Fairy wrasse Photo Library

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they sent me a beautiful adult male scotts wrasse. i would recommend liveaquaria to anyone. he arrived in spectacular shape. all of his fins were there. none of them were biten off. he has been swimming around the tank and eating like a pig since the day he got here.
 
question...

question...

liveaquaria has great price on scotts wrasse from cook island... is that coloration they show really what it looks like???

Would it get along with a scotts from a different region, or no?

thanks
G
 
how much damage do Fairy wrasses do to pod populations? do they do as much damage as 6 lines do?
i need to know this as soon as possibul i have 2 Fairy wrasses and i need to figure out the tank it will go in. and i dont want to leave them in the bag.
thanks
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6406688#post6406688 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by shane 1111
how much damage do Fairy wrasses do to pod populations? do they do as much damage as 6 lines do?
i need to know this as soon as possibul i have 2 Fairy wrasses and i need to figure out the tank it will go in. and i dont want to leave them in the bag.
thanks
Click to expand...

Fairy and flasher wrasses are primarily mid-water planktivores (similar to anthias in this regard) and will not decimate a population of benthic micro-vertebrates and invertebrates. Having said this, it's important to note that they must be fed a few times each day in order to maintain body weight.

Greg
 
Re: question...

Re: question...

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6405847#post6405847 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ghever
liveaquaria has great price on scotts wrasse from cook island... is that coloration they show really what it looks like???

Would it get along with a scotts from a different region, or no?

thanks
G
Click to expand...

My experience says NO
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6406829#post6406829 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by GSchiemer
Fairy and flasher wrasses are primarily mid-water planktivores (similar to anthias in this regard) and will not decimate a population of benthic micro-vertebrates and invertebrates. Having said this, it's important to note that they must be fed a few times each day in order to maintain body weight.

Greg
Click to expand...

Greg IME that certainly hasn't been the case. My Pink Margin and Solar Fairy would pick the rockwork all day. I don't notice this behaviour as much from my Exquisite or from my Cirrhilabrus cyanopleura when he was in the tank.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6396792#post6396792 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by DeltecRules
Seth how nice was the specimen from liveaquaria. I saw there prices for the aust. scotts and I was interested. Are they nice colorful males? Or young juveniles they send?
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From experience, LiveAquaria info on their site should be cross checked with other info. I ordered 2 red velvet fairy wrasses. LiveAquaria says their max size is 3" and they both arrived at 4 1/2". They are definitely not juveniles.

Also, they will not let you request male or female. You get what they send. Since I could not get the wrasses I wanted locally, I took a chance. I now have either two males or two females. The don't like each other, either. They are both healthy and very beautiful, but not the fun loving wrasses that I wanted.:mad:
 
i believe that is what they look like but i doubt they would get along with another scotts from another region. i bought the australian version and he is absolutely breath taking.
 
that is true, you cannot select the sex you want most of the time. you might be able to if you were to call them. i ordered the australian scotts and received a male scotts. so i lucked out this time.
 
this is a verry bad pic but you get the point. he is still in the bag
IMG_3167.jpg
 
my flame and my social fairy wrasse are fighting!? what can i do? they are going around each other flaring there fins. what do i do?
 
thats not fighting, they are just showing off their colors to see who is more dominant. that is why we buy wrasses. to see them flash. they are not fighting unless they are just chancing each other and biting fins.
 
Then turn the lights off and let them settle down a bit. You should've used the method that Bronco recomends using the specimen cup. The problem with animal instincts is they don't Q the fish for any lenght of time so sometimes they will be severely stressed.
 
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