Have ICH looky here!!!!!

Ah ok, that makes sense about the inorganic vs. organic. I'll follow the label and I'll also use a 1ml syringe for dosing meassurements as opposed to counting drops as I appear to be underdosing that way.

I plan to dedicate the canister filter to the qt/hospital tank, so I'll leave the rubble in there.

Now I just need to catch that ^%$&%@$ eel. They are supposed to have pretty bad eyesight, but this guy sure sees the net coming once I coax him out of hiding with some food.
 
:lol:

Most fish I have use vision correction contacts. It is in their benefit/healthcare package. :D

Most fish can see pretty well. I've even trained some to recognize colors before I feed them.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15391347#post15391347 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by WaterKeeper
:lol:

Most fish I have use vision correction contacts. It is in their benefit/healthcare package. :D

Most fish can see pretty well. I've even trained some to recognize colors before I feed them.

my fish can recognize me from other people from as far away as 6 feet from the tank. If I hold up the can of flake food from that distance they start circling around where I feed them----unlike Paul B's fish who he has trained to run and hide if they see a can of flake food:lol: :rollface: :lol:
 
I would definately agree with that when it comes to regular fish, pretty amazing with my trigger and puffers actually. But my snowflake gets as exicted when one of my dogs runs by the tank as he does when I do. :D

Everybody is doing well on the cu treatment, including the eel. My only problem is that my API fresh/salt water tesk kit doesn't seem to be registering anything, when I know I should be at 0.5. I'm going to pick up a different kit at the LFS tomorrow.

Here are a few shows of the hospital ward:

ward1.jpg


ward2.jpg


ward3.jpg
 
I have a question, if someone were to remove all of their ich infected fish from the DT and put them into a quarantine tank for 6-8 weeks allowing the ich to die in the DT would the ich also have died on the QT'd fish? If I understand correctly ich needs a substrate or live rock to cycle correct? If the QT'd fish were in a bare bottom tank would the ich cycle be broken? Is hyposalinity or copper necessary? How long can ich survive in the condition I spoke of? Thank you:)
 
I have a question, if someone were to remove all of their ich infected fish from the DT and put them into a quarantine tank for 6-8 weeks allowing the ich to die in the DT would the ich also have died on the QT'd fish? If I understand correctly ich needs a substrate or live rock to cycle correct? If the QT'd fish were in a bare bottom tank would the ich cycle be broken? Is hyposalinity or copper necessary? How long can ich survive in the condition I spoke of? Thank you:)

In your particular situation the fish would be dead from ich:hammer:

Ich needs fish to survive period. This is why you leave your dt fishless for 6 weeks (WK prefers to quote 4 weeks) Without a fish as a host the ich can't survive past the second stage.
I think what you might be quoting here is that ich in the second stage when it leaves the fish host might be inadvertanly carried into another tank on a piece of live rock or coral in that window of 9-12 days when it lives off the host.
In the qt you must treat the ich with copper or hyposalination otherwise it continues with its stages of growth and can become deadly in the third stage where it can quickly overtake the breathing organs of the fish(gills)

BTW
thanks for reviving the thread
 
Are there any treatments for Ich INSIDE of the Display Tank? Catching all my fish to treat for Ich in a separate tank would be a ton of work, as my tank is decently large. Tearing it apart is not an option, as I do not have that kind of time.

If there isnt any treatment, is there anything that I can be doing to help the fish other than feed with garlic?

Thanks,
Kevin
 
Are there any treatments for Ich INSIDE of the Display Tank? Catching all my fish to treat for Ich in a separate tank would be a ton of work, as my tank is decently large. Tearing it apart is not an option, as I do not have that kind of time.

If there isnt any treatment, is there anything that I can be doing to help the fish other than feed with garlic?

Thanks,
Kevin
Garlic is all I know of but it's not a cure, it just prolongs the health of the fish. I'm of the opinion that boosting their immune system isn't going to save your fish, eventually ich is going to win. Unfortunately if you want your fish to survive you have to pull them out and treat with hypo or copper. those seem to be the only worthy cures for the pesky parasites!!
 
Garlic is all I know of but it's not a cure, it just prolongs the health of the fish. I'm of the opinion that boosting their immune system isn't going to save your fish, eventually ich is going to win. Unfortunately if you want your fish to survive you have to pull them out and treat with hypo or copper. those seem to be the only worthy cures for the pesky parasites!!


Yeah I realize that, but is there anything I can do. Getting the fish out, like I said, isnt really an option.
 
Yeah I realize that, but is there anything I can do. Getting the fish out, like I said, isnt really an option.

I realize your looking for an easy answer but there isn't one. I tried the reef safe stuff and it didn't do anything I tried garlic and it worked for a couple months but the ich got stronger. In my opinion the only option is the one you don't want to do. But take it from me, it's worth the work. I wiped out almost an entire tank of fish because I didn't want to have to take all the rock/corals out. If I had it to do all over again I would definitely do the hard labor to QT them. Not only did I lose fish that I grew to love the mannerisms of but I easily lost $500+ in fish. (just because I didn't want to spend a saturday morning catching all of them.....) Again just my opinion.
 
I might have missed it, I was scanning the older pages fast. What is everyone's opinion on hypo for a FOWLR system? One that does not have any inverts or much life on rocks or sand. Is it possible if you keep a close eye on ammonia?
 
I might have missed it, I was scanning the older pages fast. What is everyone's opinion on hypo for a FOWLR system? One that does not have any inverts or much life on rocks or sand. Is it possible if you keep a close eye on ammonia?

I would say it would be fine. Not ideal but as long as you don't have fish that rely on live pods for it's survival it would be fine. If you have any snails or any other invert than they are going to die unless you remove them to another tank.
 
I might have missed it, I was scanning the older pages fast. What is everyone's opinion on hypo for a FOWLR system? One that does not have any inverts or much life on rocks or sand. Is it possible if you keep a close eye on ammonia?

I would be concerned about how much live rock you have vs your bioload.
The bacteria will take a hit from hyposalination--how much is anyones guess.
They will also recycle when the salinity is raised but the time span could cause your tank to go into a cycle
 
Is it true that the ick strain dies out of you tank if you don't add anything new to the tank for a year? I don't know how someone could go a year without adding something new. I am lucky to make it 3 months.
 
Is it true that the ick strain dies out of you tank if you don't add anything new to the tank for a year? I don't know how someone could go a year without adding something new. I am lucky to make it 3 months.

This was published by Dr. Burgess IIRC but it has not been replicated. So maybe
 
Is it true that the ick strain dies out of you tank if you don't add anything new to the tank for a year? I don't know how someone could go a year without adding something new. I am lucky to make it 3 months.

the minute you add a fish then you could be adding it back to the system:spin2:
 
I have a hippo Tang that got ich. I had no signs of ich for the past year but recently added a LTA and last week I notice the Tang hiding in the rocks during the day and other unusually activities. I am setting up a 120 gallon tank and once that is ready I was going to transfer all the fish to it and treat all of them at once. Since no other fish show any signs of ich I wanted to get the Tang healthy right away. I decided on the hyposalinity method. I am still getting everything ready to start the treatment. Here is my question. The Tang is no longer showing any signs of ich. I understand just because the white spots disappear the fish still has ich. But she is now swimming fine, eating and not longer acting unusual. Can a healthy fish that gets ich get better on their own? I sill plan on treating all the fish but it will probably be a couple of months before I am ready.

Thanks

Randy
 
A healthy fish that gets ich can absolutely get better on its own. I have witnessed it many times over the years, In fact I think most of the stuff you hear about ich is speculation and we realy dont know as much as we think we do about ich.
 
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