Do I need to shim?? Images attached

bobbobobbo1

New member
It is a 125 gallon Aqueon tank on my homebuilt stand. The stand is solid, and sitting on a concrete, yet the concrete isn't perfectly level..

I'd much rather leave this like it is if I don't have to.. I can live with it a little uneven. I tried shimming slightly and it started making it wobbly..

This is the front face, side to side
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This is the side face, left is back - right is front
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I'm just not sure when it's seriously problematic. I can take a pic with 2" water in it as well if needed. Thank you!!
 
Since the front to back pitch is towards the back that slope should be fine assuming the stand does not wobble at all. Where is your overflow box? If it is on the left or middle it should be fine since the left side is low, but if it is on the right hand side I would level it up. If your stand is not wobbling at all on the floor you will be fine, but if there is any play at all it needs to be shimmed.
 
Not too bad but I would put a plywood top on the stand and shim under the plywood until close to perfect (that is what I did actually).
 
based on your level's bubble of the side of tank, I'd shim the tank and when I do, I'd shim the entire length of the stand base not just one section. They have large size shims at HD.
 
I strive for making it as level as I possibly can. Shims are cheap. Cleaning up after the tank fails because it was out of level costs infinitely more. If it was wobbling after you put a couple shims in it was doing so because you hadn't finished the job.

And shim under the stand, not between the stand and tank or the stand and a piece of plywood. Plywood can and will flex over time, especially if (when) it gets wet.
 
Yea, That looks like a little too much. If that level is true. It will show when water level is a bit higher, Measure down from the corners to the water surface and you'll have a better idea of how much to shim and where.
With that much front to back, Backside being higher, You'll need a little higher water level to reach the overflow weir. Which will put even more pressure on the front pane thats already leaning foreward.
 
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Shim. You only need to shim under the vertical members of the stand. The horizontals do not support load.

Shim between stand and floor.
 
Thanks everyone. Definitely between stand and floor, yup. I will have to keep adjusting until I get it all right. Not worth the risk.

My concern was the gap that is left when I do shim, it just seemed less solid as it's not distributed everywhere. As well all that weight on such a little piece.. Yet I guess if it's truly only on the corners for load, then it doesn't matter? Just shim corners until perfect..

Composite shims are best? Could I use a piece of plexiglass I have and stick that under there? Should work
 
Shims are wedge shaped, Triangular, So when the are slid together piont to point they create a flat surface under the leg. Then you can trim off the excess that shows if needed.
 
Thanks everyone. Definitely between stand and floor, yup. I will have to keep adjusting until I get it all right. Not worth the risk.

My concern was the gap that is left when I do shim, it just seemed less solid as it's not distributed everywhere. As well all that weight on such a little piece.. Yet I guess if it's truly only on the corners for load, then it doesn't matter? Just shim corners until perfect..

Composite shims are best? Could I use a piece of plexiglass I have and stick that under there? Should work

huh? Buy a pack of cedar shims at home depot. They are like $5.
 
You built the stand? If you have a Skill Saw and a piece of Pressure Treated 2x4 layin around, Cut some long tapered strips. Like 10" long from 1/4" to 0. Or get some from HD. They come in a pack of about a dozen. They aren't very long IIRC. But the big cedar shakes are more for installing Pre-hung doors. Wouldn't want them getting wet.
 
Is this a place for sure you plane on keeping the tank?

Is so, I know no one likes this answer, but me personally, I would pour self leveling compound and be done with it.

Frame it up about 1/2" to 1", pour the compound, once dry and cured, put the stand back on. Your stand will be rock solid and you will never worry about anything.

By no means am I saying shims wont work, but chasing them all around to you feel the stand is perfect sometimes take longer then just doing the above.
 
Use standard shims starting with the biggest gap, work your way up to the front of the stand. You don't want to use one large shim because that will not accurately support the load. Start with biggest gap, by the time you put 3 or 4 shims in, moving towards the front of the tank, it should be sturdy as can be. Then check again for level
 
On another stand thread, IIRC, billdogg recommended leveling the tank by putting in just enough water to be above the bottom trim and adjusting stand with shims until the water level is lined up with tank trim, an excellent technique.

If you end with fairly large gaps between the floor and stand, you could scribe the bottom of the stand and trim.

BTW, I would not be OK with a tank that far out of level.
 
Can the stand be turned around and then the level checked again? It is possible that the floor and the stand both have variation so turning it around may make it better or worse.
 
Stand cannot be turned around unfortunately
There currently are 0 gaps, it sits very flush with the floor. Yet that floor is not level.. I rent and cannot pour self level.

For example I can shim the front of the tank on each corner and get it to be level enough without wobbling. Yet it leaves large gaps.. which would mean all the weight is resting on two little shims? Albeit they are in the corners, is that the right way to do it? Or do I keep shoving shims in everywhere after I have a base level.
 
This is driving me a bit nuts.. I've started to shim and it seems like 3 of the corners need to be shimmed to get it level front to back side to side. Yet it's still not right level. That and there is this is a huge gap now...
+ I have to shim from the inside as there's a cover on the outside I don't want supporting.

I have to stack the shims together too.. yet shims are a slope, isn't that a problem?

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I'm losing my marbles
 
composite shims are ideal for water areas but so tiny. In your case I'd get the wider/larger wooden shims from HD so u dont lose any more marbles and easier to balance the stand...BTW, i used wooden shims on mine.

also on ur 2nd pix, r u shimming from inside the stand?...if so please stop, bc u should be shimming from the outside-in NOT inside-out
 
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