griss’ Battle with Cyano - all the Things I’ve Tried

Most of it is Caulerpa racemosa but there’s also some Caulerpa sertularioides.
 
Years back I had M.Mud in the sump.
Reversed Lateral Line on a Tang.
I never changed it out like recommended.
No noticeable effects either way otherwise.
 
Had a bit of a setback today. Set the fuge up Sunday and all was great. Checked on it at 6:15 this morning and all going smooth. Got to work and the wife called at 8:15 to say, the fuge is overflowing. She shut down the pump to the fuge.

Got home tonight and salinity in the tank has dropped to 1.020….again🙄. Everything looks okay, so I’ll be bringing the salinity up slowly.

Putting the fuge back online, the pump is suddenly (after 4 days of running flawlessly) pumping too much water into the fuge for the overflow????? I’ve confirmed there is NOT a blockage in the overflow. So I’m a bit perplexed.

I took the fuge offline and will try to put a ball valve on the pump this weekend. I swear, in over 30 years in this hobby, the last 15 have been nothing but bad luck. Oh well, I’ll keep plugging away. Someday, things will get better.
 
Interesting. IMO a bit long winded and I tend to get lost in the weeds😉. Would you mind summarizing how you use the calcium powder for me? I have some MB7 I can add to the mix.
Let's do some copying and pasting.

the coral snow part
"
  • Select a clean container, one that is resealable and able to be shaken. I use an old creatine bottle.(Yes, I am on the GAIN TRAIN)
  • For 500ML of solution, add 10 level tablespoons of powder to roughly 425-450ML of RO/DI water.
  • Shake the bottle up, and let it sit for two hours. After which, it will be ready to use.
  • Now, I don’t believe that you can overdose with this product, but a good recommended dose is 5ml per 50gl of aquarium volume.
  • Be sure to shake up the bottle prior to each use as the powder can settle."
the anti-cyano part

"
  • A plastic or glass cup will suffice.
  • Next, add 10 drops of Microbacter7 per 5ML of Coral Snow.
  • Allow 5 minutes for the solution to sit and then dose into your aquarium."
The "powder" is calcium carbonate. He also switched from MB7 to Zeobak but I couldn't find if he's using the same number of drops. I think there's room for experimentation with the bacteria types.

He also says to turn off your main pump for 30 mins but leave your in tank flow going to move the stuff around.

Since I now have some persistant thick cyano in some areas (I blame you Griss), I think I am going to try this.
 
Let's do some copying and pasting.

the coral snow part
"
  • Select a clean container, one that is resealable and able to be shaken. I use an old creatine bottle.(Yes, I am on the GAIN TRAIN)
  • For 500ML of solution, add 10 level tablespoons of powder to roughly 425-450ML of RO/DI water.
  • Shake the bottle up, and let it sit for two hours. After which, it will be ready to use.
  • Now, I don’t believe that you can overdose with this product, but a good recommended dose is 5ml per 50gl of aquarium volume.
  • Be sure to shake up the bottle prior to each use as the powder can settle."
the anti-cyano part

"
  • A plastic or glass cup will suffice.
  • Next, add 10 drops of Microbacter7 per 5ML of Coral Snow.
  • Allow 5 minutes for the solution to sit and then dose into your aquarium."
The "powder" is calcium carbonate. He also switched from MB7 to Zeobak but I couldn't find if he's using the same number of drops. I think there's room for experimentation with the bacteria types.

He also says to turn off your main pump for 30 mins but leave your in tank flow going to move the stuff around.

Since I now have some persistant thick cyano in some areas (I blame you Griss), I think I am going to try this.
Thank you and sorry to hear about the Cyano issue you’re having my friend.
 
Guy in our club's wife, hated him and his aquarium. She confessed during the divorce that she poured used to pour bleach in his tank when he was gone. He lost a lot of fish and coral and could never figure out why.


Remembering photos of his tank... He had no cyano.
 
Guy in our club's wife, hated him and his aquarium. She confessed during the divorce that she poured used to pour bleach in his tank when he was gone. He lost a lot of fish and coral and could never figure out why.


Remembering photos of his tank... He had no cyano.
So, I should add bleach?😂
 
I figured I'd ask chatgpt how to solve cyano, lol.

Eliminating Cyanobacteria in Marine Aquarium​

How can I eliminate cyanobacteria from a marine aquarium?



Cyanobacteria, also known as blue-green algae, can be a common problem in marine aquariums. However, there are several steps you can take to eliminate it:
  1. Control lighting: Cyanobacteria thrive in bright light, so reducing the amount of light your aquarium receives can help reduce its growth.
  2. Increase water flow: Good water circulation helps to keep the water well mixed, reducing areas where the algae can grow.
  3. Add protein skimmer: A protein skimmer can help remove organic matter from the water that the cyanobacteria feed on.
  4. Reduce nutrients: Cyanobacteria thrive in environments with high levels of nutrients, such as nitrates and phosphates. Test your water for these and reduce them through water changes and/or the use of chemical filtration media.
  5. Remove manually: If possible, manually remove as much of the cyanobacteria as you can from the surfaces of your aquarium and equipment.
  6. Use chemicals: There are several chemical treatments available that can help eliminate cyanobacteria, including copper-based algaecides and hydrogen peroxide. However, it's important to use these chemicals carefully, as they can harm your other aquarium inhabitants if not used properly.
  7. Seek professional help: If you are unable to control the cyanobacteria, consider seeking the advice of a professional aquarist or aquatic biologist.
It's important to note that while these steps can help reduce or eliminate cyanobacteria, they may not solve the underlying problem that led to its growth in the first place. Therefore, it's important to maintain good aquarium husbandry practices to keep your system healthy and prevent future outbreaks.




ChatGPT Jan 30 Version. Free Research Preview. Our goal is to make AI systems more natural and safe to interact with. Your feedback will help us improve.
 
My brother in law is a biologist for the Army Corps of Engineers. He was telling me about placing satellites in orbit to track blooms in the gulf.

They have no idea why they happen either. I got platitudes like the ones above.

My recent experiences have convinced me it is more tricky than I thought. I have 4 tanks 29, 75, 180 and 240 gallons on a common sump. Some of them grow cyano and some never do.
I have Chemiclean in my system right now. I put it in last night.
The only thing I have notice is if I keep my Phos at .1 and nitrates at 10 and hold them steady I can keep cyano away. If either changes much it starts up again.
I was doing good and then got my knee replaced and the system has been on autopilot for several months. Time to get back into the swing of things.
 
I have 4 tanks 29, 75, 180 and 240 gallons on a common sump. Some of them grow cyano and some never do.
I find that very interesting. I know I read somewhere that these goopy organisms (cyano, dinos, crystophytes) create a microclimate that benefits them to the detriment of the things they are smothering. I think that's the premise of brandon over at R2R but his ripclean thing is mental to me.
 
Today
The 240
i-tFbFTDJ-M.jpg

The 180
i-bcpCM6w-M.jpg

My plan when I get around to it is to remove some of the crushed coral in the 240 so it isn't so deep ands clean the rest.
I use LaCl on a doser with 2 sulfur denitrators and biopellets to control nutrients. I can hold them pretty close to where I want them if I watch.
The 180 has 2 grown snowflake eels that make plenty of nutrients for me to deal with.
Not bad though since all I have done since November is fill up doser reservoirs and clean the glass a few times. I go to PT twice a week and feel like a truck hit me afterwards for a while still.
 
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