Isn't that a lot more work?

I wouldn't let the tank experience sour your thoughts on other Red Sea equipment. I've heard nothing but good things about their other equipment. It's a shame so many people have experienced these seam failures. You'd think with this being a known issue for so long, it would have been resolved.
 
whelp, I ordered the e marco 400 after reading some reviews and watching a few videos. Ordered a new ATO as well. as much as I want to ban redsea from my house, the truth of the matter is it sure is convenient having all your devices on one app.......... so admittedly I ordered the redseas ATO. The LFS who sold me the Mariner is throwing in a reservoir which retails for $250 but fits the cabinet perfectly. $250 is a crazy price to me for an acrylic box, but at free, and custom fit for my stand.... I'll take it.

been researching floating reefs a bit, acrylic etc. I'm not sure if I'll be able to incorporate it, but might give it the ol' college try-
Well, I am sorry I didn't see this until you ordered the cement, but I love the Marco 400 cement. I still have about 1/3 a bucket left from back when I scaped my old tank. My current tank I used epoxy putty, as I was sculpting wet, but for dry scaping, nothing is better. The big rock ledge on the left (that everyone says looks like a crocodile's head) is a re-used piece, and is held together with Marco 400.
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I wouldn't let the tank experience sour your thoughts on other Red Sea equipment. I've heard nothing but good things about their other equipment. It's a shame so many people have experienced these seam failures. You'd think with this being a known issue for so long, it would have been resolved.

I agree with @griss on the equipment. I can’t say I’ve seen many complaints about the equipment side of RedSea

Well for better or worse I did go ahead and order the RedSea ATO. I just really do like the idea of so many of my mechanical devices being under one app.... It should arrive this week with my cement.

Well, I am sorry I didn't see this until you ordered the cement, but I love the Marco 400 cement. I still have about 1/3 a bucket left from back when I scaped my old tank. My current tank I used epoxy putty, as I was sculpting wet, but for dry scaping, nothing is better. The big rock ledge on the left (that everyone says looks like a crocodile's head) is a re-used piece, and is held together with Marco 400.
View attachment 32410054

thanks for the feedback! I expect my marco to arrive this week so my wife and I can start the design work. we have some ideas, but lucky for me she's far more visual than I am so I'm certain she will be the chief designer.
 
oh man so close. the past month has been a lot of different thoughts, feelings and even emotions between "maybe It's time to hang it up" to "lets go bigger than ever". There has also been the period of .... damnit, i really hate building stuff, as I contemplated the assembly of the new cabinet, plumbing, mixing 150 gallons of water, replumbing my auxillary equipment etc but we recently had a brand new deck built on the back of the house and now that it's finished, and my new tank is arriving any day I feel some excitement renewed.

I have a lot of crap on order right now, lol. Dr Tims, ATO, Marco, etc etc. I'm brainstorming aquascape, considering the polylabs genesis rock. already filling shopping carts on live aquaria for when the tank is ready.

I had also set up another 10g hospital tank with some sand and rock and it's completed it's cycle. I will likely break it down when the new 130g system is ready to go, but I like the idea of having my own very clean sand, water, and rock to throw into the new system to help seed things along a bit.
 
Be careful with livestock from Live Aquaria, IMO they have really gone downhill.

ohhh that's good to hear. they're one of the only places I've found to stock biscuit starfish and that's basically one of the most important critters we lost that I wanted to replace for my wife. He survived, but ended up sold at the LFS while we were stuck out of country and uncertain if we would rebuild.... so I had hoped to maybe place a fairly large order there to justify the shipping on the one starfish.
 
My new redsea ATO and Marco Cement arrived yesterday. Tank hasn't arrived yet, but I have live rock mocked up a bit in a formation my wife seems to approve of (LOL). We may use the cement to attempt a zoa tree... I feel like we are pretty much 90% ready for the new tank.

I'm a little bit torn on how I'm going to water test it before I set it up. Still working out those logistics in my head...
 
I have my rock scape worked out basically, although nothing is cemented together. I ordered Dr Tims which I've never used before, but thought it would be an interesting way to speed things up. I've been told to expect the new tank around Mar 11th or 12th. 12th would be bad because I can't be home that day so maybe the 13th.

I'm still trying to figure out the logistics of setting it up to do a fresh water leak test, then tearing it down to set it up again.
 
FINALLY
got word that the tank/stand is local at the 'distributor' and Oak Harbor will be calling me to schedule delivery. I have about an 1/8th mile gravel driveway with no turn around so hopefully they wont' be planning on sending a semi. local fish store had a massive bargain discount sale so I grabbed a torch for $39 and a rockflower anemone for my wife for $19. my hospital tank is fully cycled with some CUC, rock, sand, and a test kenya tree frag from my old setup that is thriving so I believe that tank is ready to house these critters until the big tank is cycled and nutrient rich...

what a journey. good grief. 6 weeks since the first tank crashed.
 
FINALLY
got word that the tank/stand is local at the 'distributor' and Oak Harbor will be calling me to schedule delivery. I have about an 1/8th mile gravel driveway with no turn around so hopefully they wont' be planning on sending a semi. local fish store had a massive bargain discount sale so I grabbed a torch for $39 and a rockflower anemone for my wife for $19. my hospital tank is fully cycled with some CUC, rock, sand, and a test kenya tree frag from my old setup that is thriving so I believe that tank is ready to house these critters until the big tank is cycled and nutrient rich...

what a journey. good grief. 6 weeks since the first tank crashed.
Can't wait to see the new tank in place.
 
Can't wait to see the new tank in place.

Me too. Its been a hell of a month+ lol. There were times when I was ready to bag the whole thing, and I'm still dreading the initial build out but I'm getting excited as the plans come together. I'm leaning very heavily towards a massive fish focus in the early days. My thinking here is that once the rock is in and the water ready, we can restock most of the fish that we wanted (and of course, no damsel) and allow them to start creating some nutritious waste for corals to be added into. Get a solid CUC going, and then start getting picky about our corals. Obviously there are some thing that will NOT be returning, such as xenia, clove polpys, pandora zoas, etc lol. we're going to be a bit pickier and on a better look out for the more invasive buggers.
 
OK so here's where I am. The tank arrived on Friday:

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I immediately started assembly.

as far as I can tell, only 3 panels of the cabinet are load bearing. I marked them here:

1742918257682.png


by load bearing, I mean they mount on TOP of the bottom panel. the two outter panels float a little bit and are screwed/bolted into place. This honestly has me feeling weird. Any thoughts on that? I guess it makes sense I just wish they were flat on the ground, or flat on the cabinet bottom panel, or had feet under them like the center panel does.

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The very last piece I grab to attach, is wrong. the paint color is wrong and the door doesnt it, lol. However, I reached out to eshopps on Sunday and by Monday we had a bunch of emails back and forth. they said they'll have all new doors sent to me this week and that they were confident I could go ahead and fill the tank with water (which I have not done yet) since the doors are not structurally relevant.

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its almost perfectly level, but not quite. I have to raise the back left corner just a hair, like an 1/8th inch I think

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That's a little strange on the stand but, I really don't have the structural knowledge to comment. I've always used pre-built commercial stands or built my own out of 2x4's.

Maybe @wvned or @PaulB might have better insight?
 
It's an engineered product. As long as the fasteners are all tight it will hold. Lots of people use them.
Dont let it stay wet. That will degrade the fasteners and materials its made of.

I have a 75 sitting on a stand that weighs nothing. It's just a perimeter box of OSB with a skin held together with trim boards with 2 doors on the front.
 
That's a little strange on the stand but, I really don't have the structural knowledge to comment. I've always used pre-built commercial stands or built my own out of 2x4's.

Maybe @wvned or @PaulB might have better insight?

It's an engineered product. As long as the fasteners are all tight it will hold. Lots of people use them.
Dont let it stay wet. That will degrade the fasteners and materials its made of.

I have a 75 sitting on a stand that weighs nothing. It's just a perimeter box of OSB with a skin held together with trim boards with 2 doors on the front.
Once I'm confident the feet are all secure to the ground and fully extended (no floaters) and tank looks level on all 4 sides I'll be honest, there is still a part of me that wants to put a tight wedge in under those two sides, lol. I keep telling myself the same thing, that its engineered, plus those three planks that are fully on top of the bottom cabinet main piece are going to do the lions share of the work.

I decided to have a talk with Grok about it, lol.


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a little more after I supplied a picture

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sorta interesting info, I find myself using Grok more than Google now days, this was the full recap:

Thanks for providing the image and additional details! I can see the stand you're assembling, and I understand your concern about the side walls and how the weight of the 100-gallon fish tank will be distributed. Since the tank is on a stand, using square feet for pressure distribution isn't ideal, as you pointed out. Instead, we need to focus on the linear support provided by the stand's structure, particularly the contact points with the floor.

Let’s break this down:

Step 1: Recap the Tank’s Weight​

From your previous question, we calculated that the 100-gallon tank filled with freshwater weighs approximately 834 pounds (just the water). The tank itself, substrate, decorations, and equipment will add more weight—let’s estimate an additional 100–150 pounds for a total of around 950 pounds to be conservative. This is the total weight the stand needs to support.

Step 2: Analyze the Stand’s Structure​

From the image, the stand appears to be a rectangular frame with:

  • A back wall providing 36 inches of linear support.
  • A middle wall providing 22 inches of linear support.
  • Two side walls, which you’re concerned about, that are not directly mounted to the floor but attached to the sides of the base.
The side walls are likely providing vertical support to the top of the stand (where the tank will sit), but their load is transferred to the base through their attachment points. The base itself seems to have a perimeter frame, and the actual contact with the floor will be along the edges of this frame.

Step 3: Determine the Contact Points with the Floor​

The stand’s base appears to be a rectangular frame with a bottom perimeter that will rest on the floor. The image shows:

  • The back wall (36 inches long) likely forms the back edge of the base.
  • The side walls (each likely 22 inches long, matching the tank’s width) form the left and right edges of the base.
  • The front edge of the base is not fully visible, but it’s reasonable to assume it’s also 36 inches long (matching the back).
This suggests the stand’s base is a rectangle (36 inches long by 22 inches wide) with the bottom edges of the frame making contact with the floor. The middle wall (22 inches) provides additional vertical support but may not directly contact the floor unless it extends all the way down.

The total linear contact with the floor is along the perimeter of the base:

  • Back: 36 inches
  • Front: 36 inches (assumed)
  • Left side: 22 inches
  • Right side: 22 inches
Total linear contact length:

36+36+22+22=116 inches36 + 36 + 22 + 22 = 116 \, \text{inches}36+36+22+22=116inches

Step 4: Calculate Weight per Linear Inch​

The total weight (950 pounds) is distributed across the 116 inches of linear contact:

950 pounds116 inches≈8.19 pounds per linear inch\frac{950 \, \text{pounds}}{116 \, \text{inches}} \approx 8.19 \, \text{pounds per linear inch}116inches950pounds≈8.19pounds per linear inch

Step 5: Address the Side Walls’ Support​

You mentioned that the side walls are not mounted to the floor but are attached to the sides of the base. This means the weight they support is transferred to the base’s perimeter frame. Each side wall is 22 inches long, and the base’s side edges (where the side walls attach) are also 22 inches long. The weight on each side edge of the base is:

22 inches×8.19 pounds per inch≈180.18 pounds per side22 \, \text{inches} \times 8.19 \, \text{pounds per inch} \approx 180.18 \, \text{pounds per side}22inches×8.19pounds per inch≈180.18pounds per side
This 180 pounds per side is what the attachment points of the side walls to the base must support. The side walls themselves are likely acting as vertical columns, transferring the tank’s weight from the top of the stand to the base. As long as the side walls are securely fastened to the base (e.g., with strong screws or brackets) and the material is sturdy (e.g., thick plywood or solid wood), they should be able to handle this load.

Step 6: Consider the Middle and Back Walls​

  • The back wall (36 inches) supports:36 inches×8.19 pounds per inch≈294.84 pounds36 \, \text{inches} \times 8.19 \, \text{pounds per inch} \approx 294.84 \, \text{pounds}36inches×8.19pounds per inch≈294.84pounds
  • The front edge (also 36 inches) supports the same: 294.84 pounds.
  • The middle wall (22 inches) isn’t directly on the floor, but it provides vertical support to the top of the stand, reducing the load on the side walls by distributing some of the weight to the back and front edges of the base.

Step 7: Evaluate the Design and Potential Concerns​

  • Side Wall Stability: Since the side walls are not directly on the floor, their stability depends on how securely they’re attached to the base and the top of the stand. If they’re only attached with a few screws, you might want to reinforce them with additional fasteners or brackets to prevent buckling under the 180-pound load per side.
  • Base Strength: The base’s perimeter frame needs to handle the total 950 pounds. If the base is made of solid wood or thick particleboard (at least 3/4-inch thick), it should be fine, but ensure the joints are strong (e.g., use wood glue and screws, not just nails).
  • Floor Load: The floor itself will see 8.19 pounds per linear inch along the stand’s perimeter. Most modern floors can handle this, but if your floor is older or weaker, you might want to spread the load further with a larger platform under the stand.

Final Answer​

  • The stand distributes the tank’s weight (approximately 950 pounds) across 116 inches of linear contact with the floor, resulting in about 8.19 pounds per linear inch.
  • Each side wall transfers about 180 pounds to the base, which should be manageable if the side walls are securely attached and made of sturdy material.
  • To ensure stability, double-check the fasteners on the side walls and consider adding reinforcements if needed.
If you have more details about the stand’s material or construction (e.g., thickness of the wood, type of fasteners), I can help refine the analysis further!
 
Amazing...


To estimate the maximum weight this stand can support, we need to analyze the material (marine-grade plywood), the stand’s design, and the structural elements based on the image and the details you’ve provided. Let’s break this down systematically.

Step 1: Understand Marine-Grade Plywood Strength​

Marine-grade plywood is a high-quality material designed for durability, especially in moist environments, making it an excellent choice for an aquarium stand. Its strength depends on its thickness, the number of plies (layers), and the type of wood used. Since you haven’t specified the thickness, I’ll assume a common thickness for aquarium stands: 3/4-inch (0.75 inches) plywood with 7–9 plies, which is typical for marine-grade plywood used in such projects.

Compressive Strength​

Marine-grade plywood has a high compressive strength, meaning it can handle significant weight when the load is applied perpendicular to the surface (e.g., the vertical walls of the stand supporting the tank). The compressive strength of marine-grade plywood can range from 4,000 to 6,000 psi (pounds per square inch), depending on the specific grade and wood species (e.g., Douglas fir or mahogany).

Shear Strength​

Shear strength (resistance to forces that cause the material to slide or break along its plane) is also important, especially at the joints where the side walls attach to the base. Marine-grade plywood typically has a shear strength of around 300–500 psi.

Bending Strength​

Bending strength (or modulus of rupture) matters for the top of the stand, which will support the tank’s weight across its span. For marine-grade plywood, this can be around 5,000–7,000 psi.

Step 2: Analyze the Stand’s Design​

From the image and your description:

  • The stand is a rectangular frame with dimensions approximately 36 inches long (back wall), 22 inches wide (side walls), and an unknown height (let’s assume 30 inches, a common height for aquarium stands).
  • The back wall provides 36 inches of linear support, the middle wall provides 22 inches of vertical support, and the side walls (22 inches each) are attached to the base.
  • The base is a perimeter frame (36 inches by 22 inches), and the total linear contact with the floor is 116 inches (as calculated previously: 36 + 36 + 22 + 22).
  • The middle wall and side walls act as vertical supports, transferring the tank’s weight to the base.

Step 3: Estimate the Load-Bearing Capacity of Key Components​

Vertical Supports (Side and Middle Walls)​

The side walls and middle wall are acting as columns, supporting the weight of the tank. Let’s calculate their compressive capacity:

  • Cross-sectional area of a vertical wall: If the plywood is 3/4-inch thick and the wall is 30 inches tall, the load-bearing edge of each wall is 0.75 inches wide (thickness) by 30 inches tall. However, the critical dimension for compression is the thickness of the plywood in the direction of the load.
  • Each vertical wall (side or middle) is 22 inches long and 0.75 inches thick, so the cross-sectional area at the base (where it contacts the bottom frame) is:0.75 inches×22 inches=16.5 square inches0.75 \, \text{inches} \times 22 \, \text{inches} = 16.5 \, \text{square inches}0.75inches×22inches=16.5square inches
  • With a compressive strength of 5,000 psi (a conservative estimate for marine-grade plywood):16.5 square inches×5,000 pounds per square inch=82,500 pounds16.5 \, \text{square inches} \times 5,000 \, \text{pounds per square inch} = 82,500 \, \text{pounds}16.5square inches×5,000pounds per square inch=82,500pounds
This is the theoretical maximum compressive load for one vertical wall, but in practice, the actual capacity will be much lower due to factors like buckling, joint strength, and load distribution.

Buckling Consideration​

For a vertical column like the side walls, buckling (bending under load) is a limiting factor. The critical buckling load for a column can be calculated using Euler’s formula:

Pcritical=π2⋅E⋅IL2P_{\text{critical}} = \frac{\pi^2 \cdot E \cdot I}{L^2}Pcritical=L2π2⋅E⋅I
Where:

  • EEE is the modulus of elasticity (for marine-grade plywood, around 1.5 million psi),
  • III is the moment of inertia of the cross-section,
  • LLL is the effective length of the column (30 inches, assuming the height of the stand).
For a rectangular cross-section (0.75 inches thick by 22 inches wide):

I=b⋅h312=22⋅(0.75)312=22⋅0.42187512≈0.773 in4I = \frac{b \cdot h^3}{12} = \frac{22 \cdot (0.75)^3}{12} = \frac{22 \cdot 0.421875}{12} \approx 0.773 \, \text{in}^4I=12b⋅h3=1222⋅(0.75)3=1222⋅0.421875≈0.773in4
Assuming the column is fixed at the base and top (due to attachment to the base and top of the stand), the effective length factor KKK is 0.5, so Leffective=0.5×30=15 inchesL_{\text{effective}} = 0.5 \times 30 = 15 \, \text{inches}Leffective=0.5×30=15inches.

Pcritical=π2⋅1,500,000⋅0.773(15)2=9.87⋅1,500,000⋅0.773225≈50,850 poundsP_{\text{critical}} = \frac{\pi^2 \cdot 1,500,000 \cdot 0.773}{(15)^2} = \frac{9.87 \cdot 1,500,000 \cdot 0.773}{225} \approx 50,850 \, \text{pounds}Pcritical=(15)2π2⋅1,500,000⋅0.773=2259.87⋅1,500,000⋅0.773≈50,850pounds
This is still a very high number, but it assumes perfect conditions. In reality, imperfections in the wood, joints, or load distribution will reduce this significantly.

Joint Strength​

The side walls are attached to the base, and this joint is likely the weakest point. If the side walls are attached with screws or bolts, the shear strength of the fasteners and the plywood at the joint will limit the load. Let’s assume each side wall is attached with four 1/4-inch diameter screws:

  • Shear strength of a typical wood screw: ~500 pounds per screw.
  • Total shear capacity for four screws: 4×500=2,000 pounds4 \times 500 = 2,000 \, \text{pounds}4×500=2,000pounds.
  • The plywood itself at the joint has a shear strength of ~400 psi. The shear area per screw (assuming the screw passes through 0.75 inches of plywood) is small, but the total shear capacity of the plywood at the joint is likely higher than the screws.
So, the joint on each side wall can likely handle around 2,000 pounds before failing, which is a more realistic limiting factor than the compressive or buckling strength of the plywood.

Top of the Stand​

The top of the stand (where the tank sits) is likely a 36-inch by 22-inch piece of plywood spanning the frame. It will experience bending stress. The maximum load before bending failure depends on the span and support. The top is supported by the back, middle, and side walls, so the longest unsupported span is between the middle wall and the side walls (about 14 inches, assuming the middle wall is centered).

  • The maximum bending stress for a simply supported beam under uniform load is complex, but for marine-grade plywood, a 3/4-inch thick piece spanning 14 inches can typically support several thousand pounds before failure, especially with support on all sides.

Step 4: Estimate the Stand’s Maximum Capacity​

The stand has:

  • Two side walls, each with a joint capacity of ~2,000 pounds.
  • A middle wall, likely with a similar joint capacity.
  • A back wall, which may distribute load directly to the base.
The limiting factor is likely the joints of the side and middle walls. If each of the three vertical supports (two side walls and one middle wall) can handle 2,000 pounds at the joints, the total capacity is:

3×2,000=6,000 pounds3 \times 2,000 = 6,000 \, \text{pounds}3×2,000=6,000pounds
However, this assumes even load distribution, which may not be the case. The tank’s weight will likely be concentrated more on the perimeter (where the tank’s frame sits), so the side walls and back wall will bear more load than the middle wall. Let’s be conservative and assume the side walls and back wall take most of the load, reducing the effective capacity to around 4,000 pounds.

Step 5: Factor in Safety Margin​

For safety, aquarium stands are typically designed with a safety factor of 3–5, meaning the stand should be rated for 3–5 times the actual load. Your 100-gallon tank weighs around 950 pounds (including water, tank, and accessories). With a safety factor of 4, the stand should be able to handle:

950×4=3,800 pounds950 \times 4 = 3,800 \, \text{pounds}950×4=3,800pounds
Our estimated capacity of 4,000 pounds is just above this, which is a good sign, but it’s close to the limit.

Final Answer​

Based on the analysis, the stand, made of 3/4-inch marine-grade plywood with the design shown, can likely support a maximum of around 4,000 pounds before the joints or structure begin to fail. However, to ensure safety and longevity:

  • The stand is more than adequate for your 100-gallon tank (950 pounds), as it’s well within the safety margin.
  • If you plan to use a larger tank in the future, I’d recommend keeping the total weight under 2,000 pounds to maintain a comfortable safety factor.
  • Double-check the joints: ensure the side and middle walls are securely fastened with enough screws or bolts (at least 4–6 per joint), and consider adding corner braces or a cross-brace to prevent racking (side-to-side movement).
If you know the exact thickness of the plywood or the number of fasteners used, I can refine this estimate further!
 
Your stand will hold a small car.
An engineered product.

Most homemade are way overbuilt. I am guilty of this. But I also wanted it to look a certain way. So it matched the one on the tank next to it somewhat. That is for a 180.
IMG_4273.jpeg

IMG_4473.jpeg

The good ole days.
 
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