do anemones need to be quarintined?

I have never quarantined an anemone. If you really want to.. you should quaratine it in a tank that is fully matured, has the right lights to support an anemone and keep it there for two months.
 
I never have... I wouldn't recommend it either. They are sensitive creatures. A well established tank with great water and light is the only place they belong.

I know my quarantine tank does not meet those specs... ;)
 
I don't think its necessary.. I don't think any type of unwanted pest would want to live with the stinging of an anemone.
 
theres no need to quarintine anemones. the reason is not many if any parasites will traval on a anemone. plus many quarintine tanks are not cycled long enough to even put an anemone in one.
 
Lots of this discussion seems to revolves around the assumed inappropriateness of a QT tank for an anemone (which, of couse, is not always true), but let's take a step back. It is often believed that some anemones come in with infections, and healthy anemones are believed to sometimes get infections from bacterial-laden foods.

So are folks claiming that a new anemone coming in with an internal bacterial infection stands very little chance of spreading it to a healthy anemone of the same species in the same tank?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13549823#post13549823 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Randy Holmes-Farley
Lots of this discussion seems to revolves around the assumed inappropriateness of a QT tank for an anemone (which, of couse, is not always true), but let's take a step back. It is often believed that some anemones come in with infections, and healthy anemones are believed to sometimes get infections from bacterial-laden foods.

So are folks claiming that a new anemone coming in with an internal bacterial infection stands very little chance of spreading it to a healthy anemone of the same species in the same tank?

I have lost 2 newly introduced Haddonis that I believe had infections, they were both in tanks with healthy Haddonis, in both cases the existing ones never looked different, and are still with me. The systems aren't that large, a 58, and a 75.
 
I haven't. I'm pretty sure the nematocysts would kill any ich or velvet that it's been in contact with.
 
Some of the rationale of the posts here are questionable. An anemone doesn't have to be ostensibly infected to bring in an infection. The water an anemone is in can harbor pathogens. And even if the anemone is taken out of the water in the transport container before placing in the aquarium it still could transfer an infection. As for nematocysts killing ich or velvet, anemones don't get ich or velvet, but that isn't because of nematocysts. That's because those parasites target fish. Shrimp and snails and other invertebrates also don't get velvet. However, the water the anemone is in could harbor the pathogen. Experts usually suggest you quarantine everything, including live rock, for the same obvious reasons I've mentioned. So, in an ideal world, one would have a quarantine tank that is set up with all the requirements the newly purchased anemone needs (cycled, proper parameters, lighting, the whole shooting- match) and the anemone would stay there for a couple of months, and once no signs of disease are present, then it would be transferred.

I haven't done all that in the past when I was acquiring new specimens, but I was also taking a chance, as is anyone else that doesn't properly quarantine. If you are getting an anemone from an established tank where the anemone has lived for a long time disease free, then you can pretty much rest assured it is okay. Or, if you are getting a clone from a trusted source, again, you're odds are minimal of transferring a pathogen. In general, I think it is good to get your anemone(s) and then let the tank settle and not add stuff. Let what you have grow out and take good care of them, focusing your energy on keeping the water in good condition rather than experimenting with every species of animal that fascinates.
 
The problem with quarantining an anemone is that they would likely never survive the levels of residual copper in my Q-tank.

Sure ich doesn't target anemones specifically, but can a Cryptocaryon tomont survive contact with one?
 
I don't know if a nematocyst would discharge upon contact with ich, I doubt it. And there are parts of anemones that don't have nematocysts, so it's a mute point. But, the water that accompanies the anemone can have a variety of pathogens, even the water inside the body of the anemone.

As far as copper in a quarantine tank, as I mentioned, the quarantine tank would need to be up to par with the display tank in terms of water parameters, lighting, water flow, etc.--including insignificant quantities of copper. If you use copper for fish quarantine, then clearly, that would not be the quarantine tank you would want to use for anemones or any other invertebrates, for that matter.
 
Make that a moot point, instead of mute, and I see other mistakes in that last post of mine-- I need a nap;-)
 
wow i really opened up a big can of worms with my newbie question. my intended RBTA is coming from a fellow reefer who's anemone split. so i'll chance putting him in my display tank. i new they needed an established tank so it seemed like the quarentine was out of the question, but this being my first i thought i should ask the experts. thanks for all the replies i appriciate them.
 
There are reports of newly introduced anemones passing some type of infection/illness on to well established anemones in the same system. It only stands to reason that this could happen. Infections spread very easily in a closed system.

To quarantine or not is a very hard question to answer. On one hand it would prevent bacterial infections from spreading to healthy anemones in the display. On the other, it would force new anemones to go through the acclimation process twice. Despite our best efforts, it would be next to impossible to set up a QT exactly the same as the display. We could get close, but there would still be an adjustment period after being placed in the display. Some species (H. magnifica) don't take to change very well.

When I set up my large anemone tank, I think I will QT the more delicate species, like magnifica and gigantea. The more hardy species like haddoni and BTA I will probably skip QT.
 
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