drummereef's 180g in-wall build
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drummereef
Team RC
:lol: Your wish is my command.
Once I hit 100 pages I plan on including a summary of all the various projects that have been included in the thread to make it easier to reference. 
drummereef
Team RC
UPDATE:
Been wanting to try this mod for a while and finally got around to it. The Nextreef SMR1 Pellet Reactor has 2 holes at the bottom of the down tube where water is pushed back through the perforated plenum and up the reaction chamber. It does a good job at keeping the pellets suspended but there is a definite "channeling" flow pattern inside the reactor. So I drilled 2 extra holes, now a total of 4 holes, to see if there would be a positive effect on the flow pattern throughout the reactor. Others have found this mod to be highly effective so I wanted to give it a try...
Here's a picture to show the original 2 hole design of the down tube in the SMR1 Reactor. I took this picture after I drilled the tube so you can see the new holes on either side - but you get the idea.
I used a 3/8" spade bit to drill the 2 new holes, now creating 4 holes evenly spaced around the tube.
Final product. I can say without a doubt this mod is highly effective at creating an even flow pattern through the reactor. All the pellets are moving in an upward pattern whereas before the pellets moved mostly above where the original hole were located. I now have complete movement throughout the reactor. It didn't effect flow rates significantly, if anything it might take slightly less flow to keep the pellets suspended. I Highly recommend this mod if you are using the SMR1 Pellet Reactor with a bio pellet setup. :thumbsup:
Been wanting to try this mod for a while and finally got around to it. The Nextreef SMR1 Pellet Reactor has 2 holes at the bottom of the down tube where water is pushed back through the perforated plenum and up the reaction chamber. It does a good job at keeping the pellets suspended but there is a definite "channeling" flow pattern inside the reactor. So I drilled 2 extra holes, now a total of 4 holes, to see if there would be a positive effect on the flow pattern throughout the reactor. Others have found this mod to be highly effective so I wanted to give it a try...
Here's a picture to show the original 2 hole design of the down tube in the SMR1 Reactor. I took this picture after I drilled the tube so you can see the new holes on either side - but you get the idea.
I used a 3/8" spade bit to drill the 2 new holes, now creating 4 holes evenly spaced around the tube.
Final product. I can say without a doubt this mod is highly effective at creating an even flow pattern through the reactor. All the pellets are moving in an upward pattern whereas before the pellets moved mostly above where the original hole were located. I now have complete movement throughout the reactor. It didn't effect flow rates significantly, if anything it might take slightly less flow to keep the pellets suspended. I Highly recommend this mod if you are using the SMR1 Pellet Reactor with a bio pellet setup. :thumbsup:
Last edited by a moderator:
drummereef
Team RC
Haha! It was pure coincidence. :lol2:
Thanks! Video coming soon...
Yes, next time I replace my carbon I think I'm going to mod that reactor as well. Much more even flow distribution throughout the reactor.
drummereef
Team RC
UPDATE:
So here's a comparison video of the reactor without and with the mod.
Original video shot 9-2-2010 - Stock SMR1 Reactor, shortly after the reactor was added to the system. Notice how most of the flow is isolated at either side, left and right in the reactor. This was where the 2 original holes were positioned and as a result most of the up-flow was pushing from these points. Also notice how the flow travels up each side but down in the middle, almost a cyclical motion.
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Updated video shot 3-6-2011 -SMR1 Down Tube Modded Reactor. Notice now how there is a more consistent flow pattern from the bottom of the reactor, creating a much more random tumble of the pellets.
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So here's a comparison video of the reactor without and with the mod.
Original video shot 9-2-2010 - Stock SMR1 Reactor, shortly after the reactor was added to the system. Notice how most of the flow is isolated at either side, left and right in the reactor. This was where the 2 original holes were positioned and as a result most of the up-flow was pushing from these points. Also notice how the flow travels up each side but down in the middle, almost a cyclical motion.
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Updated video shot 3-6-2011 -SMR1 Down Tube Modded Reactor. Notice now how there is a more consistent flow pattern from the bottom of the reactor, creating a much more random tumble of the pellets.
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drummereef
Team RC
iwishtofish
Active member
I can definitely see the difference in the water flow through the media. Nice job!
Thanks for the link to that fascinating study on carbon dosing and bacteria removal via protein skimming. It was so long that I only skimmed the main body of the article and concentrated on the conclusion. However, I kind of brought this away from it (am I close?):
Protein skimming is effective in removing only certain "susceptible" types of bacteria from the water column. Skimming does, however, remove a certain percentage of the predatory bacterial increase verified to result from carbon dosing. In addition, protein skimming strips reef aquarium water of bacterial diversity found in natural reefs, and this leads the researchers to wonder if this upset in the "natural" balance may stress tank inhabitants and eventually contribute to what is commonly known as "old tank syndrome."
The use of Granulated Activated Carbon does not effectively reduce water-column bacteria levels.
SPS corals thrive in water with lower bacterial counts, whereas soft corals thrive in the opposite.
This article is a true test of reading comprehension (for me)!
Thanks for the link to that fascinating study on carbon dosing and bacteria removal via protein skimming. It was so long that I only skimmed the main body of the article and concentrated on the conclusion. However, I kind of brought this away from it (am I close?):
Protein skimming is effective in removing only certain "susceptible" types of bacteria from the water column. Skimming does, however, remove a certain percentage of the predatory bacterial increase verified to result from carbon dosing. In addition, protein skimming strips reef aquarium water of bacterial diversity found in natural reefs, and this leads the researchers to wonder if this upset in the "natural" balance may stress tank inhabitants and eventually contribute to what is commonly known as "old tank syndrome."
The use of Granulated Activated Carbon does not effectively reduce water-column bacteria levels.
SPS corals thrive in water with lower bacterial counts, whereas soft corals thrive in the opposite.
This article is a true test of reading comprehension (for me)!
cromedogg33
Member
Brett,
Great mod, may have to look into doing this as well. Have you had any ill effects from doing this?
I noticed when I tured up my flow through my reactor just a bit that I noticed the pellets working overtime failry quickly, then again it could have just been my tank.
Great mod, may have to look into doing this as well. Have you had any ill effects from doing this?
I noticed when I tured up my flow through my reactor just a bit that I noticed the pellets working overtime failry quickly, then again it could have just been my tank.
A 100 page bump...lol.
Brett...saw your post on the Zeo Forum. Really looking forward to your review of their products. You and I pretty much started our 180's at the same time and used same dry rock and had same type algae outbreak around the same time too.
In all honest I can not wrap my head around the "Zeo-way" right now and find searching their forum to be a bit overwhelming. I am with you, I need to find the right cocktail to begin dosing Zeo on a regular basis.
BTW: my tank has FINALLY made the corner in the right direction. The brown hair algae on the rock is almost gone and, more importantly, the brown layer of algae on my sandbed is much diminished and easily control with limited siphoning.
Anyhow....that's the latest and good luck getting to 100!
Brett...saw your post on the Zeo Forum. Really looking forward to your review of their products. You and I pretty much started our 180's at the same time and used same dry rock and had same type algae outbreak around the same time too.
In all honest I can not wrap my head around the "Zeo-way" right now and find searching their forum to be a bit overwhelming. I am with you, I need to find the right cocktail to begin dosing Zeo on a regular basis.
BTW: my tank has FINALLY made the corner in the right direction. The brown hair algae on the rock is almost gone and, more importantly, the brown layer of algae on my sandbed is much diminished and easily control with limited siphoning.
Anyhow....that's the latest and good luck getting to 100!
gary faulkner
New member
drummereef
Team RC
I can definitely see the difference in the water flow through the media. Nice job!
Thanks for the link to that fascinating study on carbon dosing and bacteria removal via protein skimming. It was so long that I only skimmed the main body of the article and concentrated on the conclusion. However, I kind of brought this away from it (am I close?)...
This article is a true test of reading comprehension (for me)!
Yes, I think you got it.
I skimmed through a bunch of parts myself, like how they decided on a method to study the bacteria and the different ways to count bacteria etc... :spin2: I found it very interesting there is little to no gains once a certain bacterial threshold has been achieved in the water column when dosing "liquid" carbon sources. Wonder if this is why some people find diminishing returns over longer periods when vodka dosing... I haven't noticed any change to the tank since I did the mod, but it's only been a little over 1 day now. I don't think the flow rate has increased, just the tumble is more consistent throughout the pellets. I'll report back as I know more.
:lol: Haha, I don't think it will be quite that exciting.
Awesome tegee, glad your tank is pulling through the algae cycles. :thumbsup: How deep is your sand bed?
Ha! Thank you Snookster.
:lol: You guys are cracking me up! Haha.
cromedogg33
Member
On another note Brett....
Have you decided on actinics yet? I ended up going with 12 xr-e cree leds mounted directly to the lighting fixture as I talked with Mike at rapid led and felt that the aluminum would act as the heatsink.
I ended up adding 12 more with 60 degree optics along with the 12 with 80 degree lenses. All I can say is WOW, for actinics these look great and are extremely bright and it may be something you want to look into. I could not figure out a way to get VHO or T5 onto my fixture. You may want to look into it if you are still wanting some dawn/dusk.
Have you decided on actinics yet? I ended up going with 12 xr-e cree leds mounted directly to the lighting fixture as I talked with Mike at rapid led and felt that the aluminum would act as the heatsink.
I ended up adding 12 more with 60 degree optics along with the 12 with 80 degree lenses. All I can say is WOW, for actinics these look great and are extremely bright and it may be something you want to look into. I could not figure out a way to get VHO or T5 onto my fixture. You may want to look into it if you are still wanting some dawn/dusk.
drummereef
Team RC
Nice Josh! That's exactly what I want to add to the light rack. I'm going to have to really start looking into this as I'm really wanting to go this direction. Are the optics necessary or can you just run the straight LEDs no optics?
cromedogg33
Member
Well...The 80's I don't think are entirely neccesary. The reason I went to 24 I think is because I was looking for "BRIGHTNESS" with just the LED's on. With the original 12 I put on it definately lit the tank, but the fish almost treated it as "lights out" and still wouldn't swim around.
With the 24 the fish tend to stick around a little longer and then I switch 12 off then turn all off.
As far as optics I think you will need them just for the fact we dont' have hoods or anything to keep the light in the tank. On the front side of the tank I noticed I lost a bit of light from wall. My fixture is on chains and not slideable like yours so you may able to pull it out from the wall a bit. Mine sits flush against the wall so that I cover all the tank with my halides.
I would reccomend doing a 80/60 mix like I did. I'll get some pictures of with the 12 with 80's up and 24 of them with 80/60 degreen optics up so you can see the difference, just need to find a better camera than my point and shoot to show you coverage.
My only real complaint is the xr-e's from cree definately create more of a blacklight affect than VHO's. It's by no means a "blacklight" its just definately an affect. It will definately show every piece of algae like a sore thumb in your tank when you do take pics
The only other pain is the amount of soldering/wires that will be on your fixture. But....... I'm sure you will find some amazing way to run the wires while mine are just cut to length.
With the 24 the fish tend to stick around a little longer and then I switch 12 off then turn all off.
As far as optics I think you will need them just for the fact we dont' have hoods or anything to keep the light in the tank. On the front side of the tank I noticed I lost a bit of light from wall. My fixture is on chains and not slideable like yours so you may able to pull it out from the wall a bit. Mine sits flush against the wall so that I cover all the tank with my halides.
I would reccomend doing a 80/60 mix like I did. I'll get some pictures of with the 12 with 80's up and 24 of them with 80/60 degreen optics up so you can see the difference, just need to find a better camera than my point and shoot to show you coverage.
My only real complaint is the xr-e's from cree definately create more of a blacklight affect than VHO's. It's by no means a "blacklight" its just definately an affect. It will definately show every piece of algae like a sore thumb in your tank when you do take pics
The only other pain is the amount of soldering/wires that will be on your fixture. But....... I'm sure you will find some amazing way to run the wires while mine are just cut to length.
