First try at Focus Stacking...pretty cool

more than welcome.

Yes thats basically what you would do in PS. However, you also have to line up the pics too, because as your focal point moves back into the subject, it also pans in a little. So there is more to it, than just masking the areas in focus.

Ill have to give it a try later, and let you guys know how it goes. It can be done, just dont know if its something I can do.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14288212#post14288212 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by juniormc8704
Yes thats basically what you would do in PS. However, you also have to line up the pics too, because as your focal point moves back into the subject, it also pans in a little. So there is more to it, than just masking the areas in focus.

Ill have to give it a try later, and let you guys know how it goes. It can be done, just dont know if its something I can do.

I know. I just sort of assumed it was obvious that you would have to line up the photos first. I'm messing around with HF right now, and it's pretty sweet. Good stuff, but I already have PS so I doubt I'll end up buying the full version.
 
just a tip, use PS or LR and change all the files to tiff, and then process them. Seems to get better results. Im not sure why, but thats what Gary had me do, and they were much better.
 
I still have fun with your filter/flash-light trick you posted last time, and now new stacking technique ? You are amazing !!

what's your key light to those pictures? and do you use fill light when you take your coral pictures?
 
I will have to explore this technique. Very interesting shots. An occasional minor halo seems like a small price to pay for the "everything's in focus" shot. You've done a great job of applying the technique to colorful texture laden subjects.

xJake's comment about the similarity of this to electronic microscope shots is astute.
 
The lighting for now is just the regular T5 tank lighting. I am not using any fill lighting as of yet, but I have been looking into a few different options, but light temp (color) is making more difficult. As soon as i grow a third arm, or get someone to give me a hand, i might try some NightSea focus stacking. Just need to get a new filter for my lens, as i just upgraded my lens, and all my special filters dont fit anymore =(

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14291933#post14291933 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Absolute Reef
I still have fun with your filter/flash-light trick you posted last time, and now new stacking technique ? You are amazing !!

what's your key light to those pictures? and do you use fill light when you take your coral pictures?
 
CS4 also has a focus stacking feature in it that works pretty well.

I've done a number of shots with it that I like. Its a great technique.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14293834#post14293834 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by juniormc8704
The lighting for now is just the regular T5 tank lighting. I am not using any fill lighting as of yet, but I have been looking into a few different options, but light temp (color) is making more difficult. As soon as i grow a third arm, or get someone to give me a hand, i might try some NightSea focus stacking. Just need to get a new filter for my lens, as i just upgraded my lens, and all my special filters dont fit anymore =(

thats ok, filters are not that expensive anyway.
Stacking nightsea shot?!? wooo, that's gonna be quite a rush for taking day-polyps shot.
i had my mh light turned on 'n off every 5 minutes or so to take my zoa nightsea shots last time. it was fun.
 
If anyone is interested, here is a tutorial on how to execute this technique in Photoshop: http://community.spiritofphotography.com/index.php?page=22

Helicon Focus and CombineZM (the one I posted earlier) are very limited in their ability to correctly align images and create an accurate depth map- a fact that has thoroughly frustrated me. The only true way to solve this issue is to manually mark out the depth map in Photoshop as described in the tutorial posted above. I'm working on a few as I type this, so I should have some awesome images to post (hopefully by late tonight or tomorrow).

As for the electron microscope comment I made earlier...

I actually asked my microbiology professor about this earlier today, and he agreed. He said that the only major differences between the two is that electron microscopes use an electron beam instead of light, as well as the method by which the image is physically produced. That is, rather than reflecting/refracting back onto the viewing area (as in a camera), the electrons actually pass through the subject and onto a fluorescent screen (from which the image is retrieved). He tried to explain how exactly the image is created based on electron velocity/charge, but he used a lot of terminology I had never heard before. Basically after the electrons pass through the subject they are altered and spacial differentiation (the image) is able to be determined by this alteration.
 
Update:

I got busy with classwork, and I haven't had the time to sit down and work on these in photoshop. I did manage to finish one of them though:

Platygyra daedalea

New-Out99999_99998.jpg


The black circle (the dark spot in each corner) is from the cheap polarizer lens-filter I was using. I bought it at WalMart for $10 (Targus-brand) and it works great for getting rid of that excessive blue tint - as well as most reflections. I was going to crop it out, but I never go around to it. I'm not sure why it was showing up in the frame, because it doesn't anymore. I suppose maybe I didn't have it attached properly, but who knows...

I'll have some free time this weekend, so I might have some more to show then...
 
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