T-5 COMBINATION?
T-5 COMBINATION?
OK, need to change the topic for a while (strategy to confuse them
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T-5 COMBINATION?
Any suggestions?? Based on my researched and advice from experience T-5 users, I come out with the following options:
Option 1 (front to back)
ATI Blue Plus+
ATI Aquablue Special
Giesemann Pure Actinic
ATI Pro Color
ATI Aquablue Special
ATI Blue Plus +
KZ Fiji Purple
Giesemann Pure Actinic
ATI Aquablue Special
ATI Blue Plus +
Should give me a 14K look I think, and a balance of good growth??
Option 2 (front to back)
ATI Blue Plus+
ATI Aquablue Special
ATI Blue Plus+
ATI Aquablue Special
ATI Blue Plus+
ATI Aquablue Special
ATI Blue Plus+
ATI Aquablue Special
ATI Blue Plus+
ATI Aquablue Special
Not sure if this option will be too blue (I think this is an 20K look??) but IWAN seem to have great results with this combination??
Option 3 (front to back)
ATI Blue Plus+
ATI Aquablue Special
Giesemann Pure Actinic
ATI Pro Color
ATI Aquablue Special
Giesemann Midday
KZ Fiji Purple
Giesemann Pure Actinic
ATI Aquablue Special
ATI Blue Plus +
For an overall 10-12K look. Basically almost the same as Option 1 but with a 6000k tube at the middle to balance the overall spectrum for growth and color
Summary:
So far, I like
Option 1 the best for the initial first year and once the growth is there I might change to
Option 2
But since my fixture will not be here any time soon, there is plenty of time to change my mind!!
Additional info on T-5 to share for those who are interested:
ATi:
- Sun Pro - daylight - 6000K
- Aquablue Special - blue/daylight - 12000K
- Blue Plus - blue/actinic - 20000K - 450n
- Actinic Blue - actinic - 420n
GE:
- Daylight - 6500K
Giesemann: PowerChrome:
- Midday Sun - 6000K
- Aqua Blue Plus - 60%Blue/40%Daylight - 11000K
- Actinic Plus - actinic/blue - 450n
- Pure Actinic - actinic - 420n
UV Lighting:
- AquaSun - daylight - 10000K
- Actinic White - 50%daylight/50%actinc - 12000K
- Super Actinic - actinic
Additional Notes and Observations copy from other forum:
- T5 Bulbs MUST uses a reflector per bulb for optimum operation. In addition, weekly cleaning of bulbs/reflectors is necessary if water splash occurs.
- When upgrading to T5, ALWAYS acclimate corals over a minimum of 1 week to prevent bleaching. Iodine supplements also help.
- ATi bulbs seem to light end-to-end better. Where as Giesemann leave about a 1.5†of black at both ends.
- Replace bulbs every 18 â€"œ 24 months if using standard ballast
- If using Ice Cap ballast, replace bulbs every 12 â€"œ 18 months
- Using Ice Cap ballast will over drive the bulbs producing more usable light.
- Significant reduction in heat (normal operation) over VHO lighting while producing higher PAR ratings.
- T5’s produce more PAR/sq in. than halides.
- Switching from halide to T5, corals might need to be moved around if they were use to a shade spot that is now lit up.
- For SPS tanks use more of the blue/actinic bulbs vs. straight actinic. For example, 4 bulb combo â€"œ 2 x Aquablue Special, 1 x Actinic Blue, 1 x Sun Pro
- For Soft /LPS tanks use more straight actinic. For example, 4 bulb combo â€"œ 2 x Aquablue Special, 2 x Actinic Blue. Swap a daylight bulb for one of the Aquablue Specials if you don’t like a lot of blue color.
- Tank depth vs. Number of Bulbs â€"œ 4 to 6 bulb fixture up to 18†depth, 6 to 8 bulb fixture 18 â€"œ 24†depth. A basic guideline is 1 tube for every 2.5†of depth for SPS and 1 tube for every 3†of depth for LPS/ Softies
- Suggestions about purchasing â€"œ If doing retro kit, go with IC ballast and reflectors.