In need of a good QT protocol

alprazo said:
For all fish. I treat with Chloroquine, praziquantel and dimilin. This should cover 95% of parasites. Some worms will be resistant to this regimen but typically are not lethal to their host. For new fish in a newly setup bare tank I treat 10 days for CP, 28 of prazi and 60 days for dimilin. If a fish cant go through this protocol it doesn't belong in the DT.

TTM seems to be a favorite here, but it only treats ich. Nothing else. It may delay the symptoms of velvet and possibly confer some immunity tricking you to believe the fish is clear. Once placed into the display the fish becomes a Trojan horse for velvet.
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a few questions:

1. Would you consider New Era ick shield acceptable to use for CP?
2. Where would i get Dimilin? A quick google search suggests its used in Koi ponds?
3. Are these dosed in confuction with each other or do you first do 10 days of CP, remove chloroquine then dose prazi for 28 days...remove then dimilin for 60 or is it a total of 60 for everything?

This protocol sounds very doable espcially with multiple fish.
 
tassod said:
Would you mind sharing your QT protocol for fish?
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It has changed over the years. Until 2000, nothing, just rolled the dice and lost. When I got smart i started using copper; however, I killed many fish in QT, but it was still better than nothing. About 3 years ago I started using TTM, followed by 2 weeks observation, no medication. I'm 100% successful getting fish throught qt alive and parasite free. Recently, with the help of some here, i added two formalin dips between transfers. I thought i had a blenny with brook, but was wrong; however i think my protocol improved with the formalin dip.
 
alprazo said:
For all fish. I treat with Chloroquine, praziquantel and dimilin. This should cover 95% of parasites. Some worms will be resistant to this regimen but typically are not lethal to their host. For new fish in a newly setup bare tank I treat 10 days for CP, 28 of prazi and 60 days for dimilin. If a fish cant go through this protocol it doesn't belong in the DT.

TTM seems to be a favorite here, but it only treats ich. Nothing else. It may delay the symptoms of velvet and possibly confer some immunity tricking you to believe the fish is clear. Once placed into the display the fish becomes a Trojan horse for velvet.
Click to expand...

I'm just doing a CP and PraziPro treatment on some fish. Is it normal that some stop eating?
 
Dimilin for koi is the same stuff. About as harmless to fish as a medication can be. I treat all concurrent. I have not used ich shield. I have used this triple cocktail for years. The only change is decreasing CP to 10 days from 30. Actually with new protocol it is only 24 days of prazi.
 
alprazo said:
Dimilin for koi is the same stuff. About as harmless to fish as a medication can be. I treat all concurrent. I have not used ich shield. I have used this triple cocktail for years. The only change is decreasing CP to 10 days from 30. Actually with new protocol it is only 24 days of prazi.
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So after 10 days do you do a water change and run carbon and run lights to get rid of the CP and redose dimilin and prazi?
 
Louis Z said:
Spar , let me explain better. I keep mollies in there just enough to become infection hosts to draw the cysts into hatching . Excuse if I am wrong but somewhere in the long threads I think I read that the cysts will hatch if they sense a host. I want them to hatch and come out thus being susceptible to the TTM. If need be run the TTM fo a little longer. And remove them once TTM is finished and let QT run fallow . Well I maybe a little crazy so forgive me if it sounds ridiculous.
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I am not aware of any research that suggests fish cause cysts to hatch. Without a fish host, the hatched ich becomes non-infectious (conservatively 48 hours at most, but most likely much sooner) hence the need to go fallow until all cysts have hatched, which breaks the cycle.
 
HumbleFish said:
For corals/inverts, your best bet is a fishless frag tank at least 10' away from the DT. 40 breeders work really well for this purpose. I opted to keep mine simple ... HOB filter/skimmer, a Koralia for additional circulation, and a cheap T5 lighting system. QT all corals/inverts in there for 72 days before introducing them into your DT.

For fish, there are a lot of different options. I will admit if you have the time and don't mind the extra work, TTM can't be beat. Dose Prazipro at the onset of transfers 2 & 4, and then observe (for velvet, bacterial infections, etc.) for an additional 30 days after TTM is complete. So, roughly 6 weeks QT in total.
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Deinonych said:
+1 on both counts. I keep my QTs in completely separate areas of the house. My coral/invert QT is a 20H with HOB filter, powerhead and T5 lighting. It's a fully-cycled full-time QT with sand, LR and a few snails for cleanup. Works just fine for 72 days, even for most SPS (haven't tried Acropora yet).

For fish, I do 2 rounds of Prazipro, followed by TTM and 1-2 weeks of observation. It is extra work, but the peace of mind more than makes up for it.
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Please forgive my dumbness but why is there a need to keep a fishless frag tank away from the DT?
 
I wouldn't recommend quarantine of an anemone with corals . If it moves or the emerald crab moves the rock it's on then it comes in contact with other corals. Silly mistake , it was fine for the first month yet when I added The Hulk emerald crab movement now is daily . Next project this wknd is to elevate all the corals higher.
 
Sk8r said:
Number one, buy from 'clean sources', those that advertise a guarantee on their livestock being a fair guide.
Number two, don't buy one fish after another. Haste in stocking a tank may multiply the problem.
Number three, go the FULL quarantine time, or a little over.
Number four, be aware which species are ich magnets (tangs, angels, rabbits) and be extra careful.
Number five, know what the parasites look like.
Number six, constantly track your tank alkalinity: 8.3 dkh. A tank that goes off from that figure may stress out the slime coat of the fish, which lowers their physical defense against some of these problems.
Number seven, do not put your fingers in the tank and then put them in the qt, and vice versa: also goes for nets, anything wet.
Number eight, do not qt groups of fish together: examine them carefully and individually. Qt'ing a group, you may not notice a problem on fish if distracted by others.
Number nine, use ro/di.
Number ten, do not have rock or sand in your qt. You might well use the tank transfer protocol, in which case every day gets a clean tank. Also, do your transfer at the crack of dawn: ich drops off a fish as the lights go out. Hopefully it gets trapped in the floss filter: you toss the floss (see my note today on pot filters) and move the fish into new tank, new filter. And keep at it. Read the note in Fish Disease.
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Agree with most of these points, although I don't measure alkalinity in QT. Seems like undue effort for minimal gain, if any, for fish. IME, water changes are sufficient to keep water quality in check for the QT period. Corals are a different story, of course.

For number 10, Tank Transfer Method is every three days for a total of 12 days total. Time of day is not critical as long as the transfer is made within 72 hours of the last (minimum period of tomont excystment).
 
tassod said:
So after 10 days do you do a water change and run carbon and run lights to get rid of the CP and redose dimilin and prazi?
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After day 10 I have been doing about a 95% water change and redosing prazi and dimlin. It seems to be working but I know 30d of CP works if you dont wish to risk it.
 
Question:
So I drained my QT tank completely and let it sit for 3 days with lights on to dry everything out. I then wiped it down with vinegar, rinsed with tap water dried it again for a day and just refilled it yesterday. For my HOB filter i cleaned it out completely and rinsed out the ceramic rings that were holding my biofilter with hot tap water and then let it dry for 24hrs and then put then back in the unit and installed it on the tank. I am now in the process of cycling the tank again. Were all these steps good enough to consider this tank clean?
 
tassod said:
Question:
So I drained my QT tank completely and let it sit for 3 days with lights on to dry everything out. I then wiped it down with vinegar, rinsed with tap water dried it again for a day and just refilled it yesterday. For my HOB filter i cleaned it out completely and rinsed out the ceramic rings that were holding my biofilter with hot tap water and then let it dry for 24hrs and then put then back in the unit and installed it on the tank. I am now in the process of cycling the tank again. Were all these steps good enough to consider this tank clean?
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I would use vinegar or bleach to soak the HOB filter. 24 hours might not be enough time to dry everything in the motor. you don't want anything wet touching the new tank.

I use TTM with airpump, tube and airstone. Toss the tube and stone everytime. then air stones got expensive so i just let it bubble..
 
m0nkie said:
I would use vinegar or bleach to soak the HOB filter. 24 hours might not be enough time to dry everything in the motor. you don't want anything wet touching the new tank.

I use TTM with airpump, tube and airstone. Toss the tube and stone everytime. then air stones got expensive so i just let it bubble..
Click to expand...

I did use pure vinegar and soaked it for 24hrs
 
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