TheFishMan65
New member
Between marks is usually good - depends on the level. How far off level is it over 1 foot?
DIY Stands Template and Calculator
- Thread starter JohnL
- Start date
TheFishMan65
New member
I would say you are fine.
kass03
New member
Heres mine almost done. We just have to put the laminate sides on it yet.
My hubby and I never built anything before this.
He built it and I sanded and stained it. I did the boards individually so it would be easier.
I used general finishes georgian cherry stain and gf arm r seal topcoat.
We used maple boards for the front and maple plywood for the sides. I was lucky and got the doors at a restore for 50 cents each. I sanded them down and restained them.
Thanks to this thread we have a nice looking stand.
kass
My hubby and I never built anything before this.
He built it and I sanded and stained it. I did the boards individually so it would be easier.
I used general finishes georgian cherry stain and gf arm r seal topcoat.
We used maple boards for the front and maple plywood for the sides. I was lucky and got the doors at a restore for 50 cents each. I sanded them down and restained them.
Thanks to this thread we have a nice looking stand.
kass
kass03
New member
Thanks, I'm surprised myself how good it turned out.
No, I'm just using it for storage. I'm not having a sump. I get asked why all the time lol.
I'm replacing my 29 year old 55g reef with a 75g. I have a mini reef h.o.b. filter that was made for a reef already on there and it's like a h.o.b. sump. It's big and not like those cheapy freshwater ones. I paid $400 for it used 29 years ago and it serves my purpose.
It has an overflow and the siphen doesnt break when the power goes out. It has 2 hagen 802 pumps that run it.
I'm also getting an octopus h.o.b. cone skimmer with a bb pump for it to replace my remora so I'm good.
I have a sump on my 150 so know what's it's like. If I did'nt have my h.o.b. filter I would have drilled it and used a sump definately.
I also wanted to use countertop cuz I get my wood wet on my other stands all the time.
kass
No, I'm just using it for storage. I'm not having a sump. I get asked why all the time lol.
I'm replacing my 29 year old 55g reef with a 75g. I have a mini reef h.o.b. filter that was made for a reef already on there and it's like a h.o.b. sump. It's big and not like those cheapy freshwater ones. I paid $400 for it used 29 years ago and it serves my purpose.
It has an overflow and the siphen doesnt break when the power goes out. It has 2 hagen 802 pumps that run it.
I'm also getting an octopus h.o.b. cone skimmer with a bb pump for it to replace my remora so I'm good.
I have a sump on my 150 so know what's it's like. If I did'nt have my h.o.b. filter I would have drilled it and used a sump definately.
I also wanted to use countertop cuz I get my wood wet on my other stands all the time.
kass
RocketEngineer
Space is big.
As per the first page, the top frame should be 2X8 and the rest 2X4. You don't need a center support.
RocketEngineer
jt48
Member
I would like to share something very important that I recently learned that was a complete surprise to me as I thought what I knew was 100% correct. I had always thought that glass tanks with a bottom plastic trim did not need or even benefit at all from sitting on a flat board (ie 1/2 inch plywood) with white styrofoam on top. Reason being the plastic trim supports the weight of tank and bottom glass panel is suspended in air. Well, when I questioned Miracles why a portion of my front panel was raised 1/8 inch off the stand, they replied that the twisting is normal but that the tank and trim should rest on 1/2 inch plywood and 5/8 inch white styrofoam. This info is not advertised or documented on their own set up instruction/warranty sheet. They do actually recommend the RC DIY stand instructions (which, please correct me if I'm wrong) does not call for the board and styro for glass tanks.
ganjero
saiperchémibatteilcorazon
thanks for the reply. Also should the top frame be the exact same dimensions as the bottom of the tank? I was thinking in making it 1" bigger all around (73x37 for a tank 72x36) to be safe.
TheFishMan65
New member
jt,
That contradict what I was told about 4 foot tanks (different manufacturer maybe). Was that statement for large tanks or all tanks?
That contradict what I was told about 4 foot tanks (different manufacturer maybe). Was that statement for large tanks or all tanks?
jt48
Member
Don't know if size matters but mine is 8 foot
TheFishMan65
New member
I was told that for a 4 foot and under you can support just the ends. For longer you need to support the front and back as well.
TheFishMan65
New member
You could use 2x4s. Almost half the weight is on the 36 inch side, but it would allow for close to the 1/8 in deflection limit (using the formula) which was Rocket's limit. 2x6 would definitely be fine.
ganjero
saiperchémibatteilcorazon
Is this ok? this would give about 1/2" extra all around.
TheFishMan65
New member
As long as the tank's frame is over the stand you should be good.
ganjero
saiperchémibatteilcorazon
Thanks RocketEngineer for creating such a nice thread and an easy design, thanks everybody else for your help. I was scared to this for a 300g tank since I never done any wood work before; I finished my stand frame in about 3 hours in it seems pretty good and level, the empty tank is on it and it seems its going to hold good. Now I need to do more reading and get ideas to do the finishing.
I have a couple of questions, I have seen people use diagonal supports in the corners for the leg, are they important? different design? add more strength? I'm probably going to put 2x8 legs in the center front and back just to make it easier to skin it and put doors. Also fro the pics you can tell that I put the screwing strips in the different direction that the original design, I hope that doesn't make a big diffrence.
Thanks again,.
Crappy phone pics
Front
Back
I have a couple of questions, I have seen people use diagonal supports in the corners for the leg, are they important? different design? add more strength? I'm probably going to put 2x8 legs in the center front and back just to make it easier to skin it and put doors. Also fro the pics you can tell that I put the screwing strips in the different direction that the original design, I hope that doesn't make a big diffrence.
Thanks again,.
Crappy phone pics
Front
Back
Last edited:
Is it ok to make the fram 1/2 " smaller all the way around so that when you put a 1/2" plywood top on it the 1/2" skin will then be flush? Then, all I have to do is use some decorative wood molding to hide the tank frame. In other words, the outside edge of the tank frame would not be sitting directly over top of the stand frame but it would be sitting on the plywood top. I think this would still work.
