Slightly off topic, but does this mean if you're working on a dry tank you'll never get it clear with a random orbital sander? I realize there's the "random" in the name, but it is overall a circular motion. I've heard it said before to not use a circular motion but for some reason I've never heard it explained why. And if it's in the video just tell me to stop being dumb and watch the video...
Also, let's say you've got a curved section of acrylic you'd like to clear up. Any suggestions?
Could someone pleases direct me to the 'who cares about scratches in my acrylic' thread?
Signed, Johns 15 year old Truvu.
On a dry tank I would absolutely use an orbital polisher. At least for the buffing part. Plus with a dry tank, you have the advantage of using a polisher which goes a long way in removing the swirls and creating a nice finish. On a wet tank using this method, those swirls will take much more effort to manually remove. By going one direction then the other with each progressive step, the paper will cut the sanding marks down as they are more effective going across the sanded pattern vs in the same direction much the same way a files surface has it's directional pattern. I hope that makes sense. The whole idea is to remove or reduce the marks from the previous sanding and by going vertical followed by horizontal, you will remove more surface with less effort with each progressive step.
For curved, maybe doubling up on the pads that go between the magnet and the sand paper so that the sanding surface is a bit more conforming.
:lolspin: :lolspin:
You're not far behind me! I had my tank made right around 20 years ago. There aren't too many of us that can say they have had the same tank that long. That said, I do like the fact that after all these years, you can look through the viewing panes and not see scratches. :thumbsup:
The kit does not include anything below 1000 grit. For that, I used store bought wet sand paper. Hopefully you ordered extra algae pads so you have something to glue the sand paper to.
That said, it's tough to say how deep. If you can feel it with your nail, that is fairly deep. Best advice is to do a test spot using a finer grade and see how it removes the scratch. It took me a bit of testing to realise I could make quicker work of what I perceived as a deeper scratch using the heavier grit. The heavier grit will make quicker work of the deep scratches but it's more work overall if you use the heavy grit as your starter for lighter scratches since you have to go through additional sanding stages. This is why I would suggest doing a test area first.
And remember, never work in a circular motion. Work one step vertical and the next horizontal. Or work vertically for several passes and then horizontally for several passes before moving on to the next finer grit.
I will order extra algae pads, thanks for reminding me of that. Do you just super glue them to the pad then?
We did my 510 this week. I don't think my kid will ever talk to me again
This was a great thread chain to read. I just bought a used acrylic tank and will need to tackle this issue on the outside and the inside I believe.
What's the process for the outside of the tank? If you are serious I would pay for this service. I'm in Orange County.
Scott, what kind of regular maintenance do you do on the outside. With my glass tank its a soft cotton cloth and a bit of Windex. Is acrylic similar? Waffling will be turning to ordering very soon.
just found this thread awesome! jus bought my shallow 150 i started sanding it with 1000 and 2000 grit followed by novus 3 didnt come out as i expected so far any tips?
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