drummereef's 180g in-wall build

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15213537#post15213537 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by H.Veras
hehehe you guys should see my waves... :):):)


That fancy camera of yours has got to do video right? :)
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15213547#post15213547 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by drummereef
That fancy camera of yours has got to do video right? :)

believe or not i haven't play around with the camera that much....but i'll try to learn more about it.....
 
Tunze pumps make waves too, and we don't read about tanks blowing part left and right. I think you might be a tad overly nervous about the Vortech waves. The tank is brand new - let's test it out and she what she can handle! :D :D :D

Just kidding. Myself, I prefer Reefcrest for my pumps.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15213640#post15213640 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by melev
...let's test it out and she what she can handle! :D :D :D


:lol: Did you ever try out the wave in your tank Marc? Do you sync or anti-sync when in reefcrest mode?


Btw, Tim told me you can't disable the Master without resetting each slave pump. Bummer. Maybe they will add a feature to the software at some point. I guess it's not hard to reset the pump, just wish it was a one button switch between sync, anti-sync, and "bypass".
 
Last edited:
I tried for a few minutes to see what it might be like, but after seeing a 1/2" wave, I blew it off. I don't want a wave. I want random flow.

Each of my pumps are in Master mode. I don't want them communicating. That way whatever each pump chooses to spike or ebb, the others don't imitate or deflect... I figure that is the most random I can make it, letting all rates happen by chance.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15213652#post15213652 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by drummereef
I guess it's not hard to reset the pump, just wish it was a one button switch between sync, anti-sync, and "bypass".
I agree, It'd be cool if it were a button, switch, or a jumper you moved from a set of pins to a different set(kinda like on a HDD). Sounds like it could be easily remedied with a software change/upgrade though. I'll keep my fingers crossed.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15213673#post15213673 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by melev
I tried for a few minutes to see what it might be like, but after seeing a 1/2" wave, I blew it off. I don't want a wave. I want random flow.

Each of my pumps are in Master mode. I don't want them communicating. That way whatever each pump chooses to spike or ebb, the others don't imitate or deflect... I figure that is the most random I can make it, letting all rates happen by chance.

I agree, it's kind of a novelty setting imo. But still kind of cool to show friends. :D Right now I'm running reef crest in master/slave mode but I think I'm going to make them both masters for that reason. Seems to me it would be even more chaotic this way.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15213688#post15213688 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by H.Veras
hehehe if one day i get home and my tank is all over the floor i know why..:):):)

Pray that never happens. :eek:
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15214663#post15214663 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jmadison
I agree, It'd be cool if it were a button, switch, or a jumper you moved from a set of pins to a different set(kinda like on a HDD). Sounds like it could be easily remedied with a software change/upgrade though. I'll keep my fingers crossed.

Definitely. I don't know why this isn't an option but like you said maybe in the next software upgrade. Would be nice. :)
 
UPDATE:


In doing my freshwater testing I found I had a faulty seal in my Dart pump causing a small leak to form and drip down from the impeller shaft. Thanks to Melev's detailed writeup on how to replace a Dart seal I was able to replace it quite easily. Here's what I did. :)


The anatomy of a Dart. The Impeller and Volute Bracket

pics001.jpg~original



Here you can see I've removed the whole Volute Assembly.

pics003.jpg~original



The Old Seals

pics002.jpg~original



Here's a closeup of the Seal. As you can see it was probably cemented with rubber cement. I found this to be a little bit strange myself. Don't know why they didn't use something more substantial. And you can see air bubbles and pockets where water is free to escape.

pics007.jpg~original



Here I've replaced the Impeller Seal with the new one.

pics008.jpg~original
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Reeflo recommends using a silicone sealer on the Bracket Side Seal. I used Dap Aquarium Sealant for this application.

pics010.jpg~original


The instructions say to apply sealant to the Bracket Bore ID Wall as shown.

pics009.jpg~original



Also apply some sealer to the Seal Case.

pics011.jpg~original



I lightly pressed the Seal Assembly into the Bracket for a snug fit. I presume the silicone also acted as a lubricant as it didn't take much force to seat the Seal Assembly into the Bracket. Melev recommends using a 1" socket which works perfectly but I didn't have one on hand so I gently used a flat head screwdriver to push the flange down to the bracket wall. I just carefully worked my way around the flange until it had properly seated, being careful not to damage the center spring and seal.

pics012.jpg~original



After tooling the silicone on the flange side.

pics013.jpg~original



The opposite side after tooling the silicone.

pics014.jpg~original



Reeflo recommends allowing the silicone to set up for 2 hours before using the pump. I let the silicone cure overnight before I put the Dart back online. The finished product, a happy Dart. :D


pics015.jpg~original
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Are you going to be choking the dart back any or let it run full open? With all your plumbing what do you expect your return flow to be after head loss?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15222302#post15222302 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Taqpol
Are you going to be choking the dart back any or let it run full open? With all your plumbing what do you expect your return flow to be after head loss?

At the moment I've got my recirc line fully open and the main valve on the dart about 1/3 of the way down. I love the recirc right now. I have a 45 on the output so its blowing down towards the bottom of the sump. I think it will do a fantastic job keeping the detritus in suspension for the skimmer. I plan to do some flow calculation soon. Crvz said to siphon a calculated amount of water out of the display and time how long it takes to refill from the sump. Then do the math. Might need help with that part. :lol:
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15222948#post15222948 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by melev
That looks great, Brett. Well done.

Thank you Marc. Your how-to really helped visualize what I was looking at during the process. Overall it was relatively easy from my experience. Reeflo emailed me a copy of your writeup. However I think they edited a couple things including the addition of the sealant. I should email their instruction sheet to you so you can see the edits.
 
Please do. I'll be happy to update it.

The older Little Giant pump still runs fine, but I have a feeling it needs seals replaced too. I wonder if those can still be purchased...
 
Little Giant

Little Giant

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15224132#post15224132 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by melev
Please do. I'll be happy to update it.

The older Little Giant pump still runs fine, but I have a feeling it needs seals replaced too. I wonder if those can still be purchased...

Little Giant is still in business; Their main offices are in OKC. Not sure about replacement parts, but I bet they're available.

Their website says, "For information and inquiries about replacement parts for our products, please contact Technical Support at 1-800-701-7894"

LL
 
Back
Top