Have ICH looky here!!!!!

The use of formalin was added to the tread after it was first posted. There is enough evidence that it may work that I included it as an option. It does require repeated treatments and a UV sterilizer to be successful. It only works on the imbedded parasite and not on the cysts or free swimming (tomite) stages as they are not exposed to the chemical. Hence the need for the UV to kill the I won't vouch for it as the best treatment but it does appear to work

Both the formalin method and tank transfer methods are lacking in the total number of reports about the overall efficacy of the treatment but the evidence does support they may be a good alternative if one is against using hypo or copper.
 
can you give a recommendation on what size UV (and flow rate) would be effective on a 20g QT tank?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15171137#post15171137 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by uhuru
can you give a recommendation on what size UV (and flow rate) would be effective on a 20g QT tank?

A UV is quite expensive to use in a qt tank. For flow rate --at best 200gal per hour. You might be dealing with fragile fish, fish that have fins that can't fight the current in a qt.

You should look into using Interceptor----I have to go to my vet for that but it should be easier for you.
Alot of reefers have reported success with other parasites by using Interceptor.
 
Once a glass tank is used for copper treatment it can no longer be a reef tank correct? What about a rubbermaid tub I have two 150 gal tubs. If I use one for copper can I bleach it or clean it, in any way to use it as a sump again?
 
That's what they say. I guess it depends on a few things though as copper is actually an essential nutrient in extremely small doses (correct me if I'm wrong, anyone, but doesn't RHFarley dose copper?)
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15184654#post15184654 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by crooks
Once a glass tank is used for copper treatment it can no longer be a reef tank correct? What about a rubbermaid tub I have two 150 gal tubs. If I use one for copper can I bleach it or clean it, in any way to use it as a sump again?
 
To tell the truth, crooks, I've never seen any empirical evidence to confirm the rumor that a glass tank cannot be used for a reef tank after being exposed to copper treatments.

Does anyone have any information on controlled studies or clinical testing that has measured any copper leaching back out of silicone, or is it possible this could simply be another reefkeeping myth circulated by overly cautious aquarists?

Copper is a naturally occurring trace mineral in seawater at an average level of 3ppb.
A 2005 article in Advanced Aquarist's showed different brands of salt mix to contain between 5-7ppb copper, and in a 1999 study, a test sample of Instant Ocean salt mix was shown to contain 115ppb.
Other marine bio studies have shown a level as low as 10ppb can negatively impact the larval development of some invertebrates, and levels under 1ppm can cause a 100% mortality rate in certain species.

So in order to determine if a tank were truly safe to house inverts/corals after being exposed to copper we would have to know the amount of copper (if any) that is leeched back into the water column from the silicone over a set period of time between water changes.
Does anyone have a link to that information?
Perhaps this should be posted in the chemistry forum?
I've been wondering about the answer to this for a while now.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15186414#post15186414 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by WaterKeeper
Joel,

No Randy is an iron dosing fan.

Thank you, WaterKeeper.

I had another read of the "How To" beginners series and what Randy was saying is that copper had accumulated in his system beyond NSW levels. He also stated that most is likely to be organically bound and would be removable with skimming.

I'm curious about this myself, as I have been talking to someone who threw copper in their display to treat crypto. The thread advise was that the LR would now be good for paperweights. However, she set up a QT and ran carbon to remove the copper from the display and did a partial water change...end of story. Others on that thread were horrified but the report back is that the corals were bouncing back and appearing to thrive.
 
:lol:

Remember those highly boring chemistry lectures in high school or college? They would bring up the subject of mass balance which, in a nutshell, says what goes in will only equal what comes out. Since copper is not able to breed, only the amount of copper added is ever going to be present.

Now copper creeps into the tank in many magical ways but the primary means is its small presence in food and the saltwater mix we use in a water change. It is very small indeed but, over time, will bring it level to over the 0.2 ppb level found in NSW. The amount found in NSW is about 95-98% organically bound with the remainder being things like copper sulfate of chloride. That means free inorganic copper present in only few parts per trillion ranges.

Carbon and skimming can both remove organically complexed copper and will reduce its levels in evenly a heavily contaminated tank. If one gets a tank that was treated with copper and give it a acid bath (muriatic or vinegar) followed by several rinses copper will be at extremely low levels and should not be harmful to invertebrates. LR and LS do present a challenge however, as the acid treatment would kill off anything living on the substrate. They for all practical purposes do become either paperweights or base rock.
 
Would the hypo salinity method be ok for these fish?
achilles
idol
blue dot stingray
regal angel
chevron tang
yellow tang
blue jaw trigger
(They all eat like pigs right now so will they eat like this in hypo salinity?)

thanks
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15235713#post15235713 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Iwishihadgills
Would the hypo salinity method be ok for these fish?
achilles
idol
blue dot stingray
regal angel
chevron tang
yellow tang
blue jaw trigger
(They all eat like pigs right now so will they eat like this in hypo salinity?)

thanks

the tangs for sure do well with hypo salinity. Not sure about the stingray and regal angel
 
Both the Blue Spot Stingray and the Regal Angel should be fine in hyposalinity.
While Regals are a sensitive fish in general, I'm not aware of any special problem they have with hyposalinity.
Most Stingrays in the family Dasyatidae are very tolerant of hyposalinity and can be found living in brackish conditions in the wild.

On a couple of sidenotes, how big a tank do you have?
Every source I've come across states that Stingray really shouldn't be kept longterm in a tank less than 300gal.
(Depending on species can grow between 14"-26")

Also, just out of curiousity, do you happen to know exactly which species you have?
Dasyatis kuhlii - Bluespotted Stingray, or Taeniura lymma - Bluespotted Ribbontail Ray?
 
Its a blue spotted ribbon tail. Shes around 4-5" around . I have a 125 gallon but im upgrading in the near future. I know my tank is heavily stock but all my fish are really small right now.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15243976#post15243976 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Iwishihadgills
Its a blue spotted ribbon tail. Shes around 4-5" around . I have a 125 gallon but im upgrading in the near future. I know my tank is heavily stock but all my fish are really small right now.

nothing wrong with that as long as you have plans to do something in the future:thumbsup:
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15270873#post15270873 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Iwishihadgills
How is it that i have an idol in the tank and he doesnt have one spec of ich lol

a moorish idol??---double indemnity I guess---it will probably starve to death before ich takes its life:D
 
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