Guide to setup a Quarantine Tank (QT).

[jfeva0049]

can you please inform me why bio filtration like ceramic rings cant be used back and forth from dt and qt? i know that this cant be done right away,but if no copper is used, why could i not dry out the rings for a few weeks then place back in dt sump to seed for next qt set up? thanks.

 

[Pprice01]

Hello All,

I am setting up my first real QT and wanted to get your opinion. I have a 55g setup with an air-driven sponge filter and powerhead. It's bare-bottom and has no rock, sand, or anything else in it.

It's been running for about 2.5 weeks, seeded with mysis shrimp, and I'm working out the best way to move my clowns (3) from my DT to this tank to rid them of ich while the DT sits fallow for 10 weeks to get the ich out for good.

Although the clowns aren't exibiting any signs of ich, I recently had an outbreak on my little Hippo Tang and lost it, along with a Blonde Naso - so I know that the tank's got ich and the clowns likely do too.

Would you suggest that I put the clowns in buckets and use the transfer method, run hypo in the QT, or run Cupramine in the QT?

Once I have them ich-free to the best of my ability I plan to treat them with Prazipro in the QT while I wait out the fallow period too.

Then, I'm considering putting a 10g that I have into service as a QT since I don't have room to leave the 55g up all the time.

Thoughts?

 

[Dr. Reef]

can you please inform me why bio filtration like ceramic rings cant be used back and forth from dt and qt? i know that this cant be done right away,but if no copper is used, why could i not dry out the rings for a few weeks then place back in dt sump to seed for next qt set up? thanks.

if there is no copper based med is used then it can be done by removing the media and drying it out wash it then move it to a different tank. yes its possible. but why would u wanna move media from qt to dt and back and forth?
this will defeat the purpose of QT.
but yes its possible.

 

[jfeva0049]

if there is no copper based med is used then it can be done by removing the media and drying it out wash it then move it to a different tank. yes its possible. but why would u wanna move media from qt to dt and back and forth?
this will defeat the purpose of QT.
but yes its possible.

well i don't have the room to have a qt set up 24/365. so i guess i figured that if i had bio media that i can use back and forth, i will always have some bio filtration when i need it. rather than trying to cycle a new each time i want to add a new fish.

im still learning so please inform me if there is something that i missing or not getting.thanks.

 

[gsiegel]

Bnumair - I posted this in the general new to hobby forum but thought I would check with the resident expert :reading: here.

Aside from dosing prazi with new additions in the QT are there any other suggestions?

- 1 dose of prazi, wait a week and do 30% water change, and then do 2nd dose?

I have read someone using fenbendazole but know very little about this.

I have also read using chloroquine phosphate such as this as an example.
http://www.countrysidepet.com/search.php?search_query=chloroquine+


I know there are many differing posts on this issue but what are your thoughts/roadmap for QT regimen? Simply put - When to add what and with what step by step?

Thanks
:beer:

 

[Dr. Reef]

well i don't have the room to have a qt set up 24/365. so i guess i figured that if i had bio media that i can use back and forth, i will always have some bio filtration when i need it. rather than trying to cycle a new each time i want to add a new fish.

im still learning so please inform me if there is something that i missing or not getting.thanks.

no problem. if u dont use any copper based meds then yes u can go back and forth, making sure that the media is always submerged in saltwater and leaving it near rocks while its in DT.

 

[jfeva0049]

no problem. if u dont use any copper based meds then yes u can go back and forth, making sure that the media is always submerged in saltwater and leaving it near rocks while its in DT.

thanks for the info. do you think a bio/nano cube 14 gal would be a ok qt tank?

 

[Dr. Reef]

Bnumair - I posted this in the general new to hobby forum but thought I would check with the resident expert :reading: here.

Aside from dosing prazi with new additions in the QT are there any other suggestions?

- 1 dose of prazi, wait a week and do 30% water change, and then do 2nd dose?

I have read someone using fenbendazole but know very little about this.

I have also read using chloroquine phosphate such as this as an example.
http://www.countrysidepet.com/search.php?search_query=chloroquine+


I know there are many differing posts on this issue but what are your thoughts/roadmap for QT regimen? Simply put - When to add what and with what step by step?

Thanks
:beer:

there are many ways and many meds out there to achieve what u want. but if u are just doing preventive care then there is hardly any need for drugs.
i run all fish with prazipro first week then water change and redose for 2nd week. then 4 weeks of observation.
if fish are tangs species then after prazipro treatment i run cupramine 3 weeks or do hypo for 3 weeks (thats if there is no ich noticed) if there is ich then treatment duration changes accordingly.
to my knowledge (no personal experience) fenbendazole is a dewormer for dogs and cats. i did a quick search to find out its sometimes used to kill hydroids. i am not sure of ill effects.
chloroquine phosphate is a newer (still on going testing) phase that has not become extremely popular yet among reefers. it is tough and can disturb fish digestive system. no personal experience there either.
most commonly and well tested methods for ich prevention and to rid ich are:
hypo
copper
tank transfer.
i hope this help.
good luck.

 

[Dr. Reef]

thanks for the info. do you think a bio/nano cube 14 gal would be a ok qt tank?

yes as long as u dont buy very large fish and leave it in small cube for long term.
a normal qt term of 8 weeks or so will be fine with most fish.
also in my experience cubes generally run hot so monitor temperature.
good luck.

 

[gsiegel]

there are many ways and many meds out there to achieve what u want. but if u are just doing preventive care then there is hardly any need for drugs.
i run all fish with prazipro first week then water change and redose for 2nd week. then 4 weeks of observation.
if fish are tangs species then after prazipro treatment i run cupramine 3 weeks or do hypo for 3 weeks (thats if there is no ich noticed) if there is ich then treatment duration changes accordingly.
to my knowledge (no personal experience) fenbendazole is a dewormer for dogs and cats. i did a quick search to find out its sometimes used to kill hydroids. i am not sure of ill effects.
chloroquine phosphate is a newer (still on going testing) phase that has not become extremely popular yet among reefers. it is tough and can disturb fish digestive system. no personal experience there either.
most commonly and well tested methods for ich prevention and to rid ich are:
hypo
copper
tank transfer.
i hope this help.
good luck.

Very helpful - thanks. Much info out there and with so many different opinions it makes my head:spin3:

So I am currently treating my DT for ick (learn from the mistakes of not starting with a QT-again following someone's advice that it was not necessary:furious

I saw a fish that I would like to have that is not very common. Would it concern you purchasing the fish to keep in the QT while treating a DT that currently has ick? It was not a big outbreak in that only a few of the fish had a minor case of it BUT of course that may be like saying they are just a little pregnant....
I have inverts in the QT consisting of hermit crabs and starfish while treating the 280g DT, and after a couple of weeks of the QT up and running with water and bioballs from the DT tank the water parameters are fine. I did not have an ammonia spike, although there are a very small amount of nitrites but I am going to do a 30% water change which should get that back in line. Nitrates are very minimal at about 5.

So after all this, would you be hesitant to get the fish, or say ok to add to the QT?

I have an unrelated question I will ask separately. Thanks!

 

[gsiegel]

Let's say hypothetically you dose prazi for a fish in QT. After going through the treatment you plan to add another fish to QT (after doing say nearly a 30% water change - I have 5 gallon containers and 36g QT so plan to take out and replace 10g of salt water - sound about right?).

Do you essentially start over by doing the 2 doses of prazi? No concerns if you recently had dosed with prazi and assuming there would still be some remnants of it in the system since you still would have 70% of the "old" water remaining?

Also what would you limit with respect to fish and size in a 36g GT (it is a bowfront/rectangular tank so longer than it is high although I don't have the exact dimensions with me)? Could you keep 2 triggers that are about 6 in. each, and if ok also have an angel that is about 3-4 in.? If so, would you suggest a weekly water change?

Thanks again!

 

[Dr. Reef]

Hello All,

I am setting up my first real QT and wanted to get your opinion. I have a 55g setup with an air-driven sponge filter and powerhead. It's bare-bottom and has no rock, sand, or anything else in it.

It's been running for about 2.5 weeks, seeded with mysis shrimp, and I'm working out the best way to move my clowns (3) from my DT to this tank to rid them of ich while the DT sits fallow for 10 weeks to get the ich out for good.

Although the clowns aren't exibiting any signs of ich, I recently had an outbreak on my little Hippo Tang and lost it, along with a Blonde Naso - so I know that the tank's got ich and the clowns likely do too.

Would you suggest that I put the clowns in buckets and use the transfer method, run hypo in the QT, or run Cupramine in the QT?

Once I have them ich-free to the best of my ability I plan to treat them with Prazipro in the QT while I wait out the fallow period too.

Then, I'm considering putting a 10g that I have into service as a QT since I don't have room to leave the 55g up all the time.

Thoughts?

if ur Dt had ich then yes u will need to pull all fish in DT out and transfer them to QT.
no need for buckets or anything just make sure then temp and salinity of QT and Dt are same then just net them out and place them in QT.
once in QT u can run cupramine or hypo ur choice. i prefer hypo if u have ATO on QT to keep salinity stable at 1.009. if not then cupramine. but make sure u pul some floss or ceramic rings in QT much prior to adding fish so they get established and there is no ammonia in the system.
once u get done treating ich then u can run 1-2 weeks of prazipro as well.
as for 10g for QT when u take down the 55 make sure u move all the filters,media,rings,floss etc from 55 to 10g leaving everything submerged in saltwater at 99% of the time. this is insure no mini cycle.
good luck keep me posted.

 

[Dr. Reef]

Very helpful - thanks. Much info out there and with so many different opinions it makes my head:spin3:

So I am currently treating my DT for ick (learn from the mistakes of not starting with a QT-again following someone's advice that it was not necessary:furious

I saw a fish that I would like to have that is not very common. Would it concern you purchasing the fish to keep in the QT while treating a DT that currently has ick? It was not a big outbreak in that only a few of the fish had a minor case of it BUT of course that may be like saying they are just a little pregnant....
I have inverts in the QT consisting of hermit crabs and starfish while treating the 280g DT, and after a couple of weeks of the QT up and running with water and bioballs from the DT tank the water parameters are fine. I did not have an ammonia spike, although there are a very small amount of nitrites but I am going to do a 30% water change which should get that back in line. Nitrates are very minimal at about 5.

So after all this, would you be hesitant to get the fish, or say ok to add to the QT?

I have an unrelated question I will ask separately. Thanks!

ok let me get this straight. ur DT is going through fallow period of 10 weeks.
while u have a QT setup with good parameters (some nitrites but doing water change to fix it) and QT is housing inverts.
in that QT u want to add a rare fish u want to buy and house it till ur DT get done fallow.
depending on size of QT and size of fish itself if they are all manageable i dont see no reason why not.
basically u will be just watching/observing that new fish as u cant do hypo nor cupramine while u ave the inverts in that tank.
if over 10 weeks that fish does not show any signs of any parasites or disease then basically u did fallow and qt at same time and ready to transfer.
Good luck and safe reefing.

 

[Dr. Reef]

Let's say hypothetically you dose prazi for a fish in QT. After going through the treatment you plan to add another fish to QT (after doing say nearly a 30% water change - I have 5 gallon containers and 36g QT so plan to take out and replace 10g of salt water - sound about right?).

Do you essentially start over by doing the 2 doses of prazi? No concerns if you recently had dosed with prazi and assuming there would still be some remnants of it in the system since you still would have 70% of the "old" water remaining?

Also what would you limit with respect to fish and size in a 36g GT (it is a bowfront/rectangular tank so longer than it is high although I don't have the exact dimensions with me)? Could you keep 2 triggers that are about 6 in. each, and if ok also have an angel that is about 3-4 in.? If so, would you suggest a weekly water change?

Thanks again!

first part of ur question about the prazipro treatment:
u can run full dose the first time then do 30% water change and re dose only 30% of the original prazi pro dose. this is even out the amount of medication.
now for the second part of ur question.
most fish of same species usually do fight and get aggressive towards eachother if so then u may have to divide the tank into halves with egg crates to make sure they dont fight.
also keep an eye on ammonia and do water changes accordingly. triggers usually need meaty foods to keep their teeth growth in check otherwise tooth gets too big.
good luck and safe reefing.

 

[gsiegel]

first part of ur question about the prazipro treatment:
u can run full dose the first time then do 30% water change and re dose only 30% of the original prazi pro dose. this is even out the amount of medication.
now for the second part of ur question.
most fish of same species usually do fight and get aggressive towards eachother if so then u may have to divide the tank into halves with egg crates to make sure they dont fight.
also keep an eye on ammonia and do water changes accordingly. triggers usually need meaty foods to keep their teeth growth in check otherwise tooth gets too big.
good luck and safe reefing.

Thanks again
They would be a m/f pair. I was just more concerned with these fish being in a 36g tank and having enough space to be in QT

 

[Dr. Reef]

Thanks again
They would be a m/f pair. I was just more concerned with these fish being in a 36g tank and having enough space to be in QT

i see cool, QT is like a motel. fish check in and fish check out. i am not saying is good practice but i have seen fish in small holding tanks all across the world. but its temporary residence. u will be fine.

 

[gsiegel]

i see cool, QT is like a motel. fish check in and fish check out. i am not saying is good practice but i have seen fish in small holding tanks all across the world. but its temporary residence. u will be fine.

Thanks for your time and input - MUCH appreciated :beer:

 

[borg1of2]

good water changes will keep things at bay. i hardly use any mechanical filteration in qt as its mostly fish in and fish out and i do 100% water change and clean insides of HOB out in between fish.
if i am not mistaken u did run 1 week atleast of prazipro. if ur tang has ich i would switch gears to cupramine but remember most ammonia kits will pick it up as ammonia so get ammonia badge or do water change 30% daily and test copper and keep it at 0.5ppm.
let me know how it goes,

How important is getting and maintaining the CU level at .5ppm? We didn't want to over due it and didn't have a feel how much it would take to get right at .5, so let it sit somewhere between .25 and .5ppm, according to AVI kit. Should we push it up and get it at .5 or is the lower level going to be OK? We are at the end of two weeks and wanted to add charcoal and start to remove the med, but wants to make sure we've done it correctly.

 

[Dr. Reef]

i have seen people run cupramine at .35 and report happy results. but if u are anywhere between 0.35 to 0.5 and u are sure its under 0.5 then keep an extra week (3rd) to be on the safe side then run carbon or cuprasorb.
how r the fish doing? any signs of ich (salt like stuff on skin) scratching against object ,very heavy breathing?
if none of the above then just run 1 more week and rid cu.
good luck and safe reefing.

 

[gsiegel]

Good morning bnumair. I have a QT currently with some hermits and a starfish. Atypical maybe, but I was treating my 280g DT and do not have the space to house all the fish and could not of course treat with the inverts in the DT. (Incidentally the cupramine and medicated food with chloroquine phosphate seems to have worked well and the fish coloring actually seems more vibrant than I have seen on them but I digress).

Unfortunately 1 starfish did not make it in the qt and somewhat disintegrated before getting him removed. I did a 30% water change, and API test reading about .5 ammonia, but 0 nitrites and nitrates with a ph of 8.0 after the water change (not sure if the starfish would effect the ammonia). I know the API can sometimes be unreliable but I would suspect that regardless there is at least some trace of ammonia. I have a Seachem badge and it is reading a bit above the normal reading although NOT at the green color alert stage (meaning harmful ammonia is ok?).

What do you suggest I do now to keep the ammonia level down? Add some live bacteria? Water change - again? Something else?

Next question is when the QT is empty what do you suggest I do to maintain the water parameters so that the tank is ready for any new addition?

Thanks so much for your time!