Just finished Nilson kalkwasser reactor

The pump connection. Uses half inch hose barbs.
 

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The pump tube connections. The tubes are clear PVC. The top fitting is just a 90 degree fitting to pull water in from above.
 

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I ran a leak test and found that two of my pump hosebarb connections leaked. So I used some aquarium silicone to seal up the hosebarb that had the 5/8" hose on it (the pump inlet).

The other one that leaked was the 1/2" hose to pump outlet connection. The pump outlet was too small to seal. I took my dremel to the fitting that normally slides over the pump outlet. This fitting came with the maxijet and normally holds the water outlet. I cut it off just before the venturi air inlet. This basically added some extra diameter to the outlet. I then put it on the pump outlet, sealing it up with some aquarium silicone. The 1/2" hose stretched over it perfectly.

I think that should solve the leaks there.

I had water in it last night. I saw no leaks otherwise. But it wasn't under pressure like it will be when I run my RO outlet into it.

I will also take some pictures of my solenoid and float switches tonight. I had to up my 12V DC power supply to a Radio Shack 1500mA unit (I was using their 750mA unit before) to power the solenoid and my exhaust fan.
 
great kalk reactor... i have one myself that i built about 6-8 months ago... i was using the MJ1200 i use kent kalk... and blew through the proprlla... not sure why... think i was pulling in to much ok the kalk... i changed mine a little and the intake now pulls from closer to the surface... to cut down how much kalk it pulls into the pump... IMO....

Pete
 
I've been thinking about doing the same thing after seeing how my pump works the water around the system. I'm worried about the kalk never making it up to the top 1/3 of the tube.

Luckily I can just insert a 1/2" PVC pipe into the 90 degree slip fitting I used on the pump inlet. Doesn't have to be a water-tight connection, so a friction fit will work fine.

Am I the only one who is amazed that the maxijets don't leak? :)
 
the kalk solution will make it up the the top 1/3 dont you worry about that...

i know my MJ1200 not one leak.... in 6+ months...
but i am waiting for my propella right now.. sniff sniff... and i am in the middle of bidding on a reef filler 1000-3 so i will plumb that into my system! and then i do not have to worry abotu topping off.....

Pete
 
It is all set up. The only issue I am having is that my solenoid won't hold back the pressure of the RO water. :( It leaks right through.

And it is supposedly rated to 150psi! :(

Any my holding tank has a max pressure rating of 100psi.

At the bottom of the page:
http://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/108/html/0375.html

Delrin Direct-Acting Solenoid Valves
ââ"šÂ¬Ã‚¢ Normally Closed (valve opens when energized)
ââ"šÂ¬Ã‚¢ Minimum Differential Pressure: 0 psi
ââ"šÂ¬Ã‚¢ Maximum Pressure: 150 psi
ââ"šÂ¬Ã‚¢ Maximum Temperature: 200Ã"šÃ‚° F
With Spade Connector

Only 1 1/2" in overall length, these valves are for use with water, oil, and inert gas. Body is Delrin (acetal) and seat is nitrile. Coil is Class F. Choose valves with 18" double leads or valves with spade connectors. Mount vertically with coil on top. Current draw is .62 amps @ 24 VAC, 60 Hz; .18 amps @ 120 VAC, 60 Hz; or 1.22 amps @ 12 VDC.
Connections: NPT female.
To Order: Please specify 24 VAC, 120 VAC, or 12 VDC.
 
ShapeGSX--That's a bummer. I just hate it when I'm all set to plug stuff in and something is wrong. If you decide to go with a different valve, the one I got from Lifereef has been working great. Plus it came with a cord---ready to plug in. No spade connector to deal with. Also, I've added the second float switch normally closed for an upper limit shut off. Works great.

Mobert
 
Mobert,

Trouble is that I already spent a bit of money on the float switches.

Any chance that you could look for a part number/company on the solenoid that you have?
 
Holy cow I am an idiot! There is an input and an output to the solenoid. I had it plumbed backwards! It seals perfectly now! I have an auto topoff with kalk now! WHOOHOO!

I set up my timer to mix the kalk for 10 minutes every 2 hours. For the amount of evap that I get, I think that should be a fine duty cycle.

Thanks for your help, guys!
 
There should be no bubbles in the reactor. Are the bubbles there all the time or just when the pump that mixes it is on?
 
The bubbles were there when I filled it. I think some good shakes will get them to the surface where they can be bled off. Or just open it up and wipe them off with a long bit of plastic.
 
SweetJesus said:
Guys, instead of using timers, dosing pumps, expensive R/O pressurized units etc etc etc etc.

A simple way is to use a grainger 2a554 float switch. Wire it into a home extension cord. plug both your mixing pump and feed pump (MJ 400/600) into the end. Voila. Doses a very small volume at a time. Also mixes whenever new water is added to the reactor. Simple effective. yadda yadda yadda. In my 90 with 20 sump, It runs for 2 minutes max. This is with a 1/4" outlet. So you know that not much water is getting added.
Click to expand...

do you have a wireing diagram for this? you dont need any transformers or anything... i would think the 110 house power would blow the grainger float switch!!

please help...
thank you all
Pete
 
The float switches are rated for household voltage.

It isn't voltage that will kill something like this. It is current draw. And that is defined by the accessory you are trying to run.
 
ShapeGSX said:
The float switches are rated for household voltage.

It isn't voltage that will kill something like this. It is current draw. And that is defined by the accessory you are trying to run.
Click to expand...

ahhh very cool... so all it is is basily a loop between the float switch and outlet right? like wireing a light to a light switch???

thanks
Pete
 
Get the $1.50 household extension cord. One end you can plug three plugs in, and has a roller switch in the middle. Use a small phillips screw driver to remove the housing around the roller switch, wire the float switch in between the two wires and tape with electrical tape. Stuff it all back inside the roller switch housing and reinstall the screw. Very neat clean and if your really wanting to protect it you can use some heat shrink tubing over the whole switch to seal it up.
 
SweetJesus said:
Get the $1.50 household extension cord. One end you can plug three plugs in, and has a roller switch in the middle. Use a small phillips screw driver to remove the housing around the roller switch, wire the float switch in between the two wires and tape with electrical tape. Stuff it all back inside the roller switch housing and reinstall the screw. Very neat clean and if your really wanting to protect it you can use some heat shrink tubing over the whole switch to seal it up.
Click to expand...


thank you very much!
Pete
 
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