Halide Q & A

I just bought a 36" Maristar 2x250w DE MH + 2x39W T5 fixture with the Galaxy electronic ballast. I plan to put it over a frag tank that is 4'x2'x1' which holds mostly SPS, but also Zoas and some LPS. I'm going to use the Phoenix 14000k bulbs, and some combination of the following T5:
Giesemann Actinic Blue
Giesemann Super Actinic
ATI True Actinic
ATI Blue Plus

I like a blue ~17000k color, but I didn't want it to be too blue, so I bought one of each and was thinking I'd mix and match one of the blue and actinics.

I have a few questions:
1. Any suggestions on T5 combination?
2. I'm acclimating from an LED fixture - how high off the water should I start? What length photoperiod? Should I use screen?
3. The corals are all about two inches off the bottom on egg crate. I was considering shading half the tank for the softies/LPS. Any suggestions?

If you can't tell, I'm concerned that this may be a little too much light for such a shallow tank.

I have the 48 inch maristar running Phoenix 14K as well. I was recently looking at the spectral plots for the bulb on Sanjay's site and see that they have a huge spike at 450nm (Blue Plus spike is around the same place) and pretty much nothing at 420nm. I have been running Blue Plus for par but I'm going to try the true actinics for a while. I do find that the Blue Plus with the Phoenix tends to make yellow pop but blue tends to look washed out. I put a reefbrite on the tank this week (had one kicking around) and that helped...
 
I have the 48 inch maristar running Phoenix 14K as well. I was recently looking at the spectral plots for the bulb on Sanjay's site and see that they have a huge spike at 450nm (Blue Plus spike is around the same place) and pretty much nothing at 420nm. I have been running Blue Plus for par but I'm going to try the true actinics for a while. I do find that the Blue Plus with the Phoenix tends to make yellow pop but blue tends to look washed out. I put a reefbrite on the tank this week (had one kicking around) and that helped...

Thanks- how did you attach the led strip?
 
I didn't. I just built a couple of small feet and rest that on the rim of the tank. I found a way to make it work on the Tek fixtures but for the maristar you would either need custom brackets or you would need to drill the fixture I think.
 
I just swapped out my Blue Plus/Geiseman Aquablue combo for two true actinics. I should have done this a long time ago. Compared to the previous combo the blues and oranges are much more pronounced. Under the old combo things were pretty washed out in comparison. We'll see how the corals respond.
 
So I am ordering an Aquamedic T5/MH 150W fixture. I have the option of getting either the reeflex magnetic or the aquamedic electronic. I have read that the reeflex is loud and runs hot compared to the e-ballast since it runs the bulb at more wattage. I would prefer to keep the noise and heat down but not sure how good their e-ballasts are. Anyone have any experience with them? Bulb would be an Ushio 10K.
 
So I am ordering an Aquamedic T5/MH 150W fixture. I have the option of getting either the reeflex magnetic or the aquamedic electronic. I have read that the reeflex is loud and runs hot compared to the e-ballast since it runs the bulb at more wattage. I would prefer to keep the noise and heat down but not sure how good their e-ballasts are. Anyone have any experience with them? Bulb would be an Ushio 10K.

I'd opt for the m81 option. They'll make a tad bit of noise but run the bulbs better.
 
I am looking into metal halide lighting for the first time. Not new to reefing though and I have kept many SPS under T5 setups.
I just setup a new 90g a couple months ago and I can get one of the coralife 2x250 halide/PC combos for a steal. Have to replace the bulbs but I'll worry about that later.
It is a 250 watt ballast obviously with a 10k bulb.
Here's the dumb question.....can I run any 250w bulb in it that I want?
Also, what seems to be the consensus on the best bulb for growth? I have seen 14k setups which I really like but i know 10 will give you better. I plan on doing the 96w Power compacts straight actinic so I don't know how much this will help with that blue look.

Thanks for any input.
 
I am looking into metal halide lighting for the first time. Not new to reefing though and I have kept many SPS under T5 setups.
I just setup a new 90g a couple months ago and I can get one of the coralife 2x250 halide/PC combos for a steal. Have to replace the bulbs but I'll worry about that later.
It is a 250 watt ballast obviously with a 10k bulb.
Here's the dumb question.....can I run any 250w bulb in it that I want?
Also, what seems to be the consensus on the best bulb for growth? I have seen 14k setups which I really like but i know 10 will give you better. I plan on doing the 96w Power compacts straight actinic so I don't know how much this will help with that blue look.

Thanks for any input.

That fixture runs double ended MH bulbs, and yes - you can run any DE 250w bulb that you want in that fixture. Generally speaking, 10k is going to give you better growth than the more blue lamps out there due to the higher PAR. If you're trying to maximized growth and coloration both the 14k Phoenix works very well. It's a bit monochromatic (washed out), but the supplementation will help with this. It also has the highest PAR of any 250 DE lamp that is more on the blue side.
 
The ballats on that fixture are probably not the right ones to drive most DE bulbs. IIRC, they are electronic and not HQI M80.

If you have M80 ballasts, then 14K phoenix is the way to go. Beautiful bulb that requires no supplementation.
 
An electronic ballast is a bit of a different animals than a magnetic ballast. An electronic ballast will vary the voltage to the lamp depending on which lamp it is, thus it will drive any double ended lamp out there with no problem. A magnetic ballast is a set voltage, depending on which ballast it is. The M81 ballast is a magnetic 250w "hqi" ballast that uses an external igniter to supply the required voltage to start the lamp, since DE lamps do not have an internal igniter in them. Running a DE lamp on an electronic ballast is just fine, however it's going to be on average 10% - 20% less light output than if you were to run the same lamp on an M81 magnetic ballast.
 
I think they are the ballasts that came with it. Electric hqi. Why wouldn't they run de bulbs if it's a de light.?
I've been looking into bulbs. What do you guys think about the reeflux 12k. I like a good amount of blue but this is a newer tank and I wanna get good growth. I'll see how it pops with the 2x50/50 PCs but I'm thinking I may get straight blue PCs and see how white I can go with the halide.
 
Your electronic ballasts will run any of the 250w DE bulbs just fine, just not to their full spec'd potential as what a magnetic ballast with ANSI code M81 would run them at. The 12k Reeflux is fairly blue and a bit low in PAR, but it does look nice.
 
jeremy,

i was given the same coralife fixture but instead of 250w i have the 150W DE fixture. is there a way to tell what ballast the fixture have? i've been using the fixture for a couple weeks and my corals all seem to like it compared to my ATI t5. the bulbs all need to be replaced and i'm not sure which route to go with the halides. i'd like a radium or phoenix, but i was also told about plusrite bulbs (but have seen mixed reviews?) any advise would be great. if the light works out, i might go with halide on my next tank.

oh and my tank measures 48x15.5 and is 16" deep with the light about 8-10" off the water. is a 2x150w with 2x96w pc enough light for a mixed reef?

thanks
 
Look on the ballast and see if it says electronic or not. If it's not electronic then it's would be the M80 magnetic ballast. Either way you can run any 150w DE lamp just fine. The 150w DE Radium is a bit of a different animal than it's 250w and 400w SE counterpart. The 14k Phoenix in 150w DE is a very nice looking lamp in my opinion. This fixture would allow you to keep any animals you want anywhere in the tank being only 16" depth.
 
The Coralife unit could have a magnetic ballast other than M81, I want to say M142 but I am not positive. If it says M80 do not try and fire a 150 watt bulb on it, the M80 is 250 watt bulb only.

Yes the 150 is more than enough for a tank with those dimensions.
 
Correction M81 = 150w, M80 = 250w - Thanks Jack!

M142 is indeed a 150w pulse start ballast, which would fire 150w DE lamps, just not at the correct spec voltage.
 
Thank you both for the replies. If I do end up keeping the fixture I think I will plan on retrofitting t5s in the place of the PC's.
 
Hey everyone. I need some advice. Ive been yearning for MH lighting over my 120g 4x2x2 mixed sps tank for a few years now. Ive read the majority of this thread several times but could use a little help with how I'm going to get the conversion from T5 lighting to MH done.

My vision: I would like to run 2 250w radiums with M80 ballast over the tank. My goal is not crazy fast coral growth but fantastic colors and hopefully the ability to keep some LPS (e.g. Duncan, hammer, chalice, and maybe a ricordea or two) on the sand bed also. If I understand correctly supplemental VHO or LEDS are not required but may be preferable because of the limited time the MH will be on during the day. I don't have a canopy above my aquarium currently, just a 6 bulb T5 fixture about 12in above it. I'm open to no canopy or canopy depending on what people suggest. I was thinking no canopy simply because it allows more heat to be extracted from the equation.

QUESTIONS: Is hamilton the only location I can currently purchase M80 ballast new? Would LumenBright 3 or 3 mini's be about the best reflectors I can purchase new at this point? Presumably from Acuacave. Would you suggest having some type of supplemental lighting (e.g. small LED strips or VHO) for before and after the MH are running? If so, might you suggest a model or brand/ configuration?

I only mention new items because I want to know what is currently out there in the new department in case thats what it comes down to. I actually wont be purchasing all this stuff in a hurry so I might be able to find some things used. Suggestions of things to look for used would be greatly appreciated. Also, any other suggestions you guys might have would be great. Thank you very much for your time!!!!!!!!!
 
What is a bulb that is slightly whiter than the phoenix? How does the ushio 14k or Hamilton 14k stack up and what is best as far as par. I have been reading so much about bulbs and I don't know how you guys could ever decide which bulb to use.
An is it true that newbulbs have a little staining inside from the mfg "test firing? I ask this because there is someone online with a claimed new ushio for $30 so for that price I figured I would just get it to check it out an if I didn't like it o well. However the comment about the staining in the bulb makes me skeptical.
 
I have 2-250W MH on my reef tank. I've been looking at the new AI 26 Led's. After getting controllers and mounting brackets I'm looking at about 1000 bucks. Is there really enough difference to justify going with the LED's?
 
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