How do These PAR numbers Look for my SPS Starter Tank?

[Wally.B]

I finally got my hands on a Apogee PAR meter (after much frustration guessing Lighting for a while, YO-YO-ing my lights up and down for many reasons, color, growth, algae problems):

Hoping from some feedback on PAR mesurements from some folks with SPS coral lighting experience.

Also Feedback on PhotoPeriod at these Proposed PAR levels.


SOME BASIC Background FACTS:
- I did many readings with my PAR meter (Playing with various Fixture heights)
- The PAR measurement photo IS NOT my current setup but what I plan for the future. (tested height briefly).
- Goal is to FURTHER improve my Coral Corals and Growth. (Nutrients a separate discussion).
- 5 Fish are hiding in Photo, but plan to add more fish.
- I have somewhat achieved tank stability (Temp, Alk, Calc, Mag, Nitrate, Phosphate, etc)
- I have good water flow, and sump return flow.
- Future PAR proposal fixture height would require me to lower lights to 12" slowly from current height 16".
- I could go as low as 8" to increase PAR more, but for now, good start. (less heat).
- Also SHOWN BELOW is proposed Initial PhotoPeriod Lighting Schedule (current Schedule and as Lights are lowered to these PAR levels).
- Previous schedule was ALL LIGHTs ON, then T5 only, or LED.
- Longer term plan is to increase the "ALL LIGHTS ON simultaneously" period over time.
- Accent Lighting (LED (2 PARS) and T5 only (30 PARS) ) measurements are minimal and could run 12+ hours.




TANK FACT:
- 65 Gallon In-Wall SPS only Frag Tank. (1+ years old)
- 3 ft Tank width
- 20" tank water depth.


MAIN LIGHTING Setup ("Modified" AquaStarLight 2x 250W MH Fixture, 2x T5 (HO)'s with reflectors):

PAR Measurements (2x 250W MH Lights Only)

PAR Measurements (2x 250W MH Lights) & (2X T5(HO) )

Initial Lighting Schedule (while slowly lowering CURRENT Fixture Height to TARGET Height)

- Note that in schedule Diagram Below:
-------------------------------> I FIRST run RIGHT MH light Only (with T5 as filler for shadow zone)
-------------------------------> Then I run Both RIGHT & LEFT MH Lights (T5's stay on)
-------------------------------> Then I run LEFT MH Light Only (with T5's as filler for shadow zone)
---------> Yes this is different than norm, but I do this to control Tank Lighting Exposure TO control a Hair Algae Problem of past.
---------> Also I like the East-West Shadow effect.

->So are these PAR numbers acceptable for the coral FRAG you see and Future? (Go lower on lights for more PARS?)
->Should any particular Frags be moved up or down with these PAR numbers?
->Could I get any kind of Coral with these PAR numbers (or for some, not enough PARS)?
->How does the schedule look (6 hours PhotoPeriod for main Lighting)?


This tank will remain SPS only.

Thanks.

Wally

 

[sahin]

Those are pretty decent. I'd say 200+ (with 250 being the average and at least 350 for higher light SPS) is just fine. Some Monti's are fine with slightly less than 200 PAR.

 

[Wally.B]

OR JUST SIMPLY... share your "Successfull" SPS Tank "PAR MEASUREMENTS" and "Lighting Schedule"

 

[DiscusHeckel]

OR JUST SIMPLY... share your "Successfull" SPS Tank "PAR MEASUREMENTS" and "Lighting Schedule"

Here are my PAR readings. I normally target 300+ μmol m-2 s-1 with ATI B+ and C+ combination.

My lighting schedule: 8 tubes for 10 hours and 2 tubes for 11 hours.

 

[Wally.B]

"DiscusHeckel". Thanks for sharing your PAR Photo.
Helps me understand what it takes for SPS. Even at my target levels, it won't be as much as yours. (but enough for a starting point, since my T5 Ballasts can handle 4 more bulbs so I have room for adding PARS).

BTW. Great looking tank. Really good coloration. Love the color of the Purple colored Monti. Purple & Blues appears to be an hard color to sustain in my tank. (couple of these frag I have were purple).
Man you got some Amazing growth. How long did it take to get SPS that size? Got a before Photo for a Growth over Time Reference.

Really cool to see a Spotbreast Angel in your tank. I got a very small young one not to long ago, since it's one of the few Angels that are Coral safe.

Appreciate that you provided some dimensions, since that helps put things into perspective.

I notice you don't run GFO. So what's in the sump to keep your Phosphates and Nitrates in check? Or specifically, how do you avoid getting Algae at these PAR levels.
I can't come close to your PAR or PhotoPeriod without green hair algae starting, even with Low Phosphates and near zero Nitrates.

 

[shih87]

Thanks for sharing... Good information.

 

[sahin]

More info in this post I made some years ago. http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showpost.php?p=21087370&postcount=10

 

[toothman]

seem a bit low, I had 250's and switched to 400 last year with better results. Par in my tank is 600 to 400. Your acro will live but would grow better with more par.

 

[Big E]

With my T5's 300-350 is the sweet spot.

Smooth skin types, Hawkins, Echinatas, ect. color best 200-250

I don't need any more than 400 par......I run 2 blue+ and two coral+.

8 hours full on/off

 

[toothman]

always like looking back at original frags, this is the red planet on ora plug in first picture this is it 3 yrs later. The picture is older when I had 400 watt halides. Since that picture I switched to 250 watt halides, and now back again to 400 wattt halides for about a year.
[/URL[URL=http://s382.photobucket.com/user/eralff/media/photo17-1.jpg.html]

 

[DiscusHeckel]

More info in this post I made some years ago. http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showpost.php?p=21087370&postcount=10

The table in your link originates from Dane Riddle's earlier work. Some of the saturation figures make me smile, A. formosa and digitifera. Some of my staghorns receive significantly more than the quoted figures and yet they grow like weed.

 

[DiscusHeckel]

"DiscusHeckel".

I notice you don't run GFO. So what's in the sump to keep your Phosphates and Nitrates in check? Or specifically, how do you avoid getting Algae at these PAR levels.
I can't come close to your PAR or PhotoPeriod without green hair algae starting, even with Low Phosphates and near zero Nitrates.

Todays' test results are:

NO3: 0.5-1 ppm
PO4: 0.015-0.03 mg/l (in P terms)

I keep a Deltec skimmer and a few pieces of live rock in my sump. I rely on nitrate and organic carbon additions to keep phosphates in check. I use a product called Tropic Marin NP Bacto balance for this purpose. Interestingly, the product also contains organic and inorganic forms of phosphates to ensure that some phosphates are always present to maintain the health of corals.

I think nutrient levels (in particular phosphates) as opposed to PAR levels influence the growth of micro algae on the condition that the spectrum of light provided does not favour micro algae (e.g. the red spectrum).