Heteractis magnifca tank build

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14680575#post14680575 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Gig 'em
I got the plate idea from Flighty. Plus it's a pretty easy way to position the nem where I want it under the light and best flow since rocks are awkwardly shaped and sometimes roll.

Gotcha, and understood. Not knocking it.. I just prefer to give them the most natural environment that I can. Obviously the plate can work well.
 
Thanks Flighty, I will try to get some Doxicyclene and try it out. I tried the nearest LFS, but they didn't have any. I'm going to order some off of Drs Foster and Smith, but it probably won't get here in time.
 
If you know any local vets, go to them with the information about the treatment and dosage and they will likely prescribe it to you. The vet school should be able to set you up. I don't remember any names from when we were down there, but if you cant find someone, I can make a few calls.

Make sure you are responsible when disposing of the treated water. Ask the vet how to do this safely.
 
I have a step sister who is a veterinarian who can get me a prescription and fax it so I can probably get some tomorrow. I'm in a bio lecture now (he's lecturing about cnidarians right now :lolspin: ) so I'll have to call her later tonight.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14682264#post14682264 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Gig 'em
yeah it's under the 400 w

To be positioned between a "400 W 10,000K lumen Bright" and a white shinny plate is a ton of light.
 
it is on a dimmeable ballast so it should be around 385. not that that makes a huge difference, but it seemed to be doing fine for short periods of light. What do you suggest?
 
well I called my step sister and she has prescribed some Doxicyclene for me at a local walgreens that I will pick up after this three hour lecture. :dance: Does anyone have any experience on how long to dip the anemone?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14682514#post14682514 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Gig 'em
it is on a dimmeable ballast so it should be around 385. not that that makes a huge difference, but it seemed to be doing fine for short periods of light. What do you suggest?

Dude, I don't pretend to be the H. mag expert by any stretch of the imagination.:) All I can do is tell you what happened with mine.

I had mine under a 175W 10K MH with a simple flat reflector, and two 55W CF's. At first I couldn't run the MH for more than 4 or 5 hours without stressing it. After a while I think I got close to 6 hours and it seemed fine. Over time though, it slowly bleached.

I believe these anemones are like many other critters we keep. Some are collected in just a few feet of water and would be accustom to very bright light, but others are collected in much deeper water. Your lights would be at the upper extreme for any of these critters. I don't think dropping the PAR a bit could hurt matters any. JMHO though.:confused:
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14682779#post14682779 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Gig 'em
well I called my step sister and she has prescribed some Doxicyclene for me at a local walgreens that I will pick up after this three hour lecture. :dance: Does anyone have any experience on how long to dip the anemone?

I've done it for 12 hours in the past. I used a container that I floated in the tank to maintain temp, and added an airstone for O2 and water movement. I also added a lid to prevent the foam buildup of the nem slime and air bubbles from boiling over into the tank. After 6 hours, I did a 100% water change, and added more doxycyclene to the container. Afterwards, I returned the anemone to the tank and placed it where it had been.

Nick
 
Elegance- I hope you don't think I was attacking your idea, I do agree with you, but I just don't know how to lower the PAR. I have it sitting on my sump, about 12 inches from the water (17" from the lamp) and I don't know what else to do other than only have it on for shorter periods of time.

Nick- I'll definitely try that. But when I got home today the anemone already looks like it's decaying. It hardly moves any tentacles, it's completely limp, and I think it's epidermis is beginning to split open :( I added the anemone to a 2 gallon container with about 2mm of doxycyclene in it about two hours ago.

Honestly I don't expect this anemone to last the next, if not the night. I doubt that an anemone that deteriorated this quickly will be able to recover. Stranger things have happened, but it's doubtful. I'll keep everyone updated. Here's a picture of it now
P1040500.jpg
 
BUMP
Man this is aweful, I don't know what to tell you. I hope it pulls through for you. Maybe it just needs water movement. Is there water movement in the container you have it in?
I hope people with magnifica experience chime in for you. Hey magnifica owners!! Does this look like a decaying anemone to you? It doesn't seem like it to me..could be wishful thinking :( its so pretty.
 
Unfortunately I've tried mags twice, and failed twice. Each time was almost an exact repeat of what you are experiencing. I wish I could offer advice as to how to save it, but the best advice I can offer is leave them in the ocean.
 
yeah it's pretty tough, but I do want to say that there may be a light of hope with using doxycyclene. I had the anemone in it all night and it stopped decaying, now it's even beginning to re-inflate again. I'm still not very confident, but the fact that it's regression stopped is a great sign.

I would DEFINITELY suggest that anyone who ever possesses a mag should treat them with doxycyclene as soon as they can to rid them of any possible pathogens.

I've been reading up on this medication and here's a short segment from one of the articles
"Wounds sustained in oceans, lakes, and streams are exposed to a milieu of bacteria rarely encountered in typical land-based injuries. These include Vibrio species, Aeromonas hydrophila, Pseudomonas and Plesiomonas species, Erysipelothrix rhusiopathiae, Mycobacterium marinum, and other microbes. Failure to recognize and treat these less common pathogens in a timely manner may result in significant morbidity or death. Initial antibiotic therapy should address common gram-positive and gram-negative aquatic bacteria, depending on the environment. Trauma occurring in brackish or salt water should be treated with doxycycline and ceftazidime, or a fluoroquinolone (eg, ciprofloxacin or levofloxacin)." -Management of extremity trauma and related infections occurring in the aquatic environment.
J Am Acad Orthop Surg. 2005 Jul-Aug;13(4):243-53.

Greer E Noonburg1
1 Memorial Health University Physicians, Savannah , GA 31405 , USA
 
Rapid respiration,eg open mouth anemone is not a sign of decay, but it is an indicator of stress. Moving an anemone can literally stress it to death, especially if it has attached its foot securely. How many times has your anemone been moved during collection, holders...etc ? Hoping for the best!
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14692724#post14692724 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Dragonlady
Rapid respiration,eg open mouth anemone is not a sign of decay, but it is an indicator of stress. Moving an anemone can literally stress it to death, especially if it has attached its foot securely. How many times has your anemone been moved during collection, holders...etc ? Hoping for the best!

I understand the mouth open is not a sign of decay, but the anemone was starting to break apart. I wish I had a good way to explain... but filamentous material was beginning to protrude from the epidermis. Here's a pic of the bottom of it's foot for example with the white filaments exiting the epidermis layer
P1040503.jpg


tufacody- sorry to hear that. By no means do I claim that treating the anemone with doxycyclene will always cure an anemone and prevent death. But by reading the stories and trials of others I will conclude that there is a better percentage survival rate treating the anemone with it after transport. And with my own experience so far it appears the doxycyclene has delayed it's health deterioration. We'll see if it can regain it's strength though. I would be interested to see a study done on it. Maybe I'll be able to conduct one as a lab project some day... :fun4:
 
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