Dudester’s 450g corner in-wall and tank room – help with design

[tbone28]

just giving an option which would still allow for the same viewing area. sorry dude.

 

[Dudester]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12387792#post12387792 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Jar*Head
How about 2 power head at the same panel where your overflow box and waveboxes at? as a matter of fact you can put the PH where your ext wavebox on the inside.... The 6301 not much bigger than the 6101 except the nozzle slightly larger.

I'm thinking along the same lines as you, Steve. Check out this diagram. I'll have AGE put a couple keyholes in the eurobrace to allow for cord exits should the need for powerheads arise. Check this out.

You might also notice a eurobrace cutout for the Wavy Seas, as well as another 1" hole in the bottom. That will be for the chiller's closed loop. I also added another 1" drain inside the overflow box, for whatever expansion I may add in the future.

Terry, I like the way you think, but I can't increase the overall length of the tank by even an inch. I'm confined by columns. If the columns could move, I'd have a 10' tank. Mmmmm, 10 foot tank.

 

[tbone28]

I tried Didn't know you're maxed out on the length. In that case, I like Steve's idea. Just listen to the Flowmaster from now on

 

[jnarowe]

There are other ways to deal with cords too, like installing a pipe coated with foam and rock to run your cords up and out. I used PVC pipe cut in half the long way and siliconed vertically along one edge in my FW planted tank. I run all the air hoses and cords up those, as well as have a heater hidden in one and they hinge open a bit on the silicone providing full access top-to-bottom.

 

[Jar*Head]

Mike, my Gov computer don't allow photobucket. I will check it out tonight. I am working on my tunze mount this weekend so you have better idea of what im talking about. I will drill two 1/4" hole into my wall by the ext overflow, thread it for 1/4" plastic screw the same screw people use on Ca reactor. The two screws will hold my tunze bracket tight into the back wall. I just order two tunze 6301 without the arm permanently glued into the motor so i could use the wavy sea tunze holder on it. Will keep you all updat.

 

[Jar*Head]

Mike, The keyholes look great. You should have it drill by the corner because if you decide to add Tunze stream, it will be by the corner flow along the side. I still think you should add 2 tunze 6201 or 6301. You can use the tunze magnet holder 1 inside the tank and the other is inside your ext wavebox. I know you are not very familiar with the stream, i could help with the setup as well as placement.

 

[Oldtimer]

Dudester-

How big is the hole for the Wavyseas? I didn't incorporate that into the design as I was thinking of just using the bracket, but I like the concept of incorporating it into the Eurobrace.

 

[Jar*Head]

Andy, the wavy sea using 1" PVC. I think he has the hole drill for 1" bulkhead ?

 

[Ed Reef]

I think Wavesea have an option of 3/4" and 1" - comes with both... I drilled mine for 1" PVC

 

[Dudester]

Thanks for answering that, Ed, as I didn't know. I was planning on purchasing the WavySea and sending it to AGE so they could have it on-site when drilling the hole.

 

[Jar*Head]

Mike, it is always good to have the hole slighly larger. I would send them the wavy sea and have them glue a piece of acrylic onto my euro brace so i can secure it properly. Don't just let your wavy sea sit on top of the brace and hoping it will stay. With the push of the 6101 your wavy sea need to be properly secured. JMO.

 

[Oldtimer]

The reason I asked was that I'm not sure if the part of the Wavyseas that rotates would directly contact the hole once the Wavyseas is installed. In other words, you don't want friction or binding between the rotating Wavyseas and the hole in the tank. But, I've never seen one of these in action, so the picture in my head may not be correct.

 

[GSMguy]

hey mike are the streams going to have enough room to rotate 360 degrees or 180 only?

 

[Dudester]

Jar*Head - Thanks, that's good information.

Oldtimer - I'm not sure either, that's why I'll send the unit to A.G.E. and let them come up with a plan for attaching the device if I can't think of something once I have it in my hands.

GSMguy - The Stream mounted on the WavySeas should be able to rotate about 220 degrees, but not 360.

 

[Ed Reef]

Dudester - check out Wave Sea plus if you are intending to push more volume

 

[Dudester]

Thanks for the tip Ed. I'm using the WavySea as my chiller return, so I don't expect too much flow from that at all. The biggest advantage to my using it is for the Tunze attachment. But I'll look into it more, and if the Plus model is built more solidly and might last longer, I'll probably go for it.

 

[Ed Reef]

Future upgrades for me for my flow is also WaveSea and Tunze attached for random flow....that's the add holes in my eurobracing for

 

[Dudester]

Time to revitalize this thread. The house is coming along nicely. The exterior is almost completed, and they just finished hanging the drywall inside. It's cool walking through and seeing rooms instead of being able to view across the whole interior.

I don't have any drywalled tank room pics yet, but I do have some updates since the last photo.

Here are some more framing shots. This first pic shows the family room, looking toward the fireplace. On the left are 3 arches, and the new tank is going to sit beneath the farthest arch to the right.

This next shot is looking at the tank room from the corner where the tank will sit.

You'll notice that the column that completes this arch is gone. It was cut away (since it's not a structural column) in preparation for the tank installation. Once the tank is in place, the column will be rebuilt, and the wall and cabinetry will be installed around the tank. I hope they don't scratch or otherwise damage the tank!! The vertical pipe in the center of the room is where the floor drain will be located.

This next image shows the curved wall that covers the back side of the tank room.

Here the tank room has been insulated and is ready for drywall. You can appreciate how the tank room is sunken below the rest of the 1st floor slab in the event of a catastrophy. You can also see several of the outlet locations, including the ones I put in the ceiling for the lights. Each of those ceiling outlets are on a separate circuit, so no two MH bulbs will share a circuit.

And just one more shot of the tank room, inulated and with the ceiling drywall in place outside the tank room. This photo also shows the dual ventilation ducts that are in the tank room. These will vent to the outside and both will have fans controlled with temperature and humidity sensors. You can also see quite nicely how that 2nd column was cut away.

 

[jnarowe]

that rocks. very nice.

 

[melev]

Mike, that looks so awesome. I called you up because I just felt no post could convey my admiration for your new palace! That is going to be one great house.

Regarding the tank's safety, once it is in place, why not cover the panels with 1/4" hardboard (we called it Masonite in school). That way it would be protected from any scratches. Once they are done, and I would emphasize how extra cautious you want them to be of course, remove the masonite and the 1/4" gap could be filled with caulk perhaps, or covered with trim.

I didn't realize you'd be at work when I called. With you posting pictures, I figured you were enjoying a leisurely Sunday at Casa Dudester.