Go Big OR Go Home! Construction of a 1000 gallon System!!

Man, I got tired looking at all of the work you've done and knowing how much you have left to do.

Setting up my 300G in-wall reef was alot more work than I imagined.

I used the Lumenarc III reflectors with the AC kits. I have a centrifugal fan that blows air though each reflector then out of the house through a vent in the wall. I have an window mounted 12000 BTU AC unit that I keep set at 72. Between these two items I am able to keep the tank at 80 or less. Tank evaporates 3 gallons/day. HTH.

Louey
 
Louey said:
Man, I got tired looking at all of the work you've done and knowing how much you have left to do.

Setting up my 300G in-wall reef was alot more work than I imagined.

I used the Lumenarc III reflectors with the AC kits. I have a centrifugal fan that blows air though each reflector then out of the house through a vent in the wall. I have an window mounted 12000 BTU AC unit that I keep set at 72. Between these two items I am able to keep the tank at 80 or less. Tank evaporates 3 gallons/day. HTH.

Louey
Its the labor of LOVE!! :cool: Why else would we do it?

I got the Lumenarc III reflectors also, but without the AC kit. I won't have a closed hood, it will all be open. I also have a 1hp chiller to help out with temps. I have the house HVAC connected to the room and I also have a window AC unit to help out!

You have any pictures posted of your tank?
 
RRodrigues said:
Impressive size, men look like dwarfs around the tank!!! Do you know it's glass thickness?

Ricardo

The glass is 3/4" think all around. The Eurobrace is 1/2".
 
Bstone

It look great!! Love teh outlets LOL..... I too put in a multitude of outlets for the tank. I am buildo=ing an elctric control panel though on 4 -15 amp circuits (I ran 14-3 wire for this reason). I went with 4 15 amps simply because the fact there is four of them and the DJ switches use 15 amps. I have a reefing friend who is also an elctrican and we calculated the power draw. In reality I might have 6 amps on each circuit.

I am breaking things up also so I dont have all the lighting, pumps, ect on individual circuits in case one should trip.

I think that metal boxes are codea round nay moise environment. That is why all the exterior boxes on my house are metal.... it was code. I think it is as the gentleman said above (assuming that it is a male posting LOL) that you have a better ground that way and it is safer.
 
I am using the Lumenarc III reflectors as well, open hood design, with 3 - 6" fans to exhaust air. The intake is under the deck, and our ambient temp. is low compared to most states. If I find out I need chilling, I have a plan for a heat exchanger hooked into a 3/4" coil in a coffin freezer filled with anti-freeze and water.

Stop laughing, it WILL work!
 
It is an interesting discussion about metal boxes being a better ground. I can't quite figure that out. The box is nailed into wood so there is no electrical transmission there, and the ground wires are connected to the outlet ground post (and to each other), so how does a metal box give you better ground connection?

Is it that the outlet is attached to the box in 2 spots and the ground is attached to the box? If so, the ground wire connection could still be affected by corrosion and not give a good connection, right? So where is the real benefit of the metal box?:confused:
 
I haven't seen metal boxes being used in new construction in years. Im not sure that the metal boxes having better grounding has any merrit what so ever.
 
Louey Wow...great thread. Have you seen a doctor about your sump fetish?

I really enjoyed you "mess" photos. I should have taken a pic when I had an inch of stipper/paint/texture on the floor of my tank room. It was a serious mess too.

Oh yeah, and your "Curly Q" exhaust system is fairly bizzare too. I guess that is how it had to be done. I always appreciate threads like your because there was some substantive advice given about common problems!
 
sixxer said:
bstone: How long does the cement have to dry before it is safe to put your tank on it?

sixxer, sorry for the delay; I just responded to your private message. The cement takes about 28 days to get a strength of 4,200 psi compression.
 
Well, the new tank got delivered Sunday morning; EARLY, like 6am. My neighbors loved hearing a semi going down the road, and me running the diesel forklift that early. Its cool though, all my cool neighbors were aware of the delivery time and actually came out to help!!:D The other neighbors, you know the vampires, the ones that never come outside and are anti-social! Can kiss my you know what!! :eek:

Here is a picture of the tank on the cart that I built. The plan is to lift the tank up, with suction cups, and remove the pallet. Then roll the cart into the tank room right next to the stand. Then lift the tank up and over on top of the stand. Sounds easy, but man, I hope we can lift this big thing. I got about 6 LARGE guys coming over on Tuesday to lift the tank up. I figure 2 on each side and one on each back corner, and then maybe two on the middle back to add support. I only have 6 good suction cups and 2 lighter ones.

DSC00949.JPG
 
hey Bstone....

The large tanks seem MUCH larger in real life dont they...

Looks good. I like the cart.

Paul.
 
6 guys won't be enough. My 300G tank supposedly weighed 550 pounds and I had eight guys. All eight guys swore the tank weighed at least 900 pounds.

It probably did only weighed 550, but 550 pounds of dead weight is a PITA.

Good luck. Don't drop it. ;)

Louey
 
Louey said:
6 guys won't be enough. My 300G tank supposedly weighed 550 pounds and I had eight guys. All eight guys swore the tank weighed at least 900 pounds.

It probably did only weighed 550, but 550 pounds of dead weight is a PITA.

Good luck. Don't drop it. ;)

Louey

We don't have to dead lift it. All we have to do is bend our knees about 3 inches with our elbows bent against our chest and lift with our legs. That makes it a lot easier then dead lifting it or manuvering it around. I Hope!:cool:
 
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