DIY Stands Template and Calculator

[snowball2020]

another question:

what does everyone use to seal the inside of the stand? I've read that Kiltz is the most popular choice. but there are 3 different types. oil base, water base, latex... what's everyone using?
do I need to seal it with polyeurathane still? or 2 coat of kiltz be enough?

 

[spllbnd2]

On closer inspection, I only have 1 gap left after screwing the vertical purple pieces to the top 2x6 frame using 3 pocket hole screws. should I wedge it with Popsicle sticks? I don't think it's even big enough for it to fit in...

the gap isn't 1/16, more like 1/32... here is a pic:

here is the other gap that i'm not too concern about since it's sitting on one of the legs. but I'd like yall's opinion on this as well...

right side:

left side:

Is your stand squared up? From the photos it looks as though it is not square. Photos can be deceiving at times though.

 

[C-Rad]

Those gaps look very small. I think it will settle and compress the gaps. If not, it means the screws are holding the weight. Either way, the stand will hold the weight fine, with no chance of collapse.

From the pictures it looks like the four horizontal pieces that make up the top aren't quite all the same height. How much of a problem is that? Will it stress the tank glass or tank seams, or will it all even out when the tank and stand "settle"?

 

[spllbnd2]

another question:

what does everyone use to seal the inside of the stand? I've read that Kiltz is the most popular choice. but there are 3 different types. oil base, water base, latex... what's everyone using?
do I need to seal it with polyeurathane still? or 2 coat of kiltz be enough?

I used a three step process for finishing the inside of my stand. I used all oil based and thinned using a mixture of mineral spirits and Floetrol. Am I over doing it? Probably, but hey at least it is...

* Easy to wipe clean and keep polished.
* Easy to keep brightly lit so I can see what I am doing inside the stand.
* Should last at least 5-10 years without any signs of aging.
* Will endure all salt spray and any water splashing that occurs.

First I seal the wood with a 3 coats of a protective sealer (Daly's Profin, similar to a poly but not as thick). I wet sand in between coats.

Second I prime the wood with a marine boat paint primer. Again, 3 coats and wet sand in between coats. I used mineral spirits to thin the primer.

Third I start painting with a marine boat paint. Oil based and thinned using a mixture of mineral spirits and floetrol. I put approximately 7-8 coats of paint, wet sanding in between each coat. Final coat is allowed to cure for 2 weeks before color sanding, polishing, sealing and waxing the finish to a nice shine.

The first 2 photos are before the color sanding and polishing out the finish. The 3rd photo is after polishing, waxing, sealing etc. Best photo I could get tonight with the point and shoot without the sun. And yes it is baby buttom smooth. :fun2:

Currently working on color sanding, polishing and the such.

 

[spllbnd2]

You can always put a 1/2 sheet of plywood on the top of the stand to help keep things level and also helps reinforce the stand at the same time.

 

[snowball2020]

You can always put a 1/2 sheet of plywood on the top of the stand to help keep things level and also helps reinforce the stand at the same time.

I was thinking of that as well but I wanted to try to plane the top side of 2x6 so that the tank will be flushed.

to reconfirm, I have a tank with plastic rim around it and all the weights are sitting at the 4 corners so it's ok if my 2x6 is not exactly "flat" right?

and most of my legs are square with the exception of one or two that's about 1mm-2mm gap off of the vertical. I'll take pics to let you guys be the judge.

 

[TheFishMan65]

snowball, from what I understand from Central Aquatic since the tank is only 48 inches the corners only need to be supported. If the 2x6 bows down that should be ok. Bowing up would be the problem.

Note I still found the straightest 2x4 I could, but did not worry about the imperfection in the wood which were probably less than 1/32 of an inch. It has been up about a month.

 

[snowball2020]

MOD: I think it's time to split this thread again since it's taking forever to load/post! Doesn't help that I'm posting all these pics

Here are the "biggest" gap on the verticals. I'm using an 8" square, maybe I should buy a 20" or would it matter?

Back-left = back of the stand, on the left side

back-right

right-right

front-right

all have less than 1mm gap

 

[TheFishMan65]

Splitting was automatic after the upgrade I don't think it splits anymore. The LED thread is getting up near 200 pages.

 

[spllbnd2]

MOD: I think it's time to split this thread again since it's taking forever to load/post! Doesn't help that I'm posting all these pics

Here are the "biggest" gap on the verticals. I'm using an 8" square, maybe I should buy a 20" or would it matter?

all have less than 1mm gap

I don't think it would really matter what size square you use. If the stand is not squared up, it will still not be squared. I wouldn't work so much about that considering the span is only 48" on your tank. The only way I could see you getting the stand squared up is to take the uprights out and use the square while assembling the uprights.

 

[snowball2020]

I don't think it would really matter what size square you use. If the stand is not squared up, it will still not be squared. I wouldn't work so much about that considering the span is only 48" on your tank. The only way I could see you getting the stand squared up is to take the uprights out and use the square while assembling the uprights.

I did use the square during the installation of the verticals. I don't think it's going to be 100% perfect no matter WHAT you do... I am not a carpenter, but this is not my first wood project.

anyway, do you guys think it'll be ok? the wood will settle and everything will hold?

my next task is to make sure the tank sit flush on top w/o any big gaps. I'll focus on the corners of the tank and will try to sand it down to a plane.

any other suggestions appreciated. thanks! :fish1:

 

[spllbnd2]

I did use the square during the installation of the verticals. I don't think it's going to be 100% perfect no matter WHAT you do... I am not a carpenter, but this is not my first wood project.

anyway, do you guys think it'll be ok? the wood will settle and everything will hold?

my next task is to make sure the tank sit flush on top w/o any big gaps. I'll focus on the corners of the tank and will try to sand it down to a plane.

any other suggestions appreciated. thanks! :fish1:

In my opinion it will probably be fine. I've had one stand built with RocketEngineers design and the uprights where not exactly squared and everything was okay with that one. In fact it is still holding up.

 

[1mbrews8]

mine so far..:
bottom so far:

canopy so far:

 

[snowball2020]

ok, next problem.

the top of my tank is not plane (of course) I was able to fit 6 pieces of printer paper in the front left corner. 5 pieces on the front right corner and 3 on the right back corner.

that equates to about 1.5mm for the biggest gap. My tank is All Glass Aquarium and it is tempered glass. Do you guys think this is OK or should I add a piece of plywood on it?

if I do add a piece of 1/2" plywood, since my tank is 48.5 wide, do I really need to go for that extra .5" since plywood is sold only in 2'x4' I don't want to go for 4x8 if I don't have to... it's not cheap for that big and thick of plywood.

 

[TheFishMan65]

That means it is resting in the center. I would sand the center 40 inches or so.

 

[vyerous]

I plan on building a 36" L x 24" W x 45" T stand, the tank is 36x24x18 (about 65 gallons), will be loaded with sand and rocks. I am going to use the template on the first page for a simple 4 leg stand, should I worry about support in the middle of the long sides or is 36 inches short enough to not have to worry about needing extra support?

I apologize if a similar question like this has been answered, I've been skimming and may have overlooked it.

Thanks!

 

[spllbnd2]

I plan on building a 36" L x 24" W x 45" T stand, the tank is 36x24x18 (about 65 gallons), will be loaded with sand and rocks. I am going to use the template on the first page for a simple 4 leg stand, should I worry about support in the middle of the long sides or is 36 inches short enough to not have to worry about needing extra support?

I apologize if a similar question like this has been answered, I've been skimming and may have overlooked it.

Thanks!

If you check out my photos that I posted earlier, that is a stand made for a 65H All Glass Aquariums tank. No center bracing on the stand at all and it holds 1000 pounds just fine. The dimensions on the stand are 36 wide x 18.5 deep x 35 tall.

 

[mikev15101]

As a result of this thread we decided to build a stand for our 125 gallon. It is not complete but wanted to post what we have done already. The work was mostly done by a fellow reefer who owns a wood working shop. We went with 2x6 for the top frame and 2x6 for the legs for added peace of mind.

We had the choice of the first pic or the second pic but we went with the second pic.

 

[BobNY]

I have always wanted to build a DIY stand, but never had the confidence in myself to design one I know would be up to the task. A few weeks ago I found this thread and the information and inspiration found here was exactly what I needed. I finally started building a stand.
Here are some pictures of what I have accomplished so far. I clearly have more work to do, but it's starting to look like a stand. I will post another picture after it's completed (hopefully soon).

 

[importspeedman]

I am currently building a stand for a 140 gallon acrylic aquarium (72"x15"X30"). I was wondering if i will need a center brace if I use a 2x6 or 2x8? I have read quite a bit of this thread and have not found anything out about if an acrylic tank will effect the top rail of the frame.
Rich