Ed Reef's Shallow Crest Inspired ART

Interesting, when I had them I found this wouldn't kill them but mainly just helped make them more visible for manual removal. Glad it worked for you. Maybe I did something wrong? Although I did get rid of them.:hammer:


How did you get rid of them Greg? The old fashion 'see and scrape' method??
 
Hmm, you got me thinking... I dipped them and blew them off with a powerhead. I supposed they were easily blown off by the Iodine (stung/dead), but it could be that the Iodine had no additional effect at all ;) :hmm5:

Leonardo


Maybe the iodine makes them dizzy and easier to blow off :wildone:
 
Water parameter udpates…..

Water parameter udpates"¦..

And did my usual weekly 10% WC and check my water params as below:

"¢ Temperature "“ 26.5 degree C (light on for 2.5 hours)
"¢ Salinity Gravity "“ 35ppt (higher than last week 0.5)
"¢ pH "“ 8.26 (light on)
"¢ NO3 "“ 0.00 (Salifert Test kit "“ same as last week)
"¢ PO4 "“ 0.015 (D&D Test kit "“ up from last week 0.008)
"¢ dKH "“ 8.0 (API test kit "“ same as last week)
"¢ dKH "“ 8.0 (Elos test kit "“ same as last week)
"¢ Ca "“ 450 (Salifert test kit "“ up from last week 400)
"¢ Mg "“ 1350 (Salifert test kit "“ up from last week 1320)
"¢ Mg "“ 1300 (Elos test kit "“ same as last week)
"¢ Potassium "“ 400 to 410 range (Kz Test kit "“ same as last week)

Don't know why this week my Corals doesn't seem to take in the Calcium. Also curious as to why the sudden raise in my PO4?? Maybe it's time to check my TDS reading in my RO/DI unit??

Anyway, other params seems fine so will keep an eye on my PO4.
 
My halloween horror…

My halloween horror"¦

Not a very good Halloween for me as I suddenly notice bite marks on one of my stag and the base has started to STN on me"¦.

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This is taken with a flash when the lights are off to see if I can see anything"¦.

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Upon inspecting my other corals, there's also bite marks on my birdnest"¦

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Don't see any RB or AEFW or any eggs but gave em a dip anyway. This piece is right next to my problem montie so not sure if somehow the nudie are somewhat responsible for this.

My other corals all seems fine so far"¦"¦ I'm gonna dip all my corals this week to be on the safe side.


:wildone:
 
Hi Ed!

Sry to hear that!

We here in Austria have a frase for such happenings

"Wenn es kommt, dann aber richtig"

which means

"if it goes down, it REALLY goes down"

hope u find the surce!!


Flo
 
Ed, I think the birdsnest and the staghorn are suffering from different things.

Try to put some of the Acropora in fresh water for 10 minutes, and stirr. That way you are 100% sure if there are AEFW or not.
I found FW this way even after I dipped the piece in TMPCC before that! (and found nothing coming off) The sample will obviously die, but you can determine the problem fast.

On the other hand, the birdsnest. Can it be that it suffers from insufficient flow? Is it a wildcap piece? They tend to whiten and STN in the middle when the colony grows larger.

Good luck Ed, please take this signs serious and get rid of the cause (AEFW etc.). But I know you will.
I had my share before, that's why I quarantine all my corals for the new setup right now...

Leonardo
 
Ed, I think the birdsnest and the staghorn are suffering from different things.

Try to put some of the Acropora in fresh water for 10 minutes, and stirr. That way you are 100% sure if there are AEFW or not.
I found FW this way even after I dipped the piece in TMPCC before that! (and found nothing coming off) The sample will obviously die, but you can determine the problem fast.

On the other hand, the birdsnest. Can it be that it suffers from insufficient flow? Is it a wildcap piece? They tend to whiten and STN in the middle when the colony grows larger.

Good luck Ed, please take this signs serious and get rid of the cause (AEFW etc.). But I know you will.
I had my share before, that's why I quarantine all my corals for the new setup right now...

Leonardo

Thanks Leo - agree I also believe the Stag and Birdnest is two different issues....

Yes, the BN is a wild piece and could be from lack of flow... I dip all my corals last night but so far nothing is falling out :mad2:

I might just sacrificed that stag and do a FW dip to see if anything falls out to determine the cause...
 
Aren't these eggs in the middle of the red circle..? Can you make a close-up of this part?

edstaghorn.jpg


Leonardo


No, those are not eggs, it's actually some brown algae that's always been on the base of that stag.

Odd thing is I didn't add any new pieces in m tank for months now so not sure what's going on :sad1:
 
D-D High Sensitivity PO4 Testkit Product Review

D-D High Sensitivity PO4 Testkit Product Review

Since there is not much review on this testkit, thought I would do a product review to share with everyone my experience with this product.

A little background before the testkit review. These are taken from the testkit instructions:

What are Phosphates?
Phosphates are naturally occurring inorganic salts, and can therefore be introduced into the system from a wide range of sources, i.e. fresh water supplies, decomposition of uneaten food, fish waste, death of plants or animals, impure carbon, or contaminated gravel or rocks.

What is the effect of phosphate concentrations on my system?
Phosphates will significantly affect calcification of hard corals by inhibiting the deposition of strontium/

Phosphates are a fertilizer for nuisance algae when combined with other factors such as nitrates and strong lights.

In most aquatic situations the limiting nutrient ion in terms of algae growth is phosphate.

Phosphate limitation is therefore the single most effective means of algae control to the aquarist.

In marine systems, phosphate levels should always be maintained below 0.015mg/l. (expressed as Phosphorus "œP")


Disclaimer: This review is done without prejudice and it is the exact thoughts and opinions I have on the product as I'm using it. I do not wish to appear biased towards any brands of testkits on the market, and as I've said, it is more of a need to me, to be able to measure low levels of PO4 I have in my own marine tank (as an alternative to Hanna) as I strive to provide the best husbandry that I can for my tank.

So, with all those said and done, here's how it looks like:

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The testkit itself is not cheap and it comes in the following package:

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A colorimetric colour card with a graphic instruction behind for quick instruction reference.

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When I bought this testkit, they used to be able to purchase reagents refill but since this testkit is good for 100 tests, most distributors no longer sell refill kit anymore.


:rolleyes:
 
So how does it works?

So how does it works?

The test runs in this manner:

Step 1: Add 20ml of tank-water into the both the test-tubes or up to the line guide on each test-tubes. I find the line guide pretty accurate so now I just use the line guide to fill up the test-tube each time I test.

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NOTE: In order to ensure accuracy, the water must have a pH value range within 3-9, which is not a problem to most of us.

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Step 2: Shake the reagent P-1 for 10 seconds and add 10 drops of reagent P-1 to one of the test-tube of tank-water and mix.

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Notice that the container for the reagent comes with a unique tip-head that prevents spillage of the reagent while dripping.


Step 3: Add one spoonful of a powder substance (P2) into the test-tube. The spoon is part of the cover (smart move there) and shake vigorously until the reagent is completely dissolved.

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Step 4: Allow to set for 3 minutes. (reaction time)

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After the 3 minutes is completed, place the black sponge at the bottom of both test-tubes. The test-tube picture on the right is your tank water without any reagent added.



Step 5: Slide both test-tubes along the colour scale until the closest possible colour match is achieved between the two open test tubes when viewed from above.

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NOTE: The test-tube without any reagent is to go over the color scale.

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As you can see, the colour of the water tested has a slightly darker yellow/greenish hue. Any reading below 0.015mg/l has more of a yellowish hue, which makes it easier to differentiate the colours.

Result: As suspected, the levels of PO4 in my tank's water is not what I desired it to be...

After each use, it's advisable to rinse the test-tubes with distilled water (if possible) or RO/DI water. Alternatively you can use Sodium Hydroxyde solution (approx 0.4%) into the test-tubes and leave it to stand for an hour and then rinse with distilled water.


Conclusion:
With the colours on the colour chart, it is possible to actually know if the PO4 levels are too high, hence the need of a change in PO4 removal media. I'm still unable to tell the exact PO4 levels in my water as my eyes are still locked when trying to tell apart the intensity of the yellowish/greenish hues. But I do know that if it looks greenish, rather than yellowish, the PO4 levels is too high (I try to keep the PO4 levels below 0.03mg/l at all times). Previously on other testkits I've used, it shows me zero PO4 levels where my D&D shows me bluish levels.
Under 0.0 ppm: "œOPTIMUM"
Under 0.008 ppm: "œGOOD"
Under 0.015 ppm: "œACCEPTABLE IN SALT WATER"
Under 0.03 ppm: "œACCEPTABLE IN FRESH WATER"
From 0.03 ppm upwards: "œPhosphate present at levels that will act as fertilizer for Algae growth and will inhabit calcification"


Downside:
Cost "“ Not cheap as compare to the other PO4 testkits out there but can performs 100 tests. (I've not compared this cost with Hanna but I think it's a lot cheaper.)

Test-tubes - The test tubes are made of glass and they stand pretty tall with a small base. One have to be extremely careful when conducting the test not to knock-over the tubes as that may mean broken tubes and a high cost to have them replaced as you can't just buy the tubes.
 
Ed, well your tank is looking GREAT except for the few setbacks. Your tank is an inspiration to my future tank. :)

I am drooling @ your zoos... nice HK zoos..

Is the climate there in China humid or dry?
Well i reside in Singapore and its definitely humid and i wonder if your open top tank will post any issues to the furniture beside the tank maybe cause fugi to grow, rust and most importantly is it QUIET as its going to be placed in my BEDROOM.

Well i love your tank. going for a smaller version of Ed reef. 3.5 x 2.5 (or 3) x 18 inches.
 
Ed, well your tank is looking GREAT except for the few setbacks. Your tank is an inspiration to my future tank. :)

I am drooling @ your zoos... nice HK zoos..

Is the climate there in China humid or dry?
Well i reside in Singapore and its definitely humid and i wonder if your open top tank will post any issues to the furniture beside the tank maybe cause fugi to grow, rust and most importantly is it QUIET as its going to be placed in my BEDROOM.

Well i love your tank. going for a smaller version of Ed reef. 3.5 x 2.5 (or 3) x 18 inches.


Thanks Zorden - can wait to see how yours look like?? You gonna start a build thread soon??

The weather here during summer is pretty similar to Singapore. I used to work in Singapore for a year so I'm familiar there....:bounce1:

No issues on humidity so far...
 
I will try to take a close-up on that section....looks more like some sort of algae growth than AEFW eggs to me :(
 
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