Hex Tank Build

[n2585722]

I don’t use hydros, but I’m loving the detail in your posts

Thank you, I got to talk with Carlos and Don at the MACNA in Florida and they had good answers to all my questions. There was another new controller at that event that had a booth. They could not answer a few of my questions. So even with the way the wifi power strips reacts with a wifi loss I still chose it over the other one once it came out.

 

[n2585722]

Me too!

Thank you.

 

[n2585722]

I didn't get into adding a new Hydros controller to your account and the wifi setup yet. So here goes. If it is the first controller you may get the screen below if there are no controllers in your account. The reason I have this screen is I used the app and deselected the collective that is normally selected since I cannot use the app with the firmware on the controllers at this time. It is beta firmware and CoralVue does not update app until it is closer to the release of the firmware. Apparently you have to jump through a lot of hoops to get the app updated on Apple devices and maybe even Android. The little clown fish in the center rotate in a circle clockwise. You may have a different screen but it will be blank and not have all the pages this one has. The line at the top that has " 110gTank Hex Tank Garage Testing All " are pages I created, but more on that later. The three bars in the upper left corner just below the time is the icon for what I call the left menu. Click that to bring up that menu.

Below is the screen after clicking the three bars. Any collectives or controllers that are not a part of a collective will show in the left menu. Where it say no device selected here is usually the device that is currently selected. But to add a controller or change the wifi settings on an existing controller click the + sign in the upper right of the left menu. That should get you the next screenshot.

This is the screen you get after clicking the + sign. It will show any new controller and any current controller you have. I have more than show here but that is all that will fit on the screen. You have to scroll to get to the rest. Click on the one you want to add or change the wifi settings on. Since I don't really have a new one I clicked on an existing one to get to the next screen. If I remember correctly it will show a serial number instead of a name like all of the ones listed on a new controller. Clicking on the one you want to add or change will get you to the next screen. Also on this screen at the bottom is a icon for creating a collective. If you click on that it it will create a new collective with the controller that was selected before clicking the left menu as the first member. The first member will retain all of the inputs and outputs that are setup. Any controller added to a collective after that will have any setup information erased. Of coarse in most cases you will be adding a new controller to a collective and they have nothing setup on them anyway.

This is the next screen after selecting a controller. At the top it show the network the controller is connected to if it is already. Below that is a list of existing networks to choose from. If it is new or you want to change it select the network from the list. That should get you to the next screen.

On this screen you wold enter the password for the network you selected. Then under device name you would enter the name you want to give to the new controller. I do not suggest changing it if it is already a member of a collective. The one I selected from a previous screen was an existing controller named CTL 2 GR 2. It is a Control 2 or now referred to as X2 and it is in the garage. It is the second controller. It just happens to be the second controller I got and added it to the collective. I believe it was sometime in December 2020 that I got the Control 2 and created a collective with the Control 4 and added the Control 2 to it. When you create a collective then all inputs and outputs are shared with the collective and it acts as if it is one controller with all inputs and outputs of all the controllers combined. One of the controllers will take over the roll of wifi master and it is the one that communicates with all wifi devices. If for some reason it cannot another controller will take over that roll. Anyway after entering the password and the name of the device if it is a new device then click submit. If it is a new device it is registered to your account and the wifi credentials are updated. It should then be communicating via wifi. I gues this as good a time as any to talk about communication. All the controllers in a collective have to be connected to each other via command buss cables. also you will need terminators on each end. There are two types of command buss cables, There is the data only for runs of more than 16ft and the regular cables that will transfer data and power. If you have a XP8 or Wave Engine in the collective you cannot use the power packs that connect directly to the command buss unless they are separated from any other power source with a data only cable. You can have more than one XP8 or Wave Engine in any combination on the command buss without using a data cable between them. If you loose wifi then any wifi devices will not communicate with any of the controllers. The wifi plugs and wifi power strips will say in the current state until communication is restored. If power is lost they will come up in the off state after rebooting and stay that way until they gain communication with the controller. The controller and any others in the collective will continue to operate without wifi since they communicate with each other using the command buss. They just won't be able to control the wifi devices. If you loose internet everythig will continue to work as long as it does not stop the wifi also. Some provider supplied modem router combinations have been know to stop wifi also if internet is lost. You can access the controllers via bluetooth if you have the app installed on a device that has a mobile service like a phone. Just turn off wifi on the device or phone and then start the app. Open the left menu and click on the bluetooth icon at the top of the menu. if it is a collective select the wifi master. It will allow you to override an output and you can see the status of the inputs and outputs. You cannot make any setting changes in bluetooth mode. That is about it for adding a new controller to your account.

 

[BlennyfromtheBronx]

I love that wood stain. This is my favorite shape and yours is looking awesome. There is just something about the way that these tanks can sit in a room vs the other shapes that I love!

 

[n2585722]

I love that wood stain. This is my favorite shape and yours is looking awesome. There is just something about the way that these tanks can sit in a room vs the other shapes that I love!

Thanks, I am happy with the way it turned out. Being a Hex tank makes it unique but a little harder to built the stand and canopy.

 

[n2585722]

Once I got the second Hydros controller and had everything just laying on the work bench. I decided it was finally time to start the controller mounting board in the garage. It helped that my daughters husband was kind enough to give some left over 3/4" plywood. I decided to use that for the frame. I decided to attach it to the short wall behind the workbench. There was already a media center attached there, but was not recessed into the wall. This turned out to be a plus. I first built a frame to attach the mounting boards on. Below is a photo of the Control 4 and them the relays used to interface with the Archon. I already have the two probe ports in use and three of the sense ports. Also both drive ports are in use. The connection to the command buss is the power pack. On the second photo the small relays are energized by the drive ports which are used for ATO and AWC pumps. The drive ports also power the pumps. The contact side of the relays are attached to two Archon switch input ports. The larger relays are used to get the ATO run and AWC ok signals from the Archon to the Control 4. The items behind the relays are some of the PC4's for the Archon. There were 4 of them out there at the time.

Below is a photo of the frame mounted to the wall before the mounting boards were installed. I had to make two cutouts for the PVC coming from the media center to the attic.The media center has CAT 5 cables running from it to several of the rooms in the house. It also has phone cables running from it to several rooms. Also there is antenna and cable runs to several rooms. The antenna and cable and phone line to the house ended up in that box. We eventually went with cable for our phone so the phone line to the house is no longer in use. The smaller space to the right of the media center will be used for pumps and solenoids. It will be painted white since water will he present there. The area to the left will be where the controllers and electronics will go.

Below is a closeup of the holes for wiring to pass through to go to the storage tanks or to other sections of the controller board assembly. Once I drilled the holes I used a 1/4" round bit to round each side of the hole.

Below is a closeup of the bottom of the frame showing several of the holes.

Below is the bottom board in place. ai did not install the center brace for the boards until I got them all made and installed.This board is different than the other two that will be on this section. It is made for a DIN rail where anything made to fit on a DIN rail can be placed. So it is basically for the DIY section. I used a couple of scrap boards to hold it in place until the mounting scew holes were done.

Below is a photo with the DIN rail in place so I could measure where to cut it. I also had some items attaced to ti to get an idea how it would look.

Below is a photo at a different angle. Also the front cover is off of the media center.

Below is a photo of the board with the mounting holes done and it mounted to the frame. The 4 relays in use are also mounted to the DIN rail which has been cut to size. I was waithing on the end covers for the DIN rail so they are not on in this photo. You can also see the Control 2 in this photo.

Below is from a different angle with the media center cover back in place.

More to come. The other mounting boards I got some photos before painting to show.

 

[n2585722]

To continue below is another photo of the bottom mounting board in place from a different angle.

To get the mounting holes drilled into the mounting board for each of the mounting locations I made a template with the hole positions drilled. I used this and a pick to mark where to drill on the mounting board. Below is a photo of the template. Since I might have either Hydros are DA devices at any of the locations I drilled it so it would mount several of each. I can mount 1 Control 4, 3 X2 or XS or X3 controller in any combination. I can mount 1 wifi power strip. For DA I can mount 2 DA PC4's or 4 SL modules.

Below is a mounting board with holes drilled and slots cut for wiring to pass through behind the board. The slots were done on the router. The holes were done with a drill press.

Below is the board after using the 1/4 round bit to round the edges of the slots. Both mounting boards are the same.

Below is the second mounting board painted and installed. I will install inserts into the holes I will use to mount a device. Then use machine screws to mount the device to the board.

Below in the photo three of the four mounting spaces have been used to mount a wifi power strip, a Control 2 and a Control 4. In the photo none of the Control 2 ports have been used yet. It is connected to the X4 with a command buss cable and it also has a terminator connected to the other port.That is not a CoralVue terminator. I made one using a GX12 5 pin connector and a 120 ohm resistor. I did not want to wait for one. The second one I did order and is a Coralvue terminator. But with just two controllers you can get by with one terminator. The Control 4 has the adapter cable for the 0-10v ports. It is connected to the input connector. So the 4 cables with the 3.5mm plugs are the 4 0-10v input ports to the Control 4. At this point 2 of them were connected to the breadboarded water level sensors for the DI reservoir and fresh saltwater reservoir.

Below is two photos with the finished third board mounted ready for use.

More to come.

 

[JohnL]

More to come

Awesome

 

[n2585722]

Awesome

Thank you.

 

[n2585722]

I added some of the Digital Aquatics modules to the board here. In the photo below a PC4 was added in the upper peft had corner.

Below a second PC4 was added along with a HUB module and a SL2v2. The left PC4 is used to send signals to the Hydros via relays. The second PC4 powers the three PMUP pumps used in the reservoirs and mix tank. The blue item on the lower lest of the workbench is my pocket hole fixture. The breadboard in the center of the workbench is the circuit for the water level sensors. This is eventually put into boxes on top of the reservoirs. The stand for the DP1's is in the lower right. At this point only one pump was in use for dosing All For Reef. The other I was still using switch inputs. The stand for the Intllab pumps is right behind the DP1 stand,

Ain the photo below there were some relays added for signals between the Archon and Hydros.

Below the boards were added above and below the media center. The space to the right of it will be used for solenoids and pumps. There is a small dark vlue box on the DIN rail almost in the center. This is a 12v power supply. The green devices on the DIN rail are dual RJ45 breakouts. I use RJ45 or CAT 5 cables between these and the reservoirs below the workbench.

Below is a photo of the cable I made to hook a Intllab pump to a drive port. I got the cable with the DC plug from Mouser and added a 2 pin GX12 connector. I got the GX12 connectors from Amazon.

Below is one of the boxes for the water level circuit with the cover off. It has a 0-10v output and requires a 12 power source. It get the 12v from the power supply on the DIN rail.

Below is a photo with the cover on. The tube that connects to the bulkhead in the center of the lid come from the Mix Tank fill solenoid that is connected to the RODI output. It has a manual valve on it like most of the tubing connected to one of the brute cans. It was turned off when the photo was taken. The larger tubing is connected via the bulkhead to a PMUP pump inside the mix tank. This is the lid for the mix tank. This pump is used to transfer the contents of this tank to the fresh saltwater tank if the contents is ready to use and the fresh salt water tank goes low. The two greay PVC pipes with the wires are the full float switch and the low float switch. They can be adjusted up and down some as long as it will still clear the work bench. I use the Pinpoint salinity checker for checking the salinity of the mix tank.

That is it for now. More to come.

 

[n2585722]

Now to the pump shelving. Below is a photo of the shelf parts of the first assembly. I ditched the small lip part in the center and decided to just cut the upper and lower rail with the same angle as the selves. I put the angle in the shelf so that the front of the Intllab dosing pump was flush with the face of the shelving assembly.

Shelf uint glued except for center shelf.

The lip was suppose to add the angle to the face plate at the bottom.

Shelf assembly placed in front face plate for a test fit.

Test fit front view.

Below is a test fit with a couple of pums sitting on the bottom shelf.

Below is a self assembly finished without the back installed. I had two pumps on thr bottom shelf.

Shelf assembly with pumps on the top shelf.

Below is a couple of photos of the shelf assembly from the back.

More to come on these.

 

[n2585722]

Below is a test fit of the bottom faceplate and one of the pump shelf assemblies. I also had a couple of pumps placed in the shelves to get an idea how it would look. I am making two shelf assemblies whit each able to hold 4 pumps. I only use 4 pumps on the tank, but I have another tank I eventually want to set back up. So that give me 4 pumps for that tank also.

Below a faceplate is in place of the second pump shelf assembly. There will be a slot the same that is in the bottom of the bottom faceplate between the two pump shelves and also between the top pump shelf and the solenoid mounting board at the top. These slots are for the tubing to and from the pumps and solenoids.

Below is some blocks for the manual valves and the solenoids. The solenoids mount from the back which would be a problem since the back of that mounting board is not accessible without removing it so I made some mounting plates to mount the solenoids to and the mount the plate to the mounting board. Some of the mounting plates for the valves have the valves installed in the photo. I also got a couple of Hydros solenoids which mounted a little different so it required mounting holes in a different location on the mounting plate. That was after this photo which was taken in February of 2021.

Below is a photo of all of the mounting boards in place for the solenoids and pumps. The solenoid board and top pump board still needs to be finished in the photo.

More to come on these.

 

[n2585722]

About the first of March of 2021 I got a few more things for the Hydros. I got another Control 2 and two solenoids for the RODI. The cord on top of the meter is a cable I made to connect the control buss port to a CAT5 cable in the media center that goes to an outlet in the room where the tank is. I actually made 2 of them. I ran a CAT5 cable from the wall outlet to an CAT5 outlet on the back of the tank. Then with the other cable I will use it to connect to a Hydros controller at the tank. More on that in a later post.

Below is the Control 2 on the control board. With this I had 8 sense ports, 6 drive ports. I had enough to control my RODI and the ATO, AWC and All For Reef dosing with the Hydros system. At the time of the photo I had the sense ports connected but not the drive ports.

The two solenoids were mounted to the solenoid mounting board using 2 mounting plates drilled for these solenoids. The plates for the valves and solenoids still need to be painted in the photo.

Below is a photo of 2 unfinished mounting plates. The one on the left is for the original solenoids and just needs to be sanded and have the top edges rounded. The one on the right is for the Hydros solenoids and would need to be finished if I ever need another one. There are already 2 of them made along with 2 of the original ones. There are only the 4 solenoid positions.

Below is the solenoid mounting board installed to check it with the new valves. The mounting plates still need to be painted and the cable on the valves run through the inside of the control board to the controller. The top Control 2 is the one with the unused drive ports.

Below is a photo with the two hydors solenoids installed and one of the original solenoids. The 2 Control 2 were moved some to add some space between them. They run hot compared to the Control 4 so the added space help keep the top one running a little closer to the bottom ones temp. The controllers have a PC board temp readout. These are in the garage and it can get hot out there even in March.

The photo below is is a closer look at the solenoid board. The left solenoid is the Mix tank refill solenoid. The one next to it is the DI reservoir refill solenoid. The input of both of these solenoids are connected to the DI output of the RODI unit through a manual valve on each. The original solenoid on the right is the water input to the RODI. It also has a manual valve on the input side. The water comes from the cold side of the kitchen sink and also has a cutoff valve there as well. The ATO pump is up and running from the control board in th is photo also. The tubing going into the slot above the pumps is from the All for reef pump. It uses the same ATO tubing a the ATO pump. There are check valves to isolate the pumps.

Below is another full photo. That is about it for now for the pump and solenoid side of the control board in the garage. The two Intllab pumps on the stand in the lower right is the drain and fill pumps for AWC.

 

[kharmaguru]

Looks more like you're going to launch a rocket than run that little tank. to the gear junky!

 

[n2585722]

Looks more like you're going to launch a rocket than run that little tank. to the gear junky!

Thanks, I have been interested in electronics since I was a kid. I was a technician at Motorola / Freescale / NXP for 30 years before retiring. It was the same place all that time it just changed hands a couple of times. My job title was engineering technician. That is right under the equipment engineer. I was still hourly but the equipment engineer was salary. So I never took the equipment engineer job. I worked on ion implanters most of that time. Some one used my iPad to tak a photo of me working on one of the implanter in the first photo. The one I am working on is the smallest one we had. The second photo is of me standing next to one with one of the side doors open. The last two photos are of the linear accelerator of a high energy implanter. There is a photo of each side. Those look like something out of a sci-fi movie.

 

[kharmaguru]

Thanks, I have been interested in electronics since I was a kid. I was a technician at Motorola / Freescale / NXP for 30 years before retiring. It was the same place all that time it just changed hands a couple of times. My job title was engineering technician. That is right under the equipment engineer. I was still hourly but the equipment engineer was salary. So I never took the equipment engineer job. I worked on ion implanters most of that time. Some one used my iPad to tak a photo of me working on one of the implanter in the first photo. The one I am working on is the smallest one we had. The second photo is of me standing next to one with one of the side doors open. The last two photos are of the linear accelerator of a high energy implanter. There is a photo of each side. Those look like something out of a sci-fi movie.

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That's some cool looking stuff. My uncle-in-law worked at Motorola as a process architect for probably 30yrs as well until they moved the whole thing to Mexico and put their whole division out of work. After 6 months of job interviews he said to me - "I think I was paid pretty well at Motorola".

 

[n2585722]

That's some cool looking stuff. My uncle-in-law worked at Motorola as a process architect for probably 30yrs as well until they moved the whole thing to Mexico and put their whole division out of work. After 6 months of job interviews he said to me - "I think I was paid pretty well at Motorola".

Yes, they did pay well. I think it is because they were out of Illinois around Chicago and they did not want the union to come into their buisness and as long as they paid well it didn't happen. Before woking for them I had my own business and never made as much with it as I did working for Motorola.

 

[n2585722]

Now would be a good time to get into the RODI control with the Hydros since I started using it to control the RODI in March of 2021. Since I have a solenoid on the input of the RODI unit and I use it to feed my ice maker RO water, refill the DI reservoir and refill my mix tank I need to turn the input solenoid on each time one of the three is happening. To do this I came up with the following settings. First below is the RODI timer. This runs once an hour for 10 minutes. The reason I do this is the solenoids do not like to be on 24/7. So this gives this solenoid some off time. Since I use this with a schedule I used the generic output type. Since I use this output as just a timer it has no inputs and the input count is set to 0. Since I used a schedule has schedule is set to on. I won't be controlling anything directly with the output so I have output device set to none. This will only be used as an input on another output. Active in modes I left at defaults so it is active in all modes. Depends on is unused. I turned on enable advance settings so I can set it to come on more than once a day. Maximum and minimum times are left at 00:00:00 since I am not using those. The start time is set to 00:00:00 which is midnight. Run time is set to 10 minutes since I want it to run for 10 minutes each time it runs. I had to use two screenshots to get it all on here. You can scroll up and down to get to everything on the app. Run count is set to 24 since I want it to run every hour for a 24 hour period. Run interval is set to 01:00:00 since i want it to start every hour for the 24 hour period.

Below is the RODI on settings. I used the combiner type since this is using other outputs as inputs. At the time this was done the combiner output only had 2 inputs. They now can have up to 9 inputs so this can now be done with one less output setup. The first input is the RODI timer output. This input is not inverted. You can invert the input if needed. Since I want this output on if the RODI timer output is on it has to be a non inverted output for it to be active when the timer output is active. Input 2 is RODI demand which I will go over next. The combiner mode is OR since ai want this output on if either input is on. The best way to think of it is if input 1 or input 2 is on this one will also be on. The output device is GR 1-1 which is outlet 1 on a wifi power strip named GR 1 which is short for garage 1. At the time I was still using the Archon for leak detectors and such so the input Archon alarm is the output used as a depends on for this output. Dependency mode is set to off if on. So if Archon alarm is on then this output will be off regardless if any other settings. Enable advanced settings is turned off.

Below is the RODI demand output. It is also a combiner type output. Input one is set to the DI Fill output. it is not inverted since if it os on I want this output on. Input 2 is the mix fill output. it is set the same as input one. Combiner mode is set to OR on this output also. Output device is set to none since this output does not directly control a output port. Active in modes is also default the default settings. Depends on is unused and enable advanced settings is also off.

Below is a logic schematic of the RODI input solenoid control.

Next will be the DI reservoir setup.

 

[n2585722]

The DI tank has three sensors. Two are for control and one is a pressure sensor I am using to give me an Idea of how full the tank is without rolling it out from under the bench and lifting the lid to check it. The first three screenshots are the setup for the three inputs for these sensors. The first one is for the DI low sensors. This is used to stop the ATO if the tank is low. It also triggers the refill sequence. The type is sense port. The Sense Mode is Water Level. The port the the sensor is connected to is a Control 2 sense port 2. It it the third controller in the garage. The actual sensor is a float switch that was used previously by the Archon.

The screenshot below is for the full sensor. The type is also a sense port. The Sense Mode is also Water level. This sensor is also Connected to the same Control 2 on Sense Port 1. It is also a float switch. As a backup for this sensor I have a float valve installed on the fill line coming from the RODI.

In the screenshot below is the setup for the pressure sensor. It is a MPX5010GSX. It works on a 5v supply. I switched to these on the DI and fresh saltwater reservoirs since they need less circuitry. They are in the same boxes as the one on the mix tank. The input type used here is 0-10v input. The input mode is Analog. The port used is on a Control 4 and is input 1 of the 4 0-10v inputs. Since full in the container I use is only 1.9v for this sensor I used the scale factor set so that it shows 100 for 100% of full. In this case it ended up being 61.9. Also since this sensor does not go all the way down to 0v I used the offset to correct. That ended up being -17.9. When the tube is out of the water it reads 0% and when it is down in the water in a full container it reads 100. The readings are dependent on the temperature of the garage and does vary but it is close enough to give me an idea how much is left in the reservoir. The data type is generic.

Now for the refill control I used combiner type outputs since I had 2 inputs to follow I had to convert them to outputs to use them with the combiner output type,. The DI full and DI low outputs are the 2 output I created for this. The screenshot below is the output setup for the DI Low output. It uses the Generic Type output. It is using an input count of 1. Input 1 is the DI Low input setup previously. It is set to active when dry. Active when in this case is the same as on when. The input will show dry when the water level is below the sensor. No output device is selected for this output since it is just used for logic. Active in modes are left at the defaults. Depends on is unused and enable advanced settings is off.

The screenshot below is the DI full output. It follows the DI full input. It uses the generic output Type. The input count is 1. Input 1 is the DI Full input. This one is set to active when wet. The tank is full when the water level goes above the sensor. Has schedule is set to off. This one also has no output device set since it is only used for logic. Active in modes is left at the default settings. Depends on is unused. Enable settings is set to off.

The screenshot below is an output that is used to latch on the DI fill output when it is triggered on by the DI low output. This is needed otherwise the DI fill would turn off once the water level was above the DI Low sensor and we want it to continue to fill till it is above the DI Full sensor. This output uses the combiner output type. Input 1 is the DI Low output created before. It is not inverted. Input 2 is the actual DI fill output. It is not inverted. It will be the next output that I go through. The Combiner Mode is the OR type. I want the output on if either input is on. The way this works is the DI low output turns this on and this output will turn on the output for the DI tank fill solenoid. In doing this it sends a on signal to input 2 which keeps this output on as long as the DI fill solenoid is on. The output device is none since it is just used as logic. Active in modes are left at defaults. Depends on is not used. Enable advanced settings is set to off.

The screenshot below is for the DI fill solenoid. This output will actually drive the solenoid that refills the DI tank. This also uses the combiner output type. Input 1 is the DI Fill Latch in the previous screenshot. This input is not inverted. Input 2 is the DI full sensor. This input is inverted since we want a active signal when it is not on. In this case the Combiner mode is the AND mode. I want both inputs active for this output to be on. Once DI full output comes on since it is inverted it will turn off this output. This will also turn off the DI latch output. So it will require a on from the DI low output to start the fill sequence again. This output uses an output on a Control 2 Drive Port 1. Active in mode is left at the defaults. There is also a Depends On set for this output. It is a output that follow the Leak input coming from the Archon. The Dependency Mode is set to Off if On. If the Leak output is on I don't want to refill the tank. Enable advanced setting is on. Unfortunatly I did not get a screenshot of those settings but will put them here. I posted a more recent screenshot of these but the output is a little different now but I will get into that later. The feed in front of the settings was not there on the original. If input un available turn off. If for some reason the inputs to this output are not available it will be off regardless of any other settings except depends on. Minimum off time was set to 00:05:00 or 5 minutes. Maximum off time is not set and is 00:00:00. Minimum on time is set to 00:05:00 or 5 minutes. Maximum on time is set to 04:00:00 or 4 hours. I did have to go to 5 hours on the maximum on time once I got into lower temperatures and it slowed down the RODI flow. That is the longest the output will stay on before it is turned off and a alert is sent. The notification level is set to orange.

Below is the logic schematic for the DI tank refill. The DI Full output shows as inverted but the actual inversion happens in the DI Fill output. But I did this way since that is the way it would be if using discrete components to do it instead of the logic in the controller.

Next will be the mix tank ready setup.

 

[JohnL]

I have been interested in electronics since I was a kid. I was a technician at Motorola / Freescale / NXP for 30 years before retiring.

It really shows! Great work.