drummereef's 180g in-wall build

[drummereef]

also try some artic pods - my anthias always went nuts for the stuff

Thanks for the tip Pete. Woah, that stuff is pricey. :lol: I went into the LFS today and the big bottle was 75 big ones. I about had sticker shock. He said it was really good stuff though.

try smaller items. PE mysis is pretty large.... just get some off brand stuff, it tends to be smaller. Also cyclopseeze is great for finicky anthias I have found. If the Lyertail doeson't eat the cyclops then something is wrong.

I have some Ocean Nutrition Cyclops I'm going to try tonight. Thanks Tyrenlds.

 

[cromedogg33]

Brett,

Have you given any thought to running a kalk reactor/stirrer inline with your auto top off when/if you do that?

 

[salali]

drummereef have you had problems with brown algae? I made a water test last night and I found my phosphate is high then did water change but the problem comes back even I am using DI water. I did ask my LFS and they told me because of over feeding but I do not feed my fish every day and a friend told me because my tank is new but it is running for about 6 months. Any ideas ?

 

[JHall651]

Finally got around to adding a proper auxiliary line on the RO/DI. It's really handy when I need a little water to mix up some calcium chloride or melt some frozen foods prior to feeding.

Sorry this is kind of a older post I am quoting. But I was just wondering if you thaw your food with fresh water? Will you do that with the food you spot feed with too?

 

[drummereef]

Brett,

Have you given any thought to running a kalk reactor/stirrer inline with your auto top off when/if you do that?

Hey chrome, what specifically are you referring to in the above statement. Sorry... just not fully understanding your question. I guess it's the "if you do that", what is "that" referring to?

drummereef have you had problems with brown algae? I made a water test last night and I found my phosphate is high then did water change but the problem comes back even I am using DI water. I did ask my LFS and they told me because of over feeding but I do not feed my fish every day and a friend told me because my tank is new but it is running for about 6 months. Any ideas ?

Indeed I have salali. Flip back a couple pages and you'll see some really horrific pics I took. :lol: For my situation, I think it was a lack of bacteria population from the start. If I did it over, I would have dosed bacteria from the beginning to give the nitrifying bacteria a good head start to combat the algae cycles. But hindsight is 20/20 so I'm having to backtrack a little to get where I want to be. You might be in the same situation, dunno... Did you use Marco or another dry rock exclusively?

Sorry this is kind of a older post I am quoting. But I was just wondering if you thaw your food with fresh water? Will you do that with the food you spot feed with too?

Hi JHall, sometimes I use the RO/DI auxiliary line to thaw frozen food before feeding but usually I just use a tiny bit of tank water. It's warmer than straight from the RO/DI so it takes less time to thaw. I've spot feed my fish using both water sources, doesn't seem to make any difference from what I can see as it's such a tiny amount of water - maybe just a Tbs or two.

 

[salali]

Thanks drummereef for the nice words. Yes I did use some Marco rocks and still want this algae to go.

 

[drummereef]

Thanks drummereef for the nice words. Yes I did use some Marco rocks and still want this algae to go.

No Problem salali. I'm posting my latest update so stick around. I'm going to discuss the bacteria issue further.

 

[drummereef]

UPDATE:


Hey everybody, sorry it's been a couple days. It was a busy weekend... :crazy1: But I do have a couple updates on the tank.


First, I finally got in all the supplies to get my 2-part solution going. I've been using the DIY 2-Part (Randy's) method for years so I decided to continue until I feel it's necessary to incorporate a calcium reactor on the system. I use BRS Calcium Chloride and Magnesium along with Arm & Hammer Baking Soda for the alkalinity part. BRS makes the a great pre-mixed Mag supplement that has both magnesium choride and magnesium sulfate.

My local grocery store has some heavy duty 1 gallon jugs that are nice to store the prepared 2-Part solutions.

For detailed instructions on how to prepare 2-Part click the links below:
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-02/rhf/index.php
http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/instructions/two-part-instructions

I also bought some more ROX 0.8 Carbon since I was running low.

And now for the most controversial topic... :lol: At this point I do think the ecoBAK is definitely doing something. I think it's definitely keeping NO3 & PO4 in check. However, in the beginning I was reluctant to dose any bacteria products for the first month of ecoBAK testing for a variety of reasons (bacteria blooms, etc). After much research and discussion with Jeremy B from Premium Aquatics about the situation I've decided to start dosing MicroBacter7 (MB7). If you aren't familiar it is one of the more popular bacterias in a bottle on the market. I feel that since I started with all Marco base rock there has been a lack of bacteria population from the beginning. Even by "seeding" the tank with live sand it's an extermely slow process to get the tank stable. Obviously there is enough bacteria to support the bio-load at this point, but not enough surplus bacteria to combat the continuing algae cycle. Essentially there was no competition for the nuisance algae so it ended up taking over. This became apparent to me since the majority of the algae has been on the rock and sand bed, normally where there is ample amount of bacteria in a typical live rock/sand environment to manage such issues. I'm supplying the carbon source for the bacteria to feed and multiply through the ecoBAK but feel I need a jump start of bacteria in the system to really do some damage. It's almost like the bacteria population has plateaued for lack of a better way to put it. I'm hoping the weekly dosing of MB7 really kicks the ecoBAK into full gear.

So, starting tonight I'm dosing 25 ml per week of MB7. I'll be updating the progress as we go...

 

[110galreef]

I want to say thanks for all the details and input as well as info that you have supplied me as well as others! I have been planning an inwall 225g (60x36x24)build and have got lots of great ideas as well as products to buy from varous sorces that you have used. Hope to not detract from your awesome build!

-- I see you are now adding bacteria. You also mention had you done it over...you would have started adding some bacteria from the start. Is this simply because you feel that the rock hasn't seeded enuf yet to really procees all. Thus adding a little to help? Do you therefor plan to stop adding as the tank matures? Say 3-6mos down the road?

Vortech's ...How are they w/ noise & vibrations? I am debating on 3 vortech on the back wall or a CLS w/ and Ocean Motion 4 way. I really want a clean look and minimal in the tank!

Since i am going inwall.....it seems I am losing the battle with the wifey on a front access panel. You didn't do one. Do you wish you would have yet? Has cleaning been a chore on the front. I am however going w/ a 36"w tank which will make front access much harder. I will however be able to raise or move the lights out of the way for complete access obove the tank to make entry & front access easier.

Also it appears your background has a removable black background. Has this really been a blessing or not much benefit. I want to run an externa coast to coast overflow and if i do external I will need to make the acrylic background permanetly black to hide the stuff in the overflow. No other way I can think to acheive this.

 

[canyousee]

Drummereef off current topics yet I value your opinion. I went back to see if you used compression foam or the horse mat under your tank when you set it up. Some threads say no foam on tanks with brace others say yes what did you do and what is your feelings on foam/mat under tanks (between tank and stand). thanks

 

[drummereef]

I want to say thanks for all the details and input as well as info that you have supplied me as well as others! I have been planning an inwall 225g (60x36x24)build and have got lots of great ideas as well as products to buy from varous sorces that you have used. Hope to not detract from your awesome build!

-- I see you are now adding bacteria. You also mention had you done it over...you would have started adding some bacteria from the start. Is this simply because you feel that the rock hasn't seeded enuf yet to really procees all. Thus adding a little to help? Do you therefor plan to stop adding as the tank matures? Say 3-6mos down the road?

Vortech's ...How are they w/ noise & vibrations? I am debating on 3 vortech on the back wall or a CLS w/ and Ocean Motion 4 way. I really want a clean look and minimal in the tank!

Since i am going inwall.....it seems I am losing the battle with the wifey on a front access panel. You didn't do one. Do you wish you would have yet? Has cleaning been a chore on the front. I am however going w/ a 36"w tank which will make front access much harder. I will however be able to raise or move the lights out of the way for complete access obove the tank to make entry & front access easier.

Also it appears your background has a removable black background. Has this really been a blessing or not much benefit. I want to run an externa coast to coast overflow and if i do external I will need to make the acrylic background permanetly black to hide the stuff in the overflow. No other way I can think to acheive this.

Thanks 110. Excited to see your tank project evolve. Yes, I probably should have dosed bacteria from the beginning. I think the idea of more beneficial bacteria the better is correct. If there are more "good" bacterias covering the surfaces of the aquarium it is less likely to encounter the type of bacteria bloom I had. Yes, most of the time cycle algae blooms are unavoidable but I do think the severity of the algae bloom I had (and continue to have) would have been at least minimized. I hope, once the tank stabilizes and the bacteria population has grown in size to support the complete bio load of the system I will be able to cut back or eliminate bacteria dosing. I just need to get over the hump and then allow the tank to maintain itself through the solid carbon dosing.

Vortechs and closed loops are apples and oranges but I like the idea of having multiple sources of flow. If the closed loop pump fails what are you to do for flow? Redundancy is a good thing in this hobby to me. I also like being able to place the Vortechs where I want or as the aquascape demands. I can still hear them (faintly) upstairs but they aren't bad at all. I haven't tried adjusting the magnet spacer yet but I was told it might cut even more of the noise down. I don't think you'll have an issue with them being in-wall though. I also like how energy efficient these pumps are. They barely use any electricity.

I decided not to have front access to the tank when I designed the system. Primarily because I didn't want to drip/spill water onto the new carpet and living area of the basement. I wanted the look of a true "in-wall" tank, not "in-cabinet" tank. Even though there are benefits to accessing the tank from the front I don't think I would have changed my mind for the reasons I mentioned. I wanted all the "mess" to be isolated to the room behind the tank.

As of right now my tank doesn't have a permanent background. The pics with the black background is just a temporary piece of laminate I had lying around that I use just for pictures. I do plan on using PVC sheet for the background and making it removable. With only having access to the tank from the back I think it's essential to have a removable background.

 

[drummereef]

Drummereef off current topics yet I value your opinion. I went back to see if you used compression foam or the horse mat under your tank when you set it up. Some threads say no foam on tanks with brace others say yes what did you do and what is your feelings on foam/mat under tanks (between tank and stand). thanks

Just for the sake of clarity I'll list the materials I used below...

1. 180g display tank sits on 3/4" plywood laminated with black "formica-type" laminate.

2. Acrylic sump sits on 1/2" "blue" rigid insulation (foam) from Lowe's.

3. Reeflo Dart return pump sits on 3/4" "horse mat" for vibration reduction.

For a rimmed tank like my display I don't recommend using any type of foam or rubber material. Rimmed tanks should sit directly on a rigid material such as a plywood substrate or equivalent. Acrylic tanks, or rimless glass tanks, should sit on foam insulation for even distribution of weight and as a general insulator between the acrylic/glass and substrate. You can use any material under a return pump but the rubber "horse mat" does a good job at insulating vibration and sound.


*disclaimer* - Always check with the manufacturer about appropriate substrate materials as it might void the warranty otherwise.

 

[canyousee]

Thanks I did call Lee-Mar Brain said the frame on the bottom was for looks and served for the look of the tank. He said it really did not matter about the foam us it if I wanted to or leave it off he liked ether way. So much you read on RC is IMO really not the facts and only the facts.

 

[Nanook]

I think the MB7 should help get things in line within a few weeks. I wouldn't change anything else in the mean time though so you know that is what did the trick.

 

[drummereef]

Thanks I did call Lee-Mar Brain said the frame on the bottom was for looks and served for the look of the tank. He said it really did not matter about the foam us it if I wanted to or leave it off he liked ether way. So much you read on RC is IMO really not the facts and only the facts.

That's interesting... And why I also suggest following the manufacturer's recommendations for installation. When I ordered my tank, I called Marineland and they specifically advised not to use any "compressible" material under their rimmed tanks. It can cause uneven weight distribution and possibly cause pressure points on the bottom glass. Perhaps Lee-Mar has a different design in their tanks making the rim more of a decorative element but from what Marineland said about their tanks it was definitely structural.

I think the MB7 should help get things in line within a few weeks. I wouldn't change anything else in the mean time though so you know that is what did the trick.

Thanks Nook. Definitely, I plan on letting the tank go on cruise control until I start seeing some major improvement. I'll try and get some pics up of the rocks and algae soon. It's not terribly bad but I'm just apprehensive about introducing any sensitive corals into the tank until the situation seems under control.

 

[Greenmaster]

One thing I would like to say about the "compressible" material under a rimmed tank. The biggest reason that it is said not to do it is because people want to trim the material right to the edge of the tank. On the inside of the tank you have some that is not compressed applying pressure out (away from the center), because there is no uncompressed material on the outside of the tank pushing in (to equalize it) you have unnecessary stress trying to brake the tank apart.

 

[solitude127]

Any more FTS?

 

[drummereef]

Any more FTS?

I'll will get one up this weekend. I just picked up some dark blue poster board today to do some background color testing (again) so I'll post the pics with that up there. I looked at it tonight and it really looked good. I actually like it better than jet black. Somehow the lights made it look even darker and gave it a slight fade effect. Stay posted and I'll take a couple shots.

 

[drummereef]

UPDATE:


Tested Nitrates again tonight and the yellow was the lightest it's been so I'm assuming the ecoBAK is still doing it's thing. I'd say NO3 was as close to 0 as you can get on my API test kit.


In other news... Going to do a water change tomorrow so I tested my makeup water for calcium. It tested 325 ppm!!! :eek2: I've been using Instant Ocean salt for years now and it's never tested lower than 380 ppm. I'm shocked! Can anyone test a new batch of IO and let me know what the Ca is reading for you?

***This was a relatively new bucket of IO purchased at my local PetSmart (about a month ago), tested with a Salifert Ca kit (twice).

 

[canyousee]

Brett I buy my IO in the 50 gallon bags I had some made up for a water change today it tested 355 ppm using a Salifert test kit.