Kessil Club
- Thread starter Zacktosterone
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dh350twin
New member
janci
New member
SPS growth review:
Has anybody good SPS growth with the Kessils A360?
I can not find a direct link with confirmed good results so maybe here on the forum somebody has?
I have one A360WE and see that SPS do grow, but because there is only one point of light, half of the SPS dies, the other half continues.
So the only way I can grow them, is to have them straight under the fixture... which is not very convenient.
Any experience?
Has anybody good SPS growth with the Kessils A360?
I can not find a direct link with confirmed good results so maybe here on the forum somebody has?
I have one A360WE and see that SPS do grow, but because there is only one point of light, half of the SPS dies, the other half continues.
So the only way I can grow them, is to have them straight under the fixture... which is not very convenient.
Any experience?
These are point source lights with small reflectors, so coverage is going to be problematic. I've ended up with 3 360WE and 3 160WE over my 7' 265 to get good light to all parts of the tank (probably will add a fourth 160WE at some point).
FWIW, very little light spill into the room.
FWIW, very little light spill into the room.
dh350twin
New member
I use 6 360we on 60x30 footprint tank + 2 250w metal hailde light. SPS do grow, but some SPS grow better/color with hailde Light. I use above combo about two years now.
Very nice. Would love to see the lights?
janci
New member
dh350twin
New member
Herbie
Yep,that one
This is making a lot of sense for me now .........
I have always had great growth and color when using Kessils with most ANY coral type except the SPS Acro's . Same problem as everyone else . Colors always faded away on the shaded side of the Kessil lighting point source. Have had great results with all types of Montipora SPS though ..........now it makes sense.
I wonder if Kessil's would work much better if they were mounted on light movers when used for SPS Acro growth ? Like 2 360we , mounted on Light movers , running on opposite movement patterns, so the tank always has the nice lighted look .
Hmmm, something to consider for larger tanks.
My tank now is predominantly an LPS tank with Zoas spread around. But I am having great results with the only SPS corals in the tank ..........monitipora's ! Its all making sense now !
I dont think its actually the Kessil lighting spectrum thats the problem with some SPS , but its the effect of the point source of a Kessil that is the problem. Thats why plating Montipora style SPS do just fine under Kessil lighting, where as Acropora struggles .
BTW ...........LPS have always been incredible under Kessil lighting for me .
I have always had great growth and color when using Kessils with most ANY coral type except the SPS Acro's . Same problem as everyone else . Colors always faded away on the shaded side of the Kessil lighting point source. Have had great results with all types of Montipora SPS though ..........now it makes sense.
I wonder if Kessil's would work much better if they were mounted on light movers when used for SPS Acro growth ? Like 2 360we , mounted on Light movers , running on opposite movement patterns, so the tank always has the nice lighted look .
Hmmm, something to consider for larger tanks.
My tank now is predominantly an LPS tank with Zoas spread around. But I am having great results with the only SPS corals in the tank ..........monitipora's ! Its all making sense now !
I dont think its actually the Kessil lighting spectrum thats the problem with some SPS , but its the effect of the point source of a Kessil that is the problem. Thats why plating Montipora style SPS do just fine under Kessil lighting, where as Acropora struggles .
BTW ...........LPS have always been incredible under Kessil lighting for me .
Here is light setup with additional pic of the coral.
Very nice. Would you mind sharing your lighting schedule? Also what intensity and colors are you running? I have 4 360wes in the center and supplementing with 4 80watts t5 and seem to either burn acros or brown them. Kessils are mounted only 5 inches above water line due to hood. Thx in advance
I'm using a light mover since June 2015.
I have only four Acros. Results are I feel quite good. I bought 5 Acros at that time. One I bleached despite slow acclimation.The other four have encrusted well and three have grown from well to ok. The one that didn't grow well has just now started to encrust properly. I have treated that coral badly by moving it around and not glued it i place. We will see if it likes Kessils later on.
Edit: I must add that I have no previous experience with Acros and I'm not sure I can judge growth and color development.
I have only four Acros. Results are I feel quite good. I bought 5 Acros at that time. One I bleached despite slow acclimation.The other four have encrusted well and three have grown from well to ok. The one that didn't grow well has just now started to encrust properly. I have treated that coral badly by moving it around and not glued it i place. We will see if it likes Kessils later on.
Edit: I must add that I have no previous experience with Acros and I'm not sure I can judge growth and color development.
dh350twin
New member
Here is light setup with additional pic of the coral.
Looks good and I'm pretty sure the halides are the supplements not the Kessils
escape10
New member
So I just set up my tank and it's cycled, ready for me to add corals. I have two 360's, and a controller. I want the lights to come on in the morning, around 10 AM, and stay on until 10 PM, so that if I have people over it still looks nice.
I believe more people fry their corals from their Kessils being too bright than not bright enough. So any recommendations as to what percentage I should start at, peak at, then diminish to before shut off, if I leave them on 12 hours? Most of my corals will be soft corals, but I would like to have a few hard corals at the top of the tank as well. Any advise appreciated.
I believe more people fry their corals from their Kessils being too bright than not bright enough. So any recommendations as to what percentage I should start at, peak at, then diminish to before shut off, if I leave them on 12 hours? Most of my corals will be soft corals, but I would like to have a few hard corals at the top of the tank as well. Any advise appreciated.
escape10
New member
So I am trying to set mine up similarly, over a 12 hour period, from 10AM to 10 PM. After reading your post, if I understand you right and tried something similar for 12 hours, it would look like this?
10AM-noon 10% color 10% intensity
Noon-6 color 15% intensity 75%
6-8 PM color 30% intensity 75%
8-10 color 10% intensity 10%
Thoughts? My tank is brand new, just cycled, and I will be starting with soft corals next week. Over time I want probably just 2 hard corals at the very top. But mostly I will have fish and soft corals.
Herbie
Yep,that one
Way too much intensity too soon .
You will have diatoms and algae growth soon because its so new. Dont encourage it with that high of intensity. Dont mistake how bright the light looks to your eyes , to how bright it actually is intensity wise to the tank . Those Kessil 360's are really intense .
I would start at 30-40 % intensity max . Then ramp it up very slowly if needed. Watch how the corals respond to the lighting .........you may never have to go over 50% .
herbie
reef4life07
New member
Wow!!!
Wow!!!
Wow!!!
I've got a single kessil A360WE over my shallow 2foot nano. Corals are SPS mainly with a few softies. Tank runs with no sump or skimmer, just a reactor running activated carbon, and occasionally rowaphos, and regular water changes. Tank has been running for about 3-4 months. Coral colors are ok but improving as I'm finally beginning to register a little nitrate. I think my nutrients were too low to start with as my sps lost colour at first but are now improving and growing. Love the kessil to pieces
reef4life07
New member
Looks great.....
Brieninsac
Member
Way to strong. A few weeks ago I added 8 new frags and used the acclimation mode on the Spectral Controller up to 60%. After the acclimation it stayed at 60% for a week and I noticed some frags languishing so I lowered it to 50% and they're all doing much better.
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