Korallin Calcium Reactor

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8235353#post8235353 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by MJSavage
I set up my 3002 and the b/m & dpm stayed the same for 3 days then the b/m dropped from 13 to 7 then 5. No matter how much I change the needle valve the b/m stay the same now. Any ideas?

I'm using a Reef Fanatic Deluxe CO2 Regulator from ReefGeek.com

Remaining Pressure Guage 1100psi, Working Pressure 40psi (2.75 kg/cm3) which is where the manufacurer says it should be (working pressure of 2-3 kg/cm3)

Thanks,
Mike
Click to expand...
There are several posibilities. Temperature changes could change the setting of the valve. This is typical were the regulator is next or enclosed together with ballasts that heat up during the day and cool at night.
Another posibility is that some salt water backflowed to the regulator and deposited some salt in the needle seat.
Also it could be that your CO2 check valve gets stuck (same salt issue) so it is opening and closing intermitently or require different pressure to open.
Finally the discharge pressure can be high so the needle adjustment is too sensitive enhancing the effects of all the previous posibilities.

Try adjusting the delivery pressure down to 25 psi and readjust, see if that can help by reducing the valve sensitivity.
Also try washing the check valve with fresh water or submerge it in vinegar see also if that helps.
 
I'm joining the fun, with a question

I'm joining the fun, with a question

Hi,
I just wanted to chime in and say I have read the full thread, and I'm sure only half of it sunk in. Anyway, I just set my Korallin up about 24 hours ago. My Effluent PH is 6.5, but my DKH is only 17. I am using a Seachem Alk test kit, it measures in Meq/l so my reading is 6meq/l. Then I do the math which gives me 17DKH. Iknow I'm shooting for a reading of 25-30DKH.

My question:

Do I adjust the reactor to get the ALK where I want it, or does it need to run and disolve more media before I test? Again It's only been running for about 24 hours.

Thanks
 
Re: I'm joining the fun, with a question

Re: I'm joining the fun, with a question

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8238813#post8238813 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Mish
Hi,

My question:

Do I adjust the reactor to get the ALK where I want it, or does it need to run and disolve more media before I test? Again It's only been running for about 24 hours.

Thanks
Click to expand...

Hi Mish:

A couple of notes. First do not use the reactor to get the Alkalinity were you want it. If you use it to rise your alkalinity, you will have a hard time adjusting it. Instead, adjust the reactor to maintain constant alkalinity, once alkalinity is constant you can adjust it with baking soda to were you want it and the reactor will keep it there.

Low alkalinity of the effluent is a problem only if the reactor is not coping with your consumption so if your consumption is relatively low you can adjust the reactor anyhow even you might not have full effluent saturation.

As general feedback low effluent alkalinity (saturation) is usually caused by high effluent flow, false testing results of the effluent or too high effluent PH. In your case as you have a PH of 6.5 I would just check that the probe is properly calibrated to insure you really have 6.5 and if so reducing the effluent flow shall increase saturation because the water contact time with the media will be longer. If after that you still have low saturation of the effluent I will look at the kit and the testing results.

In any case as I mentioned if you can maintain constant tank alkalinity the effluent alkalinity level is irrelevant.

Enjoy!
Jose
 
Thank you,
I am not using. The reactor to make adjustments, I just didn't understand how people were getting effluent reading of 25DKH. I bought the reactor used, so I wanted to make sure it's working correctly. I will double check my PH probe, and I will check my alk test as well.

As far as addjusting the effluent drip, if I slow the drip down won't this cause the PH to rise? If this happens I will be outside of the range to dissolve the media? PH 6.5 - 6.7
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8239490#post8239490 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Mish

As far as addjusting the effluent drip, if I slow the drip down won't this cause the PH to rise?
Click to expand...
It is the opposite, if you slow the effluent drip rate without also slowing the CO2 your PH will drop, not rise.
 
Right you are! Sorry about that.

I still don't understand why I can't get my effluent to read 25DKH. I've checked PH probe calibration. I even bought a new ALK test (salifert) I was using Seachem.

If effluent PH is 6.5, shouldn't the effluent ALK be higher than 8DKH? What am I missing here?
I know you said that I don't have to be at saturation for the reactor to work, but it will make a difference in the long run, right?
 
Nevermind. On the very first page of this post someone suggests waiting 24-36hrs before testing the ALK of the effluent. I forgot the first rule of reef keeping. BE PATIENT.

Thanks anyway.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8246879#post8246879 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Mish
Nevermind. On the very first page of this post someone suggests waiting 24-36hrs before testing the ALK of the effluent. I forgot the first rule of reef keeping. BE PATIENT.

Thanks anyway.
Click to expand...

OK Let me know how it goes.
 
What is the best way to feed water to the 3002 Reactor?

Microjet
Maxijet
aqualifter

Do you convert fittings to 1/4 RO tubing?
 
Baically whatever works best for you depending on the circumstances.
If you do not have a strong suction from the recirc. pump and you do not need to lift the water too much, an Aqua lifter or a maji jet will do well.
If you have a goog head from were to teke some syphon, like say the reactor in the sump and you syphon from the main tank on top, syphon will work very well.
A T off the return will also work very well if you have a mag drive or Eheim sixe pump. Do not use the return if your sump is in the basement and you are using a large pump, the pressure can be so high as to generate leaks in the reactor or even blow it's top.

If you are going to use a powerhead, remember to divert some flow back into the sump as the flow from the reactor is not high enough to keep the powerhead cool.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8263162#post8263162 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by bond007069
as far as fittings for the MJ are most people using 1/2" tube down to JG 1/4" tube?
Click to expand...
I really do not know how others connect it, what I did was to take the round coupling that comes with the powerhead (The one that has a hole for the air and holds the fan like piece) I tapped threads into it for a 1/8" MNPT to 1/4" JG tubing connector and threaded the adapter directly to it so I run 1/4 tubing directly to the reactor. The hole that serves as air intake for the powerhead now forks as a divertion to keep the pump cool as excess water leaves trough it.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8262406#post8262406 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jdieck
Baically whatever works best for you depending on the circumstances.
If you do not have a strong suction from the recirc. pump and you do not need to lift the water too much, an Aqua lifter or a maji jet will do well.
If you have a goog head from were to teke some syphon, like say the reactor in the sump and you syphon from the main tank on top, syphon will work very well.
If you are going to use a powerhead, remember to divert some flow back into the sump as the flow from the reactor is not high enough to keep the powerhead cool.
Click to expand...

Going to have to play with the idea of siphoning from the main tank and not draining the tank empty at a powerout. My sump is elevated from the floor by a good 5" (not including water height) which helps my siphon situation. Running it on my return pump would probably be a bad idea (PanWorld 50PX - talk about pressure!)
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8263285#post8263285 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by theatrus
Going to have to play with the idea of siphoning from the main tank and not draining the tank empty at a powerout. My sump is elevated from the floor by a good 5" (not including water height) which helps my siphon situation. Running it on my return pump would probably be a bad idea (PanWorld 50PX - talk about pressure!)
Click to expand...

Yes, good note. If you are going to syphon from the main and there is power outage you may end up lowering your tank level or overflowing your sump. You can prevent this by leaving the syphon line just one inch below the water level.
You can also test directly from the sump, in many cases no feed pump is required if the recirculation pump has good suction and the sump is at level with the reactor.
In my case I had to use a powerhead because my reactor is on a shelve on top of my sump so I needed to pump the water up a couple of feet.

Something I did not mentioned on using the T off the return from high powered pump is that many solve the issue by moving the effluent control valve to the reactor input. Although this solves the pressure issue during reactor normal operation, I still discourage this because if the effluent line gets plugged for some reason the overpressure still occur.
 
Does anyone have a copy of the latest original manual for a C3001 for download or that can be e-mailed to me? I've already downloaded dragon_slayer's setup instructions but would like a copy of the original just the same, even though it's known to be not very helpful. In the setup manual thread, reference is made to the original manual with pictures in the downloadable link but the downloaded word file only contains dragon_slayer's instructions w/o a copy of the manual nor diagrams.

I would basically like to know if Rowalith C+ may be used in a C3001 and how much to fill the reactor with the media. Also, how does one know when the media needs to be replaced?

Also, where can one get a replacement for the blue screw cap for the brass check valve's inlet fitting (to tighten grip on CO2 line) as the 2nd hand unit I picked up has one cap missing. I probably can still use it but the CO2 line could easily be knocked off without tightening with the cap. What's the proper name for this fitting?

Thanks

CW
 
Sorry no copy of the instructions.

You can use Rowa as any other media in the reactor as it is basically same as ARM, pure aragonite, it fills up to the normal height of any other media.

I am afraid you will not be able to find the tightening nut for the check valve as it is an integral part of the valve. You may need to replace the whole valve. Try the Dnnerle, it is one of the best I have found:
http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merc...PROD&Product_Code=M3-DCV&Category_Code=cparts
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Dr. Reef
Affordable Aquaria by Dr. Reefs Black Friday Sale
Replies
0
Views
192
Dr. Reef
Dr. Reef
Dr. Reef
XMAS Sale @ Dr. Reef's
Replies
0
Views
238
Dr. Reef
Dr. Reef
Dr. Reef
Dr. Reef's XMAS Sale
Replies
0
Views
458
Dr. Reef
Dr. Reef
S
Help with Overflow Design Issue
Replies
0
Views
157
SFMAquariums
S
Dr. Reef
Valentines Sale @ Dr. Reef's
Replies
0
Views
177
Dr. Reef
Dr. Reef
Back
Top