Flow in large tanks

Wish I could get that big a wave with 1. I only get about 3/4". I do have large corner overflows, so I know it knocks it down a little. new tank has coast to coast, so hope that will help.

The coast to coast will not help the waves. I have near that on my tank and only get 1/2"-3/4" wave with 1 or 2 waveboxes on. The water needs room to travel to get the wave up. With my next tank I'm considering trying to put overflows at one end of the tank. Then the waves will be able to bounce against the side without the overflow.
 
thanks for the link Stunreefer - that's the tank I was talking about.

Anyone do something similar? I believe there was a posting in this forum about the tank that described some of the details.
 
I figured I would try to link to work that's been published here to consolidate some of the some of the different approaches you guys have used.

George's CL:
070201.jpg


Dave's CL:
IMG_2363netsize.jpg


Ching's Tunze Emporium:
IMG_1833.jpg


Greg's Back Wall CL:
dec2829016wettest2.jpg



James' External Wavebox

And his additional 6101s:
IMG_6123.jpg


Steve's Penninsula w/ ext waveboxes, penductors, and tons o' tunze
DSC_0004.jpg
 
Great thread & just at the right time as I contemplate the flow in my 180G currently in planning stage And -

My thoughts that I have been putting away in a *savings* **tank** ;) for a future upgrade (already ;)). Alright lets see how well I can put this into words ----

1. If I can afford it go for a custom tank. Preferred acrylic (for the clarity - unmatched--yet ;)), but starfire if its glass (depends on how my kids treat the current setup :))
2. Assuming a custom tank - Flow in the Display will be primarily from Tunzes/powerheads built into a *false* wall. Powerhead will be in kind of a *tube* with two vents - one higher up as output (this is where the Tunze will go) & the other closer to the bottom will be the intake. based on flow needs the tunze will vary (6025- 6305 :D). This is like a pseudo CL without the overhead of Power consumption or heat addition (unless heat addition is desired ;)) Water circulation here will be circular in nature with strong flow along the top
3. For Linear flow - atleast one wavebox - again could be *built* into the tank...IMO this is a must have. Also a CL running length wise... intake at the middle top of the left pane & output in the top right. The pump would be a high gph pump...running twice a day for 2-3 hours each... this will simulate currents in the reef. My thought for keeping it at the top is to get high flow in the top & keep the low lower in the tank.

I would love to hear your thoughts on this as well.
 
Since you showed mine here is a comparison shot of before & after.
dec2829016wettest2.jpg


Here is what it looks like now.
CL is hidden by the rock work and I also use the returns, 4x vortech MP40w (will be getting another) & 2x Tunze power heads for flow as seen below
Nov282009012FTS2.jpg
 
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Thanks Oldude - Love the tank!

This may be in your thread, but what would you now have done differently for flow? Is there a way to hide the vortech's or Tunze's and still have them accessible for cleaning?
 
Thanks Oldude - Love the tank!

This may be in your thread, but what would you now have done differently for flow? Is there a way to hide the vortech's or Tunze's and still have them accessible for cleaning?
Thanks. If there is a way to hide them without them blowing directly into rock or corals I haven't found it. One thing I would have done differently is drill two more holes in the rear near the bottom (hidden) for the intake on the closed loop. I presently have the feed line in the overflow which was a mistake. I also should have done an external wave box.
 
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Here's what I have planned for flow in my 450g tank. The tank is built and on the stand, but it's dry until I complete some other work on the house. Anyway, this sketch shows the general flow pattern. The arrow pointing down (beneath the external overflow) represents the drain to the CL, and that along with the 4 CL returns on the bottom of the tank should promote a generalized circular flow of water, encouraging drainage toward the overflow.

450with1CL.png


The crudely-drawn (square) plumbing along the top left represents sump return, which should agitate the surface and again promote passage of water toward the overflow. There will also be a chiller return via a WavySea located along the back in the center, and this will have a Tunze mounted which will afford some randomness. Lastly, and not included in the above drawing, I added dual external waveboxes which flank the external overflow, seen in the next diagram.

4505.png


This will hopefully stir up detritus from the bottom and behind the aquascape, and anyways I just like it when softies sway to-and-fro.

Here's the actual overflow/wavebox end of the (still empty) tank.

overflowandwaveboxes.jpg


Hope this helps.
 
Since you showed mine here is a comparison shot of before & after. Here is what it looks like now. CL is hidden by the rock work and I also use the returns, 4x vortech MP40w (will be getting another) & 2x Tunze power heads for flow

WOW - Greg lookin' awesome!!
As much as I love the Tunzes, in my next build I want to try and have as few as possible. It's a hard choice, because they are so efficient electricity-wise, but the CL is so much less maintenance.

Paul - thanks a ton for that link. That is a terrific job you did there with the CL. Kinda like mine on steroids! The way your corals have grown out is fantastic. Did the 3hr alternating flow design work out like you wanted?
 
Paul - thanks a ton for that link. That is a terrific job you did there with the CL. Kinda like mine on steroids! The way your corals have grown out is fantastic. Did the 3hr alternating flow design work out like you wanted?

Thanks,

I actually have a 5hr alternation, but the CL goes off over night and only the few tunzes run over night. I chose 5hrs so as the pumps vary with each night cycle.

One thing I will say, when the pumps switch over the amount of detritus that flies up is crazy.

P.
 
Hello,

I try to explain as good as possible (as a non native english speaker with my level of english knowledge can do):

I am presently installing tank "integrated" in a bar of a hotel.
Net 236g, dimensions 63x31,5x27,5 inches (roughly), entire system incl. sump has 264g
all technical equipment is downstairs
I have 2 closed loop circles
Each one "powered" by a 14500L (3830g) pump
Two chambers in the back of the tank: one with four drillings (two for the owerflow feeding the sump, one as emergency overflow and one for the return) and one with two drillings (for the closed loop intakes).
For the entire plumbing I use 40mm (1,57 inches) pipes.
For the closed loop I only use "arc" or "Y"-tubes not "T´s" and no 90 degrees tubes, they cause to much flow resistance!!!

Here you can find some pictures:
The tank with the chambers in the middle of the back (the higher one on the left for the sump and right the closed loop intake an the drillings for the CL outlets in the bottom.
tank with chamber and CL drillings
some of the plumbing material:
plumbing
Here you can see a wrong stocking of the tank :fun2: - me in the tank installing the outlets.
installing the CL outlets
Here you can see the tank in the room behind the bar (not completed yet)
Bar room with tankHere the plumbing is completed and water is in the tank (you can see the front outlets of the CL) - sorry for the "quality" of the picture:
tank filled
Here is what I mean with only "Y" and "arcs":
(pictures are from a colleagues solution, as I have no pictures yet available from the tubing):
tubing solutions CL with "Y" and arches
CL tubing with arches
Yesterday I did the rock work but have not yet pictures downloaded.

regards

Markus
 
Here's the actual overflow/wavebox end of the (still empty) tank. Hope this helps.

Thanks for posting that Mike...I love your AGE. Can't wait to read about how the flow works out - the external waveboxes with the CL should be great. I'm sure Steve can fly in from Cali and provide expert flow consulting to tune it!

I read your 450 build thread and I can't imagine how anxious you are about getting that gorgeous setup up and running! Maybe Santa will bring you some salt water for Christmas? :rollface:
 
I read your 450 build thread and I can't imagine how anxious you are about getting that gorgeous setup up and running! Maybe Santa will bring you some salt water for Christmas? :rollface:
I'm not counting on it ... Mrs. Santa still wants a yard first, but after that, it's on! It is torture looking at that empty built-in tank, but it'll be worth it.
 
I have 2 closed loop circles
Each one "powered" by a 14500L (3830g) pump
Two chambers in the back of the tank: one with four drillings (two for the owerflow feeding the sump, one as emergency overflow and one for the return) and one with two drillings (for the closed loop intakes).
For the entire plumbing I use 40mm (1,57 inches) pipes.
For the closed loop I only use "arc" or "Y"-tubes not "T´s" and no 90 degrees tubes, they cause to much flow resistance!!!
Thanks Markus - do you have any close up pics of the CL design or the plumbing?
 
What about a decent sized surge devise, you can cut down on total turnover of the tank and let the surge every few minutes creat hard random flow and stir up any detritus that may have settled. I think on large tanks, they are extremely useful and usually overlooked.

This is what I plan on doing for my next tank. I love the concept of a surge tank and I think it is the best way to recreate real ocean motions with what we have available.
 
Hello Mike,

sorry, but I´dont have...(at the moment)
(I did not make pics before they did close the romm with a closet for the bar.)

regards

Markus
 
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