are needed as the front of the tank does not sit at the front of the stand. There are 2 2x4's in a T formation in the middle supporting the front 3 beams. Only other think I can think to add is that the sides are skinned with 3/4 and the back has a sheet on 1/8 just to keep the drywall covered.
TIA
TheFishMan65
New member
mlb, I am not expert but it will hold a 10 gallong tank no problem 
. Sorry what size tank - I think you are fine. What is the over all size of the stand. If it only 6 feet long then you should be fine OMHO. The only issue (maybe) is that the screw strips look like they touch the floor. The idea as I understand it is to have the weight distrubted on the bottom 2x4s.
Looking at the pix again I think you are fine except for maybe the screw strips.
. Sorry what size tank - I think you are fine. What is the over all size of the stand. If it only 6 feet long then you should be fine OMHO. The only issue (maybe) is that the screw strips look like they touch the floor. The idea as I understand it is to have the weight distrubted on the bottom 2x4s.Looking at the pix again I think you are fine except for maybe the screw strips.
Man I guess I forgot to add the most important detail, it's for a 300G deep dimension. The screw strips do touch the floor but since they are flush with the top and bottom I can't see how that would be an issue only extra support for the top. The front screw strips also serve the secondary function of being the end support for the 2 2x4's that help to make up the front support.
Here's another pic with the tank footprint in tape.
I've already quadruple checked that the tank sits directly on the support ring as it's supposed to.
Thanks
Here's another pic with the tank footprint in tape.
I've already quadruple checked that the tank sits directly on the support ring as it's supposed to.
Thanks
TheFishMan65
New member
I maybe making up trouble, but at least it will make you think. If it is truly flush then you probably OK. But the first time you have a flood (I know it will never happen to you like it neve happened to me ) the end grain will soak the water right up. I am redoing my stand and that is one of the reasons why, and yes I tried to seal it but I can see a discoloration I think form water. Will it exapand, warp or other wise hurt anything??? Also it look like it is sitting on concrete (maybe no the final location), but as I understand concrete it some how can alow water aborbtion through the concrete. So once again there maybe an expansion problem.
Are these real problems? I don't know and I hope someone more knowledgable will chime in. These are thing I considered when designing my stand, but I have a real good imagination.
Oops, almost forgot. As I understand this thread it will hold the tank with the possible issue mentioned above.
) the end grain will soak the water right up. I am redoing my stand and that is one of the reasons why, and yes I tried to seal it but I can see a discoloration I think form water. Will it exapand, warp or other wise hurt anything??? Also it look like it is sitting on concrete (maybe no the final location), but as I understand concrete it some how can alow water aborbtion through the concrete. So once again there maybe an expansion problem.Are these real problems? I don't know and I hope someone more knowledgable will chime in. These are thing I considered when designing my stand, but I have a real good imagination
.Oops, almost forgot. As I understand this thread it will hold the tank with the possible issue mentioned above.
jesserettele
New member
I am sure there are a lot of opinions about this, so I would like to hear them.
9 each non-swivel casters rated at 330 lbs. each
9 each non-swivel casters rated at 330 lbs. each
First thing I see is someone dropped their amex card
As for the stand the front and back supports don't appear to be supported by anything other than screws which is a no no and finally the center casters are on what appear to be cross braces that also are only mounted to the corners by screws. Not sure what size tank this is for or why you'd want it on casters but I wouldn't trust it.
As for the stand the front and back supports don't appear to be supported by anything other than screws which is a no no and finally the center casters are on what appear to be cross braces that also are only mounted to the corners by screws. Not sure what size tank this is for or why you'd want it on casters but I wouldn't trust it.
TheFishMan65
New member
jesserettele I will tell you the same thing I told mlb it will hold 10 gallongs . How many total gallons do you ant to put on that? It looks solid, but you may get dimples in your floor boards. How level /even is the floor? Will all nine always me in contact? I wonder if you would have been better with 2 in each corner or 3 sets of three. The stand sure looks solid. I just worry about it twisting as it is moved.
I would consider adding some plywood on the bottom. Everything looks like right angles so if you push crooked t will turn into a parallelogram. If you add some diagonals I would feel a lot better.
I would also consider moving the middle castor under the support for the tank. It looks like the front edge is just floating.
Anyway that my $0.02
. How many total gallons do you ant to put on that? It looks solid, but you may get dimples in your floor boards. How level /even is the floor? Will all nine always me in contact? I wonder if you would have been better with 2 in each corner or 3 sets of three. The stand sure looks solid. I just worry about it twisting as it is moved.I would consider adding some plywood on the bottom. Everything looks like right angles so if you push crooked t will turn into a parallelogram. If you add some diagonals I would feel a lot better.
I would also consider moving the middle castor under the support for the tank. It looks like the front edge is just floating.
Anyway that my $0.02
I used Tite-Bond waterproof wood glue along with srews for the 2x frame. Doesn't hurt if you don't. If you do it just adds more strength to the assembly.
jesserettele
New member
First thing I see is someone dropped their amex card
As for the stand the front and back supports don't appear to be supported by anything other than screws which is a no no and finally the center casters are on what appear to be cross braces that also are only mounted to the corners by screws. Not sure what size tank this is for or why you'd want it on casters but I wouldn't trust it.
The Amex is my 4 year olds play card:lmao:
I see the problem as you pointed out with the supports not having a pier under them. The problem is that the sump/fuge is the same exact dimensions as the display so I had to go outside its base to build the stand. Would a 3/4" ply wood top and bottom strengthen it up enough? I wanted the casters to be able to get it away from the wall because I will be plumbing in ATO and water changes. I could do it without being able to move the stand but if it is possible and strong enough I wanted to keep the casters.
jesserettele I will tell you the same thing I told mlb it will hold 10 gallongs
I would consider adding some plywood on the bottom. Everything looks like right angles so if you push crooked t will turn into a parallelogram. If you add some diagonals I would feel a lot better.
I would also consider moving the middle castor under the support for the tank. It looks like the front edge is just floating.
Anyway that my $0.02
It is for a 75 display and 75 sump/fuge. The stand is on a concrete floor house foundation. Thanks for tip about ply wood. I think I will use that. I may also just remove all the casters.
cec09
New member
i just wanted some opinions on how this stand looks. will it hold the tank is the most importand? tank will be a 24x24x18 cube. 45 gallons. this is only the frame but im working slowly as i dont have the tank yet. have to sell my 90 gallon first.
frame is all 2x3. top and bottom frames are pocket screwed to the virtical supports. i have a 29 gal sump and ato in the stand. all three sides will have doors so everything is accesable and removeable
this is a front shot
right side. that cubbie is going to be where all the electrical will be. (vortech, 2 pc4s and sl2 -eventually)
this is the left side. the small 5 gallon is for ato but will be replaced by something same size just taller.
this is top down
let me know what you think.
thanks
john
frame is all 2x3. top and bottom frames are pocket screwed to the virtical supports. i have a 29 gal sump and ato in the stand. all three sides will have doors so everything is accesable and removeable
this is a front shot
right side. that cubbie is going to be where all the electrical will be. (vortech, 2 pc4s and sl2 -eventually)
this is the left side. the small 5 gallon is for ato but will be replaced by something same size just taller.
this is top down
let me know what you think.
thanks
john
TheFishMan65
New member
jesserettele, I don't think plywood would help with the pylon issue that mlb caught. Sorry I'm not a structural engineer to say how bad this might be.
cec09, Do you have a pic of the bottom? I am just wondering if all the edges of the 29 and 5 are supported down to the floor. Other than that I don't see anything.
cec09, Do you have a pic of the bottom? I am just wondering if all the edges of the 29 and 5 are supported down to the floor. Other than that I don't see anything.
RocketEngineer
Space is big.
mlb75,
As long as you have good transfer from the top frame to the floor, 2X4 with a center brace is plenty for a 300g.
jesserettele,
If you design things right, there should be no need to move the tank once its placed. The best gap is wide enough for an extension cord plug to get between the stand and the wall. Otherwise, you risk more then you gain.
cec09,
Looks plenty strong enough but I'm worried about twisting. Depending on how you make the doors will determine if you can add stiffness or not. Just something to consider.
RocketEngineer
As long as you have good transfer from the top frame to the floor, 2X4 with a center brace is plenty for a 300g.
jesserettele,
If you design things right, there should be no need to move the tank once its placed. The best gap is wide enough for an extension cord plug to get between the stand and the wall. Otherwise, you risk more then you gain.
cec09,
Looks plenty strong enough but I'm worried about twisting. Depending on how you make the doors will determine if you can add stiffness or not. Just something to consider.
RocketEngineer
cec09
New member
thefishman65- yes all sides of both tanks are supported by 1x3s on the bottom
rocketengineer- my plan was to skin the front and right side with 1x4 or 1x6 pine and then add doors. on the left i was going to use a piece of 3/4 ply trimmed to look like the other sides but attach with magnets so the entire panel is removeable so that i can take out either tank for cleaning or such. so i guess the question is what should i do to keep it from twisting because the doors or the "skin" will not be much structurally.
thanks
john
rocketengineer- my plan was to skin the front and right side with 1x4 or 1x6 pine and then add doors. on the left i was going to use a piece of 3/4 ply trimmed to look like the other sides but attach with magnets so the entire panel is removeable so that i can take out either tank for cleaning or such. so i guess the question is what should i do to keep it from twisting because the doors or the "skin" will not be much structurally.
thanks
john
jesserettele
New member
Before I start redesigning and using the stand calculater, any idea on how I can get a true pylon/column support under the 75 gallon display with the same exact dimension sump/fuge directy below it?
I agree, I will have 1" plumbing exiting/entering the wall right behind the stand into the garage for draining, water changing, and ATO, but wasn't budgeting that until later is why I wanted the stand mobile. Looks like the casters are coming off and I'm not getting it wet for another few months until I can afford storrage tanks and and RO/DI.
TheFishMan65
New member
Go back to post 85 of the first half (before the split) of this thread and there is some information there. That will show you how to stack your tanks.
History Lesson since you seem new. Sometime last year RC upgraded. Before that after 40 pages a thread was automatically split. Another 40 pages another split. So to find the first post gout have to keep going to page one post one and click the split and repeat until you find the first split. I think this only split once so it is easy.
Here is a pic of post 85 it may be all you need:
Can you just use capped line until you get the garage end figured out. Even if they are capped in the garage it may get you started.
History Lesson since you seem new. Sometime last year RC upgraded. Before that after 40 pages a thread was automatically split. Another 40 pages another split. So to find the first post gout have to keep going to page one post one and click the split and repeat until you find the first split. I think this only split once so it is easy.
Here is a pic of post 85 it may be all you need:
Can you just use capped line until you get the garage end figured out. Even if they are capped in the garage it may get you started.
jesserettele
New member
Go back to post 85 of the first half (before the split) of this thread and there is some information there. That will show you how to stack your tanks.
History Lesson since you seem new. Sometime last year RC upgraded. Before that after 40 pages a thread was automatically split. Another 40 pages another split. So to find the first post gout have to keep going to page one post one and click the split and repeat until you find the first split. I think this only split once so it is easy.
Here is a pic of post 85 it may be all you need:
Can you just use capped line until you get the garage end figured out. Even if they are capped in the garage it may get you started.
fishmn, join date to RC was Jan 2010, yes new here, and split threads require no history lesson as this is common on any forum. :thumbsup:
The diagram shows the (lower) tank compartment would not have side supports, only front and back actually under the tank.
Thanks for your opinions, I'll start from the beginning as I should have done for a possible solution.
jesserettele
New member
Without rebuilding I came up with this. The front and back top (display) supports are braced underneath on the sides with beams running front to back. I placed pylons/columns under the side supports in the front and back corners (unpainted) straddling the sump/fuge. This forced me to slide my sump/fuge forward 1 1/2" and add additional floor supports. Casters are gone too.
