JapanReef - 450 gallon In-Wall system
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It's definitely going to be a tight fit but everything does fit - just. I did plan on having the water change tank under the stand too but it just won't fit so I'm putting it under the sink. I'm so happy that I sunk the room down 2 feet otherwise it would be just too small. But there's a good 5ft space under the tank so lots of space for sump lights and pipes. The 6 pumps fit and so does the beast of a skimmer. I'm also putting in a shelf under the stand where the phos/carbon reactors will go.
Have to have that elevated walkway. Ease of access means that cleaning won't get neglected!
Well, I just finished my morning's work so I'm going over there now to start on the plumbing.
Have to have that elevated walkway. Ease of access means that cleaning won't get neglected!
Well, I just finished my morning's work so I'm going over there now to start on the plumbing.
Can someone explain this standpipe to me?
The bit on top with the valve, is that for water or for air? I was putting it all together today but not sure how to proceed with the overflow. I was originally going to do the same as Hop. He has 2 drains in each overflow like me - a standpipe on one and just a piece of pipe cut halfway in the second. What Hop did was to close the valve under the pipe until the water level rose above it and the standpipe handles the rest - giving him super silent overflows.
Because I have this extra bit on the top of the standpipe the main drain of it is very low - I'd say at the midway point. So doesn't leave lots of room to place the other pipe. But if water goes down the standpipe down the main bit and this top bit I could raise the second drain pipe up a bit. Clear as mud?
The bit on top with the valve, is that for water or for air? I was putting it all together today but not sure how to proceed with the overflow. I was originally going to do the same as Hop. He has 2 drains in each overflow like me - a standpipe on one and just a piece of pipe cut halfway in the second. What Hop did was to close the valve under the pipe until the water level rose above it and the standpipe handles the rest - giving him super silent overflows.
Because I have this extra bit on the top of the standpipe the main drain of it is very low - I'd say at the midway point. So doesn't leave lots of room to place the other pipe. But if water goes down the standpipe down the main bit and this top bit I could raise the second drain pipe up a bit. Clear as mud?
Hmmmm, okay. I might actually just plug up the other drain then. Also, the water cascading from the tank down to the water level in the overflow might be a bit noisy or is this a normal configuration?
What purpose does the air valve on the durso serve exactly?
What purpose does the air valve on the durso serve exactly?
CAreefer
Premium Member
Here ya go Laurence.
http://www.marinedepot.com/md_viewItem.asp?idproduct=RO5355
I agree with dgasmd. I would re-do them, raising them to the desired height, use a T with a cap on top, thread the cap and insert valve. The valve will control the amount of noise generated by the oveflow. There is a definite "sweet spot". The cascading effect will drown out any noise the durso makes, thus needs to be addressed by raising the pipe.
HTH
Marshal
http://www.marinedepot.com/md_viewItem.asp?idproduct=RO5355
I agree with dgasmd. I would re-do them, raising them to the desired height, use a T with a cap on top, thread the cap and insert valve. The valve will control the amount of noise generated by the oveflow. There is a definite "sweet spot". The cascading effect will drown out any noise the durso makes, thus needs to be addressed by raising the pipe.
HTH
Marshal
I just read Rich Durso's standpipe site so I think I understand how to build one.
Marshal, that valve link you posted, does it have a male threaded end? Just wondering how you'd attach one to the top of the durso. If the valve is threaded then I could put a bushing on top of the tee and thread it in?
Anyhow, I think I understand enough to have a go at modifying what I have.
Marshal, that valve link you posted, does it have a male threaded end? Just wondering how you'd attach one to the top of the durso. If the valve is threaded then I could put a bushing on top of the tee and thread it in?
Anyhow, I think I understand enough to have a go at modifying what I have.
CAreefer
Premium Member
Yes, the valve is threaded. I believe the one I posted is female however. Here is the whole page. Down at the bottom there are 3 different ones. The MPT one is straight, which shouldn't cause a problem.
http://www.marinedepot.com/aquarium_reverse-osmosis-deionization_jg_fittings.asp#tube
Standpipes are a piece of cake, don't be worried. My local Home Depot has them too. I don't know if they have stores like that over there, but you should be able to pick one up locally.
Marshal
http://www.marinedepot.com/aquarium_reverse-osmosis-deionization_jg_fittings.asp#tube
Standpipes are a piece of cake, don't be worried. My local Home Depot has them too. I don't know if they have stores like that over there, but you should be able to pick one up locally.
Marshal
Ginzo
New member
Hey Laurence,
Great tank, great setup ! I was actually in Japan a few weeks ago, visited Kyoto, Tokyo I hope to return soon ! (I'm from Canada)
I was following this thread silentily until now. I have to ask how that second pipe in your overflow will work ? I not quite sure to understand the concept. It will be half-ways up and you close the valve underneath it ? I don't quite understand it's purpose and how it will make the overflow more silent ?
Great progress so far ! :eek1:
Great tank, great setup ! I was actually in Japan a few weeks ago, visited Kyoto, Tokyo
I hope to return soon ! (I'm from Canada)I was following this thread silentily until now. I have to ask how that second pipe in your overflow will work ? I not quite sure to understand the concept. It will be half-ways up and you close the valve underneath it ? I don't quite understand it's purpose and how it will make the overflow more silent ?
Great progress so far ! :eek1:
Hi Laurence,
As my favorite anesthesiologist points out, the 1/2" valves *may* be ultra-overkill but I've had experiences in the past in which smaller (1/4") lab valves ended up whistling due to the large amounts of air in high flow applications. I leave theses units unglued so you can make any desired modifications without killing any parts so have at it and simply replacing the pipe with a longer one is easy The ones intalled do work pretty well though IME, keep the valve completely open and run the water through the overflow, you can slightly close the valve to quiet it down but this will take a little tweaking to get it right.
I started adding valves to these several years ago as the original design called for a drilled hole, the size of the hole is dependent on the amount of airflow/waterflow, since I can't determine the actual flow from here - started using valves to give so flexibility.
The secondary bulkhead is there so you can add a pipe to it and have an "emergency back-up", so if the waterflow is too much for the Durso, the secondary will pick up the slack and not overflow - hope that makes sense.
The primary Durso is constructed as Marshal described. A length of pipe with a tee on that, street ell off the side, threaded cap on top of the tee, valve off of that. Other than *maybe* lengthening of the pipe to a desired length, should be no other necessary mods but if a different valve is desired, than feel free
Set-up looks great and hope all is well,
James
As my favorite anesthesiologist points out, the 1/2" valves *may* be ultra-overkill but I've had experiences in the past in which smaller (1/4") lab valves ended up whistling due to the large amounts of air in high flow applications. I leave theses units unglued so you can make any desired modifications without killing any parts so have at it and simply replacing the pipe with a longer one is easy
The ones intalled do work pretty well though IME, keep the valve completely open and run the water through the overflow, you can slightly close the valve to quiet it down but this will take a little tweaking to get it right. I started adding valves to these several years ago as the original design called for a drilled hole, the size of the hole is dependent on the amount of airflow/waterflow, since I can't determine the actual flow from here - started using valves to give so flexibility.
The secondary bulkhead is there so you can add a pipe to it and have an "emergency back-up", so if the waterflow is too much for the Durso, the secondary will pick up the slack and not overflow - hope that makes sense.
The primary Durso is constructed as Marshal described. A length of pipe with a tee on that, street ell off the side, threaded cap on top of the tee, valve off of that. Other than *maybe* lengthening of the pipe to a desired length, should be no other necessary mods but if a different valve is desired, than feel free
Set-up looks great and hope all is well,
James
dgasmd
New member
James is right in that those 1/4" lab valves can whistle like there is no tomorrow. I ahve one in my 60g cube in my office and when I put a strong return pump it whistled big time. So much I downgraded the pump! That is why I suggested the 3/8" size instead. Also, another trick I found is that if you put the valve on and then add a piece of tubing to it it can significantly cut down on the whistling.
I would ahve thought it would be hard to properly dial in the larger valves like these 1/2" ones, but if James has had pretty good experiences I'd take his word for it. I am sure he has installed by far many more of these than me. At least by several folds.....
I would ahve thought it would be hard to properly dial in the larger valves like these 1/2" ones, but if James has had pretty good experiences I'd take his word for it. I am sure he has installed by far many more of these than me. At least by several folds.....
Ginzo
New member
Acrylics said:Hi Laurence,
As my favorite anesthesiologist points out, the 1/2" valves *may* be ultra-overkill but I've had experiences in the past in which smaller (1/4") lab valves ended up whistling due to the large amounts of air in high flow applications. I leave theses units unglued so you can make any desired modifications without killing any parts so have at it and simply replacing the pipe with a longer one is easy
I started adding valves to these several years ago as the original design called for a drilled hole, the size of the hole is dependent on the amount of airflow/waterflow, since I can't determine the actual flow from here - started using valves to give so flexibility.
The secondary bulkhead is there so you can add a pipe to it and have an "emergency back-up", so if the waterflow is too much for the Durso, the secondary will pick up the slack and not overflow - hope that makes sense.
The primary Durso is constructed as Marshal described. A length of pipe with a tee on that, street ell off the side, threaded cap on top of the tee, valve off of that. Other than *maybe* lengthening of the pipe to a desired length, should be no other necessary mods but if a different valve is desired, than feel free
Set-up looks great and hope all is well,
James
Hey Acrylics,
I'm still not quite sure to understand how the secondary "emergency back-up" pipe is used ?
Is the valve for this pipe always closed or is it opened in case the flow is too much ?
Wouldn't you be worried about a power failure happening and this pipe draining a good part of your tank ? Maybe this isn't the case with extra large sumps..but for a small sump it might be a disaster !
Correct me if I'm wrong !
Both pipes are within the overflow itself so no matter what, water cannot go below the overflow teeth. The redundant pipe is only there just in case the Durso standpipe cannot handle the flow that Laurence puts through it due to capacity limits or blockage. Imagine 2 standpipes in one overflow at different heights; if the flow is too much for the lower (primary) standpipe, then the second one will take the excess. In this case, the Durso is the lower one to make things quiet but if flow proves to be too much for this, the second will keep things from flooding. This secondary fitting was in Laurence's original drawings and it makes sense to have a "back up". The valve is on the Durso, not the back up.
HTH,
James
HTH,
James
Hi Ginzo, James summed it up pretty well.
James, I'm pretty sure the 2 dursos can handle a 1270gph return? If so I'll make the backup pipe lower. I was orgiginally going to make the secondary pipe lower and choke off the flow on it via the ball valvle until there was slightly more flow in the overflow that the pipe could handle so that the water level would rise above it - submerging it so making it silent. Then the durso would handle the little bit of flow that was left.
But I think I'm just going to try it your way. Hopefully will be able to test this today or tomorrow.
James, I'm pretty sure the 2 dursos can handle a 1270gph return? If so I'll make the backup pipe lower. I was orgiginally going to make the secondary pipe lower and choke off the flow on it via the ball valvle until there was slightly more flow in the overflow that the pipe could handle so that the water level would rise above it - submerging it so making it silent. Then the durso would handle the little bit of flow that was left.
But I think I'm just going to try it your way. Hopefully will be able to test this today or tomorrow.
nbd13
New member
Just a thought for you. why not use the other drain for a safety factor.
also by using 3 drains you will do a couple things here,
1. decrease microbubbles
2. decrease the noise
this happens b/c less water will travel through each durso at a slower speed. this will decrease the noise and also decrease the chance of microbubbles coming from the drains.
just a thought. i have a tank built by James and love it! what size are the drain bulkheads? i have 2 1.5" ones and they handle about 2500 gph.... BUT if i added a 3rd drain i would decrease the noise (splashing into the sump) and the microbubbles.
just a thought, why not utilize all 3 drains. plus in case something plugs one (snail or something) you have 2 more that can easily handle all the flow....
Nick
also by using 3 drains you will do a couple things here,
1. decrease microbubbles
2. decrease the noise
this happens b/c less water will travel through each durso at a slower speed. this will decrease the noise and also decrease the chance of microbubbles coming from the drains.
just a thought. i have a tank built by James and love it! what size are the drain bulkheads? i have 2 1.5" ones and they handle about 2500 gph.... BUT if i added a 3rd drain i would decrease the noise (splashing into the sump) and the microbubbles.
just a thought, why not utilize all 3 drains. plus in case something plugs one (snail or something) you have 2 more that can easily handle all the flow....
Nick
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