exactly, its boring posting alone
GHL Mitras Club
- Thread starter rodneyri
- Start date
exactly, its boring posting alone
ericung
New member
finally recieved the light,
1)the hanging kit not so well designed, the wire is too thin, too close together, and only one point of linkage at each side, howere the power cable is too thick and stiff, all these making it difficult to hang it in the balanced way
2)the manual illumination mode could not be preset like AI(it is for diagnostic purposes only according to manual, pretty like a doctor says I can make a diagnosis on you but I could not treat you), that means at the middle of the night if one wants to check something out and "turn on" the light, one has to press a lot of buttons before the mitras is properly light up
3)whenever there is a change in illumination points, say from 17K to 12K etc, during the transitional period, the colour temperature will become very very yellow, unacceptably yellow, very unnatural, it seems at the exact preset time, the light is really at 17K and 12K, but inbetween, the light tends to turn yellow, not all the bulbs change intensity in the synchronized way
4)the USB mini port is located at the bottom of the light, facing the tank surface, whenever you have to insert the USB cable, you have to flip open a little black colour cover, but the site of insertion is partially covered by the bottom glass, so you have to insert it slightly with an angle and use certain level of violence, the worst thing is in the manual, there is warning said if you drop the USB cable into the water, don't use it, it will cause damage..........................all these really unpleasant to me
I love my aqua hobby but I don't like playing with computer, hopefully there will be some usable default settings provided from GHL or from other fellows, thank you for reading
1)the hanging kit not so well designed, the wire is too thin, too close together, and only one point of linkage at each side, howere the power cable is too thick and stiff, all these making it difficult to hang it in the balanced way
2)the manual illumination mode could not be preset like AI(it is for diagnostic purposes only according to manual, pretty like a doctor says I can make a diagnosis on you but I could not treat you), that means at the middle of the night if one wants to check something out and "turn on" the light, one has to press a lot of buttons before the mitras is properly light up
3)whenever there is a change in illumination points, say from 17K to 12K etc, during the transitional period, the colour temperature will become very very yellow, unacceptably yellow, very unnatural, it seems at the exact preset time, the light is really at 17K and 12K, but inbetween, the light tends to turn yellow, not all the bulbs change intensity in the synchronized way
4)the USB mini port is located at the bottom of the light, facing the tank surface, whenever you have to insert the USB cable, you have to flip open a little black colour cover, but the site of insertion is partially covered by the bottom glass, so you have to insert it slightly with an angle and use certain level of violence, the worst thing is in the manual, there is warning said if you drop the USB cable into the water, don't use it, it will cause damage..........................all these really unpleasant to me
I love my aqua hobby but I don't like playing with computer, hopefully there will be some usable default settings provided from GHL or from other fellows, thank you for reading
AQD_ottawa
New member
Just to give some feedback to assist and reasure you personally.
1) The hanging kit is designed to be unobtrusive, in other words it blends in instead of having a thick cable that stands out, the distance is governed by the length of the fixture and the cable coming out the top stops sideways movement pull so each fixture lines equally.
2), 3) The software is the first very early release I have here the next one up on Beta test and all your wishes have been answered in one package, you should have access to this later next week.
4) The USB should only be connected when programming, there is a wireless module coming also. The protective strip is to stop salt creep getting into it, and the cover has slight movement in it so you can get the USB cable in without any force. Of course with any electrical cable if you drop it in the water, no dont use it, this goes with anything electrical.
I really appreciate your feedback it is great to have such unbiased views, and I hope my insight helps and reasures especially in regards to the software.
1) The hanging kit is designed to be unobtrusive, in other words it blends in instead of having a thick cable that stands out, the distance is governed by the length of the fixture and the cable coming out the top stops sideways movement pull so each fixture lines equally.
2), 3) The software is the first very early release I have here the next one up on Beta test and all your wishes have been answered in one package, you should have access to this later next week.
4) The USB should only be connected when programming, there is a wireless module coming also. The protective strip is to stop salt creep getting into it, and the cover has slight movement in it so you can get the USB cable in without any force. Of course with any electrical cable if you drop it in the water, no dont use it, this goes with anything electrical.
I really appreciate your feedback it is great to have such unbiased views, and I hope my insight helps and reasures especially in regards to the software.
Haxer
Member
Any word on a rail kit? Still trying to figure out how I want to mount my three units...
Also like some of the Radion users are doing... I am going to try using a wireless "dongle" to have the lights "hooked" up for programing.
A bit of feedback on the units, I dont know if it is just my units or if they are designed this way, but the metal grill that covers the heat-sinks on both sides of the top "jingles" around as you move the unit. When I first received my units I thought that something was broken and moving around inside them. First class build quality otherwise, just this nagging detail for me...
Also like some of the Radion users are doing... I am going to try using a wireless "dongle" to have the lights "hooked" up for programing.
A bit of feedback on the units, I dont know if it is just my units or if they are designed this way, but the metal grill that covers the heat-sinks on both sides of the top "jingles" around as you move the unit. When I first received my units I thought that something was broken and moving around inside them. First class build quality otherwise, just this nagging detail for me...
Last edited:
AQD_ottawa
New member
For all announcements including new software releases keep track at www.aquariumcomputer.com and click on forum then scrol down to the English section.
AQD_ottawa
New member
Through VM yes but not native.
xenon
Owner of Canada Corals
That's too bad.
One of the only reasons why I don't own a GHL Profilux.
Maybe one day programmers will realize how many Mac users are out there compared to PC. Everyone I know has a Mac now.
TheReefKeeper
Aquaholic
+1^^ Couldn't agree more!!!
As advanced as they are IMO they are a bit behind in this aspect the day they have the support is the day I become a loyal customer and purchase every piece they make.
As advanced as they are IMO they are a bit behind in this aspect the day they have the support is the day I become a loyal customer and purchase every piece they make.
shaggss
Active member
Just to give some feedback to assist and reasure you personally.
1) The hanging kit is designed to be unobtrusive, in other words it blends in instead of having a thick cable that stands out, the distance is governed by the length of the fixture and the cable coming out the top stops sideways movement pull so each fixture lines equally.
Yes I agree. I think the hanging kit is great and very functional for a single unit. If I had multiple units I would want a rail system.
2), 3) The software is the first very early release I have here the next one up on Beta test and all your wishes have been answered in one package, you should have access to this later next week.
I think GHL should have put more time into the software. Some very basic but necessary function were missing and the program still has a lot of bugs.
4) The USB should only be connected when programming, there is a wireless module coming also. The protective strip is to stop salt creep getting into it, and the cover has slight movement in it so you can get the USB cable in without any force. Of course with any electrical cable if you drop it in the water, no dont use it, this goes with anything electrical.
Yes a wireless connection would have been great on release too. the position of the USB port is questionable. though I do not have any trouble connecting it. but I have nearly dropped it in the water.
I really appreciate your feedback it is great to have such unbiased views, and I hope my insight helps and reasures especially in regards to the software.
Overall I think the lights are great and once the minor complaints are fixed, it will be a great bit of kit. I do feel GHL should have had these sorted before lease but in their defence, they have been quick to fix the bugs in the software.
AQD_ottawa
New member
The software was always at release going to be an early version. But hold on for V1.07 its awesome 
Playing with it right now! I am not sure when this will release as GHL as always will want it to be perfect first. I cant find a bug or fault however in what I am playng with.
Basic mode added! select a default colour temp - select time to start event - select % of dimming at time of event press OK - start over
I now have mine as follows
6am - 0% 14k
8am - 10% 14k
12pm - 75% 14k
5pm - 50% - 14k
8pm - 10% - HV only
12am - 0% HV only.
You can now test the light schedule without having to transmit first.
There is an easy mode for making your own preset colour temp and adding it to the preselects making it easy to copy home grown colour temps to another schedule.
If anyone wants help with the rail system please email me at sales@aqua-digital.com
Playing with it right now! I am not sure when this will release as GHL as always will want it to be perfect first. I cant find a bug or fault however in what I am playng with.Basic mode added! select a default colour temp - select time to start event - select % of dimming at time of event press OK - start over
I now have mine as follows
6am - 0% 14k
8am - 10% 14k
12pm - 75% 14k
5pm - 50% - 14k
8pm - 10% - HV only
12am - 0% HV only.
You can now test the light schedule without having to transmit first.
There is an easy mode for making your own preset colour temp and adding it to the preselects making it easy to copy home grown colour temps to another schedule.
If anyone wants help with the rail system please email me at sales@aqua-digital.com
Last edited:
AQD_ottawa
New member
The previous version can also. All the same functions are there, just the layout is more intuitive for everyone to feel the ease of use.
sahin
Ultimate Reefer
This doesn't sound good. Anyone else having such issues when the light is changing the K spectrum?
I am sure there are many others like myself who are keeping an eye on this thread in order to decided whether to get the Mitras of another companies LED.
AQD_ottawa
New member
The whole purpose of having control over the 9 channels IS so you can play with the output if it does not suit your eye or needs. This is one of the reasons people buy LED systems so they can dictate their own outputs.
In simple terms in nature if you change the Lumens the K will also change. Just look at the daylight hours, sunrise and sunset is considered more yellow than midday which is more blue white. But GHL understand clients want as best as possible a linear K output to the Lumens even though this is not natural.
However With the latest software the defaults do work to keep the K stable to the brightness for those not wanting to access all the features and capabilities of the lamp. But the whole purpose of having 9 channel control is so you can do whatever you wish with the lamp. Plug and play is nice but does not suit everyone, however the NEW software goes a long way to meet an even balance. This is one feature most LED units typically share.
quick google search -
Colour temperature ('K') vs brightness...It is a common misconception that higher colour temperatures (K’s) produce brighter lights. This is not true. The colour temperature only determines the colour but not the brightness of the light. The Colour Temperature is simply a scale represented by the Kelvin Temperature Chart (hence the abbreviation “K” or “K’s”) as decpited above that measures the colour of the light output. Typically, the higher the colour temperature, the closer you get to achieving bluish to purplish light colours."
Good info here
http://autolumination.com/colors.htm
http://priorityenergyandlighting.wordpress.com/2011/04/12/kelvin-vs-lumens/
I note a few people are basing eveything on the prelimanary software that was released with the lamp. As I said above the new version is being Beta tested right now where pretty much what everyone has concerns about is addressed. I will ask GHL on Monday if I can send the Beta version to the few concerned contributors here.
As side note also, every single LED system I have played with you get a different colour temp depending on the brightness.
In simple terms in nature if you change the Lumens the K will also change. Just look at the daylight hours, sunrise and sunset is considered more yellow than midday which is more blue white. But GHL understand clients want as best as possible a linear K output to the Lumens even though this is not natural.
However With the latest software the defaults do work to keep the K stable to the brightness for those not wanting to access all the features and capabilities of the lamp. But the whole purpose of having 9 channel control is so you can do whatever you wish with the lamp. Plug and play is nice but does not suit everyone, however the NEW software goes a long way to meet an even balance. This is one feature most LED units typically share.
quick google search -
Colour temperature ('K') vs brightness...It is a common misconception that higher colour temperatures (K’s) produce brighter lights. This is not true. The colour temperature only determines the colour but not the brightness of the light. The Colour Temperature is simply a scale represented by the Kelvin Temperature Chart (hence the abbreviation “K” or “K’s”) as decpited above that measures the colour of the light output. Typically, the higher the colour temperature, the closer you get to achieving bluish to purplish light colours."
Good info here
http://autolumination.com/colors.htm
http://priorityenergyandlighting.wordpress.com/2011/04/12/kelvin-vs-lumens/
I note a few people are basing eveything on the prelimanary software that was released with the lamp. As I said above the new version is being Beta tested right now where pretty much what everyone has concerns about is addressed. I will ask GHL on Monday if I can send the Beta version to the few concerned contributors here.
As side note also, every single LED system I have played with you get a different colour temp depending on the brightness.
Last edited:
sahin
Ultimate Reefer
Can you please answer the following for me, which I think will help me determine if I am to go with this unit:
1. Say I want to start at 9am with 5% with hyperviolet. All other LEDs OFF.
2. At 11am I want the hyperviolet at 100% and Royal Blue at 25% and Blues at 25%. All other LED's OFF.
3. at 1pm I want HyperViolet, Royal Blue and Blue at 100% with Cool White and Neutral at 25%. All other LEDs OFF.
4. At 3pm I want Hyperviolet, Royal Blue, Blue, Cool White and Neutral White at 100%, with Green, Reds and Yellow at 25%.
5. At 5pm, I want HyperViolet, Royal Blue and Blue at 100% with Cool White and Neutral at 25%. All other LEDs OFF.
6. At 7pm I want I want the hyperviolet at 100% and Royal Blue at 25% and Blues at 25%. All other LED's OFF.
7. At 8pm I want the hyperviolet at 100% and Royal Blue at 25% and Blues at 25%. All other LED's OFF.
8. at 9pm I want 5% with hyperviolet. All other LEDs OFF.
9. At 11pm I want the hyperviolets now to turn off.
Basically, I want FULL control over ALL 9 channels with illumination of the LED's of the respective channels to be at the percentages/intensity at the time periods I specify. I am thinking the unit will increase the power to each channel slowly to be at the intensity from one set point to another.
ie take points 1+2: At 9am the unit starts with the Hyperviolets at 5%. from there on, by the time it gets to 11am, I expect the unit to have increased the hyperviolets to 100%, and the RB + Blue from 0% to 25% by 11am.
Is that possible?
AQD_ottawa
New member
Yes if this is what you require.
Yes you have full control over all 9 channels.
Yes you have full control over all 9 channels.
sahin
Ultimate Reefer
Great, many thanks for the quick answer.
I know Steve at ReefDreams is the UK distributor, but I am located in London, and Steve is too far away from me. I will have to go on a hunt to find a UK retailer for these lights in the London area; as I want to pickup the unit rather than purchase through online/mail order.
