GroktheCube
New member
I too might have used a faux sand bottom and more flow. I do really like my conches, but I know the tank would be easier to keep clean and flow would be easier to keep high without worrying about sand storms.
If you were to do it all over again, what would you do?
- Thread starter Brian DeGolier
- Start date
Powdermonkey
Member
Currently upgrading myself. And the only thing I am doing that has not been mentioned is my sump design. I will have return pumps on both sides. This way I can run two pumps just incase one stops, duplicate everything. Less elbows and pipe to deal with as well.
Brian DeGolier
New member
Definitely a more well thought out sump. I'm surprised more people do not make their own sumps out of an aquarium and use cut pieces of glass for baffles etc. Its so much cheaper than committing to an expensive acrylic sump and if you don't like the glass sump design, you can always use a razor blade to cut the silicon to remove the baffles to make the refugium or skimmer chamber bigger. I did that with my last aquariums and I'll do that with the next. This next aquarium I'll not have a refugium, just an area with lots of live rock with a big chamber for a huge oversized skimmer.
Brian DeGolier
New member
No one has mentioned LED. I'm still planning on using my AquaticLife T5 fixture at the beginning before I start to put in corals but wil need to upgrade from 4 to 6 bulbs. Probably stay with AL, I really liked the fixture.
Brian DeGolier
New member
Bump, any others?
First, I'd say the first step to a happy healthy aquarium owner is planning either automatic or super super easy water changes/maintenance. I've only done really small reef tanks, but even with those tiny water changes it was a huge pain having to move buckets etc.
Second, I'd go see every fish and invert I'm considering buying in someone else's tank first. Nothing quite as demoralizing as buying an awesome looking fish that is either really boring or that you'll never see.
Third, I'd keep something easy to view that supports lots of tiny hitch hikers. I think I enjoyed those little critters more than my expensive fish a lot of the time. Which made it kind of sad when the fish ate all the critters that managed to end up where I could actually see them.
Second, I'd go see every fish and invert I'm considering buying in someone else's tank first. Nothing quite as demoralizing as buying an awesome looking fish that is either really boring or that you'll never see.
Third, I'd keep something easy to view that supports lots of tiny hitch hikers. I think I enjoyed those little critters more than my expensive fish a lot of the time. Which made it kind of sad when the fish ate all the critters that managed to end up where I could actually see them.
brcb7tuner
New member
I wish I would have went with a 48" long tank instead of 36".
goodtimes2
New member
I put all my electronics in an outside panel location and not under the display tank close to my sump. This would cut down a lot of the salt erosion that effects my controller, dosing pump s , auto top ect.
Brian DeGolier
New member
I'm definitely not going to buy used. You don't know if the aquarium has been, if it was on a perfectly level stand previously or if the silicone was cut when scraping algae off the glass, etc. or how it was treated after the previous owner was done' with the hobby, it could have sat outside over the winter. Buying a new aquarium is like wearing a condom, you're protecting yourself. Right now I'm looking into rimless, but I would definitely go eurobrace too so that I could put a net or screen on top. I'm thinking about a floating canopy, I haven't figured out the lighting yet because I'll be using my AQuaticlife T5 set up at first, I may go LED, I'm not 100% convinced yet about LED's, thats a whole new discussion. Thanks.
Brian DeGolier
New member
Yes, either that or separate the controller under the stand somehow by 1/4" acrylic or mdf. I plan to oversize the stand by 18" and higher,about 42" high.
saltyair
New member
Paul B
Premium Member
I would build a structure out of PVC and cement that would span the entire reef structure and be placed below all the rocks. It would look like criss crossed tonga rock. This would be attached to nylon cables that would go over pulleys over the tank. The cables would be on the sides of the tank so they would not be seen. I would be able to raise the entire reef a few inches above the substrait so I can see spawnings and stir up the gravel. If I ever remove all the rocks for some stupid reason, I am going to build that.
Brian DeGolier
New member
Hi Paul, I'm in the elevator field, would this be counterweighted somehow? It sounds like you'll be roping this as 2:1. I'm actually an elevator consultant and I work with architects, I could probably help you out on this. I plan to use some concrete but this will be primarily a bare bottom tank. Under the reef structure will be bare, in the front will be some flat bottomed concrete structure for LPS and zoas. Thanks. I have some of your posts saved for when I start with the concrete.
Paul B
Premium Member
Many of my rocks are hollow PVC with cement over them. I replaced most of the rock I collected with this as it looks better and I can customize it. I also have built some dumbwaiters and have it figured out, yes it will be counterweighted as my lighting system is as it also floats up out of the way. I just am not ready to remove everything in the tank to do this and I have to build the structure first. But I think it would be an interesting project.
I agree. In fact my top 5 reef tank 'waste of money' are:
1. 'live' sand - good old dead sand will be live soon enough, and it's much cheaper
2. custom/expensive sump - why? may look nice initially, but will be all gummed up wit salt creep and detritus shortly
3. ORP meter/controller - completely useless IME; what do you do if the reading low?
4. Falling for the 'newest thing in skimmer innovation' marketing spin - 'nuff said
5. Salt specially formulated for reefs - reefs thrive in the same water as fish in the oceans
guserto4
Member
I think having a serious QT setup and long routine is crucial- I got brook by skimping when I knew better. That took down my whole tank nearly as fast as I could ID it. Though the "in the works" rebuild is only 100g DT (for now) the system will be 250g+ and will have a couple of tanks dry but setup and 'plumbed in' so that if somebody looks sick OR if one of my LFS's has a sale I can make a purchase, get home and turn a valve to fill DT water into the QT, pull a sponge from the sump, stick it in the ready-and-waiting HOB filter and be in business before I take my jacket off. It's gotten to the point with designing this ultimate 'foolproof' (HA) system that operation, maintenance and catastrophe preparedness are now my favorite parts of the hobby.
