JapanReef - 450 gallon In-Wall system
- Thread starter NexDog
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To those with Envision tanks or external overflows in general - a question. I measured from the top of the tank to the bottom of the overflow slits and it's about 3". This seems a trifle big to me. I'd rather have the water line closer to the top so anyway to make that happen?
P.S. I had to cut holes in the overflow cover so that this could work and allow the adjustment that I needed. The first pipes I cut were too long and then the second were too short. So yes it took three times to get the pipes the right length to adjust the water level. Then when I got things set close to where I wanted I could adjust the water height a 1/2" very easily by increasing or reducing the flow.
This was my first experience with an overflow and it took about three days of playing with things to figure out all the adjustment possibilities. There is still a bunch I could learn, but right now it's all working well
This was my first experience with an overflow and it took about three days of playing with things to figure out all the adjustment possibilities. There is still a bunch I could learn, but right now it's all working well
jeffbrig
Premium Member
NexDog said:
I had James make mine with flat topped overflows (no slits). We left a 1" gap between the top of the overflow and the bottom of the eurobracing, and with the return pump running the water level is about 3/4" above the overflow, just as I wanted. I use gutter guard to keep snails and fish out of the overflow.
To raise your water level, I can think of two methods. Cover the low part of the slits, so the water level has to build higher in the tank before it starts going into the overflow box. Or, use a stronger return pump so the water level is higher when the overflow reaches equilibrium.
Hop, I can't see how raising the standpipe would affect the water level in the main tank. Surely all that would do is raise teh level in the overflow box?
Jeff, I was thinking of that. Not sure what I can use to cover the slits though. Acrylic is the obvious choice but I have no idea where to get any. Maybe I can glue a piece of plastic on there?
Jeff, I was thinking of that. Not sure what I can use to cover the slits though. Acrylic is the obvious choice but I have no idea where to get any. Maybe I can glue a piece of plastic on there?
It just worked out that all I had to do was cut holes slightly larger than the pipe diameter into the overflow cover. All and all the top of the pipes is about level with the surface of the cover.
It seems to be working really well on mine and makes things untra-quiet
.
It seems to be working really well on mine and makes things untra-quiet
.
jeffbrig
Premium Member
NexDog said:
I haven't been using mine either. In addition to the durso being too tall, my return plumbing and wiring all come up to through the overflow to the canopy. To use the lid, I need to cut holes for all of these. I've been planning to do this for a while, but it hasn't been a priority.
I'll see how noisy the overflows are I guess.
Well, like I said, haven't been able to do much because I tighten the bottom bulkheads enough due to the holes in the stand being too small. As the tank needs to be moved or raised I can't finish the plumbing under the stand but I've been cutting everything and dry fitting so when the holes are done I can move quickly.
Getting there:
Here's the sump. You can see the "shadow box" on top which is for the 24/7 lighting over the fuge section.
Side closed loop outlets.
Assembled 4-Way.
Well, like I said, haven't been able to do much because I tighten the bottom bulkheads enough due to the holes in the stand being too small. As the tank needs to be moved or raised I can't finish the plumbing under the stand but I've been cutting everything and dry fitting so when the holes are done I can move quickly.
Getting there:
Here's the sump. You can see the "shadow box" on top which is for the 24/7 lighting over the fuge section.
Side closed loop outlets.
Assembled 4-Way.
Thought you might be interested in the rock racks that I made up. Here is a pic of both - one with the top on and one without:
Here's a slightly lopsided **** that gives you an idea of the flow. As I mentioned before I have 3 loclines pointing up and 3 pointing down. This is the front of the rack basically and has 2 nozzles clearing detritus out to the back and one nozzles pointing forward between them to keep the area behind thos 2 nozzles clean.
View from above:
Hopefully will all works as planned.
Here's a slightly lopsided **** that gives you an idea of the flow. As I mentioned before I have 3 loclines pointing up and 3 pointing down. This is the front of the rack basically and has 2 nozzles clearing detritus out to the back and one nozzles pointing forward between them to keep the area behind thos 2 nozzles clean.
View from above:
Hopefully will all works as planned.
duhfactor
Premium Member
NexDog,
I've truly enjoyed reading this thread since the beginning. A truly amazing set up. What diameter is the PVC rack lines made from? I'm considering ripping off your idea for a 325 gal set up I'm doing.I'm very impressed. This is actually the first post out of almost a year of reading these threads that I've actually felt compelled to include myself into. Thanks.
Damon
I've truly enjoyed reading this thread since the beginning. A truly amazing set up. What diameter is the PVC rack lines made from? I'm considering ripping off your idea for a 325 gal set up I'm doing.I'm very impressed. This is actually the first post out of almost a year of reading these threads that I've actually felt compelled to include myself into. Thanks.
Damon
jumboshrimp18
Premium Member
The racks look great. Seems to be a clever design. I think these will become increasingly more popular amongst those brave enough to drill through the bottom of their tanks.
Perhaps you remember earlier on in the thread that I mentioned that you should try to position the small screws on the OM you have there to be accessible--on the right and the left side rather than on the font and the back--in case you have to open it up for a cleaning.
So what do you think of penductors for the four CL returns?
http://www.kthsales.com/website/Misc/hello_salt_water_enthusiasts.htm
Perhaps you remember earlier on in the thread that I mentioned that you should try to position the small screws on the OM you have there to be accessible--on the right and the left side rather than on the font and the back--in case you have to open it up for a cleaning.
So what do you think of penductors for the four CL returns?
http://www.kthsales.com/website/Misc/hello_salt_water_enthusiasts.htm
jumboshrimp18
Premium Member
tha should be...'of penductors for the four CL returns' on the sides of the tank?
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