Holy reefer!!!! Dd 250 custom

That is correct Aln - 4 fittings in the overflow box - 4 pipes to the sump:
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1541946
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Most welcome Crypto!
 
Tee - Did you deal directly with Marineland for this custom build or did you need to arrange everything through your LFS? I am planning a 220 peninsula and would like to add one of beananimals external overflows. Also, how far does the overflow extend from the end of the main tank? Thanks, Dave
 
Dave-
I went thru my LFS -( the Asheville Aquarium) they were kind enough to makre sure it was o.k. with the distributor if i communicate directly with Marineland/Perfecto.
I was not trying to "cut anybody out of the loop" - but just to make sure that everything I was asking for made sense to the guys actually building the tank.
I kept all parties in the loop as the the process went along.
The overflow extended the tank length by 10-1/16'' - but it could have been less.
I just wanted to insure that I did not get vortexing directly in front of the intake of a fitting, which would cause bubbles - and noise, as well I wanted to make sure I had enough room to get my hands in the overflow to clean, remove stray snails, etc.

I would recommend modeling the size of the overflow you think you want, or have room for in cardboard- and put all of the plumbing fittings in it, at the appropriate locations.
Then see if you can effectively get you hand in there at least enough to clean or remove stragglers.
Again - I only had one fish go over and down to the sump. I think they know to not go over the top of the acrylic. I posted warning signs on the overflow wall in "fish" originally......seemed to work!:fish1::lolspin::wave:
 
Hey Tee.... I really am interested in your lay out. I don't want a huge tank, but after my 90g grows out, I'm thinking of a 60x30x24. 180g. Well after seeing yours, the layout is very interesting with the overflow on the end and I assuming viewable on three sides. Well I never thought of doing that, but now you have my attention.

So then I started reading about flow and closed loops and gyros and such. What is your plan for flow? I mean I saw your set up, but is it just going to be random all directions, or is there some sort of mass movement?
 
HI TeeSquare,
Fistly great build ,I was intrested in knowing about your return plumbing the extra full siphon is for what reason? I ask only as I am also doing a build with the bean style overflow (not drilled yet) and will have a basement sump like you.
Also do you think that you could have gone with 1''1/2 or should I reconsider my drain Dia? I will also be running a barracuda pump as the return
again nice build !
Steve
 
Powerman:
There are 8 return holes for 1'' pipe on the tank bottom. There are also 2- 2'' pipe size holes, for the intake side to feed the pump. There are 2 closed loops.
The 4 holes on the back of the tank in this case is for the overflow-sump- tank loop. It is powered by a Reeflo Barracuda
IMG_3251-3.jpg

When you look under the tank - there are 3 OM-4's . The center one is the sump return. The 2 on either end are for the closed loops - which are the tank floor bulkheads in the first picture.
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The pump for the 2 closed loops is a Reeflo Hammerhead, which is "Y"'ed. It is the one sitting on the shelf in this picture
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The OM-4s can be ordered with several different drums, which allow you to determine how you want the flow delivered. In this case, the one for the sump return ( back of tank) returns first on the left end, then 15 seconds later the next return powerd up, and so on. The transition is gradual so it creates a natural, sweeping current toward the overflow.
The other - the closed loops, have a drum that opens 2 ports at a time, and they are more or less random in their placement .
Alan ( English Rebel) was kind enough to make me a great deal on his Vortech MP-40W's, so I will play with those as well as a Tunze wavebox or two that I have here.
I guess I like playing with the flow and the current generation as much as any aspect. I like to make it "random - rythmic". The rythms of the ocean - but changing up occasionally to help minimize detritus build up under rock, and in corners.
Hope that helps!
 
Thank you. As with any aspect of this hobby, there is no bottom to how far you can go. I got my 90 a little over a year ago. flow has always been sort of hard. Upgraded and finally replaced all my stuff. Wasn't happy with my K4s, finally took the plunge on a MP40. Wow...what a difference.... then just last week, I figured out I only have K3s!. Anyway, reading articles and such about flow can get quite in depth.
 
Steve:
The extra siphon was a product of fear:bigeyes:! No one on the the "Safe and Silent Overflow" thread by BeAnAnimal had attempted the kind of flow volume/velocity that I had in mind. The principle was sound - and I was convinced that it would work - but I wanted to be sure that I was not limited by too little ability to carry water to the sump.
So - I chose the 2'' flex PVC, and because there was plenty of width ( the tank is 36'' front to back) - I just had one more hole drilled.
The surprise benefit is that by adjusting the length of the pipes below the surface of the water level in the sump, I have been able to prevent the two siphons from "fighting each other" for priority.
The first or furthest toward the back or - left in the tank as you face the overflow is just barely extended below the water level in the sump, whereas the second pipe is perhaps 2'' below the surface of the sump's normal water level.
This creates slightly more back pressure on the second pipe's ability to drain freely. Thus - even at the same -or as near same as one can figure setting on the valve handle, the first siphon takes the lead or priority, and the next one takes addtional water.
This still leaves the open channel should there ever be a problem, AND the emergency drain as an " OH.....SSSHHHOOOOT!" - for an ultimate solution to any act of idiocy I may commit while tinkering:lolspin:

I could have used 1-1/2" flex pipe - no problem. But again - I do tend to over engineer stuff. Partially because I like to plan for the "what if" scenario of if I find I need to up-grade flow.
Flow dissapates amazingly fast once you go to adding rock, and it further dissapates over time if your corals grow well. So - over kill with the 2 - 2" siphons...probably...But - I have room to spare for flow growth - and it cost so little extra to do it now.
Keep us posted on your project too!
T
 
Powerman:
Yep - there is no end to the study of the impact of flow on the reef - and how that translates to our aquaria. How much is too much? Depends on HOW the flow is transmitted.
If you have ever spent time under water, on a reeef the flow can be an amzing thing just to watch and experience. The influence of tidal surge - sure - but surprisingly the amount of laminar flow is often quite powerful.
"The Wall" is a dive near Cozumel in Mexico, and it is like a canyon, where the water pushes you along at quite a fast pace, while you are trying to take in all of the sea-life on either side of you, on the "walls" of the canyon. Impressive.

Further - and I guess this tells on my age - I remember when it was Insisted on by the "experts" in this hobby ( how can we have "experts" in a HOBBY...?) that anything over a turnover rate of 4 times an hour would rip the bacteria off the surfaces they cling to in the the aquarium! Funny how times change - huh?
T
 
Powerman:
) that anything over a turnover rate of 4 times an hour would rip the bacteria off the surfaces they cling to in the the aquarium! Funny how times change - huh?
T

WOW. And unfortunately, I'm not a diver, but that will change next time down to the Caribbean. But even still.... I know there are currents, but never even thought about it as far as aquariums. All I think about is that perfect wave motion or tidal surge that is very difficult to truly create. I might have to give more thought maybe to this idea of mass flow.
 
Thanks for the imput Teesquared much appriciated ..
You guys are up early down their in NC !! I didnt realy think I would get a responce so quick lol..
 
Powerman-
Just one further point about waves in aquariums: CAUTION:D

I know it is cool to see them, even mezmerizing....but they do multiply the stresses on the glass, and joints.
Some manufacturers are talking about altering their warranties to exclude the use of wave generating devices. I think the biggest concern is when guys set up Tunze waveboxes or Vortechs for a "maximum standing wave" in a continous fashion.
And tho I will be using both ( at least to experiment with for a while) I am not going to set up standing waves. Mostly - because my normal water level is 1" below the euro-bracing - so for me it would create a flood - and the constant change in water level would negate the "silent" part of the the overflow design I am using.

But - you can create the underwater effects of tidal wave action - without the waves on the surface of the water.
T
 
Steve:
Well, somebody has to kick start the Rooster (NC alarm clock)!:bounce3:
Thanks for your participation in the thread! What part of Canada are you in?
T
 
Powerman-
Just one further point about waves in aquariums: CAUTION:D

I know it is cool to see them, even mezmerizing....but they do multiply the stresses on the glass, and joints.
Some manufacturers are talking about altering their warranties to exclude the use of wave generating devices. I think the biggest concern is when guys set up Tunze waveboxes or Vortechs for a "maximum standing wave" in a continous fashion.
And tho I will be using both ( at least to experiment with for a while) I am not going to set up standing waves. Mostly - because my normal water level is 1" below the euro-bracing - so for me it would create a flood - and the constant change in water level would negate the "silent" part of the the overflow design I am using.

But - you can create the underwater effects of tidal wave action - without the waves on the surface of the water.
T

I just have a AGA aquarium and stand right now. It freaks me out thinking of a wave in there. I realize the various wave makers say it is OK, but there is no way you will convince me constant back and forth of 1000 lbs moving does not cause stress. I already think standard stands are made of paper. Perhaps on my own stand, but just as you point about, you are limited by water level. I see no reason to leave my tank 6" low just to have a 4" wave.
 
Good points all Powerman!
Now, think of it this way as well:
That 1000 pounds is multipled , by a formula which considers the velocity of the 1000 pounds in motion.
Think of it this way - A hammer , weighing 16 oz. being swung at a speed of 15 feet per second generates impact of much more than the 16 oz....It generates in the hundreds of p.si. on the head of the nail it strikes.
In similar fashion - the water in motion generate tremendous trust against the walls of the tank it is striking....fun to think about...as long it is in someone elses house:eek1:
T
 
Where in W NC are you tee? I went to school in Boone for a while and have family in Robinsonville and up at WCU.

Im a Charlotte native myself. I sure do miss my Blue Ridge Parkway.. :(

Great build so far. Gotta love the "BeanAnimal" overflow. I used it on my 120 and its been in operation for almost a year and I couldnt be happier.
 
Thanks Mueser!
Our histories are funny! I moved to Charlotte about 18 years ago, from Texas. Went to Texas A and M.
I escaped Charlotte 11 years ago - now live in Brevard, approx. 5 minutes for the Parkway.

What took you you the Houston area? Was it against your will;)?
T
 
That looks correct there Powerman.
So - now....what is the REAL impact of the water sloshing around? You will have to make some assumptions as to how much wate is actually in motion first.
T
T
 
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