DIY "Stream" Style Pump

does anyone have one working to perfection yet? if so can we get a list of the goodies you used? hats off to you guys tryin to get this going and being so creative. awsome project.
 
niko5 said:
DonJasper,
Good info :) I really think ( i may be wrong ) that the key to this is not having a pro racing prop [snip]

DonJasper do you have a picture of your prop after trimming? :)
Click to expand...

My semi-local hobby shop sold two types. The cheapo plastic ones and brass ones like $15/ea. Hummm tough choice huh? The racing type props weren't offered - which in hindsight was a good thing. Lucky break for me I guess. Amazing how one thing leads to another. So now I've got a working knowledge of the in's and out's of RC boat propellers!!

"Oh no - you don't want a 2" diamater 3" pitch brass three blade lefty. You'll want a .... " :lol:

There's a reason that I left that little detail out of the first batch of pics. It was not an oversight. (sigh). But since you asked I'll embarrass myself and take and post a pics.
 
jayjellyfish1,
I believe mine are working to perfection except for the 2nd one i made. Please note however it has only been running in my tank for about 4 days. The only problem it has is some rattling noise and that's because I didn't have enough titanium rod to use one piece for the whole shaft so a piece of the shaft isn't secure and it rattles.

I used the original clip on part from the maxi jet
a 2" clean out cap
1 1/2" pvc stuck into that
Titanium rod (3/32 or titanium ground probe from doc fosters)
Piece of acrylic at the end to secure the center rod
the plastic push button portion of a retractable (cheep) pen to make the connection from the 3/16" clear tube to the existing maxi jet mag portion
a piece of 3/16" clear ridged tube
CHEEP rc prop 1.25"
Bunches of hot melt and superglue

DonJasper,
cant wait to see that prop hehe
 
I'd like to try building some of these too. I like the idea of replacing the MJ impellor shaft with a longer one so that the shaft is held stationary and the magnet/propellor assembly rotates around it.

Does anyone know what the thickness of the MJ impellor shaft is? it looks like 3/32" according to my ruler, but I don't know if metal rods are like wood, where a 2x4 isn't 2"x4". If I have to mail order a metal rod, I'd like to get the right thickness.

Even better, I'd like to buy the rod locally, so I could slip it through the MJ magnet and convince myself that it could work. :) What kind of shops would sell such a thing as stainless steel or titanium rod? I don't even know what to look under in the yellow pages, LOL. :)

I'm going to start trolling hobby shops for props. Fun!

jayo
 
The rod size is 3/32 and I think ited be best to go with titanium rod. Bike shops have titanium bike spokes.. if you could convince tem to sale you just 1 then go with that. Doc Fosters and Smith has a ground probe that works prefect.
 
Thanks on the 3/32" advice.

I looked up bicycle spokes online. 3/32" is about 2.38 mm or so - but I couldn't find any straight bicycle spokes (titanium or stainless steel) greater than 2mm in diameter, which seems like it would be a little thin.

McMaster Carr does have 3/32" stainless steel rod (though not the most corrosion resistant SS, oh well) and it is cheap too. I'd prefer titanium but they only carry 1/16" and 1/8". The grounding probe is just too expensive - I'm thinking of building several of these, so I want at least a couple feet of rod to play with. Thanks though!

I looked up "metal" in the yellow pages, and didn't see any listings for places that just sell metal components - it was all fabrication houses. I may try calling some of these to see if they have anything useful.

jayo
 
You might be able to drill it but ejmeier drilled his (not sure how big) but cracked the mag I think on 2 or 3 different trys.
 
I don't have a drill press and my hand drilling skills are nowhere near adequate to drill out the impeller. The 3/32" stainless steel rod from mcmaster carr is so cheap ($1.60 for six feet) that I think I'll try using it - even if I have to replace the shaft every 6 months it will be cheap and hopefully it will make for easy modding.

Now I just have to get some props and figure out how to attach them to the impeller magnet...

jayo
 
I was wondering if anyone considered using the new gurilla glue? I have some and its suppose to be the toughest glue on the planet. it is expensive though. i think i paid $8 for a small bottle.
i do have a titanium grounding probe. i could snip a piece and still use the rest for grounding the system i think?

the only part im puzzled on is the pen piece and how you guys are keeping the prop spinnin in the needed direction when it goes on and off. any pics?
 
Why are you guys bumping this thread? I keep coming back to read the latest, and 3 posts in a row are nothing! These DIYers will chime in when they've got more to share.
 
jayjellyfish1 said:
I was wondering if anyone considered using the new gurilla glue? I have some and its suppose to be the toughest glue on the planet. it is expensive though. i think i paid $8 for a small bottle.
i do have a titanium grounding probe. i could snip a piece and still use the rest for grounding the system i think?

the only part im puzzled on is the pen piece and how you guys are keeping the prop spinnin in the needed direction when it goes on and off. any pics?
Click to expand...

Page 8 of this thread. Post by jhammond. Pics. See that bar going across the middle? For a verbal description of how it works: Page 1. Post by thunt
 
Well melev here is a somewhat useful bump :)

The first one I put in the tank is still going strong and it had a slight hum to it at first but I either got used to it or its quieted down.

The 2nd one I put in rattles but thatââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢s because the rod in it is not solid its part of the original rod and the rest is a titanium rod and it kind of rattles in there well the prop stopped on it took it apart and I had hot melted the prop on and it broke the connection so thatââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢s gluing now with super glue (I used hotmelt just for testing then change to superglue but i forgot on that part).

anyway there were no signs of ware inside the 3/16" tube prop or anything so I think its going to be a success.
 
so what is your opinions on the modified powerheads? do you think they give more flow than stock? a more widespread flow? give the tank better circulation than a normal powerhead? help reduce dead-flow spots?
 
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