H&S Skimmer Club

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Well here are my final photos before taking down the skimmer. My skimmer was off for about a week, it pulled this amount in about one week. But since it had been down for a week, it pulled this in about 36-48 hours. THAT is what you call a skimmer staying ahead of your system ....

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The plastic jug you see holds over a gallon. The collection cup holds about 1.5 gallons. It actually filled up in about 24 hours and stopped because it was full. I cleaned it, it pulled out about 1/2 gallon overnight and resumed to normal production.

I love those threads about high priced skimmers being ridiculous. They just don't know.

There are more pix in my website.
 
Just a quick question. Which in sump skimmer should i be using for a 150 gal + 50 sump/ref. The tank will be mostly sps with a med-high bioload. After doing my research this is the one area where i wont mind spending a couple of bucks. Thank you
 
Finsreef,
Just sent you an email regarding a couple of questions about ordering but also do the insump model skimmers sit on the bottom of the sump or do they need to be elevated some?.
 
In sump models can sit on the bottom of the sump. You water level needs to be a min of 5" and a Max of ~12". If your water level is higher, then you will have to elevate the skimmer until is fits in that range.
HTH
 
xabo said:
Any tips on "Dailing in" these puppies?

Dialing in for any skimmer with any set-up is entirely different. What model do ya have and what problem are you having?
 
I have a In-Sump 200-1260 on a 210 w/40 gal. sump. I've had it about 2 weeks. No real problems, just remember reading that once you got yours dailed in it really began to perform. Would love to get the skim mate production you have in your pic's though.
 
Hey, fellow club members:

How often do you disassemble and clean your needlewheel? I find the lack of a drain plug makes it a bit of a pain to disassemble and clean the needlewheel unless your skimmer is in a sump. That is the only conspicuous design issue that I have with these guys and when I get my new tank up and running and switch my external skimmer to my new sump that will no longer be an issue at all.
 
If I understand it correctly, H&S (and Deltec for that matter) has been making needle wheel based skimmers for quite some time. Some have even suggested that the the inspiration for Euroreef and ASM were the german makes.

From a practical perspective, the difference in the german brands vs. the american brands have to do with the pumps, needlewheels, reaction chamber construction, system effectiveness and most importantly, customer support.

Pumps
H&S uses german made pumps, Aquabee and Eheim. I have only been following the german skimmers for a year but as I understand it, they have been using these pumps (same model) for several years. Euroreef and ASM currently use chinese made pumps. In the past, Euro reef has used Eheim pumps also. They are now beta testing a new chinese pump. And they are looking to bring back eheim pumps for special configurations.

Needlewheels
I have no idea who has a better needle wheel. Euroreef claims to be playing with a new needlewheel that will outpeform their current needlewheel design. But just to point out, needlewheel impellers are not items that can be purchased by any skimmer manufacturere. Each one seems to build their own.

Reaction chambers
Euro reef uses what seems to be high quality cast acrylic to build their CS and RS line of skimmers. In most cases, the plastic feels quite robust. ASM uses a cheaper material called extruded acrylic. Extruded acrylic as known in the U.S. is not quite as aesthetically pleasing nor is it as strong as cast acrylic. H&S uses a high grade acrylic which looks a lot like the cast acrylic used by Euro reef. For some reason, the terminology used to describe the material is extruded acrylic. However, acrylic experts in this forum have described the german extruded acrylic to have little in common with american extruded acylic. Perhaps the description of the level of acrylic used is "lost in translation".

H&S uses quite a bit of PVC bracing to reinforce potential weak spots such as the area where the pump attaches to the skimmer. Euroreef uses a loose fitting with a rubber seal. H&S uses a PVC stand so that the skimmer stands on it's own when it is empty. Euroreef does not and in some models the skimmer does not stand up by itself. This is not necessarily an issue as the skimmer retains better balance once it is filled with water.

System performance
With extensive experience building skimmers, H&S has come up with a product line of exceptional performers. I would guess that they have learned quite a bit about matching pumps with reaction chambers. Euro reef has several very good performers and several that are a little on the "shy" side. The difficulty is working out which skimmers from their product line is the performers and which ones are the dogs. Euroreef is said to be simplifying their product line and is considering eliminating some of the models from the product line. This should help a lot.

Customer Support
The U.S. distributor (www.finsreef.com) for H&S provides all the support for H&S products (in addition to the support you would get from your local retailer of course). Support for Euroreef is a little less straightforward. (And even less clear for ASM). Within RC, the Euroreef forum is supported by Premium Aquatics, Marine Depot and occassionally, Euro Reef.

In each of these categories, I give the advantage to the H&S. The only exception might be in the quality of the acrylic where it would be a tie. My ownership experience with H&S has been far superior to my ownership experience with my old Euro reef.

Ted
 
H&S skimmers

H&S skimmers

Excellent article Ted ! I couldn't have agreed more in your analysis
of the H&S skimmers vs american made units.
I'm sure euro reef and others in the U.S. will eventually catch up , but for now as an H&S owner and an former user of the Deltec skimmer , there is no question about the quality and performance that the german brands have over the U.S.
cheers
bernie lyons
 
Here is a Pic of a properly adjusted 200-1260. I have it running for a wet skimmate, so if you want it a little drier, just lower the water level in the collection cup a little.

1. Open the output tee unitil the two white dots meet.
2. Start the skimmer pump and let run for a full 10 minutes
3. After 10 min, start dialing the airflow valve on venturi until you see a rise of bubbles in the skimmer. It will also see the bubbles expand more in the chamber. Continue adjusted the air until you get a slight decrease in bubble production. When this happens back off slightly and you should be a optimum bubble product.

With the air wide open, you get ~550lph of air, by closing off the air valve, the air increases to ~900lph. An Airflow meter helps with this step but is not required.
4. After you have the air at Max. slowly adjust the white dots on the output to ~45 to 90 degrees away from each other. It varies if you want a wet or dry skimmate. For my skimmer I generally have to run it a ~100 degrees of separation .

DSC00116.jpg


HTH,
Brian
 
FinsReef said:
With the air wide open, you get ~550lph of air, by closing off the air valve, the air increases to ~900lph.
More open = less air? :confused:

Do you have a needlewheel cleaning regimen, Bryan?
 
Airflow adjustment is a simple pinch valve on the airline.
As far as a cleaning regimen it is best to soak the pumps is a mild vinager solution ~ every 3 to 4 months. That will keep them running at peak performance.

As for More-open + less air. What happens is that the US versions pull more air due to the US current. When you pinch the air off a little, the rpms of the impeller speed-up, and when that happens it pulls more air into the venturi. With the valve wide open, it sort of overwelms the impeller with too much air, and does not allow pull impeller speed. The same works with the Aquabee models, you just can not get as noticable of airflow improvement on them.

As far as a chamber drain, I will mention this to H&S and see if they can make it an option. Most people use a small powerhead to pump the body out.
 
FinsReef said:
As for More-open + less air. What happens is that the US versions pull more air due to the US current. When you pinch the air off a little, the rpms of the impeller speed-up, and when that happens it pulls more air into the venturi. With the valve wide open, it sort of overwelms the impeller with too much air, and does not allow pull impeller speed. The same works with the Aquabee models, you just can not get as noticable of airflow improvement on them.
That seems counter intuitive, but if you have an airflow meter then I guess I have to concede my ignorance. I know that the RPMs of the pump increase when the air is restricted, but I didn't think that it meant more air was being pulled in, in spite of a smaller orifice (the pinch valve). I thought that the velocity increases as the valve is constricted, but the volume of air being injected diminishes.
 
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