Go Big OR Go Home! Construction of a 1000 gallon System!!
- Thread starter bstone
- Start date
bstone
Premium Member
Well, I am 95% done with the electrical, I just need to make the final connections in the breaker panel. Which I will do once the tank is ready. I'm almost done with the tank stand, just need to add the Styrofoam. I also added a fan in the fish room to vent air to the outside. I must say, it is a very quiet fan. And it really sucks, air that is! Sorry, bad humor. I will have a humidity controller on it to help reduce the risk of moisture in the air. I will also have a de-humidifier as a back up incase the vent won't cut it on those unexpected days! I am going to have return and supply ducts ran to my fish room. This will also help with temperature and humidity control. I plan on doing that this week before the tank comes. A window A/C unit has been added that will vent to my garage. This will on turn on if my house HVAC can't cool the room enough on those hot days. The window A/C is also connected to a control that will only turn on in the event that the house HVAC unit can't keep up.
Next I plan on putting up the insulation and drywall. I hate putting up dry wall, especially with all the outlets I have!!
The tank is scheduled to be delivered this Saturday the 19th. I have a forklift scheduled to be dropped off that day, but it will be manpower that will be needed to lift the tank onto the stand. It won't be a dead lift, the tank will be about the same height as the stand, it will just need to be lifted up a few inches and then over on the stand! Sounds simple, lets hope so. The builder is having 8 suction cups sent with the tank, so that will help! So, if anyone lives near me and would like to help out on Saturday, please let me know!
Here are some updated pictures::rollface:
Fish Room
Vent in Ceiling
120volt and 240 volt lines for lighting
Other electrical
Next I plan on putting up the insulation and drywall. I hate putting up dry wall, especially with all the outlets I have!!
The tank is scheduled to be delivered this Saturday the 19th. I have a forklift scheduled to be dropped off that day, but it will be manpower that will be needed to lift the tank onto the stand. It won't be a dead lift, the tank will be about the same height as the stand, it will just need to be lifted up a few inches and then over on the stand! Sounds simple, lets hope so. The builder is having 8 suction cups sent with the tank, so that will help! So, if anyone lives near me and would like to help out on Saturday, please let me know!
Here are some updated pictures::rollface:
Fish Room
Vent in Ceiling
120volt and 240 volt lines for lighting
Other electrical
Kreeger1
KING LEAR
Speaking of error the only error left will be when your cutting out all those out lets in the drywall. quick tip so you don't miss one and cover it up, mark on the floor with a magic marker the placement of the plug, along what side of stud and how many ect. Its saved my electricians before after covreing one up and mudding the drywall, they just took there measurement from the floor and cut it in.
Erik
What are you running that uses 240 volt ?
Erik
What are you running that uses 240 volt ?
jnarowe
New member
Wow...that's a lot of plugs! You and I are at about the same pace right now. I have one wall and the ceiling buttoned up, and 3 to go. You really went crazy with the oulets.
We are doing most stuff the same except for a couple. I have the "normal" amount plus a couple of extra quads on the regular house current, and I am doing all the tank specific oulets surface mount. The reason for that is to give me flexibility, as well as moisture resistant boxes. My sstem will run on an AC III so that brings most critical equipment to central power blocks. I have 100A surface mount and 30A in-wall.
I also decided to have all venting conduit inside the room rather than in the ceiling to keep noise transfer down.
A word of caution regarding sound. If you are trying to keep sound to a minimum I would spray foam all the electrical boxes. They have slots in the back that allow sound to pass through and since you have so many that's is something I would check into. I have foamed every electrical box in the Tank room walls. I have also installed a secondary layer of offset studs to crews the inside sheet rock to. This eliminates the direct transfer of vibration and sound from the inner layer of rock, through the studs, and into the outer layer of rock.
I have to be fairly particular about sound because my tank room is in the center of the house.--J
We are doing most stuff the same except for a couple. I have the "normal" amount plus a couple of extra quads on the regular house current, and I am doing all the tank specific oulets surface mount. The reason for that is to give me flexibility, as well as moisture resistant boxes. My sstem will run on an AC III so that brings most critical equipment to central power blocks. I have 100A surface mount and 30A in-wall.
I also decided to have all venting conduit inside the room rather than in the ceiling to keep noise transfer down.
A word of caution regarding sound. If you are trying to keep sound to a minimum I would spray foam all the electrical boxes. They have slots in the back that allow sound to pass through and since you have so many that's is something I would check into. I have foamed every electrical box in the Tank room walls. I have also installed a secondary layer of offset studs to crews the inside sheet rock to. This eliminates the direct transfer of vibration and sound from the inner layer of rock, through the studs, and into the outer layer of rock.
I have to be fairly particular about sound because my tank room is in the center of the house.--J
bstone
Premium Member
jnarowe
My fish room is on the corner of my house, so only one wall will be of concern, and that wall has only 3 outlets on it. The sound should be at a minimum, but I will foam up the outlets - Good idea - .
I also went with a ACIII Pro, but I decided to do the X10. I put in a booster signal repeater to boost the signal to all the outlets in my fish room. I will have a lot of receivers on almost all my outlets to control all the lights, pumps, ozone, Ca reactro, you name it. I really like the X10, that is what I have on my current tank. You just have to make sure that you install the right signal bridges, repeaters, and boosters.
I think I saw your thread. Do you have the link!
My fish room is on the corner of my house, so only one wall will be of concern, and that wall has only 3 outlets on it. The sound should be at a minimum, but I will foam up the outlets - Good idea - .
I also went with a ACIII Pro, but I decided to do the X10. I put in a booster signal repeater to boost the signal to all the outlets in my fish room. I will have a lot of receivers on almost all my outlets to control all the lights, pumps, ozone, Ca reactro, you name it. I really like the X10, that is what I have on my current tank. You just have to make sure that you install the right signal bridges, repeaters, and boosters.
I think I saw your thread. Do you have the link!
jnarowe
New member
yeah, I don't know about the X-10 stuff. I am going with the DC4HDs because my lamps burn 9.5A each.
My link is: Starting 1000g Reef!
I look forward to sharing more ideas. My tank room is the crotch of an "L" shaped room downstairs directly below 3 bedrooms and a family room so sound is a serious issue.--J
My link is: Starting 1000g Reef!
I look forward to sharing more ideas. My tank room is the crotch of an "L" shaped room downstairs directly below 3 bedrooms and a family room so sound is a serious issue.--J
smoknreefrs
In Memoriam
i think he should of used BX instead of romex, and metal boxes instead of plastic...Kent E said:
By the way, with so many volts being used from the lighting and motors i would use an oversized neutral in the panel, especially if there are computers in the house....
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