Mike, if you have a bare concrete floor, go with the two part epoxy first to separate your tank from the cold concrete, second water will not soak into the concrete, third it is much easier to clean... I am doing the same thing in my doghouse with Rustoleum two parts epoxy... Will let you know how it go...
Dudester’s 450g corner in-wall and tank room – help with design
- Thread starter Dudester
- Start date
Dudester
Premium Member
ConcreteReefer - With a name like that, how can I not listen to you 
. Thanks for all of your suggestions! Good, I was heavily leaning toward finishing the floor, I just needed confirmation from those in the know. Now that I'm set on finishing it, do you stick to your recommendation of the 2-part, or should I go with the material used to cover garage concrete?
The floor drain looks like crap in the photo because it was a repair. When I visited the site I noticed that the drain was positioned under where the tank will sit. So I had them move the drain to the center of the room where it was drawn in the plan. I'm glad I caught it when I did. So they moved it but it hasn't been finished out. I considered having the entire floor pitched toward the drain, but I changed my mind and wanted the floor of the room to be flat (level) to make it easier for me when installing the tank, frag tank, and other equipment. If there's a small spill I can squeegie it to the drain, and the 1 and 1/2" floor recession should be enough to contain a larger event, right? I do think it would be smart to pitch just a few inches around the drain, though, is that what you meant? I'll call the super directly.
I wrote green board earlier, but I'm actually going with paperless material called "Paperless Densarmor." My super told me it's better than green board - do you agree? Why do you suggest a blend of green board and paperless drywall?
And lastly, what's a "poop fan?" I originally had a dehumidifyer in the plan, just a free standing unit sitting in the tank room, but my super felt that would just suck the tank dry (that's an exaggeration, of course) and that it wasn't necessary. He felt that as long as the tank room has a fresh air source and a ceiling vent, that would be sufficient to control humidity. He may be right, but maybe I should install a fan at the vent to encourage air flow out?
adammreef - Google SketchUp it is!
jjackson Thanks dude :thumbsup:
Jar*Head - See above. I'll be following your thread to see your progress. Good luck with your move.
. Thanks for all of your suggestions! Good, I was heavily leaning toward finishing the floor, I just needed confirmation from those in the know. Now that I'm set on finishing it, do you stick to your recommendation of the 2-part, or should I go with the material used to cover garage concrete?The floor drain looks like crap in the photo because it was a repair. When I visited the site I noticed that the drain was positioned under where the tank will sit. So I had them move the drain to the center of the room where it was drawn in the plan. I'm glad I caught it when I did. So they moved it but it hasn't been finished out. I considered having the entire floor pitched toward the drain, but I changed my mind and wanted the floor of the room to be flat (level) to make it easier for me when installing the tank, frag tank, and other equipment. If there's a small spill I can squeegie it to the drain, and the 1 and 1/2" floor recession should be enough to contain a larger event, right? I do think it would be smart to pitch just a few inches around the drain, though, is that what you meant? I'll call the super directly.
I wrote green board earlier, but I'm actually going with paperless material called "Paperless Densarmor." My super told me it's better than green board - do you agree? Why do you suggest a blend of green board and paperless drywall?
And lastly, what's a "poop fan?" I originally had a dehumidifyer in the plan, just a free standing unit sitting in the tank room, but my super felt that would just suck the tank dry (that's an exaggeration, of course) and that it wasn't necessary. He felt that as long as the tank room has a fresh air source and a ceiling vent, that would be sufficient to control humidity. He may be right, but maybe I should install a fan at the vent to encourage air flow out?
adammreef - Google SketchUp it is!
jjackson Thanks dude :thumbsup:
Jar*Head - See above. I'll be following your thread to see your progress. Good luck with your move.
A friend had some issues with humidity in his fishroom even with the standard bathroom fan. Another reefing friend put an air exchanger mechanism in the tank room to recirculate that air with the outside/rest of the house to compensate for the high humidity. The hvac guys should know best, but tell them it's like an indoor hot tub in the winter (exageration, but they get the point)
ConcreteReefer
In Memoriam
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12273432#post12273432 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Dudester
ConcreteReefer - With a name like that, how can I not listen to you
The floor drain looks like crap in the photo because it was a repair. When I visited the site I noticed that the drain was positioned under where the tank will sit. So I had them move the drain to the center of the room where it was drawn in the plan. I'm glad I caught it when I did. So they moved it but it hasn't been finished out. I considered having the entire floor pitched toward the drain, but I changed my mind and wanted the floor of the room to be flat (level) to make it easier for me when installing the tank, frag tank, and other equipment. If there's a small spill I can squeegie it to the drain, and the 1 and 1/2" floor recession should be enough to contain a larger event, right? I do think it would be smart to pitch just a few inches around the drain, though, is that what you meant? I'll call the super directly.
I wrote green board earlier, but I'm actually going with paperless material called "Paperless Densarmor." My super told me it's better than green board - do you agree? Why do you suggest a blend of green board and paperless drywall?
And lastly, what's a "poop fan?" I originally had a dehumidifyer in the plan, just a free standing unit sitting in the tank room, but my super felt that would just suck the tank dry (that's an exaggeration, of course) and that it wasn't necessary. He felt that as long as the tank room has a fresh air source and a ceiling vent, that would be sufficient to control humidity. He may be right, but maybe I should install a fan at the vent to encourage air flow out?
adammreef - Google SketchUp it is!
jjackson Thanks dude :thumbsup:
Jar*Head - See above. I'll be following your thread to see your progress. Good luck with your move.
1-I use 2-part for garage floors every once in a while- You have to make sure you prep the floor correctly because any imperfection will stand out. Also, epoxy coatings are slippery when wet. There is a product called "Sharksgrip" that is added to the 2-part mixture, its basically sand that gives the floor a texture to prevent slips.
2-Densarmor is "paperless" drywall, They are both good products, I wouldn't say one is better than the other- Neither is completely mold-proof. Doing the whole room in Densarmor is fine, just be sure to prime w/Killz.
3-Poop fan- Just slang for a bathroom fan, Get one with humidity sensing so you don't have to turn it on/off manually. Here's a link to a couple-
http://www.kitchensource.com/bathroom-fans/humidity.htm
and the one I like-
http://www.kitchensource.com/bathroom-fans/br-hs90120l.htm
ConcreteReefer
In Memoriam
As far as the humidity issue goes- Make sure the room has supply & return ducting, That and Humidity sensing fans should be sufficient. Just remember to Killz everything in that room!
Dudester
Premium Member
Thanks for the tips, ConcreteReefer. The room definitely has supply and return ducting. My super is going to check with the HVAC guy to make sure the A/C unit will be able to condition the extra humidity.
Chrisrush - Thanks for following, I'm sure you'll come up with some good advice eventually.
Chrisrush - Thanks for following, I'm sure you'll come up with some good advice eventually.
melev
Well-known member
Glad I found your new thread early. Here are all of my thoughts, which you can go with or disregard as you see fit.
<b>Circulation:</b> I hate anything in my tank, which is why I use the VorTech pumps. You know that -- I don't want to see Tunze Waveboxes either. Jar*Head apparently suggested the same thing I'm thinking, two external boxes flanking the overflow box at one end. Insert each Wavebox in there and press the pump through the hole so you don't see anything from the front or the end. If the plan changes some day, you can close and seal those holes with a bulkhead and threaded plug, and then have two dry boxes - maybe to put the motor side of VorTech pumps, for example. The boxes won't affect the look of your tank even if they are empty. You could even toss wet nets, sponges and scrapers inside, always within reach / to drip dry.
If the tank is too thick for the VorTechs, you might see if the guys at EcoTech could create yours specifically for the thicker tank. Since it is a glass tank, there's nothing to worry about other than the strength of the magnet. These could be placed along the back wall to create some cross flow (in various random modes) against your closed loop pattern. That would provide constant change while not being an eye sore. Wavy Seas are fine as they are out of sight, but again you have a pump visible if you have a Tunze spinning back and forth. With your modern look and the style of your tank, hiding pumps would be my choice. External boxes glued to the tank to hide Tunze pumps would be my choice. I'm not anti Tunze, just anti pumps in general.
Lighting: You have plenty of choices. Luminarcs are fine and with such a wide tank, you'll want the huge ones. I'm currently using the LuminBrites which I think would work well too. The Minis are just too small for a tank that is 48" front to back, even with T5 lighting. With the LuminBrites, you can lift them way up (16 to 18" off the water), and still get a good spread with those 400 watters. The T5 bulbs will fill in the rest. If you have the MH up high, you may only need to move the T5 rack out to get more room to play.
Ventilation: The home A/C system should not be pumped into that room. That air can definitely flow backwards through the ductwork, drawing moist salty air into your central system which will cause damage to the coils and mold in the ductwork. Rather, having vent fans sucking hot air out will draw in cool air from the rest of the home.
If you plan to have a separate system just for this room or this room and a garage, that's different.
If you want a dehumidifier in the room, have it built into one wall so it doesn't take up space. The drain should pour into your utility sink or nearby drain so you don't have to constantly drain the small pan full of water in the unit.
The vent fans are rated in Sones. The lower the number, the less you hear. Mine is silent (1.0 Sones), unless my ear is 1" from the grilled intake. I love it. Your room and huge tank may require two or three of them, but that's better than listening to a loud one with better CFM movement, imho. You can hook them up to a humidistat if you like. I have not with mine, and it runs all the time. I did turn mine off at night during the winter months because the fishroom got so cold the heaters were running all night to keep the tank at my set point. The vent fans should push the air out of your house, not just into the attic area, or you may end up with mold issues.
If the room has any windows at all, that will allow you to open it and a door to provide some fresh air to your tank on occasion. Or you might set up a different type of vent to draw in fresh air from outside, piping that into the fishroom. It could be on a timer, perhaps.
Chiller: The chiller will probably need to be 1 HP, as I was told I needed a 1/2 HP for my 330g of water. Perhaps the chiller and the dehumidifier could both be in a cubby or closet, with a vent fan to suck the heat out that both will give off. I just spent some time talking with TECO at MAX over the weekend. They are based in Dallas, so I plan to learn more about their product line. Maybe they have the perfect one for your tank.
Flooring: Slightly sloped would be best to get that water to channel toward the drain. Standing puddles will drive you crazy. Even if you have some type of slits in an appealing pattern that the water gravitates into and to the drain would be good.
The finish can have a sandy grain added to give you traction, something valuable in a wet area. Sealing the floor will prevent its decay as saltwater is a corrosive. My old return pump used to drip in one spot, never enough to bother me. I put a towel there to catch the drips instead of fixing it, and ignored it forever. One day I was down there working on the pump and plumbing, resolving the drip. The concrete in that patch is brittle, flaking, and sounds a tad hollow when I tap on it lightly.
A walkboard that you can access to work in your tank from behind would be nice. Remember the tank Fudge has? That would be perfect! Have it built with permanent steps to get up there. It would let you reach your lighting easily too.
Walls: Plywood everywhere sounds great. A work space to do water tests under a 6500K bulb would be nice. A sink to wash your skimmer out would be great. A spot to place your saltwater mixing container would be ideal, as it would be near the same temperature and pH as the tank itself.
Electrical: Perfect! GFCI circuits and at least one standard non-GFCI (for the main return pump) would be my suggestion. Wire the room for computer access so you can tie your tank into your internet access and check on your tank remotely. If you add a phone line in there, you can take calls or even use it to maybe have a gizmo call your cellphone if the tank has a problem.
I don't know how the speakers will hold up in there, but I like it. I guess you could buy an extra one or two as backups.
<b>Circulation:</b> I hate anything in my tank, which is why I use the VorTech pumps. You know that -- I don't want to see Tunze Waveboxes either. Jar*Head apparently suggested the same thing I'm thinking, two external boxes flanking the overflow box at one end. Insert each Wavebox in there and press the pump through the hole so you don't see anything from the front or the end. If the plan changes some day, you can close and seal those holes with a bulkhead and threaded plug, and then have two dry boxes - maybe to put the motor side of VorTech pumps, for example. The boxes won't affect the look of your tank even if they are empty. You could even toss wet nets, sponges and scrapers inside, always within reach / to drip dry.
If the tank is too thick for the VorTechs, you might see if the guys at EcoTech could create yours specifically for the thicker tank. Since it is a glass tank, there's nothing to worry about other than the strength of the magnet. These could be placed along the back wall to create some cross flow (in various random modes) against your closed loop pattern. That would provide constant change while not being an eye sore. Wavy Seas are fine as they are out of sight, but again you have a pump visible if you have a Tunze spinning back and forth. With your modern look and the style of your tank, hiding pumps would be my choice. External boxes glued to the tank to hide Tunze pumps would be my choice. I'm not anti Tunze, just anti pumps in general.
Lighting: You have plenty of choices. Luminarcs are fine and with such a wide tank, you'll want the huge ones. I'm currently using the LuminBrites which I think would work well too. The Minis are just too small for a tank that is 48" front to back, even with T5 lighting. With the LuminBrites, you can lift them way up (16 to 18" off the water), and still get a good spread with those 400 watters. The T5 bulbs will fill in the rest. If you have the MH up high, you may only need to move the T5 rack out to get more room to play.
Ventilation: The home A/C system should not be pumped into that room. That air can definitely flow backwards through the ductwork, drawing moist salty air into your central system which will cause damage to the coils and mold in the ductwork. Rather, having vent fans sucking hot air out will draw in cool air from the rest of the home.
If you plan to have a separate system just for this room or this room and a garage, that's different.
If you want a dehumidifier in the room, have it built into one wall so it doesn't take up space. The drain should pour into your utility sink or nearby drain so you don't have to constantly drain the small pan full of water in the unit.
The vent fans are rated in Sones. The lower the number, the less you hear. Mine is silent (1.0 Sones), unless my ear is 1" from the grilled intake. I love it. Your room and huge tank may require two or three of them, but that's better than listening to a loud one with better CFM movement, imho. You can hook them up to a humidistat if you like. I have not with mine, and it runs all the time. I did turn mine off at night during the winter months because the fishroom got so cold the heaters were running all night to keep the tank at my set point. The vent fans should push the air out of your house, not just into the attic area, or you may end up with mold issues.
If the room has any windows at all, that will allow you to open it and a door to provide some fresh air to your tank on occasion. Or you might set up a different type of vent to draw in fresh air from outside, piping that into the fishroom. It could be on a timer, perhaps.
Chiller: The chiller will probably need to be 1 HP, as I was told I needed a 1/2 HP for my 330g of water. Perhaps the chiller and the dehumidifier could both be in a cubby or closet, with a vent fan to suck the heat out that both will give off. I just spent some time talking with TECO at MAX over the weekend. They are based in Dallas, so I plan to learn more about their product line. Maybe they have the perfect one for your tank.
Flooring: Slightly sloped would be best to get that water to channel toward the drain. Standing puddles will drive you crazy. Even if you have some type of slits in an appealing pattern that the water gravitates into and to the drain would be good.
The finish can have a sandy grain added to give you traction, something valuable in a wet area. Sealing the floor will prevent its decay as saltwater is a corrosive. My old return pump used to drip in one spot, never enough to bother me. I put a towel there to catch the drips instead of fixing it, and ignored it forever. One day I was down there working on the pump and plumbing, resolving the drip. The concrete in that patch is brittle, flaking, and sounds a tad hollow when I tap on it lightly.
A walkboard that you can access to work in your tank from behind would be nice. Remember the tank Fudge has? That would be perfect! Have it built with permanent steps to get up there. It would let you reach your lighting easily too.
Walls: Plywood everywhere sounds great. A work space to do water tests under a 6500K bulb would be nice. A sink to wash your skimmer out would be great. A spot to place your saltwater mixing container would be ideal, as it would be near the same temperature and pH as the tank itself.
Electrical: Perfect! GFCI circuits and at least one standard non-GFCI (for the main return pump) would be my suggestion. Wire the room for computer access so you can tie your tank into your internet access and check on your tank remotely. If you add a phone line in there, you can take calls or even use it to maybe have a gizmo call your cellphone if the tank has a problem.
I don't know how the speakers will hold up in there, but I like it. I guess you could buy an extra one or two as backups.
Beenalongtime79
New member
Mike,
Sick setup. AGE is probably the best american manufacturer of custom aquariums. Very NICE! Looks like you are going all out on this one.
It's going to be showstopper in a few years. One question, did you do all of those CAD drawings yourself or was that done by AGE?
Do your kids know that you are spending their future college fund on this project?
Peace,
John
Sick setup. AGE is probably the best american manufacturer of custom aquariums. Very NICE! Looks like you are going all out on this one.
It's going to be showstopper in a few years. One question, did you do all of those CAD drawings yourself or was that done by AGE?
Do your kids know that you are spending their future college fund on this project?
Peace,
John
Bax
Premium Member
Dude
This is going to be a real Masterpiece of a system!
You have the right dimensions, viewing situation and tank manufacturer to enjoy the best of all types of flow. The interplay between well designed CLs, Tunze, and VorTech can really be taken advantage of here. With two walls in the fish room and the AGE PVC bottom you are golden.
I'd hide the CL drains under aquascape in the bottom of the tank. For pluming simplicity plum one back through the floor and one over the top.
Having boxes on either side of the overflow is just a great idea, you then have the option of them as wave boxes or running several Tunzes, even a four pack with them all out of site (Like Mantis' tank). Along the back side The Tunzes on WaveySeas is a great idea for the top edge, but don't pass up a pair of wireless VorTechs. They can be placed anywhere on the back panel to put major flow where you want it. All the interaction would just be SICK! And, still allow for a lot of fine tuning as the your aquascape is put in place and your corals grow out.
What ever you choose, this baby is over the top.
This is going to be a real Masterpiece of a system!
You have the right dimensions, viewing situation and tank manufacturer to enjoy the best of all types of flow. The interplay between well designed CLs, Tunze, and VorTech can really be taken advantage of here. With two walls in the fish room and the AGE PVC bottom you are golden.
I'd hide the CL drains under aquascape in the bottom of the tank. For pluming simplicity plum one back through the floor and one over the top.
Having boxes on either side of the overflow is just a great idea, you then have the option of them as wave boxes or running several Tunzes, even a four pack with them all out of site (Like Mantis' tank). Along the back side The Tunzes on WaveySeas is a great idea for the top edge, but don't pass up a pair of wireless VorTechs. They can be placed anywhere on the back panel to put major flow where you want it. All the interaction would just be SICK! And, still allow for a lot of fine tuning as the your aquascape is put in place and your corals grow out.
What ever you choose, this baby is over the top.
ConcreteReefer
In Memoriam
Dudester- I'm T-boning your thread for a sec
Jar-head:
I've never used the rustoleum 2-part, If you have access to Sherwin Williams, just go ahead & buy the H&C 2-part. Matter of fact, They have a kit that includes flakes & sharksgrip-
btw: You do not need to seal the epoxy with clearcoat!
Make sure you prep your floor correctly, Use a 10-1 mixture of muriatic acid & water to clean, then use some baking soda & water to neutralize the acid (do not skip this step- critical for the bond) If you have any cracks/holes, Use a small diamond-blade saw to "open them up" and fill with expanding crack sealer. After crack sealer has cured scrape off excess & start painting!
Have Fun!
link
http://www.hcconcrete.com/product/shieldCrete.asp
Jar-head:
I've never used the rustoleum 2-part, If you have access to Sherwin Williams, just go ahead & buy the H&C 2-part. Matter of fact, They have a kit that includes flakes & sharksgrip-
btw: You do not need to seal the epoxy with clearcoat!
Make sure you prep your floor correctly, Use a 10-1 mixture of muriatic acid & water to clean, then use some baking soda & water to neutralize the acid (do not skip this step- critical for the bond) If you have any cracks/holes, Use a small diamond-blade saw to "open them up" and fill with expanding crack sealer. After crack sealer has cured scrape off excess & start painting!
Have Fun!
link
http://www.hcconcrete.com/product/shieldCrete.asp
Last edited:
Dudester
Premium Member
melev - Thanks for your thoughtful reply, Marc. I'm in a bit of a time crunch but I'll reply to some of what you wrote. I've taken the rest to heart.
Circulation - The vortecs are a nice thought, and someone else put them on my radar a little earlier as well. Definitely in the mix, good thought. I'm a little concerned about the pump falling off the magnet, as this has been reported by several people, but maybe I could get a stronger magnet. As for the external waveboxes, yes it's a great thought and I had originally planned for this. But if you look at the diagram again, you'll see a column beside the overflow box. This is a structural column in the house and there's no way it will be able to move or be hollowed out. I could still do 1 external overflow box, but the one in front would still be visible so that sort of defeats the purpose. And I knew you would mention using the boxes as little cubbies in the future, I just knew you would . Also, I don't want too many external boxes on this tank. Remember, I'm planning this tank to sit in its place for more than 15 years, not 1 year like my current tank 
. The more holes and seams, the more opportunities for a leak.
I forwarded your comments (and other peoples' comments) to my super regarding ventilation - let's see what he comes up with.
I wanted the floor to be as level as possible to simplify installing the tank, frag tank, and other equipment. There will be a slight pitch in the center of the room to collect the water. I really don't expect this to be a wet room. The drain is there to avoid a catastrophe in the event of a large spill. Normal small spills that are inevitable will be handled with a towel, just as if the tank were in my living room. I'm not one to let a leak or puddle go unfixed.
Great point about the walk board, and I already have a solution. Even for my current tank I need something to stand on to work inside, especially when reaching the bottom. For those of you who don't know, I'm a bit vertically challenged. I have a platform ladder that's about 4' long and, I don't know, about 20" high. I use it all the time when working on my tank, and I plan to use it on the next tank as well. If the tank room were wider I would have a permanent platform, but as I have the room laid out now, there will only be about 2 and 1/2 feet between the back of the tank and the front of the frag tank, so there's no space for a permanent platform. I really wish the tank room was larger, but oh well. I'm not familiar with Fudge's tank but I'll look it up.
The tank room will hopefully accomodate everything I'll need for the tank. There's a utility sink there already, and space for RO/DI storage, salt water mixing, and I've even planned a fragging station. Basically, I never want to have to go out to the garage again for materials, or carry another bucket. Once I get the tank details hammered out I'll presnet a tank room layout that we can tweak. Oh, and the room will be wired for telephone and internet so my Aquatronica can scream at me when there's a problem.
rufio173 - John, Thanks for the nice comments. I created the SketchUp drawings myself. Fortunately my daughter likes the tank as much as I do, so I don't think she'll mind me spending the cash. She'll just have to work hard and earn a scholarship.
Bax - Great thoughts, dude. I like the idea of a 2nd CL passing over the top. So it is decided - I'll drill the tank for one CL, add some powerheads (well hidden, of course, Marc), and if I need more I can always add another CL over the top. Awesome!
ConcreteReefer - I love how the phrase "T-boning" has been coined. Terry, you've gotta be proud!
All right, that's it for now. I'll be gone for the next 5 days but please keep the conversation going. This has been so helpful and I really appreciate everyone's input.
Circulation - The vortecs are a nice thought, and someone else put them on my radar a little earlier as well. Definitely in the mix, good thought. I'm a little concerned about the pump falling off the magnet, as this has been reported by several people, but maybe I could get a stronger magnet. As for the external waveboxes, yes it's a great thought and I had originally planned for this. But if you look at the diagram again, you'll see a column beside the overflow box. This is a structural column in the house and there's no way it will be able to move or be hollowed out. I could still do 1 external overflow box, but the one in front would still be visible so that sort of defeats the purpose. And I knew you would mention using the boxes as little cubbies in the future, I just knew you would
. Also, I don't want too many external boxes on this tank. Remember, I'm planning this tank to sit in its place for more than 15 years, not 1 year like my current tank . The more holes and seams, the more opportunities for a leak.I forwarded your comments (and other peoples' comments) to my super regarding ventilation - let's see what he comes up with.
I wanted the floor to be as level as possible to simplify installing the tank, frag tank, and other equipment. There will be a slight pitch in the center of the room to collect the water. I really don't expect this to be a wet room. The drain is there to avoid a catastrophe in the event of a large spill. Normal small spills that are inevitable will be handled with a towel, just as if the tank were in my living room. I'm not one to let a leak or puddle go unfixed.
Great point about the walk board, and I already have a solution. Even for my current tank I need something to stand on to work inside, especially when reaching the bottom. For those of you who don't know, I'm a bit vertically challenged. I have a platform ladder that's about 4' long and, I don't know, about 20" high. I use it all the time when working on my tank, and I plan to use it on the next tank as well. If the tank room were wider I would have a permanent platform, but as I have the room laid out now, there will only be about 2 and 1/2 feet between the back of the tank and the front of the frag tank, so there's no space for a permanent platform. I really wish the tank room was larger, but oh well. I'm not familiar with Fudge's tank but I'll look it up.
The tank room will hopefully accomodate everything I'll need for the tank. There's a utility sink there already, and space for RO/DI storage, salt water mixing, and I've even planned a fragging station. Basically, I never want to have to go out to the garage again for materials, or carry another bucket. Once I get the tank details hammered out I'll presnet a tank room layout that we can tweak. Oh, and the room will be wired for telephone and internet so my Aquatronica can scream at me when there's a problem.
rufio173 - John, Thanks for the nice comments. I created the SketchUp drawings myself. Fortunately my daughter likes the tank as much as I do, so I don't think she'll mind me spending the cash. She'll just have to work hard and earn a scholarship.
Bax - Great thoughts, dude. I like the idea of a 2nd CL passing over the top. So it is decided - I'll drill the tank for one CL, add some powerheads (well hidden, of course, Marc), and if I need more I can always add another CL over the top. Awesome!
ConcreteReefer - I love how the phrase "T-boning" has been coined. Terry, you've gotta be proud!
All right, that's it for now. I'll be gone for the next 5 days but please keep the conversation going. This has been so helpful and I really appreciate everyone's input.
ConcreteReefer
In Memoriam
Where is the crew? We gotta split this thread before the "dude" gets back...
T-bone, Gather your Troops
:strooper:
T-bone, Gather your Troops
:strooper:
bleedingthought
New member
Man, looking great so far! It's awesome that you're able to plan all of this before your house is built. Every reefer's dream-come-true!
Dudester
Premium Member
bleedingthought and rickyb - Thanks guys, much appreciated!
OK, I just got back from The Masters, what an incredible experience and truly one of the most beautiful places on earth. We wandered around for the practice round to experience the whole course, then basically parked ourselves at the 16th green/17th tee box on Thursday. Not only could we see the entire par 3 16th and the tee shot on 17, but close behind us were the concessions and a restroom. We were about 10 feet from the golfers as they teed off on 17. Just an amazing, life-changing experience. I'm still jacked up! But now it's time to get this tank planned, so here we go again.
Here's one change that has occurred; the column along the overflow side of the tank is actually not a structural column, so this opens up some options. I can revive the external waveboxes flanking the overflow, or I can cut some of that column out so that I can place a magnet outside of the tank to hold the wavebox in place. I think now I'm actually favoring going external, but I'll have to confirm that they can cut that much away. The only negative of going external would be the issue of the holes in the glass in the future, but I think that has been addressed already. I'm really excited about the possibility of cutting some of that column away, as this could also allow me to make a longer overflow box.
OK, I really need some help here, since the house is framed, sheathed, windows are in place, and the builder is ready to bring in the HVAC guys. He needs a final decision regarding tank room ventilation. They've never done an aquarium room before, so they have no first hand knowledge of what's best. I guess I should have screened for that when I selected the builder .
The best option, as I see it, is to install 2 exhausts with fans on humidistats that would vent the tank room air to the outside. The room would be cooled by treated air from the house that's sucked into the room, as opposed to a dedicated supply, as Melev suggested. If I go with this, would I still need a dehumidifyer in the room? If I could do without one I would much prefer that, since it would be one less device to deal with, and I don't want to increase tank water evaporation unnecessarily. Marc, I know you said I should not provide a dedicated supply of cool air to the room due to concerns for back flow of air, but I'm worried that the tank room will become extremely hot without some direct source of cooled air? I guess I just need some reassurance that this would be fine.
OK, I just got back from The Masters, what an incredible experience and truly one of the most beautiful places on earth. We wandered around for the practice round to experience the whole course, then basically parked ourselves at the 16th green/17th tee box on Thursday. Not only could we see the entire par 3 16th and the tee shot on 17, but close behind us were the concessions and a restroom. We were about 10 feet from the golfers as they teed off on 17. Just an amazing, life-changing experience. I'm still jacked up! But now it's time to get this tank planned, so here we go again.
Here's one change that has occurred; the column along the overflow side of the tank is actually not a structural column, so this opens up some options. I can revive the external waveboxes flanking the overflow, or I can cut some of that column out so that I can place a magnet outside of the tank to hold the wavebox in place. I think now I'm actually favoring going external, but I'll have to confirm that they can cut that much away. The only negative of going external would be the issue of the holes in the glass in the future, but I think that has been addressed already. I'm really excited about the possibility of cutting some of that column away, as this could also allow me to make a longer overflow box.
OK, I really need some help here, since the house is framed, sheathed, windows are in place, and the builder is ready to bring in the HVAC guys. He needs a final decision regarding tank room ventilation. They've never done an aquarium room before, so they have no first hand knowledge of what's best. I guess I should have screened for that when I selected the builder
.The best option, as I see it, is to install 2 exhausts with fans on humidistats that would vent the tank room air to the outside. The room would be cooled by treated air from the house that's sucked into the room, as opposed to a dedicated supply, as Melev suggested. If I go with this, would I still need a dehumidifyer in the room? If I could do without one I would much prefer that, since it would be one less device to deal with, and I don't want to increase tank water evaporation unnecessarily. Marc, I know you said I should not provide a dedicated supply of cool air to the room due to concerns for back flow of air, but I'm worried that the tank room will become extremely hot without some direct source of cooled air? I guess I just need some reassurance that this would be fine.
melev
Well-known member
Since you have vent fans pulling hot air out of the room as dictated by humidistats (and possibly a thermostat?), the cool air would come in from your home.
A dehumidifier would add heat to the room, plus you have to deal with the water collecting in the unit or plumb it so you don't have to think about it.
Since you have front and side access to the tank, getting fresh air in is easy by opening some cabinet doors and the main door to get in the room. If it is an especially bad day (mid to late summer) a fan blowing house air into the fishroom would be a consideration. If the ceilings are somewhat tall (I don't recall that mentioned), the heat would gather up above your head and away from the tank. The vent fans will pull that out.
A dehumidifier would add heat to the room, plus you have to deal with the water collecting in the unit or plumb it so you don't have to think about it.
Since you have front and side access to the tank, getting fresh air in is easy by opening some cabinet doors and the main door to get in the room. If it is an especially bad day (mid to late summer) a fan blowing house air into the fishroom would be a consideration. If the ceilings are somewhat tall (I don't recall that mentioned), the heat would gather up above your head and away from the tank. The vent fans will pull that out.
Similar threads
