Keeping zoas with sps

OceansMotion

New member
I have a question for you guys.
So I have a 32g biocube and I'm having some trouble with zoas. Well not all zoas but my R. people eaters. My tank is mixed with a bunch of sps, 2 lps ( torch and cactus) ricordea yuma shrooms and some sunny D polyps and I had people eater polyps until now. Literally everything is thriving except for those people eaters. What do you guys think could be the issue? Btw the sunny ds are reproducing nicely.


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Sunny -Ds along with gobstoppers are one of the fastest growing and best zoa's you can get. Large colonies of either are 'stunning' under deep blue light. They are also well behaved, hardy, and in my experience do not engage in biological warfare. They prefer to crowd out other corals with rapid, dense growth. Other palys like Nuclear greens and similiar varities can kill lps and sps in a small tank if they get ticked off.

People eaters in my experience are on my list for more sensitive zoas. They don't cause problems, but are sensitive to others. Maybe coral dip the PE's. If they start going too far south I advise pulling them and not risk an otherwise healthy tank.
 
I experience the same thing with trying to grow zoas. My tank is mostly sps and I have tried two different types of zoas and they do ok for awhile but slowly get smaller and then stop opening up and then they are gone. I had them on the bottom of my tank receiving about 150 to 200 par. Not sure what the green ones were but I had bam bams and they were the first to go.
jeff
 
I think zoas do best at about 65-100 par. To me ppl eater do well in extra low light. All my zoas are sitting atleast 8 in lower than acro except when they are under a shaded area then they can be alittle closer
 
I think zoas do best at about 65-100 par. To me ppl eater do well in extra low light. All my zoas are sitting atleast 8 in lower than acro except when they are under a shaded area then they can be alittle closer
no question that could be the case for what you keep but i find that the majority of them are case specific meaning they all have modestly different preferences for light and flow.
the best thing a person can do is take the time to see exactly where the zoa/paly likes it best rather than where i think it'll look the best... which is what i assume most people also do.
 
So how about iodine and potassium? I recently tested for these and found my iodine never even showed up on test kit and potassium tested at 330 which should be around 400.
Thanks
Jeff
 
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