If you've successfully kept a Kole Yellow-Eyed tang through QT...

[Dr Colliebreath]

Your fish apparently is eating ok and I assume your water is fine because you mentioned testing, so here is what I would do. First, LA knows what they are doing, so I would follow their medication advice. As you note, remove the carbon before medicating. Second, I would give it full light starting tomorrow morning. When introducing light to my QT, I angle the light fixture so that about half the light goes in the tank and then turn it on, and then after waiting a couple of minutes I move the light so that it is all on the tank. You should be fine using only one of the bulbs.

My thought, acknowledging that I haven't seen your fish, is that part of the shyness is due either to the fish being sick or not having normal daylight. Fish are more skittish and hide when they don't feel well (e.g., when you first start dosing copper), presumably because they know they are more vulnerable. I also think they are more prone to hiding in very low light conditions (e.g., on overcast days before my light is on), possibly because it is signaling time to bed down or a dangerous time as many predators hunt around sunset or dawn. Think what happens when you turn a light on in a dark room - your fish dart around and hide. Your fish has been without "daylight" for more than a week.

Sit in front of your tank (say 5-6 feet away) so that your fish gets used to your being there. Also, hang around in front of the tank after feeding as fish tend to be more bold when they are hungry.

It may take a while, but tangs tend to be pretty outgoing so yours should come around if it is healthy.

 

[iwishtofish]

Great fish. Really ich resistant for tangs. Not as aggressive as other tangs. I had one for five years and fed Nori, No. 2 pellets and occasionally Prime Reef. Ate like a pig all the time!

I knew I picked the right fish! I haven't tried any foods yet other than mysis and IO Seaweed Blend packs. I'll pick up some nori! What brand pellets did you use?

Your fish apparently is eating ok and I assume your water is fine because you mentioned testing, so here is what I would do. First, LA knows what they are doing, so I would follow their medication advice. As you note, remove the carbon before medicating. Second, I would give it full light starting tomorrow morning. When introducing light to my QT, I angle the light fixture so that about half the light goes in the tank and then turn it on, and then after waiting a couple of minutes I move the light so that it is all on the tank. You should be fine using only one of the bulbs.

My thought, acknowledging that I haven't seen your fish, is that part of the shyness is due either to the fish being sick or not having normal daylight. Fish are more skittish and hide when they don't feel well (e.g., when you first start dosing copper), presumably because they know they are more vulnerable. I also think they are more prone to hiding in very low light conditions (e.g., on overcast days before my light is on), possibly because it is signaling time to bed down or a dangerous time as many predators hunt around sunset or dawn. Think what happens when you turn a light on in a dark room - your fish dart around and hide. Your fish has been without "daylight" for more than a week.

Sit in front of your tank (say 5-6 feet away) so that your fish gets used to your being there. Also, hang around in front of the tank after feeding as fish tend to be more bold when they are hungry.

It may take a while, but tangs tend to be pretty outgoing so yours should come around if it is healthy.

Thanks you very much for the information! I will try all you suggest to acclimate the fish to me, starting with the light in the morning. I think I'll put the white bulb back in (unless you think that's a bad idea), as the blue bulb doesn't seem to cast much light.

The fish seems to be getting a little bolder each day. I'm eager to see the changes brought on by the lights.

Medicine under way, with carbon out.

 

[Dr Colliebreath]

Definitely go with the white bulb.

I use and like NLS pellets. Your fish may or may not like them.

I would try Rod's food. That and mysis are a good combination to start, along with some greens. I recently have been using Omega One Spirulina flakes.

I have a small piece of live rock with a piece of fishing line tied to it (actually, tied to one of those electrical ties). I rubberband small pieces of nori to it for my tang to eat while in quarantine.

 

[iwishtofish]

Definitely go with the white bulb.

I use and like NLS pellets. Your fish may or may not like them.

I would try Rod's food. That and mysis are a good combination to start, along with some greens. I recently have been using Omega One Spirulina flakes.

I have a small piece of live rock with a piece of fishing line tied to it (actually, tied to one of those electrical ties). I rubberband small pieces of nori to it for my tang to eat while in quarantine.

Thank you. I'll research where to get Rod's food around here. By "greens," do you mean romain lettuce, or something like that?

After watching this fish eat, and gnaw at the algae on the glass, I have this feeling it is not going to be terribly picky!

I have to watch for ammonia carefully, I think, as the bacteria in my biowheel might get zapped by the Maracyn 2. Rather than just watch the ammonia badge, perhaps I should break out the test kit daily. I'm also hoping my oxygen levels are ok. I have the HOB w/biowheel (which doesn't create a lot of commotion on the surface - probably more so inside the filter), and a Koralia 2 powerhead low in the tank that boils the surface very gently. I have an air pump and airstone, but I'm afraid adding it now would really freak out the fish.

 

[iwishtofish]

I turned the lights on this morning. The KYET is just peeking out of his pipe, snagging algae food as it goes by.

I wonder if I should add the airstone, as the meds might reduce O2 in the water. Maybe it's worth it to freak out the fish further for something so important...

 

[Dr Colliebreath]

I like an airstone in a QT even though it is a pain to deal with the salt creep and you must watch your salinity. I think you will be ok adding the airstone now and doubt it will bother the fish other than the first couple of minutes when you are lowering it into the tank.

Definitely test for ammonia daily until you are sure your biofilter is sufficiently developed to keep ammonia in check and is holding up with the introduction of the antibiotic.

By greens, I just meant something like spirulina or another algae or nori. You can get nori from a fish store or an Asian food market (get some that isn't roasted or otherwise flavored).

 

[Dr Colliebreath]

Why don't you get some nori and rubberband it to a small piece of rock and put that in the tank? It sounds like your like might get comfortable going out from its hiding place to eat if it is picking at algae on the glass. Tie a piece of fishing line to the rock so you can put the rock in and out easily and use a 2" by 1/2" piece of nori.

 

[iwishtofish]

I like an airstone in a QT even though it is a pain to deal with the salt creep and you must watch your salinity. I think you will be ok adding the airstone now and doubt it will bother the fish other than the first couple of minutes when you are lowering it into the tank.

Definitely test for ammonia daily until you are sure your biofilter is sufficiently developed to keep ammonia in check and is holding up with the introduction of the antibiotic.

By greens, I just meant something like spirulina or another algae or nori. You can get nori from a fish store or an Asian food market (get some that isn't roasted or otherwise flavored).

Why don't you get some nori and rubberband it to a small piece of rock and put that in the tank? It sounds like your like might get comfortable going out from its hiding place to eat if it is picking at algae on the glass. Tie a piece of fishing line to the rock so you can put the rock in and out easily and use a 2" by 1/2" piece of nori.

I think I will add the airstone soon. The fish is breathing a bit more rapidly than I like - about 2 cycles/sec. I have to admit, though, that I do not know what is normal.

It is indeed coming out much more now with the light. It is fat, and eating like a pig. The ragged (shaped) white patch on its side is ugly, and there is a much smaller blemish on the other side. I put in the second dose of Maracyn 2 today. I think its color is good, otherwise. It is an inquisitive fish, as well.

I will test for ammonia tonight (badge still shows ok), and maybe I'll get a chance to hit up Petco for some nori. No asian market within 45 minutes, I'm pretty sure. Thank you, again.

 

[iwishtofish]

Mr. Curious

 

[iwishtofish]

Ammonia badge says all ok with ammonia. However, I just tested .25 with an API kit. Not pleased. I'll test again, and if I get the same results, I'll use some Prime and and consider the next step.

I guess the biofilter may have been nuked by the Maracyn 2.

 

[iwishtofish]

Well, same result. That's pretty toxic, if the test kit is correct, so I filled a big cup with QT tank water, added 40 drops of Prime (per dose instructions), stirred it, and poured it in the QT.

I suppose I'll be needing to do water changes while I continue the antibiotic regimen. That will screw with the dose, but that's better than ammonia.

 

[Dr Colliebreath]

Yes, you should get that ammonia down as quickly as possible with water changes. That may be part of the problem with the fish hiding as it probably feels stressed from the ammonia.

Your biofilter may still be ramping up. There is bacteria on the wheel from being in your sump, but it may have been too low of a concentration to fully take care of the waste produced by the tang. Also, the biofilters are designed to work with a lot of water flow and, in the case of your biowheel, the oxygen from the air as it turns, so it would not develop the maximum amount of bacteria passively setting in your sump. While I am stocking my tank, I try to keep a fully cycled QT available to avoid the ramping up stage.

Many of the koles I have seen at fish stores hide at first or stay towards the back of the tank if there is nowhere to hide, pacing back and forth in a sign of stress. I stopped by my lfs this evening and their 4 koles were hiding if something was available and at the back of the tank otherwise.

Other than the patches on the sides, your fish looks pretty good in the picture. Good color, posture and eyes. Get the ammonia under control and give the fish a couple of weeks and I bet it turns into a good addition to your tank.

 

[iwishtofish]

Frank, encouraging words. I'm about to do a 25% water change, and then immediately after mix one for tomorrow afternoon, I guess.

Do you think I should keep adding the Maracyn doses? They will, obviously, be diluted now, considering I'll likely do daily water changes.

 

[Dr Colliebreath]

I would do another water change tomorrow and check your ammonia level, and then add more Maracyn rather than upping the dose now and taking 25% out in less than 24 hours.

You took 25% of the Maracyn out today and if you do another 25% water change will take 25% of the remaining 75%. If my calculation is right, you will take a bit less than 45% of the Maracyn out with the two water changes so you need to add that much back. I would try to balance the water changes and topping up the Maracyn, but if you can't get the ammonia under control in a couple of days I would stop the Maracyn until the ammonia pretty much disappears. After the ammonia disappears, I would test for nitrites every other day for a week to make sure you aren't going through a complete cycle. It isn't likely, but if you see much nitrite you will want to continue with water changes to manage it.

I would send your picture to LA plus any clearer ones you can get of the fish's side so they have a better idea of what might be wrong and can refine their medication advice if necessary. They are a great resource for you to rely on.

 

[iwishtofish]

Ok, thanks for your help tonight. I'll get to work.

 

[rssjsb]

Hmm. Looking at that picture, that does look like an ulceration of some sort. Maybe he's scraped himself when trying to hide from you. Which, as others have said, is very typical for these fish. My foxface is the only fish I've ever had who was more skittish than the kole.

Anyway I would definitely keep up the maracyn treatment.

Have you been monitoring ph? The airstone should help with that, too, but you might want to take a look.

 

[iwishtofish]

Hmm. Looking at that picture, that does look like an ulceration of some sort. Maybe he's scraped himself when trying to hide from you. Which, as others have said, is very typical for these fish. My foxface is the only fish I've ever had who was more skittish than the kole.

Anyway I would definitely keep up the maracyn treatment.

Have you been monitoring ph? The airstone should help with that, too, but you might want to take a look.

Robin, I think you are likely right that it's an injury. I'll keep up with the maracyn.

I have not been monitoring pH as closely as I should. I did test it this evening however, and was surprised to read 8.4. That is, if I read the API test kit correctly.

Regarding the skittishness, I am very fearful of the day when the time comes to try to transfer him!

 

[iwishtofish]

Did the 2nd water change this morning, and then added a daily does of Maracyn 2. I decided to not try to calculate how much I diluted out of the water, for fear of an overdose.

Thought I'd take a picture of the bite marks. Just something new to me, haha. That fish has some choppers!

(The little "swirl" is from the water change hose.)

 

[iwishtofish]

I sent the photo of the fish to LiveAquaria, and they believe the wound is a scrape of sorts that should heal. They recommended discontinuing the antibiotic treatment, and just concentrating on water quality. They believe the fish looks otherwise healthy, and are pleased it is eating well.

I installed an airstone this evening. The fish is still getting used to it.

Ammonia is still registering on the test kit after two 25% water changes, but some of it may still be detoxified by the Prime. I'll do another 25% change first thing in the morning. Once the antibiotic is out of the system, I'm going to treat with Prazipro for flukes. The fish is still breathing a little heavy - at least I think it is, so maybe that is the problem.

I also picked up some nori.

 

[bellis31]

I sent the photo of the fish to LiveAquaria, and they believe the wound is a scrape of sorts that should heal. They recommended discontinuing the antibiotic treatment, and just concentrating on water quality. They believe the fish looks otherwise healthy, and are pleased it is eating well.

I installed an airstone this evening. The fish is still getting used to it.

Ammonia is still registering on the test kit after two 25% water changes, but some of it may still be detoxified by the Prime. I'll do another 25% change first thing in the morning. Once the antibiotic is out of the system, I'm going to treat with Prazipro for flukes. The fish is still breathing a little heavy - at least I think it is, so maybe that is the problem.

I also picked up some nori.

Have you tested your DT with your kit to be sure that it's not just registering ammonia that's not there?

I know my DT has no ammonia so I always check my QT test against that tank just to be sure.

Just curious, it sucks to do water changes when ya don't have to!