Karim's 1500gal dream reef

[karimwassef]

Or maybe just pour an extra foot of concrete except under the tank and a few access panel sections on either side? Then only the access panel would need special supports.

 

[karimwassef]

I love how bizarre ideas create their own offspring ... so taking that idea and going wild:

What if the one foot concrete "overlay" didn't include the tank or a U shaped trench around the tank. Then a U shaped panel would fit into the trench.

Then that panel could be supported with electric or pneumatic linear actuators that would raise the panel for easy topside tank access and simultaneously opening the lower access to the undertank space. Dual purpose and eliminates all ladders (that I was planning to store under the tank).

 

[jccaclimber]

I wanted to keep it low so that the primary viewing is actually from above.

Having seen the top of your current tank in person and knowing what sort of water movement you like I'm not convinced you're going to be able to see much looking down from the top unless you turn all the flow off. I think the sides will still be very significant.

Bring sunlit means that the usual glare of multiple metal halide bulbs or LEDs will be eliminated. I will have supplementary UV but they're not a significant source of glare and project at an angle off to the sides. This means that I just have one massive glare from the sun during some times of the day... and was actually looking forward to evaluating moonglare... future topic.

Interesting side question, will your glass greenhouse block UVA and UVB? Is there a sunburn concern working in that room for long periods of time (seems like the same question would apply to greenhouses)? Sunscreen is bad for coral, but as you know water will reflect UV.

I also wanted easy access without having to get up on ladders for most of the tank perimeter. I plan on using ladders or a scaffold for the middle section.

Stunt double suspended from the ceiling .

So low is key... another cinder block would be 8" (I think).

(really trying to get her into this)

You sir are an ambitious individual.

Thinking out loud here... one possibility is to build a raised floor all through the sunroom to compensate. It would a foot high and go all around except under the tank. Then I would have to create a step down to the house and backyard levels.

I like this option if you don't mind the step in to the room. Something like a server room floor where the panels lift up? Not without cost and hassle, but probably a better solution than lowering the tank in terms of access.

I could use plastic decking or the FRP Grate flooring and then cover it up with AstroTurf?
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2632492&highlight=floor

I'm out of my league here in terms of raised floor construction with access.

Not sure what, but I've never liked the look or feel of astroturf. I would think that wooden decking would be more attractive.

 

[karimwassef]

I'm going to have a "crystal lake" setting where all flow is adjusted to create a smooth surface. Even the fans get turned off.

 

[karimwassef]

Unfortunately, all glass blocks UV. This is unfortunate because UV is, IMO, the primary coloring variable in coral. It also accelerates growth (also IMO)

The glass I was looking to get blocks UVC at 30% and IR at 70%. My preference is 0% and 100% but that doesn't exist. The A is all blocked. The B is mostly blocked and the C is the 30%. So no risk except of tanning with long exposure. I think it's not enough, hence the supplemental blue and UV.

I'm also not sure I can afford the glass I want... so even more supplemtal UV.

Can you spot the sections of this coral getting supplemental UV? (Current experiment)

<a href="http://s1062.photobucket.com/user/karimwassef/media/05F2B929-FBA5-40CD-8F32-8C6216FA7ACD_zpszwsidonz.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1062.photobucket.com/albums/t496/karimwassef/05F2B929-FBA5-40CD-8F32-8C6216FA7ACD_zpszwsidonz.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 05F2B929-FBA5-40CD-8F32-8C6216FA7ACD_zpszwsidonz.jpg"></a>

<a href="http://s1062.photobucket.com/user/karimwassef/media/13588F13-E580-4A80-9192-194BA03FDB31_zpsbpxode36.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1062.photobucket.com/albums/t496/karimwassef/13588F13-E580-4A80-9192-194BA03FDB31_zpsbpxode36.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 13588F13-E580-4A80-9192-194BA03FDB31_zpsbpxode36.jpg"></a>

Can you tell which section here got too much UV?

<a href="http://s1062.photobucket.com/user/karimwassef/media/F489FA8B-B0A7-476D-9FA7-F5028C1D6423_zpsw5f8qvbu.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1062.photobucket.com/albums/t496/karimwassef/F489FA8B-B0A7-476D-9FA7-F5028C1D6423_zpsw5f8qvbu.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo F489FA8B-B0A7-476D-9FA7-F5028C1D6423_zpsw5f8qvbu.jpg"></a>

There's a fine line between beautiful tan and dead...

 

[karimwassef]

I have AstroTurf in the kid's section of the yard now. It's actually quite awesome. Come give it a try.. it's changed a lot in the last couple of decades

<a href="http://s1062.photobucket.com/user/karimwassef/media/32666FEB-ABED-4533-AEB0-AABFE89F557E_zps90etcq3o.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1062.photobucket.com/albums/t496/karimwassef/32666FEB-ABED-4533-AEB0-AABFE89F557E_zps90etcq3o.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 32666FEB-ABED-4533-AEB0-AABFE89F557E_zps90etcq3o.jpg"></a>

 

[Darthv247]

You will get plenty of light through the glass. Do they use special glass in greenhouses? Night hours will be moon only though and that light seems blocked more by glass. Maybe the spectrum matters?

 

[karimwassef]

Moonlight has the same spectrum as sunlight .. including UV content. The only difference is intensity.

 

[karimwassef]

I could add supplemental evening light, but I was looking forward to seasonal effects of sunlight and moonlight.

 

[karimwassef]

ok.. this started out as a crazy idea.

But it does solve a problem of view and accessibility (including the all-around raised platform I couldn't make work before).

Please be kind in your criticism - I know I have no idea how floors should be built. But PLEASE DO CRITICIZE. Don't let me do something stupid!

here it is completely raised
<a href="http://s1062.photobucket.com/user/karimwassef/media/Designs/0_zpsnv7rop2r.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1062.photobucket.com/albums/t496/karimwassef/Designs/0_zpsnv7rop2r.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 0_zpsnv7rop2r.jpg"/></a>

<a href="http://s1062.photobucket.com/user/karimwassef/media/Designs/1_zpsoffmc9gl.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1062.photobucket.com/albums/t496/karimwassef/Designs/1_zpsoffmc9gl.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 1_zpsoffmc9gl.jpg"/></a>

here it is mid-way
<a href="http://s1062.photobucket.com/user/karimwassef/media/Designs/2_zpsxegg8dzz.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1062.photobucket.com/albums/t496/karimwassef/Designs/2_zpsxegg8dzz.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 2_zpsxegg8dzz.jpg"/></a>

and completely lowered
<a href="http://s1062.photobucket.com/user/karimwassef/media/Designs/3_zps0zta33qn.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1062.photobucket.com/albums/t496/karimwassef/Designs/3_zps0zta33qn.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 3_zps0zta33qn.jpg"/></a>

and this shows the new effective "height" of 44" with models that are 5'10" and 5'2"

<a href="http://s1062.photobucket.com/user/karimwassef/media/Designs/4_zpsnl3kwzew.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1062.photobucket.com/albums/t496/karimwassef/Designs/4_zpsnl3kwzew.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 4_zpsnl3kwzew.jpg"/></a>

 

[karimwassef]

I made the platform U shape 18" wide. The hydraulic lifts are ~ $200 each based on this

https://www.harborfreight.com/500-lb-capacity-hydraulic-table-cart-60730.html

and the opening is ~22" high.

I think 18" x 22" is big enough to me to get under there. I might need to lay back on a dolly to get access - again this is rare. I would expect to use the platform as an access lift much more frequently.

 

[ericarenee]

Hi

The deck /floor framing looks pretty sound ,Thou there is a drawing issue between the band board around the top and the sheathing/ skin . Prob a drawing issue without a framing cut thru its hard to tell..

The Lift.. Two things jump to my mind well 3 now

1. The structure of what the deck is made out of Cant really see it clearly.
2. The floor / decking need a steel angle with some guide pins for the raising floor to drop down into. You cant just let it sit on the lifts all the time.It will wear them out and un save if one blows a seal..
3.. When the lifts are in raised position.. You need a locking mech to insure one corner would not fall if a lift failed.. This could cause it to hit the tank..

My only other concern is Related to number 2 above.

when the floor is down in its level position There will be a void between the floors, The best way to deal with this is a WIDE T-Cap. where half of it sits on the lift and half onto the deck..
example.. have the lifts sheathing overhand the lift by 4 inches.. Cut the sheathing back on the deck 4 inches.. when the lift goes down into the Guide pins it will eliminate this Gap

What type of Flooring are you planning on using... ?

So my concern is around safety with the lift.. This is something you need to build into it. ..
ohh There is a unfair employment situation in your drawings.. Giggles

 

[jccaclimber]

Mostly echoing the comments above, but lifts should only bear anything critical (humans included) when resting against hard stops. Sort of like getting under a car. You might use hydraulics or a hand jack to lift the vehicle, but it should always be resting on something solid like a jack stand before you go under it, stand on it, or otherwise rely on it.

Edit: This assumes they aren't fail safe in the sense that they will hold position if something internal goes wonky, but most aren't.

 

[karimwassef]

They each can handle 500lbs, so a total of 2000lbs with 4. But I hear you.

I am trying to keep the space clear when it's raised since the intent is to access the area underneath. I'm not sure how to solve this without adding a manual prop brace (but that takes the coolness away). But safety is more important than coolness.

I get the need for the moving platform to be on a solid base when not raised. I'll add that in.

Basically, I need a way to stop the lifts from tilting or moving in a way that could cause stress on the tank, so I need some kind of locking runner or pin to hold it in place, level and smooth. Also not sure if they'll all activate together or if I need to adjust the pressure to each to achieve that. Maybe I'll go electric instead.

Construction is basic. 2x4s bolted to concrete and then screwed to each other (green on the concrete side). Then plywood top covered with a shower guard rubber liner (and the red stuff) and maybe tile afterwards- unless I can get AstroTurf. This applies to the room floor and platforms.

Just a note, I think the AstroTurf would be best in hiding the seam. Then I can do the James Bond thing and push a button to access the hidden area below...

Thank you! I'll think about how to make it safer.

All in all though, this isn't very expensive (except the choice of top flooring).

 

[Darthv247]

Is still say 3 cinder blocks for 27" viewing level . Low is good but you don't wanna be bending over all the time to see the tank. Is nice to see the whole scene when walking by. Plus that will still be below both your waist lines. Lift for maintenance would be cool though. Or scaffolding of some sort.

The lift or scaffolding could just be manually lifted into place as well. Then locked at the desired height.

Or, just put a nice grated walkway around the tank and u will have multiple viewing levels.

 

[karimwassef]

Three cinder block base is 26". The tank is 29". That's 55" to the top.

Raising the floor by a foot gives a height of 43". I'm 70" so that's 2' below eye level. Given that the spread is 8' x 11', getting 2' of height perspective looks about right to me?

The whole point of having a lift is that I expect maintenance on this beast to be a bear. Since I'm not planning on hiring a crew, it's got to be easy at every level.

I'm already thinking of the automated algae magnet to scour the 30' of glass... little robots with magnets?

 

[karimwassef]

ok.. so to make sure we're all clear on the obstacles and hidden structures...

I've removed the plywood sides and the platform. Here's what's left:

<a href="http://s1062.photobucket.com/user/karimwassef/media/Designs/0_zpsyd3ehhpc.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1062.photobucket.com/albums/t496/karimwassef/Designs/0_zpsyd3ehhpc.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 0_zpsyd3ehhpc.jpg"/></a>

the two yellow sections are removable cosmetic plywood sections. I'm thinking dowels and magnetic couplings to hold them in place.

The concrete cinder blocks have 2x4 sections glued/screwed into them that the plywood would attach to.

ericarenee - That may be been the drawing issue you pointed out before?

 

[anbosu]

Something that would accomplish a lot of what you're trying to do but would be significantly easier would be building trap doors into the floor surrounding the tank. You could even just have whole sections of the floor removable if you wanted.

 

[karimwassef]

It's a concrete slab. I don't know how to add trap doors without modifying the slab and it would still require a false floor?

 

[anbosu]

It looks like you are planning on having a false floor over the entire space anyway, is that correct?

I am just suggesting rather than having those parts of the floor raise, you just have the ability to lift out panels surrounding the aquarium. It's not as James Bond cool, but it seems like you would have fewer failure points.