Hex Tank Build

[n2585722]

As stated in the previous post I added some pumps to each reservoir. The ones in the fresh saltwater and DI reservoirs are for dispensing water from the reservoir into other containers for use. The one in the Mix Reservoir is for transferring the mixed saltwater to the fresh saltwater reservoir when it is low and the water in the mix reservoir is ready for use. Below is a photo of one of the pumps unpacked. These pump are the only Neptune things I have at this time.

Below is the parts ready to install in the DI reservoir.

Below are the parts ready to install in the fresh salt water reservoir.

Below is a pump with a push to fit connector installed on the pump.

Below the tubing is installed on the pump assembly. This will attach to a bulkhead in the lid of the fresh saltwater reservoir.

Below the parts for outside the reservoir are partially completed.

A 90 degree push fitting for inserting into the lid bulkhead has been added.

Below the shutoff valve has been added. This vale remains shut until I want to dispense water. The pump has to be turned on also.

Below the assemblies for both sides of the bulkhead have been completed.

Now it is just a matter of installing them on the reservoir.

 

[n2585722]

Now to adding a dispense pump to a reservoir. Below the bulkhead has been installed in the lid and the pump assembly has been installed for the fresh salt water reservoir. Yes I use reef crystals as my salt mix.

Below the 90 degree push connector has been inserted into the bulkhead. The plug on the other side in this photo is where the bulkhead for the transfer from the mix reservoir will go.

Below the rest of the assembly has been installed.

Below is the pump assembly for the DI reservoir.

Below the DI reservoir was almost completed.

Below both tanks dispense additions have been completed. I just have to reroute a couple of tubes here.

 

[n2585722]

I needed a way to keep the DP1 pumps upright in case the tubing cracked and leaked so I made a stand for them that would hold 6 pumps. Three on each side. Below is a photo on the DP1 used for the ATO pump. Besides the dosing pump it also has two switch inputs. Those are used for the inputs for the low and full float switches used in the reservoir. I have 5 of these pumps.

Below is a photo of the tray and back board partially assembled.

To make the side frames I made s fixture and used a router to cut them out. Below is the fixture on one of the boards used for the frame. The board is actually two boards glued together.

Below is the backboard and tray assembled. The six holes are for 1/4 bulkheads for the 1/4 tubing. Also one of the frames has been made here and the other board is ready.

Same as photo above but a different view of the backboard tray assembly.

Below is a bottom view of the tray.

Below is three photos of the stand assembled. It just needs painted.

 

[n2585722]

Below is the stand ready to go with the five DP1's mounted. The first photo are the two in back. These two have the Archon label colors on them and are the two that are the newest of the five. The second photo is a view of the front three DP1's at an angle. The third photo is a view of the front. The forth photo is a top view. The way they distribute the motor power via the buss The power pack is attached to the first pump and the others are daisy chained after that one. No other types of modules can be on the buss after the first DP1. They have to be on the buss before a DP1. The buss connectors are labeled in and out on the Archon labeled pumps and 1 and 2 on the RKE labeled pumps. Either pump will work on either system. But the incoming buss goes to 1 or in and the 2 or out will go to the next pump's 1 or in and so on until they are all connected. The pump power pack is a six volt pack. So if you need to repalce a motor assembly on one of these it is the six volt version instead of the twelve volt. I am not sure if anybody will run across these if they don't already have them, but incase they do I got replacement pump assemblies from Amazon for these. I do have photos of doing the replacement of the assembly also.

 

[n2585722]

I built a stand to use with my bio pellet reactor a few years back. I will have to split it into three post to get all the photos in. The first photo below is the wood cut and ready to assemble. The reason for the stand was I was placing it inside the back cover. and I could not restrict the air flow from inside the stand which was happening if I place the ractor in without it.

Below is the back frame of the stand with the parts screw and glued together. Also the plugs were glued into the pocket holes. These will be sanded flush with the rest of the wood.

Below is a photo of the back frame from the other side.

Below is a photo of the back frame with the pocket hole plugs sanded down and the assembly sanded.

Below is the other side sanded and ready for rest of assembly.

Below is the front frame assembled and sanded. The bottom has to be open to clear some hoses and tubing running from the sump area to the overflow box. Also there is a conduit on both sides that run from the back cabinet to the canopy which also has to clear.

Below is the other side of the front frame sanded and ready for use.

Below is a bottom piece that connects to the back and front frame. It is connected to the front frame here.

That is it for this post. I will continue on the next post.

 

[n2585722]

Below is a photo of the back frame with another piece that connect the back frame to the front. Now the front and back will be connected at the bottom using these.

Below is a photo with the front and back frame connected at the bottom. Now it just need the pieced at the top installed.

Below the top pieces are attached so that bottom edge of the bottom of the reactor will sit on these pieces along with the front and back frame. It has to be offset since the pump is on one side.

Plugs have been sanded on both pieces. This is from the top front.

Below is a photo form the top back.

Below is a photo of the reactor setting on top of the stand. The reactor was a kit that I got from Avast Marine Works. The parts were already made. I just had to glue it all together.

Below is a photo of the area where the stand will go.

Below is a photo from the other side. It has a better view of the hoses, conduit and tubing that the front of the stand has to clear at the bottom.

That is it for this post. I will continue on the next post.

 

[n2585722]

Below is a photo of the stand after it was painted. This is the top front view.

Below is the painted stand from the top back view.

Below is a photo of the stand set in place. This is the side that will have the pump.

Below is a view of the stand in place from the other side.

Below is the stand in place with the reactor set in place on top of it. It also has the tubing from the sump conmected.

Photo of the reactor in place on top of the stand from the opposite side. The back cover can be removed with the reactor and stand in place if needed. Also the stand and reactor can be installed or removed without removing the back cover.

That is it for the reactor stand.

 

[n2585722]

Ok, I found some photos of the stand and reactor with the back cover off. Below is the first photo. The reactor is running in the photos. In this photo you can see why the bottm span was left off the front of the stand. If it was on then you could not remove it without disconnecting a lot. Since all the hoses, conduit and tubing would have to be run through it.

Below is a photo from the pump side. The bottom of the stand does have feet so it does not sit directly on top of the top outer frame of the stand.

Below is more of a back view.

Below is another back view near the bottom.

 

[JohnL]

Very nice work

 

[n2585722]

Very nice work

Thank you.

 

[n2585722]

Back in the summer of 2020 I decided to try a different dosing pump. I chose the Intllab pump since they were inexpensive. I got one to try and after a couple of months I decided to get two more. I needed a stand for the garage to keep them connected without any issue. Below are some photos of the stand. I used scrap wood to build it so the cost were minimal. The first three photos had the pumps just staged with some short pieces of some scrap 1/4 tubing. That makes it easy to see how the tubing will be routed on the stand. The first photo is a top view of the stand. It is made to hold six pumps. The most it has had on it is 4 pumps. The second photo is a back view. The third photo is a front view. The pot on the pump is for adjusting the flow rate. If the pump is powered it will run so it is bacically a simple dosing pump I can use with almost any controller with AC outlets. I replaced only one pump the ATO to begin with and once I had this stand made I replaced two more that were used for AWC. The forth photo is the stand in place on the work bench in the garage. The left pump is the ATO pump. The middle one is the AWC fill pump and the right one is the AWC drain pump. I matched the flow rate on the two pumps. That requires that they are rematched every time the tubing is changed. To do that I place the fill tubing at the tank in a graduated beaker and turn it on until water was filling the beaker. I wait for it to get to a specific mark and then stop the fill pump. I then add the drain tubing and place it in the beaker also. I then run both pumps for two minutes. I then check the beaker and make a note of where the water level is and then add or remove till it was right on a mark. I then run it for a minute and see if it is adding in more water or removing more water. If it is adding more water I speed up the drain pump some. If it is removing more water I would slow down the drain some. I would keep repeating until I was not getting any movement in water level in the beaker. I then run them for 10 minutes to make sure there is no water level movement in the beaker. I have the fill pump already calibrated to flow the amount per minute I want and then adjust the drain to it. So the controller will turn on both pumps at the same time for a given amount of time. I used 10 minutes when I first started doing it. The drain removes water from the refugium section of the sump. The fill adds it back to the return section of the sump. I chose the refugium for the drain since that has the lowest flow rate coming into it of all the sections of the sump. It ran like this for as long as I was using thr Archon as the controller. I still needed all the DP1's since I was also using the two switch inputs on each pump. The main reason I did this was once I change to a different controller I can no longer use the DP1's since they are basically a module on the DA systems and will not work with another brand of controller. At the time I did this Dynon Instruments had already shut down Digital Aquatics so replacement parts and modules were getting hard to come up with. So I was thinking about giving another controller a try, but that will be for another post later on.

 

[n2585722]

Aquarium Control Archon:

Below is two photos of the original setup with the RKE and SL modules in the front cabinet. There were three PC4's in the back cabinet for power control. Each has 4 controlled AC outlets. The first photo is of the RKE mounted in the door of the front cabinet. It also had the display and keypad on the front. This was the head unit or brain of the system. The rest were various modules that communicated with head unit over the buss which had a 6 pin RJ12 connecter. On the display the 19:Temp the 19 was the module number. They were assigned this number in the order that they were connected to the buss. So the first one connected would be 1. Module 19 has to be one of the SL2 modules since they are the only thing with a salinity port. I think I had three of them at the time but only two were at the tank itself. The other was in the garage at the mix tank. In the front cabinet on the left from top to bottom are a SL1, SL2 and a SW5. The SL1 was the original DA module for pH, ORP with a temp port and two switch ports. The SL2 module is the original module with pH, salinity with a temp port and switch port. The bottom module is a switch input module with 4 switch input ports and relay contact output. On the right side is a single SL2V2 wich replaced the original SL2 module. The salinity port on it has a BNC connector instead of the din connector like the original SL2. As far as I know there are no salinity probes to be had for the original. DA had a swap out program to swap the original out with the SL2V2. I was a beta tester so I got the SL2 and did not have to send the original back. So I got to test it with the Archon before the salinity probe eventually crapped out.

Below is a couple of photos after installing the Archon. This was done before the tank had any live inhabitants. The RKE was used while the tank was setup and running in the garage for testing. The Archon is the big module in the middle. It has the new colors that Archon specific modules also have. The modules would still work on either the RKE or Archon except for the IOE module was Archon only. The AVC module might also be Archon only but I doubt there are many out there since it was a relatively new module when DA was shut down by Dynon. Also the NET and RD1 modules cannot be used on the Archon but are not needed. The first photo below has the two modules above the Archon. The one on the left is the IOE module and all it is is a breakout box for the two IO ports on the Archon unit itself. These used RJ45 connectors. So there are two RJ45 cables that run from the Archon to IOE. the two on the IOE are in back and cannot be seen. The two on the Archon are on the lower left side of the Archon. There are 4 ports on each of the RJ45 connectors. So the IOE converts them to push to connect connectors. There are two connectors for each of the 8 ports. There is two switch ports, PWM port and a 0-10v port on each RJ45 connector. One set is on the left side of the IOE and the other on the right. In the photo the only ones used were for the PWM outputs which I used to control two channels of my lighting. The right module is a acrylic plate the same dimensions as a SL module with RJ45 breakouts attached. These are used to get signals in RJ 45 cables to get them to either the canopy or the back cabinet. There are two RJ45 breakouts in the photo. There are two connector on the left side of the Archon in the photo near the top. Those are either a pH or ORP port. I have a pH probe on one and a ORP probe on the the other so I can test both on the Archon unit itself. The three silver cable on the upper right of the Archon are buss cables that go to other modules either in the back or in the front cabinet. There is a forth buss connector that is dedicated to a iTemp temp sensor. That has a black cabe that is hard to make out in the photo but it is there. The next one below the iTemp is the 9v power input for the Archon. Just below that is a wired network connector but ai do not use it since I have it connected via wifi to the network. The connector below the network is a USB port for the USB memory stick.

In the photo below some of the connectors are easier to see. I also added two more cables to Archon. On the middle left are to Connectors that have the same pinout as the connectors on a APC module. They are the white ones. There is a 0-10v output on each. So those cables are connected to the middle RJ45 breakout added to the module in the upper right. One of the 0-10v outputs is used to control the refugium lighting intensity. I also have three of the switch ports in use. Two are for leak detection and one is for a full skimmer. I also use all 4 switch ports on the SW5. I have a sump low level, full level and high level. I also had a backup full level at that time. The relay contacts on the SW5 were used to control the cooling fans. The photo velow also has the replacement for the SL1 module and the original SL2 module was removed. The replacement for the SL1 module was the SLX module. It has two probe ports that can be configured as either pH or ORP. The original SL1 could not be configured for either. Also the SLX module had galvanic isolation for each port and the SL1 did not. The SL2 does have galvanic isolation also.The SLX has a temp sensor and a switch connected. I don't remember exactly what the switch port was used for, but at the time I was a beta tester and that the reason for multiple temp sensors and probes so each module was using several ports. The SL2V2 has a pH and salinity probe hooked up along with a temp sensor. Also on this photo only one buss cable is connected to the Archon. Each row of modules were connected to a separate PC4 in the back instead.

The photo below is the circuit boards for a Archon and a DP1. The bottom one is the Archon. The main board is the interface board for the computer module. ait is basically a built in module with all the available ports on the Archon on it. It has it's own microcontroller. There is a small module plugged into the board that is a Linux based computer that is the brains of the Archon. The Archon also had two wifi channels built into it. one is setup as a hot spot that you can choose and log into just like you router. The other is used to connect to your router a give you access via you wifi. If you want access through the internet that required a DDNS service and some changes to settings in your router. I do have it setup that way. I have a DDNS service through my router and Asus. The top board is a DP1 PC board and the large hole in the center is to clear the pump motor. This was one of the earlier boards and required a modification to keep it from interfering with iTemp on a RKL. Once modified the first pump you would plug in the 6v power supply for motor power. The later DP1's had a in and a out labeled on the buss connectors. You would connect the out of a DP1 with the power source into the in of the next DP1. You would keep daisy chaning like this till all DP1's are connected. The out of the last DP1 could not be connected to another non DP1 module. Luckily they did have the HUB modules so you could do this since it was a 5 way buss splitter.

The last photo below is inside the top of the canopy. There are two DA modules here. They are in the lower left corner. The top one with the markings is a MLC module. This module had 6 output ports for connecting the DA moon pods up. It has three separate channels and two moon pods can be connected to each. These can be used to follow the moon cycle. you just have to use the lunar output function and set the max intensity you want. The bottom one with no markings is a preproduction AVC module It has 4 outputs that can be configured as 0-10v, 5v PWM or 10v PWM. Mine are all configured for 5v PWM for my main lighting. This module controls the red channel, green channel, blue channel and the white channel. The UV and royal blue channels were controlled by the two PWM channels on the Archon itself. The driver board above them powers the 12v strings of LED's. The board across from it on the right is the 25v LED strings. The boards will hold 6 Meanwell LDD type drivers but only 4 are on each. The lower driver board is a spare board with spare drivers installed on it. That is about it for the Archon unless someone has questions.

 

[n2585722]

Aquarium Controller Hydros:

Before I get into the controller board in the garage I will get into the main reason I finally started that project. It was well overdue. I decided to try out a Hydros in the garage to help out with the Archon. I had a project I wanted to try and the 0-10v inputs on the Control 4 would work great for that. The only thing I had reservations about was the way the wifi power strips worked. The plug and strip were all that was available for AC control at the time. The way it worked and still does on the wifi strips and plugs is if communication is lost with the controller the outlets will remain in the state they are in until communication is restored. This was not a big issue where it was going at the time. I decided to get the Control 4 starter kit and a 0-10v port to 3.5 mm plug adapter cable for the 0-10v inputs. The kit came with a Pinpoint pH probe and a Hydros temp sensor and a wifi power strip. I also got a second wifi strip. That was enough to try it out with. Below was the original purchase in November of 2020. So I have almost two years of use on these in the garage in Texas with near freezing temps at times up to 110 degrees at times in the summer. The second photo has the stuff that came in the starter kit. It comes with a power pack for the controller, wifi power strip with mounting bracket, temp sensor and pH probe. The manuals are all online and do not come with the controllers. The third photo is of the controller powered up. The forth photo is the wifi strip and the mounting bracket. The Control 4 referred to now as the X4 has two probe ports for pH or ORP. That is individually set for each of the inputs. It also has 4 sense port inputs. These can be used for several things such as the temp sensor, water level and leak detectors to name a few. It also has 4 0-10v input ports. A lot of DIY happens on these inputs. For outputs it has 2 drive ports which are 12v power output ports that can power solenoids, small pumps 12v lights. They have a max of 1 amp per port or a total of 1.5 amps with both ports on. There are also 4 0-10v output ports which can be used to control devices that have a 0-10v input for control. All 4 0-10v ports for either input or output are all in the same 6 pin connector. There is a separate connector for input from output though. The pin assignments are the same except for one is input and the other is output. So the adapter cables can be used on either the input port or output port. The wifi power strips has 4 AC outlets and 4 USB power ports. The USB power ports are all on or all off. There is no separate control. The 0-10v adapter I got goes from a 0-10v port to 4 individual 3.5mm stereo type plugs. The port has a 5v source but that is not accessible with this adapter cable. I didn't need it for what I was planning on using them for. In fact on that note the sense port also has a 5v source and a analog input and a digital input. So it can provide 5v power and either analog or digital interface for the input device you are hooking to it. You have to tell the controller what is on the input when setting up that input. The temp sensor for example uses the digital input. A water level sensor uses the analog input. You can use a float switch for a water level sensor if you want to adapt to it by making your own cable or use a 3.5mm to sense port cable and then using the correct 3.5mm connector on the float switch. That is it for my first Hydros controller. I will go into what I used it for and also all the additions to it as I go.

 

[n2585722]

The first thing I used the new Hydros for was ATO. First I needed a water level input. The tank was 35ft away so I used an output on the Archon to relay the water level to the Hydros. I used a relay connected to an Archon output. The relay contacts were connected to pins 2 and 4 of the sense port used on the Hydros. I created a input in the Hydros. To create a input click on the three bars in the upper left of the app and it will bring up the left menu. Below is a screenshot of that menu selected. There is a selection called input. Click on that and it will bring up the inputs screen shown in the next screenshot. I did not get some of these screenshots when I originally set them up. The ones from a browser below are new, but I am using beta firmware and have to use the web app for now.

Below is a screenshot of the inputs screen. To add a input you click on the + sign in the lower right corner in the blue circle. You could also click on an input on this screen to edit it if you want. You can also delete one by clicking the trash can on the right side of the bar for the input you want to delete.

That will bring up a popup where you enter the name for the input you are creating. Once you type in the name you wanted you click create. That will get you to the next screen which is the input setup screen.This is the next screenshot.

Below is the screen you get after clicking create. Here you will need to click the down arrow on the right side of the type bar below the name of the input being setup. Once this is clicked you get the screen shown next. The screenshot below should be the last of the new ones. I figured I will go through the steps the first time I setup something after that I will just show the screenshot after it is setup.

Below is a screenshot of the popup menu when down arrow on the right of the tile bar was clicked. In this case it was sense port I was using. These screenshots here are from back just after I had setup the input. So some thing were already selected but I will go through the popups for doing it anyway this time.

Below is the pop menu when the down arrow on the right of the sense mode bar is clicked. At the time this was the list of things you could choose. For this input it would be water level.

Below is a list of the sense ports still available to use for the input. I had already used sense port 1 and sense port 2. In this case I used sense port 3.

Below is the finished input setup.

That is it for setting up a input of the sense port type. The sense ports are probably going to be the most used input type. I think I have about 18 setup in my collective now. More on that later.

 

[n2585722]

And now on to the first output setup that actually was controlling a device. I had some setup just messing around with it but there was nothing actually plugged into the outlets or connectors. I won't go into the first part of adding an output other than to say it is exactly the same as adding an input except you select outputs in the left menu instead of inputs to get to the output screen. Just like the inputs screen you can add, edit or delete an output. After selecting add and entering a name and pressing create you will have the screen below with the type bar. You click the down arrow on the right of the type bar to select an output type.

Below is the popup for selecting the output type. This screen was from back in November of 2020 so there have been some new types added since then. In this case I want to use the ATO type. This makes the setup more geared toward an ATO output to make it easier to set it up. Especially for first time users. If you need more control you can always use the generic type and select how many inputs you want to use to control the output. You can have up to 9 inputs. In ATO this is a fixed number and type since it is to keep it a more of a simple level.

Here we are selecting the level input from the popup menu from the inputs that are setup on the controller. This would be the sump level input created in the previous post in this case. It uses this input to determine when to start a top off. It also stops it if the maximum on time in the advanced settings has been met. It will run for at least the minimum on time once it starts.

Now to selecting the output device. This one will be one of the drive ports on the Control 4. In this case the only one available is drive port 1. Drive port 2 is used on a output but it does not control any pumps yet.

Next is the active in modes settings. Here you set if the output is active in each mode. If it is active it still has to meet the other requirements in the setting before it will turn on. If it is not set to be active in a mode and the controller is in that mode the output will be off regardless of the other settings. So the ATO output will be off if the controller is in the water change mode. otherwise it can run provided the other settings allow it.

The next setting is depends on setting. This setting is meant to override the state of the output regardless of any other settings other than the active in modes settings. It depends on another output to do that. In this case I use the return pump.

Now to the dependency mode setting for depends on. I used off if off since I want the ATO off if the return pump is off. If you needed to use more than one output here you can create an output using the combiner type and set that up to accept up to 9 other outputs as inputs and you can use either AND or OR to combine them and then use that output in the depends on setting here. Using combiners can let you do some advanced things with the Hydros system since they are pretty much a software version of AND and OR gates with the option to invert any of the inputs. I will get into those later. Originally the combiner only had two inputs but now it can have from 1 to 9 just like the generic output type. The main difference between them is the combiner uses other outputs as inputs and the generic only uses inputs. I have several uses of both types I will get into later.

Now on to the advanced setting. Here I set enable advanced settings to on and then set them up. I set minimum off time to 30 minutes. The ATO has to remain off for 30 minutes once it tops off before topping off again. This allows only a certain amount to be added in given amount of time if you also have a max on time setting setup. You can also set a maximum off time. I did not set it here but did eventually. I think I have it set to 6 hours. I set the minimum on time to 1 minute and 15 seconds. So it will run that long regardless of the water level sensor once it starts. Here I have the maximum on time set to 2 minutes and 30 seconds, I also set the run past max on time to off so if the max on time is met and the sensor has not been made something is wrong turn off the output and send an alert if it is set to do so. I have the notification level set to orange. The way mine is setup I will get a push notification on my iPad and my phone. If max off time is exceeded then it will also send the alert. If either is exceeded once you have the max times setup right for the tank something is wrong and needs to be addressed. That is pretty much it for this output's settings.

 

[n2585722]

I guess now would be a good time to get to one of the reasons for getting a Control 4 to check out. I want to test out making some water level sensors so I could get an idea how much was still left in the containers in the garage. I figured the 0-10v inputs would be ideal for trying this out. I choose a MXP2010 pressure sensor. Below is the circuit I came up with on a breadboard. This is for one sensor only here.

I decided to add another sensor circuit to the breadboard so I could track the level in two tanks. The first two were the DI reservoir and the fresh salt water reservoir. Below is a photo with both circuit on the breadboard and the sensor are on the lids to each of the two tanks. The connections to the breadboard in the back are the 3.5mm plugs to the hydros 0-10v inputs used.

Belowis a graph off of the hydros for these two inputs. This was just during testing. The scale is in percent full. I did find out they are temperature sensitive and they are in the garage, but they still give me a good idea how much is in the containers without rolling them out from under my work bench and taking the lid off. Mor on this later.

 

[n2585722]

Now on to the AWC. That was the second thing I transferred from the Archon. All of the water level sensors and leak detectors were still hooked to the Archon. This was in December 2020 for a time frame. The first thing I had to do was create an output on the Archon to tell the Hydros it is ok to do the water change. Below is the Archon settings for this output. It is an On/Off function output normally in off. The output functions on the Archon are like the output types on the Hydros. All the leak detect alarms are set to turn on this output if they are active. If either the fresh saltwater reservoir low alarm, Sump low alarm, Sump overfull alarm or the return off alarm is active it will also turn on the output. Alarms on the Archon do not necessarily send an alert. It has to be setup to in the settings. So you can use alarms to set conditions on outputs. You can set multiple alarms on any output. On the Archon a output is attached it a specific output. On the Hydros the output is separate from the output port. You don't even have to set an output port. You can even change just the output port if you decide to use a different port. The module name is the name of the module where the output is located. Channel name is the name for the specific output.

Next is the Hydros input settings for this input. The type is a sense port. The sense mode is a point leak detector. The sense port is sense port 2 on the Control 4. Notification level is none at the time this was originally setup. The alerts were sent by the Archon since there they were seperate. On the Hydros they were all bundled into the one input.

Now on to the AWC output setup. The type is generic on this output. The input count is set to one. The one input is AWC Alarm that was setup in the previous screenshot. The point leak detector has two modes wet or dry. on a real leak detector you want it to be dry. So if this input is dry it is ok to run a water change. Since this will run on a schedule the has schedule is on. The output device is on the Control 4 drive port 2. on this output at this time the Active in mode were left at the defaults and depends on was not used. Enable advanced settings was set to on since some advanced settings were used. If input unavailable is set to turn off. I did not want the output on if there was an issue with the input.

The minimum and maximum times were left at 0. The advanced setting I wanted to use deal with the timer schedule since I wanted it to turn on and off more than once in a day. The start time was set to 7am. The run time was set to 15 minutes. That is how long the output will be on at 7am for the first time. The run count is set to 3 since I want it to run 3 times a day. Run interval is set to 6 hours. This is how ofter it will run. So with these settings the first one starts at 7am then again at 1pm then the last time at 7pm.

I also have the AWC output connected to a relay and it is hooked up to a Archon input so I could make sure it was working. I also did the same on the ATO output. Below is a screenshot of the graph of the input on the Archon. The extra on time on December 18 was when I turned on the output manually to do some testing. That is it for the AWC output settings at that time.

 

[Reefing102]

I don’t use hydros, but I’m loving the detail in your posts

 

[JohnL]

I don’t use hydros, but I’m loving the detail in your posts

Me too!

 

[JohnL]

I don’t use hydros, but I’m loving the detail in your posts

Me too!