EuroReef Club
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Sorry to but in to yalls thread but I have a question. I just bought a euro reef 8-2. Ive had it running for 4 days now and have only produced enough skimmate to cover the base of the collection cup. I have the riser tube extended as much as possible without it falling out. the only thing Ive can find in the pictures ive seen it looks like there is suppose to be a valve on the air intake hose. mine doesnt have anything. my question is, Is there suppose to be a valve and would it make a big difference? Also Ive tried finding a online manual for it to print out but havent been able to, Do any of you know where I can get one? thanks Bryan
DocG
Premium Member
The manual:
http://euro-reef.com/ermanual.shtml
The air valve is on the new line of skimmers that came out in November of 2005. These skimmers are named after the tank size they are recommended for eg. The CS8-2 became the CS180. The old line does not have these air valves.
http://euro-reef.com/ermanual.shtml
The air valve is on the new line of skimmers that came out in November of 2005. These skimmers are named after the tank size they are recommended for eg. The CS8-2 became the CS180. The old line does not have these air valves.
euroreef
Registered Member
Wow!! Lots of great comments!! I'll try to answer a few of the questions.
smj817- We are using the 1262 pump for our models RC180 and up until the 1264 comes out. We will most likely use that for our largest skimmers ( RC1000 and up). The Eheim NW pumps are due in Oct and we should have some test samples soon. The models slated for release are the 1250, 1260 and possibly the 1264. Once the 1250 is out, we will be using it on our RC80 for sure.
As far as the $1000 price tag... NO PROBLEM!! The RC180 will be well under $1000 and we hope to keep the RC250 really close!! We are not about to gouge people (not like we ever have or ever would) just because we are using Eheim pumps. No worries there!!
Hop- We hope it will be sooner, but we don't want to make a promise we can't keep
BELIEVE me, it will be worth the wait.
For those of you who have been looking at the copycat skimmers out there, here is the new map pricing for the RS Series:
RS80-$248
RS100-$288
RS135-$328
RS180-$438
RS250-$478
If you compare to those prices spec per spec you will see that the RS Series skimmers are an incredible value as they out perform ALL the competition, are vastly superior in materials, craftsmanship, durability, and ease of use and are also very close in price.
In addition, we are working on two (2) new RS Series models:
1) An RS50 which will be small enough to fit into most sumps baffle chambers that should street at around $178,
2) An RS350 which will be a 10" diameter skimmer at 24" tall with two (2) SP4 pumps. It will street at around $598. It will effectively replace the CS400 which is being taken off market along with the rest of the CS Series.
Please keep the comments and suggestions coming!! We love it!!
-ER
smj817- We are using the 1262 pump for our models RC180 and up until the 1264 comes out. We will most likely use that for our largest skimmers ( RC1000 and up). The Eheim NW pumps are due in Oct and we should have some test samples soon. The models slated for release are the 1250, 1260 and possibly the 1264. Once the 1250 is out, we will be using it on our RC80 for sure.
As far as the $1000 price tag... NO PROBLEM!! The RC180 will be well under $1000 and we hope to keep the RC250 really close!! We are not about to gouge people (not like we ever have or ever would) just because we are using Eheim pumps. No worries there!!
Hop- We hope it will be sooner, but we don't want to make a promise we can't keep
BELIEVE me, it will be worth the wait.For those of you who have been looking at the copycat skimmers out there, here is the new map pricing for the RS Series:
RS80-$248
RS100-$288
RS135-$328
RS180-$438
RS250-$478
If you compare to those prices spec per spec you will see that the RS Series skimmers are an incredible value as they out perform ALL the competition, are vastly superior in materials, craftsmanship, durability, and ease of use and are also very close in price.
In addition, we are working on two (2) new RS Series models:
1) An RS50 which will be small enough to fit into most sumps baffle chambers that should street at around $178,
2) An RS350 which will be a 10" diameter skimmer at 24" tall with two (2) SP4 pumps. It will street at around $598. It will effectively replace the CS400 which is being taken off market along with the rest of the CS Series.
Please keep the comments and suggestions coming!! We love it!!
-ER
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DocG
Premium Member
Euroreef,
This is exciting. I have a couple of questions.
1 - I ordered last week a RC750 last week and I can't wait to get it. I was told that it will take 4 weeks to be made. Since that will be well into July does that mean that I will have the new impellers on the pump?
2 - Looking at the stats on your technical specification page it looks like you modified your pumps to the degree that they perform as well if not better then the competitions Eheim driven pumps. What then can we expect with these new Eheim europumps compared to your existing pumps? (Can it get any better?)
3 - As a warranty registered customer will I be able to buy the new Ehiem pumps and stick them on my skimmer without a fitting problem?
Thanks
This is exciting. I have a couple of questions.
1 - I ordered last week a RC750 last week and I can't wait to get it. I was told that it will take 4 weeks to be made. Since that will be well into July does that mean that I will have the new impellers on the pump?
2 - Looking at the stats on your technical specification page it looks like you modified your pumps to the degree that they perform as well if not better then the competitions Eheim driven pumps. What then can we expect with these new Eheim europumps compared to your existing pumps? (Can it get any better?)
3 - As a warranty registered customer will I be able to buy the new Ehiem pumps and stick them on my skimmer without a fitting problem?
Thanks
OK, I'll wait patiently
Quick question that popped into my head.. Maybe it has been answered or even applied in the past.
Is it possible, let's say on the RC750 or 1000 to rig one of the pumps as a feed pump, still injecting air? Or would this cause problems? Just looking at efficiency per watt of electricity. I hope this makes sense, if not, I could maybe draw up the idea...
Quick question that popped into my head.. Maybe it has been answered or even applied in the past.
Is it possible, let's say on the RC750 or 1000 to rig one of the pumps as a feed pump, still injecting air? Or would this cause problems? Just looking at efficiency per watt of electricity. I hope this makes sense, if not, I could maybe draw up the idea...
Bemmer
Premium Member
May I digress back to current ER skimmers...
I need help understanding why my new RC500 is not producing a lot of skimmate. Perhaps it is me, perhaps it is my new setup or perhaps it is the skimmer. Help me figure this out, please.
Here are some pics.
Perhaps it is me:
The skimmer is sitting in the sump. The water level is at a constant 8". I have two filter socks on the drain pipes so they do not flush water too fast into the sump. The drain pipes are not pointing toward the Mag 5 pump that pulls the water into the skimmer. (I have read that can be a problem if the drain water is directed toward the intake pump for the skimmer). The RC pumps are installed correctly with the venturi valve open.
Perhaps it is my new system...
This skimmer is skimming for three tanks currently inline. The entire system has been up and running for 10 weeks now. They include a 225 gal reef tank, a 40 gal seahorse tank and a 55 gal coral tank. The tanks are only lightly stocked right now. The LR in the tanks had been "cooking" in tubs for almost six months before the LR was put in the tanks so there was no die-off on the rocks. They are fully cured.
Perhaps it is the skimmer...
Do I need the gate valve mod to get better skimmate? I have the bubbles set at half way up inside the collection cup tube. Where should I have the bubble level?
Ask me questions so I can better understand what I need to do and how to get this skimming more.
Thanks for your help.
I need help understanding why my new RC500 is not producing a lot of skimmate. Perhaps it is me, perhaps it is my new setup or perhaps it is the skimmer. Help me figure this out, please.
Here are some pics.
Perhaps it is me:
The skimmer is sitting in the sump. The water level is at a constant 8". I have two filter socks on the drain pipes so they do not flush water too fast into the sump. The drain pipes are not pointing toward the Mag 5 pump that pulls the water into the skimmer. (I have read that can be a problem if the drain water is directed toward the intake pump for the skimmer). The RC pumps are installed correctly with the venturi valve open.
Perhaps it is my new system...
This skimmer is skimming for three tanks currently inline. The entire system has been up and running for 10 weeks now. They include a 225 gal reef tank, a 40 gal seahorse tank and a 55 gal coral tank. The tanks are only lightly stocked right now. The LR in the tanks had been "cooking" in tubs for almost six months before the LR was put in the tanks so there was no die-off on the rocks. They are fully cured.
Perhaps it is the skimmer...
Do I need the gate valve mod to get better skimmate? I have the bubbles set at half way up inside the collection cup tube. Where should I have the bubble level?
Ask me questions so I can better understand what I need to do and how to get this skimming more.
Thanks for your help.
240-Reefer
New member
there is one thing I can tell you, My RC500 is running for 2 months now and it has just really took off. I clean my cup every night:rollface:
The only thing I did to it was take that stupid "easy to turn" ball valve off and through it in the garbage! do your self a favor and pick up the gate valve!!! it seems that the gate valve made the difference
240-Reefer
New member
Here you go I cleaned it last night
Bemmer
Premium Member
Gate Valve Mod
Gate Valve Mod
Thanks, Reefer.
I thought that might be the big issue. I just tap the ball valve and the bubbles go right up to the top of the neck. I tap it back and the bubbles go right down the neck to the base. I can't get it just right.
Okay, so if I have to do the gate valve mod. Do I order a kit or can I get the parts locally for the RC-500?
Two issues, Euro-reef.
1) Why sell such an expensive unit with a silly ball-valve. Now I have to go spend more money on this unit.
2) I have a major issue with removing the collection cup. That cup does not come off easily. Any recommendations???
Also, how high up should the bubble level be inside the neck of the collection cup for wet skimmate? And for dry skimmate?
Thanks
Gate Valve Mod
Thanks, Reefer.
I thought that might be the big issue. I just tap the ball valve and the bubbles go right up to the top of the neck. I tap it back and the bubbles go right down the neck to the base. I can't get it just right.
Okay, so if I have to do the gate valve mod. Do I order a kit or can I get the parts locally for the RC-500?
Two issues, Euro-reef.
1) Why sell such an expensive unit with a silly ball-valve. Now I have to go spend more money on this unit.
2) I have a major issue with removing the collection cup. That cup does not come off easily. Any recommendations???
Also, how high up should the bubble level be inside the neck of the collection cup for wet skimmate? And for dry skimmate?
Thanks
euroreef
Registered Member
Bemmer,
1) You can adjust the tension on the ball valves so as to allow for easier adjustment. ( ask Lunchbucket to send you his photo-rama of how to do it). They actually work quite well. The reason we ditched the gate valve (although the skimmers can be ordered with them) is that they took up so much space and made it difficult for some uses to plumb into their systems.
2) Keep the mating surfaces clean and keep the o-ring lubed. If you still find it tight to turn, e-mail the customer service dept and they can get you a looser fitting o-ring to try.
-ER
1) You can adjust the tension on the ball valves so as to allow for easier adjustment. ( ask Lunchbucket to send you his photo-rama of how to do it). They actually work quite well. The reason we ditched the gate valve (although the skimmers can be ordered with them) is that they took up so much space and made it difficult for some uses to plumb into their systems.
2) Keep the mating surfaces clean and keep the o-ring lubed. If you still find it tight to turn, e-mail the customer service dept and they can get you a looser fitting o-ring to try.
-ER
240-Reefer
New member
Hey bummer
I have the same issues. I played w/ the BS ball valve for a month, just get the gate (I ordered my gate valve and new union from Savko)
To get the skimmate just where you want it you'll have to play with it
I have the same issues. I played w/ the BS ball valve for a month, just get the gate (I ordered my gate valve and new union from Savko)
To get the skimmate just where you want it you'll have to play with it
Bemmer
Premium Member
ER-
Thanks for your prompt response. I am impressed.
1) I will try adjusting the tension on the ball valve first so I don't have to purchase the gate valve mod. Logical reason for changing from the gate valve to ball valve. Although, the gate valve still seems to be the favored. Your answer is appreciated.
2) I got a little tub of lubrication but I used it all. What is the lubrication I should use on the o-ring and can I purchase it at a hardware store?
Thanks again for your professional responses.
R-
DocG
Premium Member
240-Reefer,
Is it really as dark as it shows in the picture?
Given that that collection cup looks to be 12" in diameter that is a very impressive amount of skimmate in a day. Now I am really excited about getting the new Euroreef. The waiting is killing me. I haven't been this excited about a new "toy" in a long time.
What is the gph of the feed pump?
How high is the bubble level?
Also can someone answer this. On the RC180 the SP4 pulls 960 lph. On the RC500 the two SP4s pull out 960x2 = 1920 lph. On the RC750 three SP4s only pull out 2500 lph instead of the 2880 that you would expect. The RC1000 has an even steeper per pump drop off. Why?
Thanks,
Don
Is it really as dark as it shows in the picture?
Given that that collection cup looks to be 12" in diameter that is a very impressive amount of skimmate in a day. Now I am really excited about getting the new Euroreef. The waiting is killing me. I haven't been this excited about a new "toy" in a long time.
What is the gph of the feed pump?
How high is the bubble level?
Also can someone answer this. On the RC180 the SP4 pulls 960 lph. On the RC500 the two SP4s pull out 960x2 = 1920 lph. On the RC750 three SP4s only pull out 2500 lph instead of the 2880 that you would expect. The RC1000 has an even steeper per pump drop off. Why?
Thanks,
Don
Lunchbucket
Premium Member
vaseline can break down o-rings. get silcone lube frome the plumbers section of the hardware store. good for o-rings
i pm'ed you the photorama...ahh heck i'll post it here
take the red handle off and unscrew both union sides. fit the notches from the handle in the side of the valve that has holes in it that line up. turn counter clockwise to losten
hope that helps
Lunchbucket
i pm'ed you the photorama...ahh heck i'll post it here
take the red handle off and unscrew both union sides. fit the notches from the handle in the side of the valve that has holes in it that line up. turn counter clockwise to losten
hope that helps
Lunchbucket
Bemmer
Premium Member
Hey Lunchbucket,
Thanks so much for the pics and the assistance. As you had stated, "...if you take the ballvalve apart you can use the handle to loosen the top a little till it is loose enough for fine adjustments". I did the adjustment a couple of minutes ago. The ball valve moves much smoother now. Time will tell how that helps with the skimmate.
BTW, where do you keep your bubble level within the skimmer neck. Just trying to find out where the "sweet" spot is.
Rebecca
Thanks so much for the pics and the assistance. As you had stated, "...if you take the ballvalve apart you can use the handle to loosen the top a little till it is loose enough for fine adjustments". I did the adjustment a couple of minutes ago. The ball valve moves much smoother now. Time will tell how that helps with the skimmate.
BTW, where do you keep your bubble level within the skimmer neck. Just trying to find out where the "sweet" spot is.
Rebecca
OK repost of first question and a second question..
Quick question that popped into my head.. Maybe it has been answered or even applied in the past.
Is it possible, let's say on the RC750 or 1000 to rig one of the pumps as a feed pump, still injecting air? Or would this cause problems? Just looking at efficiency per watt of electricity. I hope this makes sense, if not, I could maybe draw up the idea...
-also-
Do you guys notice any difference in skimming due to humidity and temp issues? I ask as I had to plumb the intake for my MRC outside the wetroom in order to get a constant foam production...
Thanks in advance, I'm just trying to do all my planning for the switch up front
Quick question that popped into my head.. Maybe it has been answered or even applied in the past.
Is it possible, let's say on the RC750 or 1000 to rig one of the pumps as a feed pump, still injecting air? Or would this cause problems? Just looking at efficiency per watt of electricity. I hope this makes sense, if not, I could maybe draw up the idea...
-also-
Do you guys notice any difference in skimming due to humidity and temp issues? I ask as I had to plumb the intake for my MRC outside the wetroom in order to get a constant foam production...
Thanks in advance, I'm just trying to do all my planning for the switch up front
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