Karim's 1500gal dream reef

I had to do that for the deep end edges. I'm stacking two 3/8" pieces that are 1" x 27" in each corner to duplicate the effect of one 3/4" thick section. This is the edge I am most concerned about, especially if I go deeper by another 3".

I think that I can extend the panels by as much as I have an air gap at the top... :)
 
ok. the core problem is that the pipes in and out of the tank and in the back and occupy the same space as the circulating powerheads. There are 4 drains and 4 return lines.

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That's costing me ~5" of height for plumbing, buy I really didn't want any plumbing under the tank due to poor accessibility and the fact that it's so low it would literally exit inside the sump instead of above it.

So one solution is to reroute the connections through the 1.5" of wood and epoxy.

Tough choice so here are the pros and cons of the "backwall plumbing" vs. "floor plumbing" connections:

PROS of backwall:
1. Easy access from the tank room.
2. Eliminates the need to plumb under the tank and allows the bottom to be a single contiguous sheet of wood or PVC.
3. Plumbing is at sump level or higher instead of having to go down through the sump

CONS of backwall:
1. Requires drilling 8 holes in two layers of 3/4" glass at the weakest part of the tank (at the bottom of the 27" depth).
2. Consumes 5" of water depth into the lower channels.

What do you think?
 
Karim's 1500gal dream reef

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Probably just personal preference, but I would rather have a aquarium with a glass peninsula rather than a drop-off. This would help give swimming room for the taller fish and allow you to have more reef face.


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No I meant more like this
3136e1506625886cbcd0e15300ebe625.png
this is a rough drawing but I'm sure u get the idea.


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I'm also not certain about how this will effect your design structurally, but it would look better imo


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well. that is an interesting concept.

I need to sleep on that one.

The primary reason for the two height design is to create channels for the back and forth flow. Not sure how it would work with a 3D dropoff.

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for example:

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Karim, What about making it 3 (or 5) zones? Narrow up the shelf as below so that it takes up 1/3 instead of 1/2 the system. That makes easy separation for 3 zones, although the flow gets a bit tricky. Are you (I have a feeling I'm going to be around for it) going to do some flow studies with either dye or neutral buoyancy pellets on the scale model?
 
Yes. The intent is use pellets in the model to simulate the flow patterns for different modes.

I've given this more thought and a vital element is the structural integrity of the 12' side panels. The false floor serves a critical bracing function so that I can have a completely open 12' x 8' top. Without it, the 12' side panels would be unbraced down to 27" depth. I don't see 3/4" starphire being a viable option in that case.

While I like the aesthetics, the tank is first about replicating the conditions in nature- particularly flow, light and air. The channel structures create the circulating flow. At 9' each, we're already pushing the ability of the powerheads to drive the right flow patterns in the primary direction. Creating more channels would divert more of this flow away from the intended circulating loops.

That's not to say that it can't be done - just that the pump configuration won't support it. I have almost no powerheads within the tank now. All forcing is done in the backend to eliminate wires and simplify maintenance.

So, doing this would require going to a smaller tank, thicker green glass, braced top, more complex center bracing, shallower deep zone, and a more complex pumping system... or at least some combination of these mitigating elements.

While it's a beautiful design, I don't see doing it due to the higher risk and complexity in design and maintenance (& cost). But even if it were feasible, I don't think it would help corals grow any faster... and that's still my primary objective.

:(
 
no opinions on back plumbing vs. bottom plumbing?

Bottom plumbing would add 4" creating a top channel of 20". With a 1" air and 2" sand, that returns 17" of fish space.

The bottom would become only 7.5". That means that the flow in the dark channels will be 2x the flow in the lit channels.

The lit area would be 5in/sec. The dark would be closer to 9.5"/sec... hope those sponges hold on tight.

Also - not sure I can fit under the tank... I'll show the pictures.
 
the drains now run to the bottom of the sump directly...

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and it sure is a tight fit. I don't expect I'll ever need to - but never say never

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think I need to raise the tank by 2"? maybe more? that neck is right up against my neck
 
on the positive side, it reduces the complexity of the glass - only 4 holes needed and only 89 sections (down from 114).

on the negative side, the dropoff is only 9". Well, 11" if you include the 2" of sand on the false floor... which is not as impressive.
 
I was going to suggest some excavation to lower the floor under the tank - just a row or two of block would give you the extra 8 or 16 inches of space. But then *TX*, so that may not be easy or cheap.
 
I think it's a rare occurrence when I would need to access the underside so it just has to be possible, not convenient.

In TX, there are no basements or underground structures. The soil shifts, especially in North Texas, so very heavy reinforcement is needed. That's why I want as solid a slab as I can get under the tank.
 
bottom drain for sure. too much activity in the back. You can go one cinder block higher and still not be too tall no? then maybe you could use some of the under tank space for a cyptic zone or something too. ;)
 
I wanted to keep it low so that the primary viewing is actually from above. Without lights or braces, the top of the tank is 8' x 11' of viewing window = 88sqft contiguous view.

The sides are nice but they're 8' x 27" or 11' x 17" @ 2 sides = 49sqft broken views. They're really secondary.

Bring sunlit means that the usual glare of multiple metal halide bulbs or LEDs will be eliminated. I will have supplementary UV but they're not a significant source of glare and project at an angle off to the sides. This means that I just have one massive glare from the sun during some times of the day... and was actually looking forward to evaluating moonglare... future topic.

I also wanted easy access without having to get up on ladders for most of the tank perimeter. I plan on using ladders or a scaffold for the middle section.

So low is key... another cinder block would be 8" (I think).

I'm 5'10" and my wife is 5'2" (really trying to get her into this), so 8" is a big jump.

Thinking out loud here... one possibility is to build a raised floor all through the sunroom to compensate. It would a foot high and go all around except under the tank. Then I would have to create a step down to the house and backyard levels.

I could use plastic decking or the FRP Grate flooring and then cover it up with AstroTurf?
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2632492&highlight=floor

I'm out of my league here in terms of raised floor construction with access.
 
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