gary faulkner
New member
Just read your thread, very interesting.
I have a 37 that I am currently using as a QT.
You may convince me to follow suit!
I have a 37 that I am currently using as a QT.
You may convince me to follow suit!
Kelley's 37 gal system. from the start
- Thread starter kelley_mc
- Start date
kelley_mc
Active member
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8733294#post8733294 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by doomicon
My current tank is a 37, I love it. The size the depth. I'm along for the ride
Welcome aboard! I also (obviously) love the 37. I have a FW tank that size in addition to this one I am building.
staticx
In Memoriam
How do you like your return plumbing? I noticed you had alot of 90 degree bends is that causing alot of pressure loss? I would really like to set something up like that on mine. My tank is not drilled and I dont really want to drain it to drill it and I also dont want alot of power heads in my tank so what you did looks great.
kelley_mc
Active member
I really don't like it...
I am going to change it once I get back to that part. I will actually only have the 2 returns along the side of the Calfo box.
In order to get enough flow to replace powerheads, I would need to have WAY too much turnover in my sump. My research shows that I only should have about 3-5 times turnover in the return from the sump. However, actual flow rate turnover should be somewhere around 10 times if I remember correctly. When I redesign my return plumbing, I will use ball valves to control the flow from the sump to the correct flow rate.
As for overall system flow, I am using a modded Maxi-Jet 900. That is about 1500GPH. Plenty of flow for my 37.
I think what you are interested in is a closed loop. Here is a link for more information on one without having to drill. Be sure to see the link at the bottom of the page for images of the completed product.
I am going to change it once I get back to that part. I will actually only have the 2 returns along the side of the Calfo box.
In order to get enough flow to replace powerheads, I would need to have WAY too much turnover in my sump. My research shows that I only should have about 3-5 times turnover in the return from the sump. However, actual flow rate turnover should be somewhere around 10 times if I remember correctly. When I redesign my return plumbing, I will use ball valves to control the flow from the sump to the correct flow rate.
As for overall system flow, I am using a modded Maxi-Jet 900. That is about 1500GPH. Plenty of flow for my 37.
I think what you are interested in is a closed loop. Here is a link for more information on one without having to drill. Be sure to see the link at the bottom of the page for images of the completed product.
kelley_mc
Active member
I began working back on the sump/refugium. Here is an image of the new layout:
I reduced the baffle height to lower the overall height of the water in the sump. This will allow for more drainage in the event of a power outage. I also removed the baffles between the refugium section and pump section. This will allow for more water in the system that can evaporate before a topoff is needed.
I then placed an eggcrate "box" around the pump area to keep the cheato out of that area. If I am happy with the results of the wet test, I will then add a couple inches of acrylic to the lower part of the eggcrate to keep the live sand out of the pump also.
Once the silicone dries, I will wet test it and see how it works.
I reduced the baffle height to lower the overall height of the water in the sump. This will allow for more drainage in the event of a power outage. I also removed the baffles between the refugium section and pump section. This will allow for more water in the system that can evaporate before a topoff is needed.
I then placed an eggcrate "box" around the pump area to keep the cheato out of that area. If I am happy with the results of the wet test, I will then add a couple inches of acrylic to the lower part of the eggcrate to keep the live sand out of the pump also.
Once the silicone dries, I will wet test it and see how it works.
drummereef
Team RC
Wow, it's looking great so far. Nice work!
i had the same problem with noise going into my sump. My overflow is rated for 1200gph however and my return pump is only pumping 600gph so i pluged one of the 2 drains to my sump from the over flow. This greatly reduced the sound as well as the bubbles. I also used food grade rubber tubing from the overflow to the sump. This made for more gradual turns reducing sound even more. 3rd i made the water enter the sump horizontally and as close to the bottem as possible and this has almost eleminated all the sound i have. Also once u get it all closed in in ur cabnet if u havnt already the sound is muffled Alot.
Izzie
Izzie
gary faulkner
New member
kelley_mc
Don't you just love this hobby-obsession?
Always more to learn and experiment with.
Never a dull moment.
I am constantly trying to improve on my system. Glad to see I'm not by myself on this one.
Keep up the good work and thanks for sharing
Don't you just love this hobby-obsession?
Always more to learn and experiment with.
Never a dull moment.
I am constantly trying to improve on my system. Glad to see I'm not by myself on this one.
Keep up the good work and thanks for sharing
kelley_mc
Active member
Thanks for the input, I appreciate it. One thing I am with this fish tank is cautious. I like having two drains that can each handle the system flow so if one blocks, I am not going to have a flood.
Flood + Living Room = Upset Wife
Hmm... that's interesting. I assume rubber is reef safe? Where did you get it? I may look into that as a possibility.
Did you use a bulkhead and drilled sump to do this? Or did you come down the inside of the sump then use a elbow to create the horizontal section at the bottom?
One of the plans I have is to drill the sump right at the water line so that I can come in from the outside horizontally so that the air will stay above the water and bubbles can not form. This will be my last attempt because obviously once I drill, there's no going back.
My cabinet is still under construction. I am really hoping to get the system quiet then use the cabinet to finish it off. The cabinet will take some time. I am making it out of 3/4" oak. That should create a good sound barrier.
kelley_mc
Active member
Things are moving along nicely. Sorry no pics, hopefully I will have some tomorrow.
The stand is progressing very well. The lower section is just about done including trim. Just a few finishing touches and the woodwork on that will be completed. Up next for the stand will be the canopy with attached back section that will be behind the tank. This will hide all the plumbing going down the back into the sump/refugium.
I also did a wet test on the new sump layout. I am much happier with this design as compared to my previous design. I feel much better about it with regard to flooding and the extra area in the return/fuge section will only help eliminate constant top-offs.
Finally, I picked up a couple Green Chromis and put them in my QT. I really like these little guys. I figured I may as well start quarantining some fish so that when my system build is done, I can add the fish to the display without having to wait another 4-6 weeks for the quarantine process to complete.
Now I have a 29 gal tank with my fulling cycled LR, my cleanup crew and a pair of clowns. I also have a 20 gal QT tank with my Chromis and 5 blue legged hermits and about 30 lbs of LR. I am also using a bio-wheel filter on my QT with a SeaClone skimmer. After I finish cycling these guys, I will use the exact setup for my next set of fish. If I have any outbreaks on any kind during the quarantine process, I will just kill the rock and clean everything out to sterilize the other equipment. If no outbreaks, just a water change and in the next fish goes.
The stand is progressing very well. The lower section is just about done including trim. Just a few finishing touches and the woodwork on that will be completed. Up next for the stand will be the canopy with attached back section that will be behind the tank. This will hide all the plumbing going down the back into the sump/refugium.
I also did a wet test on the new sump layout. I am much happier with this design as compared to my previous design. I feel much better about it with regard to flooding and the extra area in the return/fuge section will only help eliminate constant top-offs.
Finally, I picked up a couple Green Chromis and put them in my QT. I really like these little guys. I figured I may as well start quarantining some fish so that when my system build is done, I can add the fish to the display without having to wait another 4-6 weeks for the quarantine process to complete.
Now I have a 29 gal tank with my fulling cycled LR, my cleanup crew and a pair of clowns. I also have a 20 gal QT tank with my Chromis and 5 blue legged hermits and about 30 lbs of LR. I am also using a bio-wheel filter on my QT with a SeaClone skimmer. After I finish cycling these guys, I will use the exact setup for my next set of fish. If I have any outbreaks on any kind during the quarantine process, I will just kill the rock and clean everything out to sterilize the other equipment. If no outbreaks, just a water change and in the next fish goes.
kelley_mc
Active member
Here is an image of the wet test of the sump.
To test the sump, I used a simply pvc return from the pump to the drain section of the sump. I then used a ball valve to slow down the flow to what would more closely be the actual flow through the sump. I also put a air pump with a bubble wand in the drain section to test the bubble traps. The sump worked well and there were no microbubbles going from the drain to the refugium/return section of the sump. The small bubbles on the glass ended up there when I filled the sump with water. Once the stand is completed, I will retest the sump again with the actual system to confirm that I am happy with the results.
To test the sump, I used a simply pvc return from the pump to the drain section of the sump. I then used a ball valve to slow down the flow to what would more closely be the actual flow through the sump. I also put a air pump with a bubble wand in the drain section to test the bubble traps. The sump worked well and there were no microbubbles going from the drain to the refugium/return section of the sump. The small bubbles on the glass ended up there when I filled the sump with water. Once the stand is completed, I will retest the sump again with the actual system to confirm that I am happy with the results.
kelley_mc
Active member
While I was snapping pictures, I took one of my current basement setup.
Starting from the left is my 20 gal QT with about 30 lbs LR, SeaClone skimmer, Aquaclear powerhead and a Pengium Biowheel HOB filter.
Next to that is my 29 gal LR tank with 50 lbs LR, Coralife 125 Super Skimmer, Current Sunpaq 150watt MH, modded MJ 900 for flow. There is also my cleanup crew in there and a pair of clownfish.
Next to that tank is a Rubbermaid used to mix saltwater.
Once my 37 in complete I will break down the 29 completely and move the equipment over. I will leave the 20 gal QT set up.
Starting from the left is my 20 gal QT with about 30 lbs LR, SeaClone skimmer, Aquaclear powerhead and a Pengium Biowheel HOB filter.
Next to that is my 29 gal LR tank with 50 lbs LR, Coralife 125 Super Skimmer, Current Sunpaq 150watt MH, modded MJ 900 for flow. There is also my cleanup crew in there and a pair of clownfish.
Next to that tank is a Rubbermaid used to mix saltwater.
Once my 37 in complete I will break down the 29 completely and move the equipment over. I will leave the 20 gal QT set up.
gary faulkner
New member
Kelly,
You want to put a Y or a T in your return line so that when you close down on the ball valve the excess flow returns to the intake side of the pump. This is better on the pump than just throttleing it down.
You want to put a Y or a T in your return line so that when you close down on the ball valve the excess flow returns to the intake side of the pump. This is better on the pump than just throttleing it down.
gary faulkner
New member
Just trying to help, I saw that you have much more experience than myself but sometimes it's easy to overlook the little things :>)
kelley_mc
Active member
Experience is not measured in years but in the ability to make mistakes and learn from them.
Actually, I am not an expert by any means. I do a lot of research and try to do my best, but I have A LOT to learn. From your profile, you have been doing this a lot longer than me.
Regardless, I always appreciate feedback, good and bad. It's the best way to learn. Thank you again.
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