Gabriel's NEW 300 Gallon Envision Tank ((PICS INTENSE))

[turtlespd]

bebo77,

I never rely on phosphate test kits, they are pretty much useless. The only thing i go by is a tds meter to measure my RO. I would try to find that source of algea because in a large tank such as yours it will be a huge problem if you let it get out of hand.

Paul

 

[Bebo77]

my inline dts meter is reading 3.. when should i replace my filters?

 

[turtlespd]

I personaly change my unit out when it reads anymore than 3, its just not worth the algea but i know many run up to 7. You should check your tds out of your di and ro so you know what to replace instead guessing and changing everyting.

 

[Bebo77]

ill have to look into testing the DI because i just replaced all the filters on unit... i am using the AirWaterIce Typhoon III. i guess the Di is burned up as well....

 

[turtlespd]

damn, if you just replaced all that good stuff and you are still at 3ppm that would leave me with the impression that your DI is burned out. With new tanks i must add water with 0 tds because i really hate to start off poorly andt hen gotta run around trying to figure it all out.

 

[jnarowe]

Gabriel,

Just MHO but I never let my TDS go any higher than zero. When it reads "1" that means the DI needs to be replenished. I check every few days and always glance at the DI resin. It turns colors so it's easy to see when it needs more.

Keep in mind that incoming water is only one small source of phosphates and other contaminants. Most of it comes from fish food and fish excrement.

 

[jeffbrig]

Gabriel, keep in mind, the sediment and carbon filters don't remove dissolved solids. The sediment removes undissolved particulates, and the carbon filters remove chlorine that would damage the RO membrane. Since the best membrane is only 96-98% effective at removing TDS, the rest has to be mopped up by the DI resin. If you're seeing TDS after the DI, the resin has been exhausted and needs to be replaced.

 

[rulesmith]

On your clean up crew, I would really recommend going with like 80% snail to 20% crabs. I am highly suspicious that my crabs eat my snails. This give the snails a fighting chance, and means I have to replenish them less often.

 

[cmondo]

I think you should also check out sea hares. They do a really good job of cleaning up green hair algae.

 

[fareforce]

Bebo77,

Do you have the self cleaning head on your deltec? Is so, do you think it is worth it?

How do you like it? I am looking at there AP1003, but want to make sure that is the best one for my new tank before I drop down that much $$..

 

[Bebo77]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6949782#post6949782 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by fareforce
Bebo77,

Do you have the self cleaning head on your deltec? Is so, do you think it is worth it?

How do you like it? I am looking at there AP1003, but want to make sure that is the best one for my new tank before I drop down that much $$..

i dont have one now but i am thinking about getting one... i am getting tired of having to clean the neck all the time... Its a neat toy, but sooooo expensive. For the money of the skimmer and SCH i think i would get a Bubble King instead.

 

[fareforce]

bubble king?? never heard of it..

 

[rulesmith]

so far I am very pleased with my bubble king 300.

 

[Bebo77]

http://www.finsreef.com/home.php?cat=262

they are a probably the best made skimmer in the world.. but cost as much as a Deltec with SCH

 

[Bebo77]

ok i changes the DI filter.. i am now reading 0 ppm ... i guess i have to change the DI filter pretty often.. like every few months....

 

[jeffbrig]

FYI, airwaterice says that their vertical DI cartridge can remove something like 6000 grains before its exhausted. They use a full size filter cartridge, and this assumes that 100% of the resin is used, which may be optimistic. So, if you know the tds of the water coming out of your RO membrane, you can get an idea of how long it "should" last.

At 10tds, it should be good for up to 600 gallons.
At 5tds, it should handle up to 1200 gallons.

Another thing to keep in mind, each time you turn your RO/DI on, the initial product water from the RO can be very dirty for the first minute or two. Sometimes when I start mine up, it's higher initially than the tds of the incoming tap water. Presumably, this is due to gunk that was left on the membrane from the previous use. If you allow your RO/DI to turn on automatically, like with a float switch, the frequent production of high tds water is eating up your DI. You can extend the DI cartridge life if you divert this initial product water as waste instead of running it through your DI filter.

 

[tankslave]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6941170#post6941170 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by NexDog
Yah, nasty green stage there.

I know people say it's part of the cycle on a new tank but I simply refuse to believe that. The only thing that should happen is a diatom bloom. Hopefully you know the cause. Where did the rock come from?

yea, i agree. Usually such blooms are from the die-off on the LR.

Interesting to note that diatoms grow everywhere, even the glass. The first green outbreak is usally confined to the LR...

 

[Bebo77]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6952066#post6952066 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jeffbrig
FYI, airwaterice says that their vertical DI cartridge can remove something like 6000 grains before its exhausted. They use a full size filter cartridge, and this assumes that 100% of the resin is used, which may be optimistic. So, if you know the tds of the water coming out of your RO membrane, you can get an idea of how long it "should" last.

At 10tds, it should be good for up to 600 gallons.
At 5tds, it should handle up to 1200 gallons.

Another thing to keep in mind, each time you turn your RO/DI on, the initial product water from the RO can be very dirty for the first minute or two. Sometimes when I start mine up, it's higher initially than the tds of the incoming tap water. Presumably, this is due to gunk that was left on the membrane from the previous use. If you allow your RO/DI to turn on automatically, like with a float switch, the frequent production of high tds water is eating up your DI. You can extend the DI cartridge life if you divert this initial product water as waste instead of running it through your DI filter.

Jeff i have my RODI unit outside plumbed to the main house water line behind the reducer.. Everything will be controlled by my aquatronica.. i know you are not a big fan of automation but i like the idea that something is always keeping an eye on my tank for me..

I like the idea of averting the first bit of water around the DI unit.. ill have to see if i can rig something up...

 

[Gooli]

hey gabriel...i'm gonna buy one of these Typhoon III RO/DI systems as well....this may be a dumb question..but...how long can i store RO/DI water for? how about RO/DI water mixed with salt? does that "expire" ?

 

[Bebo77]

from what i understand salt water does not go bad(within reason) so long as you keep it moving.. ie put a pump in the storage container...