Going to add violet, PAR?

[Poseidon]

Hello,

I would like to add 6 of these to my current LED/Halide combo unit. As of today, I have 1 250W 14K Phoenix, and 4 Phillips Luxeon M LED's. With this arrangement, I have a LOT of PAR, in some places even on the sand bed I hit 300.

My tank is jamming along really well with growth of SPS, I think I can get a little better with color while retaining the growth rate by adding a spectrum of light without taking anything away.

So, does anyone have these:
http://shop.stevesleds.com/Hyper-Violet-V30-8794102498.htm
Can you give me an idea of the PAR that they put out at 700mA?

Thanks!
-Mike

 

[Poseidon]

Here is a recent image of my tank, I am hoping to make a bit more color.

 

[karimwassef]

I didn't use these specific LEDs but I've added violet and UV to my LEDs and I love the results, both in growth and coloration.

The downside is that you need to start all new captive corals lower down in the tank and slowly bring them up.

I almost wish stores would designate their PAR and photoperiods on their holding tanks so we can better gauge what the light gap is.

 

[Poseidon]

LOL! That would be ideal for sure. I have been fortunate to be able to get almost all my corals from fellow hobbyists so I know what the light amount is. Who would have thought that SE MI is a hot bed for captive grown corals.

If anyone has experience with these, please share, I am looking forward to your input.

 

[zachts]

I've got a stack of them waiting on me to get around to finishing the build for my display, taking my sweet time on it though, Don't even have them tinned yet, so no help here, but the older models were right up there on PAR with the royal blues at comparable current when you factored in the Apogee correction to the reading and these new ones are speced out a bit more powerful with built in 60 degree lens so should produce pretty nice PAR down in the tank, I'd hazard an educated guess that you'll get upwards of 20 PAR from a single chip 12 inches or so below water at 700 mA taking readings directly below the emitter.

Regardless of PAR I would never build an LED setup without violets, I preffer at least as many as I have Royal Blues and blues for that nice nuclear glow from the green corals that you used to get from VHO actinics.

That said if the OP is looking to bring out more than just flourescent colors he may need a different spectrum as well. there is lots of info around on lighting spectrum and pigmentation for varrious coral species and colors so if it's something in particular that seems lacking let us know.

My biggest hurdle switching over to LED was finding the combination that provided similar color rendition from my Colt coral and my reddish-purple montipora digitata that I was getting with fluorescent lighting. which turned out to be a lack in the proper red spectrum and the right amount of green/yellows to balance that out.

 

[zachts]

I almost wish stores would designate their PAR and photoperiods on their holding tanks so we can better gauge what the light gap is.

If only, :lolspin:

The store I frequent is pretty good about letting you know what their using but they are always fiddling with the newest lights over their frag racks so you still never quite know for sure and just have to assume they don't get near the light of your home display, then plan accordingly.

 

[karimwassef]

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[karimwassef]

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This is just UV LED on. No blue, no white, no halides.