Guide to setup a Quarantine Tank (QT).

ur fine. sump is another tank what sits under the main tank. usually the main tank drains in the sump and there usually are baffles and fuge and heater skimmer etc in the sump with a return pump back to the main tank.
here is a pic
20120727_213241-1.jpg
 
Hi bnumair,

What are your thoughts about using either Seachem Prime or Stability in conjunction with Prazipro? Are there any contraindications with either combination?
 
I have a 20G tank set up with an ehieim Wet/Dry canister filter that contains ehfisubstrat pro: http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=8983

For the past year I have had just some live rock in there, i usually throw the live rock that has too much algae on it in there so it dies off. I recently took out most of the rock except one big piece. I assume the tank should be cycled (params all in check), however there are some times when i shut the heater down to save power and the tank temp goes down to about 72-74.

Will that have any impact on the bacteria colonies in the rock or the filter media?

I have some fish coming in, did a 50% water change in the system and turned the heater back to 80.

Should i add any type of bacteria boost?
 
Deinonych said:
Hi bnumair,

What are your thoughts about using either Seachem Prime or Stability in conjunction with Prazipro? Are there any contraindications with either combination?
Click to expand...

its never a good idea to mix meds together. prazipro (not sure) prime (for sure) contains reducing agents. and when reducing agents are combined or overdosed in combination the can cause oxygen to deplete causing stress or even death in livestock.
i recommend not to mix.
Good luck and happy reefing.
 
Last edited:
JonnyD91 said:
I have a 20G tank set up with an ehieim Wet/Dry canister filter that contains ehfisubstrat pro: http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=8983

For the past year I have had just some live rock in there, i usually throw the live rock that has too much algae on it in there so it dies off. I recently took out most of the rock except one big piece. I assume the tank should be cycled (params all in check), however there are some times when i shut the heater down to save power and the tank temp goes down to about 72-74.

Will that have any impact on the bacteria colonies in the rock or the filter media?

I have some fish coming in, did a 50% water change in the system and turned the heater back to 80.

Should i add any type of bacteria boost?
Click to expand...

Hi
media is fine no issues with that but remember if u pull it out and rinse it ur losing the bacteria and starting cycle all over again. so i would leave it in and not touch it.
second part of ur question. temp to keep bacteria active and healthy is 76-82 . cooler the temps are they become inactive and sometime die off. plus the swing in temp is not a good idea itself. try setting ur heater at 76F this is its on and off and not consuming too much electric. with fish i would definitely keep temp of 80F so it fastens the life cycle of any parasites it fish have any.
i personally dont waste time and money in bacteria in bottle. just my personal thing.
Good luck and Happy reefing.
 
bnumair said:
its never a good idea to mix meds together. prazipro (not sure) prime (for sure) contains reducing agents. and when reducing agents are combined or overdosed in combination the can cause oxygen to deplete causing stress or even death in livestock.
i recommend not to mix.
Good luck and happy reefing.
Click to expand...

Thanks!
 
Regarding Prime...how long should I wait to use PraziPro or Cupramine after adding to the tank? I add some Prime to my QT today, as ammonia was spiking a little bit.

I'll stop adding Prime to my tank, as I'm going to start a Cupramine protocol soon.
 
i would run some carbon for week or so before adding cupramine to ur tank. or do major water changes to make sure there is no prime left in water as it will react with cupramine and cause water to turn toxic.
 
What is a good basic test kit for ammonia nitrite and nitrate? I have a ph probe for both tanks but my master test kit has run out. Been a while since I needed one. Haven't gotten new fish in 3 years.
 
JonnyD91 said:
What is a good basic test kit for ammonia nitrite and nitrate? I have a ph probe for both tanks but my master test kit has run out. Been a while since I needed one. Haven't gotten new fish in 3 years.
Click to expand...

I consider ammonia nitrite and nitrate basic level tests that are just required in initial setups and then forgotten. so for such lower level needs i use very basic API test kits as they are just as reliable and not that much in cost.
 
I am about a week and half in my first QT and first fish. When I established my QT my nitrates were at about 2.5. The water came from a cycled DT which I also could never get Nitrate to 0, it always stayed about 2.5. I just took measurements on tanks and found Nitrate up to 10 in my QT, which I assume is expected with the fish eating and pooping. My question is if I should do a water change now, or wait to finish the full 2 weeks on the Prazipro, which is next Tuesday, or can I wait til then when I start the 50% water changes?
 
nitrates will not hurt fish unless in uppers 90's and beyond. i would wait it out and last ur 2 weeks of prazipro then do water changes to rid the medicine. i would do few water changes like 30% times 3 or 4.
 
I only have a 20g non reef tank , ~8-10mon old, I was planning to setup a perminant QT BUT have now desided to just due an emergency tank instead, my LFS has ~2g and 5.5 gal tanks available which would be the better one to use?

Also I have an old aquaclear 200 filter that doesn't move water well could this work for the small tank?
my second option was getter a stronger filter for my 20g (aquaclear 300) and use the better aquaclear 200 in the QT just decrease the flow strength, or is this too strong still??, I all ready have a 50w heater available for the QT

I just feel having a QT that's 1/2 the size of my regular tank is a little much
(sorry I just feel so torn on what I should / want to do)
 
As far as QT size it really depends on what you will be QTing. With a QT under 10g the ammonia will be able to rise quickly in the QT potentially killing whatever you have in the QT. As filtration goes what you mentioned will work but it kinda goes back to what you will have in the QT and what medicines will be used in the tank. Some things are used with carbon, some aren't. Some need H2O changes often some dont. More back ground on what you plan on getting in the future DT will help with what size QT you should have, but I would say 10g at the minimum for a QT
 
I plan to completely restock my tank over next 6-12 months, I have 2 damsels that my LFS is gunna take, future fish plans (trying to get in this order, only 1-3 at time) = scissor tail or Catalina goby, a cleaner shrimp, scooter Blenny, yellow or black jawfish, 2-3 chalk basslets, coral beauty, and last (maybe, afraid too aggresive/too many fish) flame hawkfish
 
Personally I would not go less than 10gal. Its much harder to maintain a small tank let lone an emergency qt that has ammonia creeping up every hour. Although all fish mentioned are small scale but being a newbie it will be very difficult for u.
Some problems u will face are: in small tanks. Temp swing. Ph swing. Salinity swing ammonia creep etc.
 
I know I shouldn't use live rock and sand in the QT but can I use fake rock/coarl from the LFS, is it safe for the fish? I want to try to keep the stress level down. Also I heard a recommendation that u can put some of ur sand in pantie hose to help get ur bacterial count to normal in the QT and then removing it before added fish
 
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