Hypo and ICH??????

Seachem support does not recommend using copper at the same time as hypo for stress reasons.

Raise your salinity back up as tmz suggested by no more than .002 per day.
Make sure you get a fresh copper test kit to monitor the level.
 
While it may not be recommended . It will be less stressful than a reinfestation which is likely in the 7 or 8 days it will take to raise the salinity. Tough call but you have to make it one way or the other.

Alternatively,if you have another tank , you could fill it with temperataure adjusted water at low salinity and move the fish;clean the tank its in;refill it and move the fish again to the clean tank. Make a total of 4 transfers 3 days apart and all the ich should be left behind. This is the tank transfer method.
 
If you use the tank transfer method let us know how it works out. I've heard good things about it but it is too new to get it added to my sticky on ich. With additional reports on its success it may be a forth viable method.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14810774#post14810774 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by WaterKeeper
If you use the tank transfer method let us know how it works out. I've heard good things about it but it is too new to get it added to my sticky on ich. With additional reports on its success it may be a forth viable method.

Tom, it's at least 10 years old and documented by Colorni ;) The only reason it's not better known is the need for multiple tanks, and rigorous cleaning/disinfection between transfers making very labor intensive.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14811270#post14811270 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by billsreef
Tom, it's at least 10 years old and documented by Colorni ;) The only reason it's not better known is the need for multiple tanks, and rigorous cleaning/disinfection between transfers making very labor intensive.
Bill is right for the most part.
Colorni documented the method over 20 years ago (Colorni, Angelo. 1987. "Biology of Cryptocaryon irritans and strategies for its control" Aquaculture 67:236-237. Thanks to Stephen Pro for the reference), and if I'm not mistaken, I've read university papers on marine biology that predated Colorni, but I'll have to find the links to those research papers again before I can say that with absolute certainty.

We've been practicing it for quite a while now and so far it has been 100% effective in clearing cryptocaryon from the host when used correctly.
The 10gal tanks on the top of the racks are being used exclusively for TTM research.

tank_transfer_2.jpg


Also, at it's most basic, using the TTM is a lot less labor intensive and less expensive than most may think.
For the average hobbyist the total investment is no more than the cost of what you see below.

tank_transfer_3.jpg


Two 10gal tanks, two sets of pvc, one top or eggcrate for jumpers (light optional), and one airpump with two airstones (the airstones are alternated and the tubing is turned around so that what was in the water is allowed to dry the same as each tank and set of pvc.).

Due to the thin membrane protecting the encysted Ich, all that's required to kill them is to allow the tank, pvc, and airstone to dry.
Rigorous cleaning/disinfection is not required.

Also to answer the inevitable question, since the fish is only in a single tank for less than 72 hours, biological filtration is not needed as in a longterm hospital or quarantine tank.
Amquel or a partial water change are more than sufficient to keep under check the very little amount of ammonia that the fish and feeding will produce in that time.

You can probably find all you need for this setup at a yardsale or on craigslist for less than the cost of a single fish.
It can serve double duty as a hospital tank when combined with a sponge filter, and when not in use can be easily tucked away in a closet or crawlspace.
 
Ok, Ok :D Give me a concise writeup and PM it to me. I'll add it into the first post on this thread. First one gets to have their name attached to the submission. ;)
 
Not likely Ajolie but a canister with around a 10 micron filter cartridge will capture them all.
 
Have you tried cleaner wrasses or cleaner shrimp for the ich? i have lots of tangs and some caught ich and i got a few cleaner wrasses and surprisingly they did the job well and the ich was gone before i knew it!! Just a thought
 
Actually what I'm asking is will the parasites attach to the sponge filters I have in the tank I have 2 big sponge filters in the tank stuck inside my powers heads I saying this because if I clean tank and do transfer method would the parasites be in the sponges
 
Yes, the Ich can encyst on any surface in the tank, including sponges and powerheads.
The idea is not to reuse anything on the transfer tanks that hasn't been allowed to completely dry out first.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14813664#post14813664 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by aquamanSD
Have you tried cleaner wrasses or cleaner shrimp for the ich? i have lots of tangs and some caught ich and i got a few cleaner wrasses and surprisingly they did the job well and the ich was gone before i knew it!! Just a thought

Coincedence ;) Cleaner Wrasses and Cleaner Shrimp are known not to eat ciliated protozoans, such as ich. They like larger meatier foods such as flukes and the various crustacean parasites like parasitic copepods.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14815544#post14815544 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by billsreef
Coincedence ;) Cleaner Wrasses and Cleaner Shrimp are known not to eat ciliated protozoans, such as ich. They like larger meatier foods such as flukes and the various crustacean parasites like parasitic copepods.


Well they sure pecked the heck out of the fish that had the ich or white spots or whatever it was :) Maybe it wasn't ich and something different... Whatever it was its gone now and thats all i care about lol
 
I ordered cupramine and a copper test how do I use this now I have a 55 gallon quarantine tank and how long is it 14 days and do I do water changes in between and when and how much
 
Back
Top