JapanReef - 450 gallon In-Wall system
- Thread starter NexDog
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On that first pic I was in a state of panic. That crate weighed half a ton easy and we could slide it out but then what? So the guy backed the truck up so the bumper was up against the slope and then using pieces of wood as braces and pivots and some rope and we managed to lower it down.
Excited? Hell YEAHHH!!!
Excited? Hell YEAHHH!!!
Shawnts106
New member
You see people... ... This is what happens when reefers go toooo far!!!
haha!...
Geeze Ive missed alot... sounds like some more kinda' project!
Cant wait to see the tank in its finnal resting place!
You may have already answered this but Ill ask again anyway..
what are you useing for FLOW in the tank?.. Wavebox? Tunze? what exactly?
haha!...
Geeze Ive missed alot... sounds like some more kinda' project!
Cant wait to see the tank in its finnal resting place!
You may have already answered this but Ill ask again anyway..
what are you useing for FLOW in the tank?.. Wavebox? Tunze? what exactly?
Thanks Paul. Love your tank, man. One day..one day.... 
Hey Shawn, I've decided on closed loops for flow. The CL vs Tunze argument is almost like BB vs DSB, heh. Tunze streams are great and maybe one day I'll switch but I thought it be easier to build for closed loops first because it's easier this way round. Alot easier to add a few streams rather than drill for CL's later....
So system is going to be hardcore SPS so I'm going for maximum flow. Three closed loops:
Closed Loop 1: I've had the bottom drilled in 2 places (5" in from the back and 20" in from each side). I'm plumbing these into a Sequence 1000 (5800GPH) which I ordered yesterday at PA. And in teh tank I'm building some racks out of 1.5" PVC with outlets to 3/4" loclines. So two rock racks plumbed into that monster pump will keep the area below and around the racks free of detritus build up and add some overall flow.
As the tank is deep (36") I'm aquascaping with accentuating the depth in mind. This centers on 2 main islands (above the rack racks). The rock structure will come out of each back corner, sweep around each island and end up in a central valley. Hopefully will look good.
Closed Loop 2: As you can see in the pics above the back of the tank is drilled extensively at the back. The bottom row are the drains for the 3 closed loops. One feeds the Sequence 1000 and goes into the racks. One will feed a Sequence Dart on a 4-Way and return to the 4 outlets you see above the drains.
Closed Loop 3:The last closed loop is on the sides of the tank - 2 on each end - also on a 4-Way. You can see one side in this pic:
I have a spare Hammerhead so I might but that on this loop but my original plan was another Dart. I think I'll actually start with the Dart and can crank up to Hammerhead if I feel it is needed. There will be mostly LPS near the front so I'm now think the HH will be too much. The system is versatile though so I might change it completely and have the hammerhead on 2 of the 4 back outlets and the rear 2 outlets on each side. And have the Dart feeding 2 on the back and the front 2 on each side. So I think I can get the best flow by playing with the system.
The back 4 CL and the CL on the sides will be on timers that turn off at night to give the fish some rest from the high flow in the daytime.
You can also see the top flange around teh tank drilled in each back corner. This is where the sump returns via 1.5" omniflex nozzles. However, Paul at OM is going through some major changes at the moment and can't get me the nozzles yet. I want to put them on many of the CL returns too because they are really short and direct the flow well. For now standard bulkhead will be fine.
Hey Shawn, I've decided on closed loops for flow. The CL vs Tunze argument is almost like BB vs DSB, heh. Tunze streams are great and maybe one day I'll switch but I thought it be easier to build for closed loops first because it's easier this way round. Alot easier to add a few streams rather than drill for CL's later....
So system is going to be hardcore SPS so I'm going for maximum flow. Three closed loops:
Closed Loop 1: I've had the bottom drilled in 2 places (5" in from the back and 20" in from each side). I'm plumbing these into a Sequence 1000 (5800GPH) which I ordered yesterday at PA. And in teh tank I'm building some racks out of 1.5" PVC with outlets to 3/4" loclines. So two rock racks plumbed into that monster pump will keep the area below and around the racks free of detritus build up and add some overall flow.
As the tank is deep (36") I'm aquascaping with accentuating the depth in mind. This centers on 2 main islands (above the rack racks). The rock structure will come out of each back corner, sweep around each island and end up in a central valley. Hopefully will look good.
Closed Loop 2: As you can see in the pics above the back of the tank is drilled extensively at the back. The bottom row are the drains for the 3 closed loops. One feeds the Sequence 1000 and goes into the racks. One will feed a Sequence Dart on a 4-Way and return to the 4 outlets you see above the drains.
Closed Loop 3:The last closed loop is on the sides of the tank - 2 on each end - also on a 4-Way. You can see one side in this pic:
I have a spare Hammerhead so I might but that on this loop but my original plan was another Dart. I think I'll actually start with the Dart and can crank up to Hammerhead if I feel it is needed. There will be mostly LPS near the front so I'm now think the HH will be too much. The system is versatile though so I might change it completely and have the hammerhead on 2 of the 4 back outlets and the rear 2 outlets on each side. And have the Dart feeding 2 on the back and the front 2 on each side. So I think I can get the best flow by playing with the system.
The back 4 CL and the CL on the sides will be on timers that turn off at night to give the fish some rest from the high flow in the daytime.
You can also see the top flange around teh tank drilled in each back corner. This is where the sump returns via 1.5" omniflex nozzles. However, Paul at OM is going through some major changes at the moment and can't get me the nozzles yet. I want to put them on many of the CL returns too because they are really short and direct the flow well. For now standard bulkhead will be fine.
Bax
Premium Member
Nice planning, very versatile with all those drilled holes.
It's gona be like a crazy reef break in there!
Just asking, but would the HammerHead handle all the CL duty for the back and side inlets/outlets if split to the two OM 4 ways? Or is that not enough flow for your plans?
It's gona be like a crazy reef break in there!
Just asking, but would the HammerHead handle all the CL duty for the back and side inlets/outlets if split to the two OM 4 ways? Or is that not enough flow for your plans?
dgasmd
New member
Just as piece of advice, an dplease be free to take it with a grain of salt. I saw the strainers in your bulkheads installed. I know these are the ones most hobbiest use, me included in the past, but they are a huge PITA. They clog too easily requiring too much maintenance. Even worst if they are located in a not so easily accessible place. Below is what I replaced all mine with and it has proven to be sooooooo much better.
Strainer
They come with a threaded female end and since your bulkheads have the same you have to find a male threaded "nipple". What I did was I took a same diameter threaded cap for PVC and took a dremmel tool to cut the top off it leaving only the threaded section. Then, I threaded it in 2/3 of the way and left enough thread out to just give it 1 1/2 turns into the bulkhead. The suction from the pumps was more than enought to keep it in place, but I did not want it to get loose. There really is no need whatsoever to thread it in several times.
These strainers are so nice too because they spread the suction from the bulkhead so much more that it is safer on the fish too. I had lost a couple of fish that got sucked into the old ones. Also, they don't decrease your suction by causing a ton of resistance like the other did.
Strainer
They come with a threaded female end and since your bulkheads have the same you have to find a male threaded "nipple". What I did was I took a same diameter threaded cap for PVC and took a dremmel tool to cut the top off it leaving only the threaded section. Then, I threaded it in 2/3 of the way and left enough thread out to just give it 1 1/2 turns into the bulkhead. The suction from the pumps was more than enought to keep it in place, but I did not want it to get loose. There really is no need whatsoever to thread it in several times.
These strainers are so nice too because they spread the suction from the bulkhead so much more that it is safer on the fish too. I had lost a couple of fish that got sucked into the old ones. Also, they don't decrease your suction by causing a ton of resistance like the other did.
I've seen those strainers before - probably in your thread and actually noted the link down. It's such a small order though I'm not sure they'll send them international. I like them because they are nice and short too. Would a standard nipple be fine for screwing them into the bulkheads? I have bags of nipples from Savko. Do I need the 1-1/2" FNPT, 1/4" x 1" for my 1.5" bulkheads?
dgasmd
New member
For these strainers, if the strainer is 2" you need a 2" nipple unless you want to upsize it at the nipple by putting a 2" strainer on a 1.5 bulkhead, so you would need the 2"x1.5" nipple. You can use the nipples (I looked into it), but they are kind of long for what you really need here. The cap option I proposed above i the simplest, clean, and neatest way to do it.
As far as the order being smal from them, they will still ship it out. You may want to spend a few minutes browsing through their entire web catalog to see if there are other things you may need to tag on the order. I am sure, just like me, you will find 10 other things to order at the same time LOL............
As far as the order being smal from them, they will still ship it out. You may want to spend a few minutes browsing through their entire web catalog to see if there are other things you may need to tag on the order. I am sure, just like me, you will find 10 other things to order at the same time LOL............
Actually those drains are 2". The 2" nipples are kind of long but I think it would be easier to but then down to size. 
But I'll also try your suggestion and get some 2" screw-in caps and get the hack saw on them.
So I guess I need the TSS25 Strainers, 2" FNPT, 1/4" x 1"?
But I'll also try your suggestion and get some 2" screw-in caps and get the hack saw on them.
So I guess I need the TSS25 Strainers, 2" FNPT, 1/4" x 1"?
Carman34L
In Memoriam
NexDog said:Good point there. Once I have everything I'll order another box for spares. Please remind me in November.
Playing a waiting game at the moment. Waiting for the house, waiting for equipment, waiting for the tank. Few shots for you.
35 Union Ball Valves from the guys at Savko:
Yep, will be doing that after I put everything together - thanks. I've been contemplating what a huge task it actually is - quite daunting actually.
I'm at a loss for what to use as the stand top. Was thinking about FRP but heard many bad things about it disintegrating. Maybe an acrylic top wouldn't be such a bad idea after all (and would look pretty cool).
I'm at a loss for what to use as the stand top. Was thinking about FRP but heard many bad things about it disintegrating. Maybe an acrylic top wouldn't be such a bad idea after all (and would look pretty cool).
For a stand top - self-leveling concrete.....
Put a Ã"šÃ‚¾ plywood bottom and tack some side rails to it, then pour the concrete and let it level and cure. Afterwards, add a layer of foam insulation for support and cushioning for the tank.
If you have bottom holes in the tank, either drill a hole through the cured concrete or place pvc tubes in those locations before the pour.
Put a Ã"šÃ‚¾ plywood bottom and tack some side rails to it, then pour the concrete and let it level and cure. Afterwards, add a layer of foam insulation for support and cushioning for the tank.
If you have bottom holes in the tank, either drill a hole through the cured concrete or place pvc tubes in those locations before the pour.
dgasmd
New member
NexDog said:Actually those drains are 2". The 2" nipples are kind of long but I think it would be easier to but then down to size.
But I'll also try your suggestion and get some 2" screw-in caps and get the hack saw on them.
So I guess I need the TSS25 Strainers, 2" FNPT, 1/4" x 1"?
Do not down size the screen or plumbing to it at all. The one screen you ahve above is the right one for 2" bulkheads as it is the same size I have also. Don't use a hack saw on the caps or you will ruin the thread and it will be very hard to use it. Take a dremmel tool with a cutting tip (looks like a drill bit) and from the inside of the cap go to the edge and cut going around the entire edge. That way you never touch the thread outside.
Thanks for the tip - will do. I had a think of what else I need at this stage (apart from the obvious Calcium Reactor, Chiller and Controller which I'll get in a few months). Sean's tank death thread inspired to research temperature alarms and I found thee two:
http://www.aquaticeco.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/product.detail/iid/1060/cid/214
http://www.aquaticeco.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/product.detail/iid/1158/cid/246
Any thoughts on those?
http://www.aquaticeco.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/product.detail/iid/1060/cid/214
http://www.aquaticeco.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/product.detail/iid/1158/cid/246
Any thoughts on those?
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